MDF fit out

[Polishicebreaker]

Apart from the obvious health consequences of working with Mdf, are there any good reasons to not use it for a fit out?

[Smudge]

No

[David Schweizer]

Apart from the obvious health consequences of working with Mdf, are there any good reasons to not use it for a fit out?

 

The health issues are really serious, people working with MDF in machine shops have to wear something akin to space suits to protect them from the dust.

 

As for suitability, it is really only suitable for panels which do not have to bear any stress. it caves in under pressure very easily, If you want to use man made boards I would suggest either high density chipboard or (if you can afford it) birch faced ply. Both are eassily worked, remain stable, and can bear loads.

[Kae]

After drying out several boats that suffered a serious water leak, all the wood has retained its original shape and integrity with the exception of one ply floor panel.

I personally wouldn't use MDF as one good soaking could lead it to expand and fail and a costly refit.

No-one sets out to flood their boat, but a failed calorifer, pipe or water tank is all it takes - and if you've used decent materials, it's mostly just inconvienent to dry out rather than seriously damaging.

 

Just my opinion

[Polishicebreaker]

That's a fair point,I Suppose ply around windows etc will stand getting wet in the event of future leaks.

[GUMPY]

Veneered MDF is fine, where normal MDF had been used on the barge if it had got wet I had to replace it.

All the inside walls on the barge were Ash faced MDF.

If cutting MDF do it outside not within the confines of a boat.

Edited August 27, 2014 by Loddon

[Ally]

MDF??

 

 

*shudder*

 

Each to their own, but I wouldn't touch it with a proverbial barge pole

[ditchcrawler]

The right grade of MDF will withstand water better than some so called marine ply's.

[David Schweizer]

The right grade of MDF will withstand water better than some so called marine ply's.

 

I agree with the comment about some "so called marine ply" but would be interested to know what the "right grade of MDF" is that will resist impregnation by water.

[Sir Nibble]

I got sacked for drilling 3mm holes in MDF without an extractor. Didn't have one but apparently I should have "rigged something up with the hoover". I was told to look up online how awful this stuff is (no risk assessment). So I went to the HSE website and according to them it's no worse than any softwood fibre unless you are seriously machining it when formaldehyde can become a problem if large amounts of material are machined away.

I wouldn't use it in any application at all on a boat.

[ditchcrawler]

 

I agree with the comment about some "so called marine ply" but would be interested to know what the "right grade of MDF" is that will resist impregnation by water.

Offcuts from the stuff I used on my ceiling laid around outside for months some of them in water with no softening or swelling. Quite a bit of MDF is used for external signs

[Rich]

 

I agree with the comment about some "so called marine ply" but would be interested to know what the "right grade of MDF" is that will resist impregnation by water.

WICKES MOISTURE RESISTANCE MDF BOARD

 

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Moisture-Resistance-MDF-Board-18x1220x2440mm/p/190138

 

As an experience worker in wood and mdf, now retired, in its place mdf is superb. Much easier to work than ply or any of the other wood based boards. If I was fitting out another boat, and a trip to the moon is more likely, I would possibly use OSB for under the gunwale inside but only because I think it looks attractive when varnished.

[fudd]

I agree with the comment about some "so called marine ply" but would be interested to know what the "right grade of MDF" is that will resist impregnation by water.

There is a grade of mdf that has a 50 year guarantee if left outside untreated. Can't remember its name but will post again when I remember. Proper exterior grade mdf is also very good, but it should be treated and or sealed. So should most plywood be treated the same. I think the mdf I was posting about is called 'trycol' or something.

Nothing wrong with using good quality mdf in the right circumstances. I wouldn't use it around windows for example. Mdf ain't what it used to be.

There is a grade of mdf that has a 50 year guarantee if left outside untreated. Can't remember its name but will post again when I remember. Proper exterior grade mdf is also very good, but it should be treated and or sealed. So should most plywood be treated the same. I think the mdf I was posting about is called 'trycol' or something.

