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Choosing The Right Anchor


Alan de Enfield

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To be fair, I read it up on the internet, and I will be honest, it might have got thrown overboard like a broad's mud weight, had I not read up on it.

This what is in my mind at the moment...

1) Lower it rather than throw the anchor.

2) Be aware of the river flow, let out the chain/line at a similar speed to the flow rate so no chain or line fouls the anchor,

3a) When deployed, gently reverse back till it grabs.

3b) But if your engine has failed, probably need some slack in the line so the boat snatches it.

 

 

 

You have pretty much 'nailed it'.

In a 'river' deployment it is more than likely that it will be an emergency deployment due to engine failure so scenario 3b is most likely.

 

You would be surprised by the number of people who suggest that its better / easier / more convenient to anchor 'off the stern'.

Unfortunately it tends to be people whom have never anchored a boat in their life.

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Probably just about the acceptable minimum size for a 2 tonne boat...

Our boat when it left the factory with the engine, weighed in at less than a tonne, bear in mind we are narrow

beam too.

 

I found several sites and tried to assertain if 7kg was suitable, bearing in mind most sites considered sea anchorages with high tidal ranges, it looked that we were oversized. some said 4 kg with chain, would be suitable.

Some sites claim 7kg is ok for boats up to 30' and several tonnes or even more. There is so much conflicting information.

 

So as I have the danforth type anchor, in fact the anchor was first bought in 1973 so is less likely to be a clone or rip off.

 

I take the point of extra chain, but 6 metres was suggested as the recommended chain length, my father used it at sea with 2 m of chain and was ok with his 18' Sunstar, ok a smaller boat, slightly wider than our boat, but nearly the same weight. He used it to anchor around the Coast of Anglesey, and I was with him when he used it in the Menai straits after we went through the swellies... He also used it to anchor when he went to the Isle of Man. So a well proven anchor with some family history lol.

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Interestingly Lewmar suggest far smaller anchors for a given boat size/weight with their Delta anchors then the Ultra Anchor seem to recommend.

 

Capture_4.jpg

 

For our 25ft boat Delta suggest a 6kg anchor whereas the Ultra Anchor recommends closer to 10kg.

 

As it happens we are fitted with a 10kg Delta.

.

 

What I have found during some years of anchor research, is that the manufacturers use four 'unofficial categories' for determining anchor weight / choice.

Unless they tell you which they base their calculations on I have found it better to go one-size-up on recommendations.

 

The 4 categories are commonly know as

1) Lunch Hook

2) Working anchor

3) Storm anchor

4) Severe Storm anchor.

 

The categories are purely based on 'wind strength' and bottom type.

Bottom type is always considered to be 'poor'

 

A Lunch Hook is designed to stop a boat drifting off in winds of up to 15 knots,

A Working anchor is for winds of up to 30 knots.

(All as described in the American Boat & Yacht Council "Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft")

 

With Mantus anchors, my Catamaran at 12 tons should be a 25kg, but I have decided to buy a 30kg with 10mm chain because of the windage of the two-hulls.

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Our boat when it left the factory with the engine, weighed in at less than a tonne, bear in mind we are narrow

beam too.

 

I found several sites and tried to assertain if 7kg was suitable, bearing in mind most sites considered sea anchorages with high tidal ranges, it looked that we were oversized. some said 4 kg with chain, would be suitable.

Some sites claim 7kg is ok for boats up to 30' and several tonnes or even more. There is so much conflicting information.

 

So as I have the danforth type anchor, in fact the anchor was first bought in 1973 so is less likely to be a clone or rip off.

 

I take the point of extra chain, but 6 metres was suggested as the recommended chain length, my father used it at sea with 2 m of chain and was ok with his 18' Sunstar, ok a smaller boat, slightly wider than our boat, but nearly the same weight. He used it to anchor around the Coast of Anglesey, and I was with him when he used it in the Menai straits after we went through the swellies... He also used it to anchor when he went to the Isle of Man. So a well proven anchor with some family history lol.

 

As you correctly point out there is so much 'varying' information on the internet.

