Towing another boat - advice needed please

[FadeToScarlet]

Cross straps or a single short line if the towed boat is the same or lighter weight than the towing boat, otherwise.a longer line can work better.

 

Cross straps only work properly if the stem of the boat being towed keeps them apart so they cross in front of the stem and then self centre the towed boat. If the stem is too low that they can slide about and become a.triangle shape, the towed boat will try to oscillate and will end up probably jacknifing the pair.

 

On the straighter bits, you can unhook one strap, which lets the towed boat sit slightly to one side and avoid the prop wash more, which helps you get along a bit better.

 

It is worth completely clearing the stern of the towing boat and the fore end of the towed boat of anything that could get in the way, e.g. bikes, plant pots, coal bags etc., so you can quickly and safely handle the lines. The last thing.you want to happen is unhooking the towed boat to breast it up alongside, and have the tow rope catch on a bicycle pedal or similar right when you need to get it forwards to the T stud!

 

It's also really worth considering your own safety. Never put any part of yourself between the towed boat and the towing boat, to try and fend it off when.stopping, etc. Much better a chip in the paintwork than a crushed hand or foot! Also be very careful with lines under tension on dollies etc., you can trap and.hurt fingers if not careful.

[lynalldisocvery]

I am probably wrong but I think most insurance companies say you can tow no problem, IF either life or boat is in danger, not to much of an issue on a canal I suspect!

As mentioned above well worth a phone call

We did tow a boat bigger than us in the floods of 2011 up stream on the medway, it was a pretty stupid thing to do and we were very lucky to get away with what we did through the locks etc.

[Keeping Up]

Another picture of towing on cross-straps - taken when half-way through Crick tunnel. I love towing through a tunnel, it's worth it to see the look of alarm on the face of the steerer of an oncoming boat the instant he realises that he's got two boats to steer past instead of just one!

 

[MtB]

We did tow a boat bigger than us in the floods of 2011 up stream on the medway, it was a pretty stupid thing to do and we were very lucky to get away with what we did through the locks etc.

 

Why was it stupid? Because the towee was bigger?

 

I's agree towing downstream can be pretty hairy but what's the problem with upstream? Were you were underpowered?

 

MtB

[Wild Is The Wind]

Wow, I posted this an popped to Tesco and so many replies. Thanks everyone, just need a few minutes to take it all in. Have two weeks to decide. Mine is 60 x 10 and the other a 60ft nb, not deep drafted but looks to be poorly equipped. I will be travelling from Packet Boat to Rickmansworth and the other needs to get to Denham so only two locks. I could also add at this point if anyone else passing through with more experience than me and would like to help I could hook you up lol

[MtB]

Another picture of towing on cross-straps - taken when half-way through Crick tunnel. I love towing through a tunnel, it's worth it to see the look of alarm on the face of the steerer of an oncoming boat the instant he realises that he's got two boats to steer past instead of just one!

 

 

 

Haha yes, I remember rescuing a 70fter from the middle of the Blisworth tunnel on Reg. A boat coming the other way seemed quite rattled when he realised there was still another 70 ft still go once he'd passed REGINALD

[stagedamager]

Cross straps or a single short line if the towed boat is the same or lighter weight than the towing boat, otherwise.a longer line can work better.

 

Cross straps only work properly if the stem of the boat being towed keeps them apart so they cross in front of the stem and then self centre the towed boat. If the stem is too low that they can slide about and become a.triangle shape, the towed boat will try to oscillate and will end up probably jacknifing the pair.

 

On the straighter bits, you can unhook one strap, which lets the towed boat sit slightly to one side and avoid the prop wash more, which helps you get along a bit better.

 

It is worth completely clearing the stern of the towing boat and the fore end of the towed boat of anything that could get in the way, e.g. bikes, plant pots, coal bags etc., so you can quickly and safely handle the lines. The last thing.you want to happen is unhooking the towed boat to breast it up alongside, and have the tow rope catch on a bicycle pedal or similar right when you need to get it forwards to the T stud!

 

It's also really worth considering your own safety. Never put any part of yourself between the towed boat and the towing boat, to try and fend it off when.stopping, etc. Much better a chip in the paintwork than a crushed hand or foot! Also be very careful with lines under tension on dollies etc., you can trap and.hurt fingers if not careful.

I still reckon long line would be bad, without knowing the rudder size of the towed boat, on the southern GU, most will probably done on tickover, and without any great speed (relatively speaking!) there will be no real control. Single strap could work nicely.

Having had my fingers trapped under straps, the last paragraph is sound advice!

Dan

[bizzard]

Wow, I posted this an popped to Tesco and so many replies. Thanks everyone, just need a few minutes to take it all in. Have two weeks to decide. Mine is 60 x 10 and the other a 60ft nb, not deep drafted but looks to be poorly equipped. I will be travelling from Packet Boat to Rickmansworth and the other needs to get to Denham so only two locks. I could also add at this point if anyone else passing through with more experience than me and would like to help I could hook you up lol

A lot lighter than your boat then so I'd say cross strap it and if the towed boat has no steerer lash its rudder straight ahead.

