Dorman Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Ive finally losing patience with my tunnel light! It uses a projecter bulb ----24v 150w OEM Projector or Disco Bulb A1/216 FCS G6.35or bulb There is a big fat cable to the light from the fuse board which nevers get warm but when ever we turn on the light l have to fiddle with the bulb (using tissue paper) to get it work and the pronges seem to discolour and need cleaning up ever so often. It sometimes seem to lose contact with its ceramic holder in tunnels causing the kids to laugh but me panic as l rush down the boat. Ive now stripped it all down and found a rather frazzled live feed connector from the fat cable to the thin one that feeds the bulb which could be the wire overheating? Its 24volt bulb but is it really suitable for use eg AC24-DC24 boat electrics? The light fitting suits the boat and is well bolted down on a purpose made pole so lm now thinking of changing the bulb and bulb holder to a Searolf unit as below;- Hi Simon, We don't have a direct replacement bayonet bulb with that brilliance, but we do have this bulb http://searolf.com/page35.html. The Cool White version is equivalent in light output to an 80 watt bulb, but only draws 3.5 watts approximately of power. If it will fit your tunnel light we have adaptors and bulb holders here http://searolf.com/page19.html For your interior cabin lighting we have many options http://searolf.com/page6.html , B22 Bus Bulbs, LED Bulbs, Light Bars, and the G4, MR11 and MR16 halogen replacements are all available to suit 24volt systems. Regards, Angie SEAROLF LED Ltd www.searolf.com Tel. 05602 243142 Does anyone think the bulb will be good enough or should l cutback the old connections which could have caused my problems and put a new projector bulb in the existing set up and hope for the best??? What about another sort of set up which can take vibrations etc??? I get scarred in damp dark places and got to do the Netherton in 2 weeks Thanks you all. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Possibly not a helpful comment, but as someone regularly blinded by what I consider unsuitable tunnel lights, 150 watts sounds a bit of a nightmare, unless it is heavily directed away from anyone coming the otherway. 55 watts is usually overkill, so 150 watts being nearly three times that figure sounds more like stage lighting, and potentially very distressing to anyone needing to pass you. (Would you want the lights of typical boats approaching you turned up three-fold ?). On the other hand, I can't see any lamp that only uses 3.5 watts (which is peanuts) giving an output equivalent to 80 watts. That just sounds like hogwash. If they were available, why would we not all be using them as internal cabin lights for excellent illumination, with almost no battery drain ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Possibly not a helpful comment, but as someone regularly blinded by what I consider unsuitable tunnel lights, 150 watts sounds a bit of a nightmare, unless it is heavily directed away from anyone coming the otherway. 55 watts is usually overkill, so 150 watts being nearly three times that figure sounds more like stage lighting, and potentially very distressing to anyone needing to pass you. (Would you want the lights of typical boats approaching you turned up three-fold ?). On the other hand, I can't see any lamp that only uses 3.5 watts (which is peanuts) giving an output equivalent to 80 watts. That just sounds like hogwash. If they were available, why would we not all be using them as internal cabin lights for excellent illumination, with almost no battery drain ? Must say I agree with Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorman Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) Possibly not a helpful comment, but as someone regularly blinded by what I consider unsuitable tunnel lights, 150 watts sounds a bit of a nightmare, unless it is heavily directed away from anyone coming the otherway. 55 watts is usually overkill, so 150 watts being nearly three times that figure sounds more like stage lighting, and potentially very distressing to anyone needing to pass you. (Would you want the lights of typical boats approaching you turned up three-fold ?). On the other hand, I can't see any lamp that only uses 3.5 watts (which is peanuts) giving an output equivalent to 80 watts. That just sounds like hogwash. If they were available, why would we not all be using them as internal cabin lights for excellent illumination, with almost no battery drain ? I always direct it at the wall--hence why lm questioning its suitabilty Edited July 12, 2010 by Dorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelaway Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi I would suggest replacing the whole lot with a standard 55W/24V truck driving light. Flood type - not spot Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Schweizer Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 I also agree with Alan. I find that my pre-war Lucas "King of the Road" Fog lamp powered by a 40watt asymmetric tungsten bulb to be perfectly adequate. (pointed at the Tunnel roof!