Sterling unit

[ditchcrawler]

Sorry yes I maybe able to plug into shortline as I'm moored next to a garage...

If you have a charger and shore supply I suggest you get charging now, at 11 volts those batteries are on borrowed time. Get them charged up.

[dmr]

It would not be difficult to achieve a float voltage situation once the Sterling has completed it's Job

 

An adjustable Voltage sensitive control could be used to switch the Alternator Field current ON/OFF frequently

 

Got me thinking........ will have to try it !

 

CT

 

The easy way is just to disable the internal regulator and let the Adverc/Sterling do its job. A little grinding stone in a Dremel might be the way to do this, and then a blob of solder could bring it back if the external regulator should ever fail though the Advercs never fail, not sure about the Sterling.

I don't see how the PWM module could help to control the field, though pwm is part of what the internal regulator does.

Once the alternator is running turning off the ignition lamp circuit will not help because the field current will be coming from the diode tri.

 

and in most cases the Sterling will go into float too soon anyway, and its very hard to overcharge batteries from an alternator, you need a landline to do that.

 

 

...................Dave

Edited January 31, 2017 by dmr

[Señor Chris]

 

in most cases the Sterling will go into float too soon anyway,

 

 

I think it makes an estimate based on the startup voltage and time taken to complete the bulk stage. Would it be possible to do this calculation manually so you can work out in advance how long you need to run the engine for after bulk charging?

[cereal tiller]

 

The easy way is just to disable the internal regulator and let the Adverc/Sterling do its job. A little grinding stone in a Dremel might be the way to do this, and then a blob of solder could bring it back if the external regulator should ever fail though the Advercs never fail, not sure about the Sterling.

I don't see how the PWM module could help to control the field, though pwm is part of what the internal regulator does.

Once the alternator is running turning off the ignition lamp circuit will not help because the field current will be coming from the diode tri.

 

and in most cases the Sterling will go into float too soon anyway, and its very hard to overcharge batteries from an alternator, you need a landline to do that.

 

 

...................Dave

Have modified my DC Generator so that it cannot be overheated,it is a 127 75 AMP unit and has to work rather hard in the early stages of charging(6x 100AH bank)

 

Once 75 degrees C is reached a temperature controller shuts of the field until the Temp. is reduced to 73 C

 

The warning lamp /excitation is manually switched as the little 300 cc engine that drives the Alt. wont fire up with the Alt. excited

 

If the warning lamp is not switched on the Alt. just idles

 

The Sterling ramps up slowly,takes about a minute so that is the way I run it,automated

 

If the Sterling is switched off the W.Lamp excitation will work until the optimum Temp is is exceeded but will not re-excite upon cooling if the W.Lamp is not supplied with 12 volts

 

Hope that is clear

 

CT

[dmr]

Have modified my DC Generator so that it cannot be overheated,it is a 127 75 AMP unit and has to work rather hard in the early stages of charging(6x 100AH bank)

 

Once 75 degrees C is reached a temperature controller shuts of the field until the Temp. is reduced to 73 C

 

The warning lamp /excitation is manually switched as the little 300 cc engine that drives the Alt. wont fire up with the Alt. excited

 

If the warning lamp is not switched on the Alt. just idles

 

The Sterling ramps up slowly,takes about a minute so that is the way I run it,automated

 

If the Sterling is switched off the W.Lamp excitation will work until the optimum Temp is is exceeded but will not re-excite upon cooling if the W.Lamp is not supplied with 12 volts

 

Hope that is clear

 

CT

 

 

No I am just confused now. Is your DC generator a DC type machine (like an old dynamo thingy) or a standard rectified alternator?.

I have never actually tried turning off the ignition feed to see if the alternator really shuts down, have just looked at the circuit of a typical alternator and made assumptions. I will think a bit more and maybe do a little test but I think I must be right and so assume your generator is not a bog standard alternator.

