ukuleledaddy Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Just got a new log burner do I need to bolt it down to the floor any advice thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Just got a new log burner do I need to bolt it down to the floor any advice thanks Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Athy Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Yes, but make sure that you remove it from the shop first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LankyStreak Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Isn't there any alternative to bolts? My Morso Squirrel isn't bolted down and the boat safety examiner mentioned it last time and with a new BSS due soon I'm worried it will fail this time. It would be hard to do without wrecking the tiled hearth the burner is standing on. Are there no alternatives such as strong adhesives that would bond the feet of the stove to the floor without drilling the stove legs or the hearth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Isn't there any alternative to bolts? My Morso Squirrel isn't bolted down and the boat safety examiner mentioned it last time and with a new BSS due soon I'm worried it will fail this time. It would be hard to do without wrecking the tiled hearth the burner is standing on. Are there no alternatives such as strong adhesives that would bond the feet of the stove to the floor without drilling the stove legs or the hearth? Araldite is immensely powerful. You could stick little wooden blocks down behind each foot and screw through the feet into them. Cast iron drills very easily. Evostick have bought out Araldite, so its now Evostick 2 part epoxy glue, same stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Your BSS Examiner will check against this requirement: Non‐portable appliances must be incapable of unintended movement in any direction. Securing systems must be installed on all non‐portable appliances and securing systems and their fixing points must be of suitable strength and must: show no signs of fractured mounting brackets; not have loose, missing or fractured bolts or nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Isn't there any alternative to bolts? My Morso Squirrel isn't bolted down and the boat safety examiner mentioned it last time and with a new BSS due soon I'm worried it will fail this time. It would be hard to do without wrecking the tiled hearth the burner is standing on. Are there no alternatives such as strong adhesives that would bond the feet of the stove to the floor without drilling the stove legs or the hearth? But even if you glue it down really well its only as strong as the tiles and the glue holding the tiles down. Even Araldite looses some strength when hot, though the stove legs hopefully don't get more than warm. Get a tile drill bit and carefully drill holes through the tiles. If the Stove is not well fixed down it Will move when you crash into the end of a lock etc. ...............Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chalky Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 (edited) You also need to ensure that the installation complies with BS8511. This specifies requirements for the hearth construction, thermal insulation / fire protection, air supply and flue as well as security of mountings. http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe/solid-fuel-stoves/new-stove-new-chimney/ Edited September 26, 2016 by Chalky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 You also need to ensure that the installation complies with BS8511. This specifies requirements for the hearth construction, thermal insulation / fire protection, air supply and flue as well as security of mountings. http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe/solid-fuel-stoves/new-stove-new-chimney/ No you don't. It may be advisable, but it is not mandatory. Even the page you linked to says "you can find good advice based upon the BS 8511 Code of Practice...". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 (edited) One examiner grabbed hold of the stove and tried (and succeeded!) to move it slightly. He then failed the boat until I'd drilled and screwed the feet down. Edit for tryping Edited September 26, 2016 by WotEver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machpoint005 Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 But even if you glue it down really well its only as strong as the tiles and the glue holding the tiles down. Even Araldite looses some strength when hot, though the stove legs hopefully don't get more than warm. Get a tile drill bit and carefully drill holes through the tiles. If the Stove is not well fixed down it Will move when you crash into the end of a lock etc. ...............Dave An ordinary drill bit (for metal) will work fine if you take it steady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 An ordinary drill bit (for metal) will work fine if you take it steady. Didn't know that and never tried.....might it depend upon the type of tile? The tile drill bit is a very different shape to a metal drill bit. Little grinding stone in a Dremmel might be another option. Might be worth getting a similar type of tile and having a practise run first. ...............Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 I've used a (sharp) masonry bit to drill tiles before. Slow speed and obviously no hammer(!). I'd expect an HSS drill to go blunt before it got through a glazed tile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machpoint005 Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 I've used a (sharp) masonry bit to drill tiles before. Slow speed and obviously no hammer(!). I'd expect an HSS drill to go blunt before it got through a glazed tile. So did I -- but it does work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiggs Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 A couple of things, You don't have to bolt it down using the holes in the feet provided. It just has to be fixed somehow, so you could bolt or weld brackets to the back and fix it to the wall. I did come across one boat where the hearth was not fastened down so despite the stove being bolted to it wasn't safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 No you don't. It may be advisable, but it is not mandatory. Even the page you linked to says "you can find good advice based upon the BS 8511 Code of Practice...". Well said, there are enough rules without new ones being made up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 So did I -- but it does work! It may have got through but 'wore through' would be a more accurate description than 'drilled through'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacka Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 An ordinary drill bit (for metal) will work fine if you take it steady. No good for drilling metal when you have finished with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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