240v supply for gas cooker

[homer2911]

About to buy a new gas cooker (which incidentally means I have a gas hob and built-in oven for disposal!). New gas cookers of the type I'm looking at all need a 240 v supply, but on that side of the boat I only have 12v. I have two alternatives - one is to run a new 240v line to that part of the boat. However my inverter gets switched off at night (cooling fan too noisy) so I would be re-setting the cooker's clock every day!

 

My preferred alternative is to locate a small inverter next to the cooker, using the existing 12v supply. Any recommendations for an inverter and can I anticipate any problems?

Edited January 7, 2013 by homer2911

[Keeping Up]

There should be no problems, we did that when we first got our cooker. We used one of the small "coke-can" style inverters and it was just fine.

 

There is the downside that the inverter will take its own standing current all the time, including overnight. We don't switch the main inverter off at night (it's a fairly small one anyway) which was why I extended the main 240v supply across when the opportunity arose, and sold the small one on eBay.

 

I must admit I do rather like having the illuminated clock showing me the time if I get up during the night.

 

 

[Nickhlx]

There should be no problems, we did that when we first got our cooker. We used one of the small "coke-can" style inverters and it was just fine.

 

There is the downside that the inverter will take its own standing current all the time, including overnight. We don't switch the main inverter off at night (it's a fairly small one anyway) which was why I extended the main 240v supply across when the opportunity arose, and sold the small one on eBay.

 

I must admit I do rather like having the illuminated clock showing me the time if I get up during the night.

 

 

 

You could put some black insulation tape over the cooker display and instal a LED clock ? clock radio nearby that ran off 12 volts ?

 

 

( or replace the clock module with a 12 v item ?)

 

Nick

Edited January 7, 2013 by Nickhlx

[homer2911]

You could put some black insulation tape over the cooker display and instal a LED clock ? clock radio nearby that ran off 12 volts ?

 

 

( or replace the clock module with a 12 v item ?)

 

Nick

 

I don't think the other half would take too kindly to spending 400 quid or more on a brand new gas cooker, only to adorn it with black sticky tape from the off!

[Graham Davis]

You may find that the clock (and igniter) are actually 12v, and there is a step-down transformer in the circuit.

Edited January 7, 2013 by Graham Davis

[Nickhlx]

I don't think the other half would take too kindly to spending 400 quid or more on a brand new gas cooker, only to adorn it with black sticky tape from the off!

 

I guess not...

 

Maybe the supply to the existing clock can be tapped into as the above suggested ?

 

Nick

[homer2911]

You may find that the clock (and igniter) are actually 12v, and there is a step-down transformer in the circuit.

 

 

Thanks for that - well worth knowing (haven't actually bought the cooker yet)

[Proper Job]

I do that with most appliances now.

 

It's suprising how many 240v appliances are stepped down to 12v (TV's etc). Try to buy the 12v equivilent and you pay a premium!

 

Be aware that, sometimes, 240v appliance control systems don't like/wont work with small/cheap inverters

[jimfin]

I was at the boat show this year and related the same problem I was having to a guy on the Aquafax stand.

He told me that they replace their 240v cookers module that they buy in with a 12v module.

I did this to a domestic 240v gas cooker and it works great.

Price £17.11 Part no. 16-01399 from "Aquafax Ltd" in Luton Ph (01582)568700

[nicknorman]

Just a word of caution, depending on the type of clock the timing reference could be the 50hz from the mains, which is adjusted by the grid to have, over say a 24 hr period, an exact average frequency of 50Hz to prevent any clock drift. This timing reference was used in mechanical clocks (synchronous motor) and occasionally in electronic ones, though these days its probable that an electronic clock has its own timing reference. Obviously if a clock does use the 50Hz and you run it from an inverter, its likely to gain or lose a lot of time, rapidly.

[blackrose]

I can't see the point of leaving an inverter on permanently (even a small one) and draining one's batteries just to keep a cooker clock going? Perhaps I've missed something, but it seems ridiculous to me.

[Ex- Member]

Be careful the oven isn't fan assisted as well, we don't have a clock, but the oven fan is 240v and the clicker. We'll have an inverter working full time anyway so no bother to us. Oven could well overheat though if fan doesn't engage. My brother test ran his without 240 and the control knobs started to melt and the whole thing smoked.

[valrene9600]

Be careful the oven isn't fan assisted as well, we don't have a clock, but the oven fan is 240v and the clicker. We'll have an inverter working full time anyway so no bother to us. Oven could well overheat though if fan doesn't engage. My brother test ran his without 240 and the control knobs started to melt and the whole thing smoked.

 

I am installing a Canon connemara C50LCIW/1. It has 240 ignition and a cooling fan that I assume draws excess heat up through vents at the rear of the hob top. NOT a fan oven.

 

My problem is I do not want to run a 3000w inverter to service the fans needs. I can quite easily use a small inverter for the ignition and switch it on/off as needed or use a match and as for the digital clock I have no need to be controlled in any way by time so that can remain off/wrong.