[craftycarper]

I'm with craftycarper on this. Chances of doing enough damage to warrant an insurance claim are vanishingly small. I'd just take the chance and pay out of my own pocket in the unlikely event I damaged something, and even more unlikely my insurance refused to pay.

 

Like CC says, the Dunkirk spirit is sadly missing in so many people these days, who are scared of their own shadow...

 

 

MtB

. Thanks mike agree wholeheartedly last year a friend of mine,s boat broke down and he asked me for help so I went and towed him to his mooring and he repaid me with a bottle of wine this morning I towed another mates van to the garage because it broke down and he was stuck it's what I do for my mates if there in trouble I help em out maybe I,m just old fashioned but I think we should all have friends we can rely on when the shit hits the fan and it's nice to see I,m not alone ATB Paul

[FadeToScarlet]

Some photos of different ways of doing it which I've tried in the past-

 

 

How NOT to use cross straps safely. Because the stem post of the towed boat (heavy 70' being towed by a lightweight 48') lets the straps from a triangle shape, the control is lost a bit and the towed boat can start to come up alongside the towing boat and jackknife the pair- which is a Bad Thing.

 

I'd've been much better off using a short rope from each of e fender eyes, as in Keeping Up's photo above to keep the straps crossed over. If they don't cross, they don't work.

 

 

Towing on a long line. Good for rivers where you have a bit more space and can get a flow over the rudder of the towed boat, but not so good for the cut where you have less control. It lets you go almost as fast, however, as without a boat being towed which is great if you have the space, but less good if you don't. Stopping is interesting, because you have to breast up the towed boat alongside.

[Mike Tee]

If the towed boat wanders about due to wind or whatever, tie a rope to an old tyre and chuck it off the back of the towed boat - this will keep it in line with the tug. Not too long, 5 or 6 foot should do it.

Don't forget to pull it out when finished - don't ask how I know.

[Radiomariner]

For me, definitely cross straps. If there is a need to stop, letting off one of the cross straps will allow the towed boat to slide along the opposite side. Also, when the towed boat has a small rudder advise that the steerer on the towed boat be prepared to assist the steering with use of a pole. Good communications between boats would be helpful.

[FadeToScarlet]

A few more images.... Note that these are all on the river, I'd use much shorter straps if on the canals for more control.

 

A friend's widebeam using my long cross straps to tow a 45' narrowboat. If the straps are longer, you can put the loop onto the other dolly and then hook it around the one on the other side to shorten them for control, and then unhook and lengthen the straps for speed if you're on a wider part.

 

 

 

 

And one more of towing with my old, smaller boat:

 

 

No chance of the straps becoming uncrossed with this monster stem post!

Edited March 28, 2014 by FadeToScarlet

[Wild Is The Wind]

What excellent advice, thanks everyone, lots I hadnt thought about and great pics which is really helpful as cross strapping did sound baffling - will ponder on this over the next week. I will check out the insurance but I'd like to help if I can. Already have some scrapes (!) and it will be good experience I might need again in the future. Another adventure! I must say I do think its nice to lend a hand when you can. Even though I didnt really know how to do it for the best we rescued three or four boats that were stuck last summer, i remember one of them had was a dad with a little boy who had been stuck for two hours with none of the passing boats willing to help. It took us half an hour and the marina had closed so we had to wait till the next morning for diesel but we were glad to have helped. Ali

Not already mentioned but obviously need to keep all ropes well under control and away from my rudder!

[FadeToScarlet]

I still reckon long line would be bad, without knowing the rudder size of the towed boat, on the southern GU, most will probably done on tickover, and without any great speed (relatively speaking!) there will be no real control. Single strap could work nicely.

Having had my fingers trapped under straps, the last paragraph is sound advice!

Dan

Yes, I agree- on the cut, unless you've got a proper ellum on the butty, you don't want to long line!

 

I too found a single strap worked well when towing with a widebeam, because you can put the fore end of the towed boat out of the prop wash.

[Wild Is The Wind]

So just to check, when stopping the aim would be to pull alongside, but also to build up my rear fender as well?

[bizzard]

It should be even more effective strapping from a wide beam as the stern dollies would normally be further apart. Dangle old tyres around the stern end to prevent scrapes.

[FadeToScarlet]

So just to check, when stopping the aim would be to pull alongside, but also to build up my rear fender as well?

Depends on why you're stopping. If you're pulling into a lock landing, you'd probably want to breast up the narrowboat alongside the towing widebeam if there was enough width to do this and let boats out of the lock. But if you came into a Bridgehole or needed to stop or slow down when towing along the cut, probably the rear fenders.

[stagedamager]

Hence why fenders should always face up and not droop!

