12 Volt Circuit Breaker Panels

[alan_fincher]

I think I am going to need to completely rewire the 12 volt domestic side of Flamingo.

It would make sense to go to a modern distribution panel, with suitable circuit breakers, I think.

One option might be something like these listed at Midland Chandlers......



although other similar but not identical ones seem to exist, such as this e-Bay example

 

Linky

 

Has anybody got specific experience of installing panels like these, or similar, please ?

Any specific recommendations, or types to avoid.

 

Is there a better option?

[frangar]

Look at Blue Sea kit....much higher quality and the breakers can be tailored to the task.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Tom Richmond]

Various panels that I have had the pleasure of over the years all seem extremely simple when you get them up close. Very easy to DIY/modify if you felt the need...

[Paul C]

£42.95 sounds better than £72.95. Not sure what the difference is, and if its £30 of difference...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Circuit-Breaker-Switch-Panel-Marine-Boat-Narrowboat-/161665992584?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a40b4788

[by'eck]

You can have your own custom panels made. Mine where cut and etched by Newlove Engravers. I supplied a vectored pdf file of each panel and the finished engraved panels came back with laser cut switch holes accurate enough for the Carlingswitch circuit breakers to just pop in.

[by'eck]

Double post

Edited April 10, 2015 by by'eck

[OldGoat]

I fitted Axon panels to my boat - many years ago and have had no trouble with them.

Personally I prefer the separate switch and thermal breaker type (that's the £72 version also available from the same source on eBay). It must be my training...

The (Axon) advantage is that they will fit different breaker ratings to suit your requirements. The supplied adhesive labels are clear to read and stay stuck on.

The only caveat I have is that if you need, say, 25amp breaker(s) - you should fit them near the supply connection point. I found my cable was getting hot when drawing 20 amps.

[Sierra2]

You can have your own custom panels made. Mine where cut and etched by Newlove Engravers. I supplied a vectored pdf file of each panel and the finished engraved panels came back with laser cut switch holes accurate enough for the Carlingswitch circuit breakers to just pop in.

 

Thank you for the idea and the link by'eck. Rather than start a new post, I hope the OP is ok with me tagging along on the subject?

 

I plan to do as by'ect suggests but as I have 46 circuits (sea going cruiser) I was going to use click in blade fuse holders such as these to keep costs sensible: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/657/panel-blade-fuse-holder

 

I've ordered a couple to have a look at there construction and quality.

 

There are some 16 circuits that I consider critical (x4 Bilge Pumps, Nav, Anchor lights, wipers, VHF, AIS, chart plotter, gas alarm, horn etc) that I will use the Carling breakers for.

 

Can anyone tell me how the LED's in some Blade Fuse Holder banks that indicate a blown fuse work? IE is the LED wired across both sides of the fuse and when it blows, the load side becomes the Earth turning the LED on?. Would a diode be required?

 

I like the idea of quickly being able to identify the fuse in darkness

 

 

Thanks in advance

[by'eck]

 

Thank you for the idea and the link by'eck. Rather than start a new post, I hope the OP is ok with me tagging along on the subject?

 

I plan to do as by'ect suggests but as I have 46 circuits (sea going cruiser) I was going to use click in blade fuse holders such as these to keep costs sensible: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/657/panel-blade-fuse-holder

 

I've ordered a couple to have a look at there construction and quality.

 

There are some 16 circuits that I consider critical (x4 Bilge Pumps, Nav, Anchor lights, wipers, VHF, AIS, chart plotter, gas alarm, horn etc) that I will use the Carling breakers for.

 

Can anyone tell me how the LED's in some Blade Fuse Holder banks that indicate a blown fuse work? IE is the LED wired across both sides of the fuse and when it blows, the load side becomes the Earth turning the LED on?. Would a diode be required?

 

I like the idea of quickly being able to identify the fuse in darkness

 

 

Thanks in advance

 

I think that's basically it - wired across the fuse/breaker, when it blows the impedance of the LED is going to be much higher than the load, so most of the voltage will appear across it and if correctly biased (polarity wise) will illuminate. Remember an LED is a diode.

 

Note that although of varying design, the Carlingswitch breakers provide visual mechanical indication as to whether open or closed.

 

Sounds like your installation may be vaguely similar to that on my last boat, an ocean going yacht. You can just see the tiny mimic LED's of appropriate colour on yacht outline below. These were driven by a six channel current sensor unit such that whilst the main bulb filaments were powered and drawing current the LED's illuminated. Very useful as warning of blown bulb or bad connection.

 

Edited August 3, 2015 by by'eck

[FadeToScarlet]

Alan, I have one of the panels like the one illustrated that's surplus to requirements, I think it's got 8 separate breakers. Can give it to you at Alvecote?

[Sierra2]

 

I think that's basically it - wired across the fuse/breaker, when it blows the impedance of the LED is going to be much higher than the load, so most of the voltage will appear across it and if correctly biased (polarity wise) will illuminate. Remember an LED is a diode.

 

Note that although of varying design, the Carlingswitch breakers provide visual mechanical indication as to whether open or closed.

 

Sounds like your installation may be vaguely similar to that on my last boat, an ocean going yacht. You can just see the tiny mimic LED's of appropriate colour on yacht outline below. These were driven by a six channel current sensor unit such that whilst the main bulb filaments were powered and drawing current the LED's illuminated. Very useful as warning of blown bulb or bad connection.

 

Yes, the lighting mimic you refer to is on my wish list, I like the idea of that having been to sea once at night with mist. Does it work with LED bulbs fitted or just filament types in the nav light housing?.

 

This was the led indicating fuse box that gave me the other idea for doing my own: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/358/led-fuse-box

 

as it doesn't have an earth supply I assumed this was the only way it could work. Noted that LED's are diodes.