But, I am aware that the Sterling unit (and others) do have a thermal shutdown with a temp sensor on the alternator so I struggle to see how these work if they can't shut down the alternator.

 

................Dave

Edited January 31, 2017 by dmr

[WotEver]

The Black Wire that leaves the Alternator should be connected to the WHITE wire from the controller

 

CT

It appears that it does.

[cereal tiller]

 

 

No I am just confused now. Is your DC generator a DC type machine (like an old dynamo thingy) or a standard rectified alternator?.

I have never actually tried turning off the ignition feed to see if the alternator really shuts down, have just looked at the circuit of a typical alternator and made assumptions. I will think a bit more and maybe do a little test but I think I must be right and so assume your generator is not a bog standard alternator.

But, I am aware that the Sterling unit (and others) do have a thermal shutdown with a temp sensor on the alternator so I struggle to see how these work if they can't shut down the alternator.

 

................Dave

This Machine is a Lucas type A127 which is belt Driven by a water cooled Farymann Diesel

 

the Field shutdown is controlled with an ordinary Temp. controller,the kind that is used for Aquariums and general Heating/ cooling purposes

Temperature Probe is fixed with a Large jubilee clip to the Alternators body where the laminations are,so stator Temp. is measured

 

The field current is cut when the wire from standard Reg to stator is isolated by the Temp controller

 

If the 12 volts to warning lamp is not provided it will not re-energise the Stator

 

Was confirming your statement that the Stirling PDAR will do the job alone

 

CT

It appears that it does.

Was responding to TB's post suggesting that the black wire should be connected

 

CT

[WotEver]

Yes I know, and I was confirming that it appears that it is

 

I'm confuzzled now

[cereal tiller]

Yes I know, and I was confirming that it appears that it is

 

I'm confuzzled now

Pay attention to me and you will get confoosed

 

CT

[Tony Brooks]

It appears that it does.

 

Well, I can't see the white wire on the OP's photo of the engine but I can see the silver part of the crimp on female bullet connector on the alternator fly lead. It kind of jumps out at me. Is there another photo that I do not have?

[Markymark]

 

Well, I can't see the white wire on the OP's photo of the engine but I can see the silver part of the crimp on female bullet connector on the alternator fly lead. It kind of jumps out at me. Is there another photo that I do not have?

Sorry that was an old pic, it's now connected....

[Markymark]

Ok so update is I changed the belt and cleaned the wheels fired up and now all working fine, slowly getting charge back into the leisure battery's running all day tomorrow with battery charger connected to shoreline, thanks all for your advice, and sorry if I didn't ask the correct questions or gave the right answers..... thanks for your patience

[cereal tiller]

Ok so update is I changed the belt and cleaned the wheels fired up and now all working fine, slowly getting charge back into the leisure battery's running all day tomorrow with battery charger connected to shoreline, thanks all for your advice, and sorry if I didn't ask the correct questions or gave the right answers..... thanks for your patience

Good Result,it all came right in the end,that's the main thing

 

CT

Edited February 1, 2017 by cereal tiller

[MtB]

Ok so update is I changed the belt and cleaned the wheels fired up and now all working fine, slowly getting charge back into the leisure battery's running all day tomorrow with battery charger connected to shoreline, thanks all for your advice, and sorry if I didn't ask the correct questions or gave the right answers..... thanks for your patience

 

 

Yes thank you for reporting back to say all fixed. Not everyone takes the trouble.

[Guest]

Ok so update is I changed the belt and cleaned the wheels fired up and now all working fine, slowly getting charge back into the leisure battery's running all day tomorrow with battery charger connected to shoreline, thanks all for your advice, and sorry if I didn't ask the correct questions or gave the right answers..... thanks for your patience

Best to Keep an eye on the belt tension for a week or two as it settles.

[Markymark]

Best to Keep an eye on the belt tension for a week or two as it settles.

Yes I'll be checking it after ever run thanks for all your help...

[Dave Payne]

Remember lord of the rings, my precious...

 

That's the same with batteries!

