shoreline switch

[FrigateCaptain]

Where could I find a switch to flick between land line and inverter?

What's it called?

[Ray T]

This is what we have on CF. It is the switch below the galvanic isolator, do not know if it has a name or not. Not much help really? Made by Moeller.<BR><BR>

Edited May 15, 2012 by Ray T

[Ark Right]

I would recommend you use one of these Switch

Its the correct bit you are looking for and is well made by an established company.

I have no connection with this company , other than electrical ones when I use their kit

 

A

[nicknorman]

Or you could have a Masterswitch (from Mastervolt) to do it automatically, at greater cost of course.

[by'eck]

Many of the pre-fabricated AC switch panels use Kraus & Naimer modular switches. Their construction allows for a huge off the peg range & the possibility of custom builds. I had them build me a four pole, three way, break before make switch to select shore power, generator or inverter on my last boat. This was wired to limit available sockets when on inverter.

 

Click on image for info & link to their downloadable catalogue.

 

[alan_fincher]

I'm almost too embarrassed to say that we have a basic 13 amp socket where the shore-line enters the boat, adjacent to a 13 amp socket on the (again basic!) inverter.

 

The boat itself is fed through a standard consumer unit, with all the usual trips, but this is simply fed by a trailing lead with a standard 13 amp plug on it. That plug is then either plugged into the shore-line feed, or the inverter.

 

May not be sophisticated, but quite foolproof, and, only costing a couple of quid, somewhat cheaper than some of the options here!

 

(Yes, I know it limits me to 13 amps, but that's certainly not a problem in our case).

[ditchcrawler]

I'm almost too embarrassed to say that we have a basic 13 amp socket where the shore-line enters the boat, adjacent to a 13 amp socket on the (again basic!) inverter.

 

The boat itself is fed through a standard consumer unit, with all the usual trips, but this is simply fed by a trailing lead with a standard 13 amp plug on it. That plug is then either plugged into the shore-line feed, or the inverter.

 

May not be sophisticated, but quite foolproof, and, only costing a couple of quid, somewhat cheaper than some of the options here!

 

(Yes, I know it limits me to 13 amps, but that's certainly not a problem in our case).

Same here, no chance of getting two feeds or a live shore plug.

[FrigateCaptain]

I'm almost too embarrassed to say that we have a basic 13 amp socket where the shore-line enters the boat, adjacent to a 13 amp socket on the (again basic!) inverter.

 

The boat itself is fed through a standard consumer unit, with all the usual trips, but this is simply fed by a trailing lead with a standard 13 amp plug on it. That plug is then either plugged into the shore-line feed, or the inverter.

 

May not be sophisticated, but quite foolproof, and, only costing a couple of quid, somewhat cheaper than some of the options here!

 

(Yes, I know it limits me to 13 amps, but that's certainly not a problem in our case).

 

Exactly the same set up as me, but I'm trying to tidy it all up as I'm fed up with having a cable running out the the shore line.

 

I'll agree that its massively fool proof though!

[Chris Pink]

I would recommend you use one of these Switch

Its the correct bit you are looking for and is well made by an established company.

I have no connection with this company , other than electrical ones when I use their kit

 

A

 

£67 for a switch???? On a panel that looks like it's from Practical Electronics circa 1979?

 

Plug and sockets for me too. Foolproof. Cheap.

 

Exactly the same set up as me, but I'm trying to tidy it all up as I'm fed up with having a cable running out the the shore line.

 

I'll agree that its massively fool proof though!

 

What Alan is talking about is two sockets one plug. Different from a trailing cable. And more versatile if you want to plug something else in.

[Jamesb4uk]

I would recommend you use one of these Switch

Its the correct bit you are looking for and is well made by an established company.

I have no connection with this company , other than electrical ones when I use their kit

 

A

 

Im ordering one of their custom AC/DC panels today actually...

 

James

[smileypete]

Where could I find a switch to flick between land line and inverter?

What's it called?

'Cam switch' is what some of them are called, from the likes of RS components or an electrical distributor.

 

Gibbo has some nifty AC switching diagrams on his Smartgauge site.

 

cheers,

Pete. smpt

[Chalky]

I have a contactor to do the same job. The NC contacts connect the inverter to the boat supply and the NO contacts connect the shore line. The contactor coil is connected across the shore line input so when its connected the contactor automatically changes between supplied. I added a couple of neon indicators to show the status. The whole lot is DIN rail mounted and sits in the 240V fuse box with the RCDs & MCBs. All in it cost about £10.

[by'eck]

This is an old (ELCB now known as RCD) AC wiring diagram from my last boat. Its shows how the three AC power sources can be selected with double pole break before make switching using the 4 pole 3 way switch (bottom left) I mentioned in post #5.

 

 

Note that when inverter is selected only certain sockets are active. This setup up worked well for many years.

[jonathanA]

£67 for a switch???? On a panel that looks like it's from Practical Electronics circa 1979?

 

Plug and sockets for me too. Foolproof. Cheap.

 

 

 

What Alan is talking about is two sockets one plug. Different from a trailing cable. And more versatile if you want to plug something else in.

 

In fairness if its like the other GS controls units its probably nicely encased so fingers and live parts can't come into contact. A decent 'cam switch' will probably be £20-30 depending on contacts and supplier.

 

So if your not confident on what your doing and want something idiot proof then GS controls are a good option. I've got one of their combined switch and AC distribution panels and its fine.

 

I've no connection with them but have spoken to them and they are very helpful making me a custom Dc panel for a price that I thought was very reasonable.

 

Having tried to unsuccessfully invent a perpertual motion machine by accidentally leaving my battery charger running when on inverter power I'd recommend a 3 or 4 pole switch so that certain items like chargers and immersion heater are only live when on shore (or generator) power and not when running from the batteries via an inverter...

[WJM]

I'm confused - why would you need a switch?

 

When my shoreline is plugged in, that is what supplies the 240v. When it is unplugged the inverter takes over - automatically!

[Theo]

I'm almost too embarrassed to say that we have a basic 13 amp socket where the shore-line enters the boat, adjacent to a 13 amp socket on the (again basic!) inverter.

 

The boat itself is fed through a standard consumer unit, with all the usual trips, but this is simply fed by a trailing lead with a standard 13 amp plug on it. That plug is then either plugged into the shore-line feed, or the inverter.

 

May not be sophisticated, but quite foolproof, and, only costing a couple of quid, somewhat cheaper than some of the options here!

 

(Yes, I know it limits me to 13 amps, but that's certainly not a problem in our case).

 

A very sensible arrangement too. It completely eliminates the possibility of destroying your inverter by accidentally connecting to the mains at the same time.

 

Nick

 

I'm confused - why would you need a switch?

 

When my shoreline is plugged in, that is what supplies the 240v. When it is unplugged the inverter takes over - automatically!

 

That's because you have a fancy automatic selector.

 

N

Edited May 17, 2012 by Theo

[jonathanA]

A very sensible arrangement too. It completely eliminates the possibility of destroying your inverter by accidentally connecting to the mains at the same time.

 

Nick

 

 

so does a changeover switch and is easier to use. Arguably a switch may be safer too becuase 1) no plug/cables dangling free to get damaged and 2) no questionable earthing arrangements

 

you pays your money and takes your choice

Edited May 21, 2012 by jonathanA