 

Your boat (ex-works) may well have weighed 1 tonne, but fill the fuel tanks, water tank, a couple of extra batteries, a couple of gas bottles, 3 or 4 people, food, clothing, bedding, TV, computer, various 'toys', engine spares, tool box, a bit of fishing tackle and so on and so on and I bet you are approaching 2 tonnes.

 

We had a motor yacht moored in Holyhead for some years - a great cruising - under 3 hours to IoM, and the same to Ireland. We could nip-over to Dublin or Douglas for the weekend as diesel was under 30p per litre (that's a few years ago)

Heck of a tide race around the swellies and down the Menai

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...Go out and practice. No point knowing the theory if you can't put it into action.

I totally agree practice, practice, practice, however I am no longer in a postion to even retreive even a 28lb weight, as we used on the Broads, due to a replacement shoulder nearly two years ago, but also to recently diagnosed secondary tumours on my spine.

 

Had we stayed on the broads, I had already knocked up a portable 12 volt winch to lower and retreive the mud weight, but health failed before I tested it, but as it stands it could not handle heavier anchor line and chain directly, unless I use the winch on a trip line on the anchor, now that would work... I could practice with that easy enough lol.

Incidentally, I have a trip line on a snap type shackle ready to connect with a small fender attached and 30' of line, should handle most Thames river depths.

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As you correctly point out there is so much 'varying' information on the internet.

 

Your boat (ex-works) may well have weighed 1 tonne, but fill the fuel tanks, water tank, a couple of extra batteries, a couple of gas bottles, 3 or 4 people, food, clothing, bedding, TV, computer, various 'toys', engine spares, tool box, a bit of fishing tackle and so on and so on and I bet you are approaching 2 tonnes.

 

We had a motor yacht moored in Holyhead for some years - a great cruising - under 3 hours to IoM, and the same to Ireland. We could nip-over to Dublin or Douglas for the weekend as diesel was under 30p per litre (that's a few years ago)

Heck of a tide race around the swellies and down the Menai

When we bought the trailer, that was designed to take 2 tonne, but "we" are not on board then lol. yes, this year we had the antifoul painted an extra 2" up the hull than before lol... Yes, like people, boats put on weight as they approach middle age too. lol

We have an additional water tank, inverter, batteries three times capacity as what was supplied, mud weights, anchors, we even have a 4 kg kedge, shore power, battery chargers, even bigger fenders all add up, wine, beer, ahh yep probably over 2 tonnes lol

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When we bought the trailer, that was designed to take 2 tonne, but "we" are not on board then lol. yes, this year we had the antifoul painted an extra 2" up the hull than before lol... Yes, like people, boats put on weight as they approach middle age too. lol

We have an additional water tank, inverter, batteries three times capacity as what was supplied, mud weights, anchors, we even have a 4 kg kedge, shore power, battery chargers, even bigger fenders all add up, wine, beer, ahh yep probably over 2 tonnes lol

We have got to strip our boat down to the bare bones this summer as we are having her trailed to Scotland and she is approaching the legal weight limit!

 

I imagine the water line will look a bit daft when we have stripped all of our clutter off.

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Good day gents,

 

This is my first post and I am hopeful that I can offer some worthwhile assistance without shamelessly promoting our product. wink.png

 

First off, the chart titled "Comparison of Common Anchors in use today" is published by Mantus and in regards to our product, it is grossly inaccurate concerning how well the Fortress holds in hard soils (only two boxes out of four).

 

During the US Navy sand/clay and Miami sand tests, Fortress anchors consistently held to 200-300x times their weight. As an example, in the US Navy test, a 65 lb Fortress held to 14,800 lbs until the test was stopped due to the engines overheating aboard the test vessel, and in Miami that same anchor held to 20,000 lbs until the rope broke.

 

Obviously, when considering performance information it is wise to be sure that the results are from an independent, or at least independently-verified source.

 

So here is the bottom line (if you will pardon the pun): The lighter, aluminum-alloy Fortress should perform extraordinarily well in most common sand, mud, or clay types of bottoms where the precision-machined and sharpened large flukes can penetrate and bury deeply.

