Nickhlx

So would I, but has to be ruled out if its even a low likelyhood...

If the pump is wired with 3 core mains cable, try disconnecting the earth wire and isolate the pump from the boat's metalwork (put on a piece of cardboard) They do run ok dry for a few moments, but check it is not seized from non-use, although the stall current is unlikely to trip a RCD. The bleed bung can be removed and a screwdriver slot on the end of the shaft should allow a screwdriver to check the rotor is free to spin... Nick

I think the belt is inadequate to pass the power / torque needed to the alternator - assuming it is tightened correctly. The larger alternator will naturally consume more mechanical power, especially when starting as the battery is likely drawing more power from it, but a cold belt will also have less friction and be more prone to slip - you could no doubt prove this by switching on a heavy load ( microwave ?) just after the initial screeching has stopped after start up, and if it starts when the microwave is switched on, that proves the point... Things to check is that the pulley on the alternator is the same diameter as previously or about a third to half the size of the crank pulley, and with adequate "wrap" of the belt around it at least 1/2 and preferably 3/4 of the way around the alternator pulley would be ideal. Hope that helps, Nick

I would think it could be used as a secondary fuel tank if you have a Webasto / Lockgate diesel stove and filled with cleaner burning Kerosene / 28 second oil. We have this setup on ours and have always used 28 second fuel to run ours and, burning cleaner than diesel and somewhat less expensive, have not yet had to clean either. Upsides: a) Kerosene is cleaner burning / reduces maintenance costs b) Kerosene is cheaper - just ordered at 46.2 p/L Downsides : a) The Lockgate needed re-jetting to make the scale linear. b) It may be more difficult to find Kerosene, but we have this for home heating and I don't mind the exercise to take a Jerry can or two to the boat every now and then. Not sure how many use this on their boats, but it seemed a good idea to me...

To charge a 6V battery at say 1 amp, simply put a 6 volt 6 watt filament bulb in series with it - the bulb will pass 1 amp at six volts and slightly more if voltage slightly higher, and the battery will get the same current passing through it, thereby charging it Nick

It could be because it needs adjusting so it is a plus or minus figure to sync the audio to the video - have you tried adjusting away from 0 ms (which probably assumes no adjustment is needed) ? Nick

In the end, I have gone with International Paints, partly through nervousness about the subject, and partly because the painter recommended it, so seemed like a safe way to proceed - it's "only" the "above-waterline" that is being done, as this has suffered quite badly over the years, and the painter's team has rubbed down to expose the bare metal in most places... after seeing the preparation time and work they have put in, I am glad I didn't consider it was something I might "have a go at" - so far I am impressed....

Thanks for that snippet - filed for future use !

Thanks for the info, Tony. I was a bit late to catch the manufacturers this afternoon, so will try on Monday... Nick

Thanks for the opinions guys - I am not a painter although do realise that some paints can react with what is underneath - The boat is now largely rubbed back to begin with the undercoats, but hesitant to not use what was used before, in case it all goes to pot with a reaction. They sell Craftmaster in the local shop, but not sure it will be compatible.. I will give Arcrite and International a call - thanks for the info...

The boat is coming up to 8 years old and have decided to give it a good overhaul and have it repainted. It was originally painted using Rylards paints and wondered where I can buy these with any discount ? Recommendations appreciated Thanks, Nick

No - not Trojans for a Bowthruster - I was just using the example that they have done good prices on them when I needed some for the main domestic bank

Tayna batteries ( https://www.tayna.co.uk/ ) and Bristol Batteries (now BBL Batteries) (http://www.bblbatteries.co.uk/ ) have done some good prices on flooded lead acid batteries ( Trojans) for me in the past if that is any help. Good turnover (fresh stock) and fully charged on arrival is something to check when you get them (i.e. rested voltage with a known accurate voltmeter) Nick

Impedance is very likely to be 75 ohms as most are for TV, satellite or terrestrial. If it were 50 ohms, over 20M it will likely make a little difference, although using the intended impedance cable would certainly be best. Assuming it has not had a nail driven through it, it is almost certainly a stray strand of the braid at one end or the other, touching the centre core of one of the connectors..

Yes - and that there is no short between the inner and outer - if there is, its not ALWAYS true its a short, as sometimes there is a choke across the inner and outer Nick

........or fit a Willis Immersion with simple plumbing to existing fittings ? - about £35 and very common in Ireland, but readily available on E-Bay etc... and it has the advantage of being able to heat the whole tank if fitted correctly... I use these at home to heat the whole tank as we have an excess of solar generation so seems a shame to not use it... Nick

My Iskra 175 has its output voltage set at 14.8 volts, and the bank of Trojans it empowers is now 10 years old. The meter being used might be slightly pessimistic so you may be actually getting a slightly higher voltage...

Surely any thermostat that closes a relay would do ? - even the electronic modules that you can get off e-bay for about £10 - Just place the sensor somewhere in the fridge, dial up the temp you want , and let it do its stuff ? (perhaps a thermostat from another fridge make would do ?) Nick

Dry it off, leave open to the air ( presumably its warm and dry where you are ?) and check again in a few hours... if there is evidence of dampness I would be thinking its likely to be a leak...

Agree with the above...Sterling were thought to be OK products for 12 volt stuff but their mains kit was though to be a bit doubtful - this was from a few years back, so things may have changed. Whatever, their stuff is not considered "top notch"... We were at this point approx 10 years ago but last minute cash crisis, having ordered the slightly more expensive Mastervolt 3kW pure sine inverter, meant we couldn't afford it, so went with the Victron 12/3000/100, and it has been fine ever since, so would buy again.. I would definitely not use cheap stuff, especially if leaving it unattended, e.g. at a marina mooring, and on 24/7... The other point I would make is batteries - they make life so much easier if they work well and for a long time - don't discharge more than about 50% and re-charge them ASAP after discharge. We went for Trojans which are heavy duty, flooded lead acid, and are still going strong after just over 9 years, although I am fanatical about looking after them... Having good reliable power at all times rates high on our list of "must haves" - its not difficult to achieve but does require good products and a good understanding of them.. Hope that helps avoid bad decisions..

You can also spray the area with fly spray or similar around the PIR to deter insects / spiders...

I agree, but a method of connecting 4 tails together mechanically and with adequate insulation whilst being able to carry the potential high levels of current would be needed to be used, and a "busbar" is one such way. There are of course others... Nick

To maintain balance between all the pairs, I think you need to have all 3 pairs going to a connecting bar with equal length tails from the positive and negative tails from each pair, then connect to this bank in the middle of this bar. Gibbo makes reference to this and I will try to edit this post with the link Nick

If you are using the switch for charging, is there not a risk of momentarily opening-circuiting the alternator, unless you are only going to operate the switch when the engine is off ? Nick

....and was also suggested in post 3