 

So main problem is what size inverter will cope with the fan when it does click in. I have phoned Canon that answers to Hotpoint servicing but they can`t tell me the watts of the fan.

 

Any suggestions fellow members?

 

[nicknorman]

I am installing a Canon connemara C50LCIW/1. It has 240 ignition and a cooling fan that I assume draws excess heat up through vents at the rear of the hob top. NOT a fan oven.

 

My problem is I do not want to run a 3000w inverter to service the fans needs. I can quite easily use a small inverter for the ignition and switch it on/off as needed or use a match and as for the digital clock I have no need to be controlled in any way by time so that can remain off/wrong.

 

So main problem is what size inverter will cope with the fan when it does click in. I have phoned Canon that answers to Hotpoint servicing but they can`t tell me the watts of the fan.

 

Any suggestions fellow members?

 

Why not measure the current since you already have the oven and a 230v supply? Double it for startup surge.

[frangar]

Although it would void a Warranty I would be tempted to fit a 12v fan and ignition module....

 

The fan will be a very small load....you could probably get away with a 150w inverter...however I'm not sure how the motor would get on with a square wave or MSW which most of the small cheap inverters are...

 

I too am looking for a cooker that doesn't need 240v for the simple things...seems a shame no one makes one any more.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Ex- Member]

Although it would void a Warranty I would be tempted to fit a 12v fan and ignition module....

 

The fan will be a very small load....you could probably get away with a 150w inverter...however I'm not sure how the motor would get on with a square wave or MSW which most of the small cheap inverters are...

 

I too am looking for a cooker that doesn't need 240v for the simple things...seems a shame no one makes one any more.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

 

That could be problematic as there are fail safes that cut out the flame if the fan fails or stops. The 240v fan must be interconnected somewhere for these safety features to work. Some of the censoring equipment could be 240v.

[frangar]

That could be problematic as there are fail safes that cut out the flame if the fan fails or stops. The 240v fan must be interconnected somewhere for these safety features to work. Some of the censoring equipment could be 240v.

 

I'm not sure that's the case if the fan simply cools the controls.....all our stoves cooker fan has is a thermostat to cut the fan in as the temperature rises...I agree that if it's a fan assisted oven it's a totally different game.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Ex- Member]

I'm not sure that's the case if the fan simply cools the controls.....all our stoves cooker fan has is a thermostat to cut the fan in as the temperature rises...I agree that if it's a fan assisted oven it's a totally different game.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

 

They are fan assisted ovens, the fan disburses heat evenly around the oven to promote faster cooking. It's not a safety device for overheating, although by design it does regulate temperature.

 

If the oven is switched on and sometime later the fan fails the gas supply is cut off, this is nothing to do with overheating, it's a pre emptive action to avoid overheating. The fan also runs for a couple of minutes even after switching off gas, so I'm guessing is also on a timer or temp sensor to switch off automatically.

[Keeping Up]

No the Cannon Connemara is NOT a fan assisted oven. It's all to do with the temperature; Cannon did tell us that it doesn't matter except that the control knobs might melt!

 

The fan is quite a low wattage; I reckon that the fan and oven light on ours together take about 25 watts, and I think our oven light is 15 watts so a very small inverter will suffice.

[Ex- Member]

No the Cannon Connemara is NOT a fan assisted oven. It's all to do with the temperature; Cannon did tell us that it doesn't matter except that the control knobs might melt!

 

The fan is quite a low wattage; I reckon that the fan and oven light on ours together take about 25 watts, and I think our oven light is 15 watts so a very small inverter will suffice.

 

Ahh ours is a New World. I'll try to find the manual, I'm sure it was fan assisted, could be wrong though.

[Higgs]

Mine's a Newworld 55TWLG. The mains or small inverter is only connected when the grill or oven is being used, to power the fan. For only hob use, I light the gas the old fashioned way as the piezo ignition only works when using 240v. Having the mains off has no detrimental effect on flame failure system.

 

The fan, anyway, is not on continuously and is active periodically when using the oven. I don't think the oven is what you'd call fan assisted and the fan is only ventilating. The fan is on continuously when using the grill. The grill front is open all the time during use and that always sets the fan going.

[valrene9600]

No the Cannon Connemara is NOT a fan assisted oven. It's all to do with the temperature; Cannon did tell us that it doesn't matter except that the control knobs might melt!

 

The fan is quite a low wattage; I reckon that the fan and oven light on ours together take about 25 watts, and I think our oven light is 15 watts so a very small inverter will suffice.

 

Sorry not to reply sooner to you all but have been busy chopping the worktop about and fitting stove.

 

Just to clarify are you running the Connermara? Can I assume a 150w should run the fan although as someone said the wave might not be ok with the cooker but worth a try as I have a 150w inverter on the boat.

[Keeping Up]

Yes we are using a Connemara and yes a 150 watt inverter will be easily powerful enough.

[valrene9600]

Many thanks

[valrene9600]

Just to let everyone know the outcome I have installed a 150w inverter and it runs the fan etc fine.

Many thanks to Keeping Up for your info.