[FadeToScarlet]

Edit to add: the towed narrowboat will probably hit the back of the widebeam as you go through a Bridgehole. This is just speculation as I've never towed with a widebeam on the canals, only pairs of narrowboats.

 

As you go into the Bridgehole, the narrows don't let water flow around the hull so well, so you get slowed down. The towed boat isn't in the Bridgehole yet, so will carry on forwards under its momentum and probably thump the towing widebeam, hence good fenders are needed!

[Wild Is The Wind]

Will keep you posted on how we get on!

[BEngo]

Edit to add: the towed narrowboat will probably hit the back of the widebeam as you go through a Bridgehole. This is just speculation as I've never towed with a widebeam on the canals, only pairs of narrowboats.

 

As you go into the Bridgehole, the narrows don't let water flow around the hull so well, so you get slowed down. The towed boat isn't in the Bridgehole yet, so will carry on forwards under its momentum and probably thump the towing widebeam, hence good fenders are needed!

 

A wonderful technique for mucky bridge holes. Towing boat stops, towed boat thumps it up the fender and over the obstruction. Towing boat winds it on and the towed boat is snatched over the obstruction.

 

Done this many times on the BCN. Can be a bit bloody hard on tipcats and stern buttons.

 

N

[Alan Saunders]

I am no expert but I often tow a light nb (33', 6 ton) behind a 70', ~20 ton nb single-handed. Below (TY 'Keeping Up') is also how I do it. N.B. the straps are not tied to the fender mountings, they only maintain the separation; the load is taken by the T-stud.

 

I have considered running ropes from the top corners of the cabin rail to provide more control when stopping for a lock but mostly I depend on grabbing a centre line. This has resulted in some embarrassment when there are boats moored offside within the 70' to 140' needed by a pair of boats at a lock. They tend to get upset if my 'butty' bangs into them before I can get it under control.

 

For short pounds and wide locks it is better to breast-up, but probably not for the OP's wide beam boat. I use warps and springs then dangle rope fenders into the fore and aft (swim) gaps and they automatically take up the slack.

Another picture of towing on cross-straps - taken when half-way through Crick tunnel. I love towing through a tunnel, it's worth it to see the look of alarm on the face of the steerer of an oncoming boat the instant he realises that he's got two boats to steer past instead of just one!

 

 

I'd say use cross-straps regardless of the size of the boat you're towing. If it''s a fairly modern motor boat the rudder will have virtually no effect without any prop-wash to make it work so you can probably ignore it completely.

 

If you find that the boat behind you is cutting the corners, shorten the straps slightly. Conversely if its stern swings to the outside of the corners, lengthen them slight.y.

 

Remember that when you stop, the boat behind will not stop until it hits you. Have a rubber tyre positioned to act as a buffer and try to avoid engaging reverse unless you have to.

Towing the light boat mentioned above I find that the unattended rudder does have some effect. Even a small offset can make it 'crab' or can compensate for a cross wind. The problem for the steerer of the unpowered boat is that not only is the rudder much less effective but the apparent response time is greater. Like learning to steer for the very first time but ten times as difficult.

 

I have always made the cross-straps as tight as I can get them! The towed boat's stern tends to stay where it was before the turn (swings out?). It seems to me that prop-wash from the (20") prop. 'blows' on the side of the towed boat. e.g. I turn a little to the right to make way for an oncoming boat and the towed boat now blocks the canal which may worry the oncoming boat's steerer. A little right helm to straighten up and the towed boat, usually, tucks in behind.

 

Next week I will try longer straps. TY again, but it will make stopping, even slowing, more 'interesting' and reversing impossible.

 

Tyres are an excellent suggestion. I have seriously damaged the bow fender of the towed boat. With an empty water tank it hit the the rudder bearing and with a full water tank it broke the stern light bracket.

 

A single line tow is not for beginners: I towed a stranger a few miles from Devizes and had to stop to twice to clear the duckweed from my raw water filter, both times he rammed me but I did not complain. Another time I rescued a grounded friend and towed him through a shallow pound. I could not get to mid-channel, I could see that he was listing and not 'in the channel'; my little boat with a small prop. was the tail being wagged by the dog. Cross-strapped would have been a better option on both occasions.

Edited March 28, 2014 by Alan Saunders

[paddy r]

We cross strap when in busy bits cause its easier for other boaters,( some boater can't see past 60' in front of them) as you are towing a "motor" not a butty do not use a line as it will tow like a pig! As for stopping try to think further in front i.e. there is a lock just round the bend i need to slow down now to make life easy . and remember the back of your boat is the "butty" brake,and it will jack knife across the cut if you have to do a quick stop! Been towing our butty about for 3 years now and it easy if you take your time.

[craftycarper]

This is just a thought but the main concern here seems to be stopping the towed boat from ramming the towing boat so maybe a technique I have used for towing inexperience drivers might work or be adaptable for boats is to thread the rope through a length of scaffold tube this gives the towing vehicle almost total control over the towed one and stops any collision ?