 

However, in difficult bottoms such as grass, weeds or rocks, an anchor with a single narrow fluke and significant weight (Ex: Delta) behind it might penetrate more deeply and perform better.

 

The old adage of "having the right tool for the job" comes to mind.

 

Safe anchoring,

Brian Sheehan

 

http://www.fortressanchors.com

 

 

 

 

 

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Good day gents,

 

This is my first post and I am hopeful that I can offer some worthwhile assistance without shamelessly promoting our product. wink.png

 

First off, the chart titled "Comparison of Common Anchors in use today" is published by Mantus and in regards to our product, it is grossly inaccurate concerning how well the Fortress holds in hard soils (only two boxes out of four).

 

During the US Navy sand/clay and Miami sand tests, Fortress anchors consistently held to 200-300x times their weight. As an example, in the US Navy test, a 65 lb Fortress held to 14,800 lbs until the test was stopped due to the engines overheating aboard the test vessel, and in Miami that same anchor held to 20,000 lbs until the rope broke.

 

Obviously, when considering performance information it is wise to be sure that the results are from an independent, or at least independently-verified source.

 

So here is the bottom line (if you will pardon the pun): The lighter, aluminum-alloy Fortress should perform extraordinarily well in most common sand, mud, or clay types of bottoms where the precision-machined and sharpened large flukes can penetrate and bury deeply.

 

However, in difficult bottoms such as grass, weeds or rocks, an anchor with a single narrow fluke and significant weight (Ex: Delta) behind it might penetrate more deeply and perform better.

 

The old adage of "having the right tool for the job" comes to mind.

 

Safe anchoring,

Brian Sheehan

 

http://www.fortressanchors.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for your input - I welcome it, and would welcome input from other manufacturers / suppliers to try and get a wider picture.

 

I am sure you will have noted that in the MBM (independent) review I posted, the Fortress was mentioned for its excellent performance / weight ratio :

 

Where the 22lb was tested and the test terminated at 5000lbs pull "the anchor hadn't budged'.

 

I commend you on your anchors.

 

Incidentally - agreed - one anchor cannot do 'everything well' there has to be compromises unless one is prepared to carry several different types as Bower anchors and some additional ones as Kedge anchors.

 

Just as an aside - what size would you recommend for a 38 foot, 12 ton, blue-water cruising catamaran ?

 

In the UK, a big negative of the Fortress anchors is their price.

The 21kg Fortress is GBP £1,672

The (apparent functional) equivalent Mantus at 30kg I have just purchased is GBP £600

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Thank you for your input - I welcome it, and would welcome input from other manufacturers / suppliers to try and get a wider picture.

 

I am sure you will have noted that in the MBM (independent) review I posted, the Fortress was mentioned for its excellent performance / weight ratio :

 

Where the 22lb was tested and the test terminated at 5000lbs pull "the anchor hadn't budged'.

 

I commend you on your anchors.

 

Incidentally - agreed - one anchor cannot do 'everything well' there has to be compromises unless one is prepared to carry several different types as Bower anchors and some additional ones as Kedge anchors.

 

Just as an aside - what size would you recommend for a 38 foot, 12 ton, blue-water cruising catamaran ?

 

In the UK, a big negative of the Fortress anchors is their price.

The 21kg Fortress is GBP £1,672

The (apparent functional) equivalent Mantus at 30kg I have just purchased is GBP £600

Alan,

 

Thank you for your kind words. Regarding a recommended anchor size for your boat, it would be helpful to know the intended use (primary, stern, or storm) and the bottom & wind conditions that you are likely to encounter while anchoring.

 

Concerning the comparison of the 30 kg Mantus and 21 kg Fortress, their model is recommended as a "working anchor" for boats up to 45-ft, while the 21 kg FX-85 is recommended for boats up to 68-ft for this type of use.

 

As per their charts, you would have to get a 125 lb / 57 kg Mantus for a working anchor aboard a boat of that size.

