DanMax&Belle

hitting new highs Alan - thanks again. Dont suppose you know if this model is sold on ebay? Digikey wants to charge additional delivery etc, not used them before so trying to avoid setting up a new account etc.... I did actually find it on ebay but it's coming from Germany so prob makes sense to order it from Digikey... Cheers again https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fan-Dc-Axial-24VDC-80x80x25mm-69-7m3-H-33dBA-Sliding-EE80252S1-000U-A99-Dc/383338364613?hash=item5940bf3ec5:m:mg4XdvwAj-8cbFFfPWOXlxA

erm ok lovely stuff - so would we be safe to assume it would draw less than the 1.8 watts and deliver less than 41 CF on a 12v supply?

Nice one Alan! Is there a 12v option (it's 24) or is it ok to connect this to a 12v supply and get less performance, 20 cubif feet per min would be fine by me esp if it was less than a watt draw Cheers

Thanks Mike, Will follow your advice on the height of the inlet. i have found lots of fans on ebay most of them dont state wattage, would be good to know optimum size and any other features to look for. I want the very lowest wattage and am willing to accept this will only provide a trickle of warm air - on the basis a trickle all night will make a difference to the current 8 degree differential between the 2 rooms.

Hi All, A happy new year to you all! Simple one from me this morning, i need to set up some hot air distribution within my off mooring, CC'ing boat. I plan to run some air ducting from behind the stove to the other side of the bulkhead in a room that struggles to benefit from the heat. I am concerned about drain on the battery so want the absoloute lowest wattage computer fan out there, I am assuming I want a 12v fan (the boat is 12v) rather than a lesser voltage fan and some voltage reducer between the battery and the fan because of inefficiencies (although please do let me know if a 5V fan is the way to go). Thanks in advance!

Are you an ex headmaster blackrose? lol I think you’re right, main takeaways from this thread to anyone that’s planing their boat: 1. Try and make sure your sink can gravity drain out of the boat. 2. If that is not possible then install a separate pump, pipe/hose run, switch and skin fitting for each bathroom application. 3. This removes the need for additional NRVs in the system which can bung up. nice one will do this This was an attempt to cheer up the likes of blackrose

there's no overflow on this sink

noted RE individual switches yes im convinced the air is getting in, in fact you can hear air going past the plug edges - so must be some serious differencial i can put the valve nearer the shower and will definetly try it as my next move - thanks - Sink has about 3 metres of pipe/reinfocred hose shower to the vallve (which is next to) the Y fitting - Shower has around 1.4 metres of pipe/reinforced hose before the valve (which is next to) the Y fitting

yes within about 30cm, im really hoping to not have 2 pumps if possible. Are your 2 pumps on the same switch Alan?

Finishing my fittout - I attached the bathroom sink (which is positioned in such a way as to not allow it to flow out directly to the skin fitting) and the shower to a gulper pump via a Y fitting but it doesnt suck water out of the shower quick enough unless i put the plug in to the sink and even then it's not as quick at removing the water as it was when the sink wasnt connected. Any ideas? its worth mentioning that i thought it was a good idea to attach a one way valve (one of the below) between the Y fitting and the shower/ sink to prevent the sink emptyiing out into the shower - could this be the issue? Thanks valve - https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/Whale-Non-Return-Valve-25mm-28mm-LV1218-MTLV1218.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwpuXpBRAAEiwAyRRPgVe5cUc04DLGzqUhopj1DmRi3fOdb60qVsQfsJU649xFLpV4uptdTxoCIW8QAvD_BwE

Thanks for all your suggestions everyone. Believe it or not it was the flex that was the issue (one common denominator and all that) for some reason it was fine plugged in without a load but when connected tripped everything. Checked wiring a couple of times so wasn’t that. When I changed the flex it all worked. Cheers again.

Hi, Fitting a mains central heating circulation pump on 16amp Shorepower. Every time I’ve connected the pump to power it has tripped the rcd at the bollard - immediately. I was just testing it to see if it would run before sealing and testing the plumping for leaks. I took the unit back to Screwfix and replaced it with a different model. Brought it back and exactly the same thing happened. I can rule out the cable/socket/pump electric connection as I’ve plugged it in without connecting to the pump and no problems. I’ve also changed bollards to my neighbours and the same thing happened. Is the fact I’m trying to operate it dry an issue (surely they’re capable of a few seconds use running dry)? Perhaps central heating circulation pumps don’t work well on 16 amp shorepower? Thanks all.

thanks - will do If anyone has done this or similar please chip in though. Victron do have a provision for a solar panel temp sensor (presumably to enhance the performance of the panel/MPPT system) , i did wonder if I could isolate and display this data through the VRM portal....

Hi All, Does the Victron energy system, particularly the colour control unit (which i have already) allow for additional (non victron, non energy related) input? I'd like to add a temp sensor if possible, perhaps a water tank full/empty sensor later on. It'd be good if it could be read from anywhere, see data points plotted out on a graph and, importantly, is robust and reliable (unlike Arduino/PI setups, which in my experience need regular reboot). Doe anyone know if one can take advantage of APIs, aux plugs, bluetooth/wifi connections etc on the module to link in non victron input? Cheers Dan

Can you all stop flirting on this deadly serious battery/sump box post please?