[Tony Brooks]

Ok so update is I changed the belt and cleaned the wheels fired up and now all working fine, slowly getting charge back into the leisure battery's running all day tomorrow with battery charger connected to shoreline, thanks all for your advice, and sorry if I didn't ask the correct questions or gave the right answers..... thanks for your patience

 

Well done, another little additional experience ready for next time.

 

Not so much not answering the correct question but not giving all the info required BUT how can you when initially you may not have any idea what was required. At least you volunteered the bit about wax on the belt and that seems to have been the key to it. Imagine how long it may have gone on if you had not mentioned that.

[Guest]

 

Well done, another little additional experience ready for next time.

 

Not so much not answering the correct question but not giving all the info required BUT how can you when initially you may not have any idea what was required. At least you volunteered the bit about wax on the belt and that seems to have been the key to it. Imagine how long it may have gone on if you had not mentioned that.

That is exactly right, and I think it is important to be patient with folk when they are new to the job. If the person asking a question has a rough idea what info to give, I suspect there is a chance that they may have a rough idea what the problem is.

On the issue of waxing the belt, I was amazed when a mechanic at a main Nissan dealer sprayed duck oil on the fan belts of my van during a service. I know belt dressing is used sometimes, but can't see what Duck Oil would achieve? Wouldn't it make them slip even more?

Edited February 2, 2017 by Guest

[MtB]

Duck oil? Never heard of it! Is it anything like goose fat?

[Guest]

Duck oil? Never heard of it! Is it anything like goose fat?

I should add I used the term generically, like I would "hoover" the carpet, or switch on the "expelair" to vent the kitchen

I don't even know if it still exists, but seem to recall it was the "WD40 of the day."

Edit it does still exist https://www.cleaningsupplies4u.com/product/swarfega-duck-oil-5-litres/?gclid=CKWP9o208dECFUQo0wodrPQMxg

 

I also notice that it is a "light degreaser" so perhaps would have some benefit on fan belts after all (if covered in engine oil for example?)

Edited February 2, 2017 by Guest

[matty40s]

It could also be your isolator switch which is a common fault but one that is often overlooked when dealing with engine charging issues and is a cheap fix.

When the engine is running, push the isolator key further than it usually goes when on, and see if you can move the cables leading in and out of it.

Your domestic batteries are so low, the Stirling unit may not want to charge them (often have a minimum level - 11.5 or 12v)

 

With batteries at that low a voltage, you need a good cruise, not 2 hours at tick over to get them back up.......if they will come back up.

[Guest]

It could also be your isolator switch which is a common fault but one that is often overlooked when dealing with engine charging issues and is a cheap fix.

When the engine is running, push the isolator key further than it usually goes when on, and see if you can move the cables leading in and out of it.

Your domestic batteries are so low, the Stirling unit may not want to charge them (often have a minimum level - 11.5 or 12v)

 

With batteries at that low a voltage, you need a good cruise, not 2 hours at tick over to get them back up.......if they will come back up.

Good point. I have seen a few fail.

[cereal tiller]

That is exactly right, and I think it is important to be patient with folk when they are new to the job. If the person asking a question has a rough idea what info to give, I suspect there is a chance that they may have a rough idea what the problem is.

On the issue of waxing the belt, I was amazed when a mechanic at a main Nissan dealer sprayed duck oil on the fan belts of my van during a service. I know belt dressing is used sometimes, but can't see what Duck Oil would achieve? Wouldn't it make them slip even more?

WD 40 will help with Belt slip ,it temporarily softens the Rubber which then sheds any Glazing or Wax!

 

The Belt slip will worsen briefly before normal service resumes

 

CT

[Guest]

WD 40 will help with Belt slip ,it temporarily softens the Rubber which then sheds any Glazing or Wax!

 

The Belt slip will worsen briefly before normal service resumes

 

CT

Interesting, cheers. We live and learn. As the old saying goes, if WD40 or Duct Tape can't fix it then we are doomed