Nothing wrong with using good quality mdf in the right circumstances. I wouldn't use it around windows for example. Mdf ain't what it used to be.

Edited to add the good stuff is formaldehyde free.

[smileypete]

Whether ply or moisture resistant MDF is used, it's good practice to ensure hidden surfaces and edges are well sealed, eg with protective wood stain.

 

No point buying decent materials and using them carelessly.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[greenboater]

Hi,

I'm going to try to seal the joints in the mdf trims my boat builder fitted!

Can anyone give me details on how to do this?

I need to clean out the joints and am not sure what tool to use to do this with?

How and what I use to seal them and what to fill them with which will not be affected by damp or condensation in the future.

The trims are painted and I have the paint to touch it all in.

Is it too late to seal over the paint after the joints have been treated?

You live and learn!

[Plonk]

Hi

Our boat is extensively fitted out with veneered mdf. Some serious deterioration around a couple of (mdf) porthole liners and one Houdini hatche. The rear hatch/engine room area is a bit the worse for wear, but considering the soakings it gets, is pretty good for 17 years old. Another coat of varnish and ok for another year or two.

 

Pat

[Mike Jordan]

As already stated its very good for some jobs, templates and patterns for use when machining shaped items for instance. With a real wood veneer on both faces its good for making panels for doors etc providing that it's housed into the solid frame and the edges are not visible. Builders of cheap and nasty boats tend to use it with the veneered faces but no surrounding solid frame and with the edges of the sheets machined with a moulding in an attempt to get an acceptable finish. The results are very poor, the difference in costs between this and a proper job are minimal if you are doing the work yourself. Beware of the boat builder with a CNC sheet cutting machine, they work at their best with MDF but the resulting boat will always be second rate in my opinion.

[greenboater]

Thanks Mike,

 

I had no idea you knew my boat builder but you describe him to a T!!

 

Could you give me a clue how to go about rectifying his handiwork? I'd appreciate it if anyone can answer the questions I posed.....

 

Regards

[ditchcrawler]

Thanks Mike,

 

I had no idea you knew my boat builder but you describe him to a T!!

 

Could you give me a clue how to go about rectifying his handiwork? I'd appreciate it if anyone can answer the questions I posed.....

 

Regards

It will also depend on what grade of MDF he used. I used MDF and laying outside in the rain the off-cuts feared much better than plywood and was still sound after many years. But I didn't but standard DIY MDF

[Mike Jordan]

The only method that springs to mind is filling the gaps with a two part epoxy filler before painting over the affected area. I wouldn't think that the gaps have been caused by the MDF shrinking but by the expansion of the steel shell. Are the surrounds made as two U shaped pieces joined in the middle?

[Guest]

MDF??

 

 

*shudder*

 

Each to their own, but I wouldn't touch it with a proverbial barge pole

I recall when the old boys used to say that about plywood!

The so called WBP ply on my boat floor is delaminating in places, whilst the veneered MDF bulkheads are as good as the day I fitted them.

Some hardwoods are more harmful to humans than MDF when machined (I am allergic to willow for example.)

Edited June 27, 2016 by Guest

[Murflynn]

(I am allergic to willow for example.)

so was I when the History master took his cricket bat out of the stationery cupboard, to be used for corporal punishment.

[Guest]

so was I when the History master took his cricket bat out of the stationery cupboard, to be used for corporal punishment.

 

It seems that Aspirin originally came from Willow. I am allergic to aspirin, hence sawing/sanding willow was not a good plan. Ended up at A&E once with breathing difficulties.

[raymondh]

This is the stuff

 

http://www.avonply.co.uk/Client%20Area/ASP/Tricoya.aspx

 

Comments?

[Claude]

 

I agree with the comment about some "so called marine ply" but would be interested to know what the "right grade of MDF" is that will resist impregnation by water.

I left a big offcut of green MDF that was used to build my bathroom counter on the pontoon outside my boat for about 9 months. I then gave it to a neighbour who used it to cover a panel.

 

It had resisted all water ingress during that time and hadn't warped.