 

Chaz

Edited August 3, 2015 by Sierra2

[by'eck]

 

Yes, the lighting mimic you refer to is on my wish list, I like the idea of that having been to sea once at night with mist. Does it work with LED bulbs fitted or just filament types in the nav light housing?.

 

Chaz

 

Surprisingly given the tiny current draw yes they did when I upgraded anchor and tri-colour mast head light to LED's

[Chewbacka]

I made my panel using these

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/664/8-way-blade-fuse-box

and simple toggle switches. The other advantage of blade fuses is it is very easy to 'break into' the circuit to fault find using a plug-in current meter such as this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automotive-Current-Tester-Circuit-Meter-Standard-ATO-ATC-Blade-Fuse-Car-Vehicle-/400433639239?hash=item5d3bb46f47

 

Blade fuses are also very cheap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-FUSES120pc-BLADE-MIXED-AUTOMOTIVE-FUSES-AMP-5-10-15-20-25-30-FUSE-SET-NEW-/141466926715?hash=item20f015fe7b

[Guest]

I used a domestic distribution board fitted with Hager MCB's. The idea has made many swoon, but has worked great for 11 years. I have clearly marked it as 12V of course, and Hager breakers are (or were at the time) tested at 12V DC. Boat safety testers have been perfectly happy with the idea.

[Sierra2]

I made my panel using these

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/664/8-way-blade-fuse-box

and simple toggle switches

 

I haven't got much clearance at the board. I decided to make use of the Port side recess next to the helm controls for the DC side (AC on Starboard side).

 

Nice little tester that is

 

I used a domestic distribution board fitted with Hager MCB's. The idea has made many swoon, but has worked great for 11 years. I have clearly marked it as 12V of course, and Hager breakers are (or were at the time) tested at 12V DC. Boat safety testers have been perfectly happy with the idea.

 

With 46 circuits at £2-3 per MCB?

 

Rough sketch of what I'm planning (not to scale) with the panel mount Blade fuse holders and blown warning LED.

 

 

[Guest]

 

I haven't got much clearance at the board. I decided to make use of the Port side recess next to the helm controls for the DC side (AC on Starboard side).

 

Nice little tester that is

 

 

With 46 circuits at £2-3 per MCB?

 

Rough sketch of what I'm planning (not to scale) with the panel mount Blade fuse holders and blown warning LED.

 

 

A very different scenario to mine, and I too would use blade fuses with that many circuits. I have ten circuits.

[by'eck]

A very different scenario to mine, and I too would use blade fuses with that many circuits. I have ten circuits.

 

That's an awful lot of spare fuses you are going to need especially if they are a wide range of current ratings. Circuit breakers seem more popular when you have that many DC circuits. My previous Lloyds approved boat had provision for 50 circuits all protected with breakers - all but four were used.

[Sierra2]

It's all about cost for me. Can't warrant £400+ on just this area.

 

Speaking of spare fuses, other than fitting a line of the pop in fuse holders (that I listed above) to hold spare fuses, has anyone got a better idea?

[Guest]

Nearly certain that Vehicle Wiring Products sold a "selection box" of blade fuses with most sizes in a plastic box.

http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/silverline_tools_and_products/bulk_packs/car_spade_blade_fuse_assortment_set_5_to_30_amp_pack_380682_P28217.html?gclid=CMqZy66EkMcCFeTMtAod1bQE5Q

Edited August 4, 2015 by Guest

[Dave Clinton]

It's all about cost for me. Can't warrant £400+ on just this area.

 

Speaking of spare fuses, other than fitting a line of the pop in fuse holders (that I listed above) to hold spare fuses, has anyone got a better idea?

 

You don't need to fuse every circuit, fuse sets of circuits.

[Guest]

 

You don't need to fuse every circuit, fuse sets of circuits.

That is how I did our boat. For some reason boaters often like to run separate circuits to just about everything.

[Sierra2]

 

You don't need to fuse every circuit, fuse sets of circuits.

 

Sure, I have consolidated some circuits by just fusing one supply to the Galley and Head and Saloon lighting circuits putting in a small fuse box locally for respective extractor fans, shaving socket, under counter LED strip, down lighters etc.

[Higgs]

I think I am going to need to completely rewire the 12 volt domestic side of Flamingo.

 

It would make sense to go to a modern distribution panel, with suitable circuit breakers, I think.

 

One option might be something like these listed at Midland Chandlers......

 

although other similar but not identical ones seem to exist, such as this e-Bay example

 

Linky

 

Has anybody got specific experience of installing panels like these, or similar, please ?

 

Any specific recommendations, or types to avoid.

 

Is there a better option?

 

 

I've seen these in Midland Chandlers. I think the panel is poor quality and marks very easily. The material is similar to that used on cheap sign displays. Would like to renew my main board, but I wouldn't buy these. Sorry, they're just not built to take knocks. IMHO

[jonathanA]

No they don't. They are made from a plastic material so clearly will be scratched by metal, diamond rings etc but don't mark as soon as you look at them

 

That's my experience anyway.

 

To Alan try going direct to maker. Think it's something like gscontrols.com. I had an 8 way version which I wanted to upgrade to a 12 way and spoke to them and they supplied a 12 way with 4 switches/breakers fitted so I could transfer the 8 I had on the existing. seemed decent people to deal with.

[FidoDido]

I have one the same as the bottom pic (12 place one). a breaker failed after 26 years. Bloody shoddy - these things dont last like in older times....!!!

 

JonathanA - very helpful - will see if I can get a replacement breaker for the one that failed.. (I had a spare unused switch, so simply moved the cable to that, but would be sensible to have a few spare in case other switch goes duff in a decade or two..)