 

Worth noting is that the 21 kg FX-85 has served as the primary anchor aboard the US Coast Guard's 87-ft patrol boat since 2002 and 73 are in active service:

 

USCG_87_CPB_Fortress_FX_85.jpgfree photo hosting

 

I saw the title and thought this thread was going to be about the recent US elections, they did choose a right anchor

It was a fluke.

 

I greatly appreciate the humor!

Edited by Fortress Anchors
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Alan,

 

Thank you for your kind words. Regarding a recommended anchor size for your boat, it would be helpful to know the intended use (primary, stern, or storm) and the bottom & wind conditions that you are likely to encounter while anchoring.

 

Concerning the comparison of the 30 kg Mantus and 21 kg Fortress, their model is recommended as a "working anchor" for boats up to 45-ft, while the 21 kg FX-85 is recommended for boats up to 68-ft for this type of use.

 

As per their charts, you would have to get a 125 lb / 57 kg Mantus for a working anchor aboard a boat of that size.

 

Worth noting is that the 21 kg FX-85 has served as the primary anchor aboard the US Coast Guard's 87-ft patrol boat since 2002 and 73 are in active service:

 

USCG_87_CPB_Fortress_FX_85.jpgfree photo hosting

 

 

I greatly appreciate the humor!

Humour old bean, humour. This an English forum. smile.png

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Whats wrong with traditional Fishermans anchors, great on rocky bottoms and with wide flukes great for muddy bottoms.

 

They tend to perform poorly in comparison tests against more modern designs, in terms of holding power for their weight. Also they're awkward to stow as they don't go neatly up a hawse pipe or whatever.

 

My conclusion was there's not much wrong with them if sized appropriately though. Ours is something like 75-100kg.

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Whats wrong with traditional Fishermans anchors, great on rocky bottoms and with wide flukes great for muddy bottoms.

My apologies for the oversight. Yes, they are brutally strong and heavy and only worked well aboard countless boats for several centuries. We have one that adorns the entrance to our factory:

 

Fortress_anchor_out_front.jpgforum image hosting

 

Fortress_anchor_out_front_2.jpgupload gambar

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When we were on the Norfolk Broads, the general anchor used by broads skippers was a mud weight, some call it a mud anchor, basically a tapered cast iron weight, weighing up to 25 kg, or 56lb, as often cast iron scale weights were regularly used as well. For our Viking 23, we found a 28 lb cast iron weight was adequate, but if the wind got up, I could double that, and I could add more.

 

However, on the Thames, which can have considerable flow, especially near the weirs, I decided to blow the dust off a 7 kg danforth type anchor that I had inherited from my father. I added 6m of chain, and I keep this close to hand in the cockpit, ready to deploy, as we have a rope tied off to the bow that reaches the cockpit, and a depth sounder so we can deploy the correct amount of line.

 

My first thought was... how was I going to retrieve it, then as I read various comments on here, that supported my own belief that the anchor is expendable, when you consider the consequences leading up to it's use in anger. We are not going to be casual mooring in a tidal weir stream. If it has to be abandoned, we could buoy it with one of the large fenders and retreive later.

I have also made up a loop of chain on a line, that I could wobble down the anchor warp and anchor shaft, and attempt to pull the anchor out backwards, never tried this though... but dib dib dib, be prepared lol

Mud weight http://www.brianwards.co.uk/chandlery/mooring-equipment/10kg-mud-weight.html

 

You have pretty much 'nailed it'.

In a 'river' deployment it is more than likely that it will be an emergency deployment due to engine failure so scenario 3b is most likely.

 

You would be surprised by the number of people who suggest that its better / easier / more convenient to anchor 'off the stern'.

Unfortunately it tends to be people whom have never anchored a boat in their life.

Trouble is, if your running down stream and the river width is not twice the length of your boat you could well end up across the stream, I am thinking of places like the Nene.

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Mud weight http://www.brianwards.co.uk/chandlery/mooring-equipment/10kg-mud-weight.html

Trouble is, if your running down stream and the river width is not twice the length of your boat you could well end up across the stream, I am thinking of places like the Nene.

 

If the river is that narrow, then either :

 

1) Drift into the side.

2) Throw the anchor out sideways

3) Grab a tree as you go past.

