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Stove Door Glass Removal


lydfordcastle

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Don't think it's a secret. I had to drill mine out and keeping the lugs, used short bolts with nuts. Once you black the fire again it looks 'cool'.

 

Edit to add. I actually snapped the original bolts, intentionally, and did wot I said above.

Edited by Nightwatch
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From hard won experience I think the answers are:-

 

Yes.

 

Probably not.

 

I've tryed Plus Gas (usual desclainers) and stud extractors. The only result was that I had good pilot holes to drill full size and re-tap. Use realease grease on re assembly. It might make it easyer next time.

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Not the glass retaining bolts but my stove at home has a shaped plate at the back of the grate that is held in place with two 6mm setscrews that secures the back firebrick. The said screws are a pig to shift. I found that the screws will take far more "abuse" than you may think so use a suitable socket (NOT bi-hex, use flank drive or hex), a long extension bar so an 18" or so knuckle/breaker bar is out side the stove body. In the case of the glass screws you would not require the extension. The trick is to produce a very solid and firm support of the extension bar or socket that stops fore applied to the knuckle bar twisting the end of the socket to one side. I have had to do this twice now and each time I was waiting for the screw to snap but just as I thought it would got a loud bang as it moved.

 

If it is not a cast iron door (most are) abuse with a hammer first may help loosen the rust. In that case I would take the door off and lay it face down on something flat and hard so it supports the door.

 

Otherwise as other have said drill and tap or fit nuts and bolts

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I twisted the lugs sideways, removed the old glass, fitted the new glass and then twisted the lugs back into place.

 

Steve

What stove was that? I want one.

 

The air wash casting prevents this on the Morose Piddle and anyway the lugs had got well attatched to the door.

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I twisted the lugs sideways, removed the old glass, fitted the new glass and then twisted the lugs back into place.

Steve

I do similar in our Boatman except that having turned the lugs and removed the old glass I am then able to remove the screws. Clean out the hole with a tap, a bit of copper grease then reassemble with new screws.
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I twisted the lugs sideways, removed the old glass, fitted the new glass and then twisted the lugs back into place.

 

Steve

This exactly what did with the two I just couldn't get out.

 

I did find they were very tight to lift and spring them back over the edge of the glass because I had fit a new rope too. Luckily I didn't need to exert so much pressure that I broke the new glass.

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I had this problem a couple of weeks back and used a large pair of mole grips on the really stubbon ones as I didn't want to drill them out. Even they were stubborn so I did a trick I'd learnt a while ago and that was to twist as if to tighten first - this seemed to do the trick to break whatever resistance was there and they came out without too much trouble.

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I meant to add that I bought new screws and tabs (they came as a kit so it was just easier). Ive never replaced stove glass before and just whipped out the screwdriver. Those in the know understand that I then needed to buy new glass as not only did I break one door I foolishly repeated it on the second. What I then learnt from someone was to use my fingers to get it tight and IF still needed a tiny turn with a screwdriver. I then did a smoke test (I had replaced all the ropes prior to this). Happy to report zero leaks.

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I used the "twist it " method which worked for me . Also I searched through eBay and bought a second hand door ( with glass included ) which served well as an emergency replacement when the glass last cracked and the stove was hot.

 

Paul

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I used the "twist it " method which worked for me . Also I searched through eBay and bought a second hand door ( with glass included ) which served well as an emergency replacement when the glass last cracked and the stove was hot.

Paul

good plan.

 

I think, not sure, but I believe it was Mr Fincher who I copied with the snap it off method.

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I used the "twist it " method which worked for me . Also I searched through eBay and bought a second hand door ( with glass included ) which served well as an emergency replacement when the glass last cracked and the stove was hot.

 

Paul

 

having broke the glass through my inexperience and needing to repalce both bits, I bought 4 bits just in case I did it again.....now to find somewhere safe to store two bits of glass AND then remember where I stored it if/when it is needed. That will probably be the harder part!

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having broke the glass through my inexperience and needing to repalce both bits, I bought 4 bits just in case I did it again.....now to find somewhere safe to store two bits of glass AND then remember where I stored it if/when it is needed. That will probably be the harder part!

 

Why not post a photo here, and then we can remind you when the time comes ?? (Mine are on the bottom shelf of the cupboard opposite the side hatch)

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