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Blacking Stove


Androo

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Hi,

 

I am getting sick of blacking my stove & chimney only to find 2 or 3 weeks later the paint starts peeling and rust appears again.

 

I use Hot Spot Heat Resistant Paint and to kill the rust I apply a coat of Vactan rust killer & primer. But, it keeps peeling.

 

Why? Is the rust killer reacting with the paint?

 

I have tried Hotspot blacking polish also but, it doesn't seem to cover very well.I don't let the stove get too hot either.

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Also tried Hammerite Heat Resistant Paint and same thing happens.

Edited by Androo
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I would imagine that the vactan is reacting to the heat, taking the blacking off with it. I have neve heard of derusting and priming a stove flue before blacking it. I always wire brush any loose rust then apply hot spot quite thickly, usually a couple of coats, then buff it up with a dry cloth when it has thouroughly dried. It lasts the whole Winter with no problem, but the rust starts to come rhrough after a few weeks with the fire out. Then it's time to redo it.

 

Roger

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I would imagine that the vactan is reacting to the heat, taking the blacking off with it. I have neve heard of derusting and priming a stove flue before blacking it. I always wire brush any loose rust then apply hot spot quite thickly, usually a couple of coats, then buff it up with a dry cloth when it has thouroughly dried. It lasts the whole Winter with no problem, but the rust starts to come rhrough after a few weeks with the fire out. Then it's time to redo it.

 

Roger

 

Roger, are you talking about the blacking polish? Zebrite is what we used to use on our Franco-Belge, straight onto the metal. I believe Zebrite is no longer available, so I guess this blacking polish is the equivalent

 

Richard

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Roger, are you talking about the blacking polish? Zebrite is what we used to use on our Franco-Belge, straight onto the metal. I believe Zebrite is no longer available, so I guess this blacking polish is the equivalent

 

Richard

Sorry didn't make that clear Richard, Hot Spot is a blacking polish that was recommended to us several years ago and we have used it ever since. It comes in tubes or in a tin and is just applied with a rag or sponge direct to the metal as you said.

 

EDITED TO ADD LINK. Hotspot

 

Roger

Edited by Roger Gunkel
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I brush on Very High Temperature (650 deg) gloss engine paint after a good going over with the wire brush.

Then a low heat to cure the paint (Best done with the doors and windows open). Good for least a years use.

 

Firesprite

 

In the Fens

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Sorry didn't make that clear Richard, Hot Spot is a blacking polish that was recommended to us several years ago and we have used it ever since. It comes in tubes or in a tin and is just applied with a rag or sponge direct to the metal as you said.

 

EDITED TO ADD LINK. Hotspot

 

Roger

 

Thanks Roger. That's the sort of stuff I was expecting. Much simpler than messing about with paint

 

Richard

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Thanks Roger. That's the sort of stuff I was expecting. Much simpler than messing about with paint

 

Richard

 

 

Brilliant stuff, Lynn uses this on the bubble stove, comes up like new. OK it's not rusty but this stuff contains graphite and would be ideal in filling in rust pitting after a good wire brushing and getting it to blend back with the metal.

 

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I have tried Hotspot blacking polish also but, it doesn't seem to cover very well.I don't let the stove get too hot either.

 

That hot spot stuff is total crap.

 

Try Liberon Iron Paste. Great stuff and much more like the old zebrite.

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What do you use if you don't want a shine? I do like the matt black but it needs some furtling now.

Just put the polish on but don't buff it up.

I can't get a shine on mine anyway, well, only on the very smooth bits - I think it needs a few more years.

 

Try it sarah. You won't look back. You can get a really good shine with it - and it lasts.

Where do I get it?

 

I've certainly always been very impressed with their products for wood.

Edited by Chertsey
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When I first moved onto the boat, whatever the previous owner had used would always mark everything that made contact.

 

I use quick drying stove paint, straight onto the steel. Prefer matt finish. Never need to do it that often.

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Midland Chandlers do a paint in a tin - more convenient than a spray.

 

 

Two coats did me. and there's a lot left in the tin for next year

 

 

Did I do something wrong ??

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I would imagine that the vactan is reacting to the heat, taking the blacking off with it. I have neve heard of derusting and priming a stove flue before blacking it. I always wire brush any loose rust then apply hot spot quite thickly, usually a couple of coats, then buff it up with a dry cloth when it has thouroughly dried. It lasts the whole Winter with no problem, but the rust starts to come rhrough after a few weeks with the fire out. Then it's time to redo it.

 

Roger

 

I think you could be right about the vactan reacting with the heat. I'll wait a while when the stove isn't in use and rub it down and try a polish.

 

Thanks

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We've just used "Liberon Iron Paste" and it was very easy to apply - not lit the fire yet though....However I noticed (after we had used it) that on the tin it says not suitable for wood stoves (or something similar).....wonder if anyone has had any issues.

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Roger, are you talking about the blacking polish? Zebrite is what we used to use on our Franco-Belge, straight onto the metal. I believe Zebrite is no longer available, so I guess this blacking polish is the equivalent

 

Richard

 

I use a blacking polish that I get from Amazon for not a lot of money, it claims to be the same as Zebrite and as far as I can see it is , (just like me Mam used when I was a kid)

 

Phil

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