Leaking rear sliding hatch door.

[rustydiver]

Last couple off times at the rear off the boat it's been a bit wet, below the sliding roof hatch, is there supposed to be a seal there. I can see daylight.

I've put it down the the rain running to the rear off the boat with the stong wind blowing it under.

[WotEver]

Every rear hatch I have ever seen has been different to the others. Some use a rubber seal, some use a brush seal, some just use a labyrinth path to keep the rain out.

 

If you have any pictures of the relevant parts of yours someone may have a suggestion or two.

[rustydiver]

Thanks will take some next time we are on the boat.

I've put somestuff on the roof to channel the rain away. And put some rubbers seals inside to block it out. Fingers crossed and a few buckets on the floor.

Roll on summer.

This is the only photo I could find

[WotEver]

And where is it leaking? At the front?

[rustydiver]

The bit furthest away from the doors the hatch sliding runners seem to Chanel the water to the roof hatch door with no holes to allow it to drain away either side.

The rear is covered with a tonnau cover.

On a totally separate note do you lightly grease the runners?

[system 4-50]

My runners are like yours.

I've had a lot of trouble trying to keep the water out.

It runs down the runners, under the hatch, and into the cabin.

I don't have time to do a proper fix so I've painted a bit of board that sits across the exposed runners, tilted, to divert the rain away.

It also keeps the leaves off which block the inadequate drainage holes under the runners.

Supremely inelegant but (so far) effective.

[rustydiver]

I've done the same sort off thing for tempory measures a piece off wood across the front off the runners with some rope packing the curved bits out. Hopefully to divert the flow off water.

[Sea Dog]

The bit furthest away from the doors the hatch sliding runners seem to Chanel the water to the roof hatch door with no holes to allow it to drain away either side.

 

My runners have a roof level hole in the rear of the rail upright each side where they meet the forward hatch combing to drain that 'box'. This prevents the hatch combing being overwhelmed on mine, perhaps that's the design flaw in yours?

[nb Innisfree]

My runners have a roof level hole in the rear of the rail upright each side where they meet the forward hatch combing to drain that 'box'. This prevents the hatch combing being overwhelmed on mine, perhaps that's the design flaw in yours?

I drilled a hole there but it kept blocking so with careful use of a slitting disc in an angle grinder I altered the hole into a slot.

Edited January 2, 2016 by nb Innisfree

[BargeeSpud]

I had this too, the water would ingress at the forward corners of the hatch opening & my solution was to drill 3 large countersunk holes to cover the entire width of the runner rail inboard of the brass runner strip & just forward of the hatch aperture. This had the effect of draining the water that pools on top of the rails before it reached the aperture corners. Just to make absolutely sure, I used a drill file to cut an angled drain channel off the inside edge of the rails at the aperture corners to assist drainage into the drain slots between the rails & roof.

 

Seemed to cure the problem

[Graham.m]

Mine is similar to yours but the bow end of the hatch cover is deeper than the sides and stops water blowing in from that end.

 

My big problem is sealing the joint between the top of the rear steel doors and the hatch. Only sure way I have come up with is a cover.

[Guest]

I have noticed one or two boats on our travels that have had pvc (or similar) type covers made that fit over the hatch and extend forwards over the runners, fastened down with press studs or similar. I assume they have had problems in the past.

[bastion]

I had this too, the water would ingress at the forward corners of the hatch opening & my solution was to drill 3 large countersunk holes to cover the entire width of the runner rail inboard of the brass runner strip & just forward of the hatch aperture. This had the effect of draining the water that pools on top of the rails before it reached the aperture corners. Just to make absolutely sure, I used a drill file to cut an angled drain channel off the inside edge of the rails at the aperture corners to assist drainage into the drain slots between the rails & roof.

 

Seemed to cure the problem

I too cut a groove in the runner and cured my leaking hatch

[nb Innisfree]

Mine is similar to yours but the bow end of the hatch cover is deeper than the sides and stops water blowing in from that end.

 

My big problem is sealing the joint between the top of the rear steel doors and the hatch. Only sure way I have come up with is a cover.

Using small coach bolts I fixed a length of steel angle on top and the rear of the sliding hatch, when closing the hatchthere was just enough upward play in it to be able to lift it up and slide it back and angle clipped over the top of the doors, Kept rain out and made doors very secure.

[Sea Dog]

I have noticed one or two boats on our travels that have had pvc (or similar) type covers made that fit over the hatch and extend forwards over the runners, fastened down with press studs or similar. I assume they have had problems in the past.

My hatch doesn't leak (post #8) but I also have such a cover which does both the hatch itself and extends down to cover the rear doors. It came with the boat, otherwise I don't think I'd have seen a need to buy one, but it's a comforting thing to have in place when the boat is left on her mooring unattended and it rains like it has recently!

[rustydiver]

Not sounding dumb. All right it does. if I make a cover for the rear to cover the runners, there is a tonneauf fitted over the semi trad rear bit, how do you fit the poppers to the roof. Don't fancy putting screws into the roof.

Edited January 2, 2016 by rustydiver

[Graham.m]

Using small coach bolts I fixed a length of steel angle on top and the rear of the sliding hatch, when closing the hatchthere was just enough upward play in it to be able to lift it up and slide it back and angle clipped over the top of the doors, Kept rain out and made doors very secure.

Thanks for the idea. Unfortunately fear door top is too low.

[Jess--]

Not sounding dumb. All right it does. if I make a cover for the rear to cover the runners, there is a tonneauf fitted over the semi trad rear bit, how do you fit the poppers to the roof. Don't fancy putting screws into the roof.

I think the usual fixing is either rivet or screw.

 

I understand your reservations about extra holes in the roof, would it be possible to fit the poppers to the sides of the runners themselves? or possibly an elasticated cover that would hold itself tight under the runner edges

[Guest]

I think the usual fixing is either rivet or screw.

 

I understand your reservations about extra holes in the roof, would it be possible to fit the poppers to the sides of the runners themselves? or possibly an elasticated cover that would hold itself tight under the runner edges

Ours are pop rivetd on for the rear cover. I did ask about this when Coverit fitted the hood, but they claimed no problems this way, and must say it has been all right for over 11 years.

[FadeToScarlet]

Not sounding dumb. All right it does. if I make a cover for the rear to cover the runners, there is a tonneauf fitted over the semi trad rear bit, how do you fit the poppers to the roof. Don't fancy putting screws into the roof.

Magnets sewn into the cover?

[Rickent]

I have noticed one or two boats on our travels that have had pvc (or similar) type covers made that fit over the hatch and extend forwards over the runners, fastened down with press studs or similar. I assume they have had problems in the past.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have this on mine and have no problems.

[BargeeSpud]

Just an observation regarding the reluctance to make holes in the roof.

 

If you drill & tap for the fine metric machine screws available in both brass & stainless steel to fix whatever you're fixing, you can apply some sort of sealing compound or, as I do, you can make & fit a rubber gasket. All you need is a sheet of thin rubber (tyre inner tube?), draw around the object marking the screw holes, cut out & pierce the hole positions with a sharp point like a bradawl & Robert's your Mother's brother.

 

I've used this method on 2 boats now without any problems.

 

 

Note: Taps & their relevant drills are available online from engineering supply companies & are reasonably priced, their web site should tell you the drill size required which is important. I would recommend buying quality 2nd cut taps, you don't really need 1st or 3rd cut taps, just take your time & don't get Biffo with them. Also, buy at least 2 drill bits of the size you need for the tap/s you're using as sod's law will dictate that you will break at least 1 before you've got used to them or finished the job!

Edited January 5, 2016 by BargeeSpud