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If the river is that narrow, then either :

 

1) Drift into the side.

2) Throw the anchor out sideways

3) Grab a tree as you go past.

Yes I was offered the same advice and that it is a good idea to also carry a grappling hook on a good length of sturdy rope to throw into bushes and trees to help pull you in. We did have occasion on a friends boat to do this and it worked very well with little drama.

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Each to their own - but as quoted above :

 

In the same locations stockless anchors four times the weight were recording pulls a quarter of the Rocnas results.

 

Stockless anchors are consistently out performed by modern variants. (by a factor of 16 times in the case of the Rocna)

 

As Ian says in post #11 - for a canal / river boat the anchor is the last chance and needs to work 1st time - everytime. For a sea going / estuary boat, if it doesn't set immediately it doesn't matter and you can just re-set it.

 

Recently our 20Kg Brittany anchor ( a fairly good one but which we are currently replacing with a 30kg Mantus) dragged about 6 or 7 times during the night, the anchor alarm sounded and we just re-deployed eventually getting 10x water depth (in 6 foot of water) with 100% chain.

 

Maybe it is time to review your anchor and the requirements you have for it.

Not at all. Results of tests will depend on the location, what tests were conducted. If anchors are tested at a single location then the results will bias certain types. I've read other test reports which contradict what you say, so the "consistency" that you speak of is flawed I'm afraid. It really depends which reports you read. If your knowledge is based on a single report your choices will be limited.

 

Stockless anchors are based on the Navy anchor which have been successfully used for over 100 years. The Stockless anchor is designed for all types of bottoms and they have the advantage of a dead weight for holding in very hard bottoms which plough types may not penetrate or hold. The Stockless' ability to bite and hold in sand and/or mud means they are still widely used in industry.

 

 

These days it seems no one is using anything other than 'plough' type anchors - another series of tests from "Yachting Monthly"

 

Yachting Monthly -Anchor Test Nov09.pdf

No one? Really? Ha, I think not. Perhaps in the yachting world... Maybe it's time for you to take your blinkers off, but as you say, each to their own.

Edited by blackrose
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Not at all. Results of tests will depend on the location, what tests were conducted. If anchors are tested at a single location then the results will bias certain types. I've read other test reports which contradict what you say, so the "consistency" that you speak of is flawed I'm afraid. It really depends which reports you read. If your knowledge is based on a single report your choices will be limited.

 

Stockless anchors are based on the Navy anchor which have been successfully used for over 100 years. The Stockless anchor is designed for all types of bottoms and they have the advantage of a dead weight for holding in very hard bottoms which plough types may not penetrate or hold. The Stockless' ability to bite and hold in sand and/or mud means they are still widely used in industry.

 

No one? Really? Ha, I think not.

 

So, you admit that on hard-bottoms the stockless anchor is purely a 'mud weight' in which case any anchor of the same weight would function at least as well.

On soft / mud bottoms the weight of a stockless means it sinks-in - again any anchor of the same weight would give the same or better performance.

 

Why would I want to carry a 120kg+ anchor (which my windlass wouldn't pull-in) when I can get good / better performance with one of the 'modern' anchors at 30kgs (or even under 20kg for a Fortress).

 

I 100% agree that tests can be manipulated to show the 'preferred' anchor in a better light, and that no anchor will offer the 'best performance' in everything from Hard, to soft, to rock, to weed. We have to accept a compromise and use an anchor best suited to our normal cruising area.

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So, you admit that on hard-bottoms the stockless anchor is purely a 'mud weight' in which case any anchor of the same weight would function at least as well.

On soft / mud bottoms the weight of a stockless means it sinks-in - again any anchor of the same weight would give the same or better performance.

 

I never said anything about a Stockless anchor being "purely" a mudweight! You need to learn to read and stop putting words in people's mouths.

 

I completely disagree that on soft/mud bottoms any [other] anchor of the same weight would give the same or better performance. That's utter nonsense. Navy, Halls and Stockless anchors remain some of the most common anchor types around the world. They wouldn't be so popular if they were simply mudweights!

Edited by blackrose
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