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) A fog light is by far the best type. BW regs used to insist on it. But they are really difficult to buy these days (especially if you only want to buy one, not two. Halfords even told me it was illegal to sell them singly). Edited July 12, 2010 by Keeping Up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 A fog light is by far the best type. BW regs used to insist on it. But they are really difficult to buy these days (especially if you only want to buy one, not two. Halfords even told me it was illegal to sell them singly). Some chandlers have been enterprising enough to buy them in packs of two, but sell them as singles. (They seem prepared to risk prosecution, or are unaware of the legalities, it seems!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 My boat has a "spot" lamp as opposed to a "fog" lamp (55W) and TBH it is not that good. I intend to try a fog lamp as most people do find them better. Not sure that more than 55W is necessary though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Possibly not a helpful comment, but as someone regularly blinded by what I consider unsuitable tunnel lights, 150 watts sounds a bit of a nightmare, unless it is heavily directed away from anyone coming the otherway. 55 watts is usually overkill, so 150 watts being nearly three times that figure sounds more like stage lighting, and potentially very distressing to anyone needing to pass you. (Would you want the lights of typical boats approaching you turned up three-fold ?). I have a Francis 11" searchlight (similar to those fitted to the old Dennis fire appliances). There are quite a few of these in use on narrowboats today. The original bulb was a 6 volt 72 watt tungsten lamp, but most have been converted to 12 volt 100 watt halogen. I can feel hairs rising on people's backs .......BUT ........... the beam is adjustable from fine to wide angle and the mounting allows full movement of direction of aim. If used sensibly, they cause far less dazzle to oncoming boaters than a fixed light of lower wattage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Some chandlers have been enterprising enough to buy them in packs of two, but sell them as singles. (They seem prepared to risk prosecution, or are unaware of the legalities, it seems!). On the contrary, they are aware of the legalities. It is Halfords that invent them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Nibble Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 If you have a frazzled connector then almost certainly the problem is a poor connection. I find the lucar push on blade type connectors are prone to this. Re make the connection firmly ensuring clean bright metal and a good new tight connector and fit a lower wattage lamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Ive finally losing patience with my tunnel light! I get scarred in damp dark places and got to do the Netherton in 2 weeks Thanks you all. Simon Having gone through Braunston tunnel, stood on Amazon's front deck, holding a 110V halogen work light, next to a very hot generator, I'm pleased to hear her lighting arrangements have improved, somewhat. The scars do fade, after a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 ...(pointed at the Tunnel roof!) Thats the most important thing isnt it. - We've got a 50w fairly boring durite incandescent lump that gets put on for tunnels. Produces a nice wide flat 'foglight' type beam. - LEDS are cock on, and often far more durable then filament lamps but i also agree 3.5 watts seems a little optimistic to light a tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) A while back someone on here recommended a pair of Ring Automotive rectangular fog lamps anlong with a link to a supplier for under £20 inc delivery. Seemed like a good idea, so I bought a pair. They work well, and I now have a complete spare lamp. Tony edit to say that Ebay has some right now: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories Edited July 14, 2010 by WotEver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat & Frog Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I was planning on fitting a car reversing lamp, but reading this it may not be bright enough. Thoght it would be good as gives a fair spread of light. Plan was to suppliment it with a 1 mil candle power torch http://www.cluson.co.uk/productsMain.aspx?CI_ID=5 which is 12v and i can put an accessory socket in the instrument panel. This way hopefully can see and highlight anything we want to without blinding anyone (unless they have too bright tunnel light !!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Years ago one hire firm had tunnel lights that dipped upwards. Me, I aim mine more at the roof than in front. Trouble is the buggers coming the other way don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Years ago one hire firm had tunnel lights that dipped upwards. Me, I aim mine more at the roof than in front. Trouble is the buggers coming the other way don't. What many people don't seem to realise is that brighter is not necessarily better. The brighter the light the more likely people coming the other way are dazzled and will bash into you - probably the opposite of what you hope to achieve. 30W is quite adequate preferably directed slightly upwards on to the tunnel roof. I'd like to see a maximum wattage in the BSC one day. Paul H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykaskin Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 What many people don't seem to realise is that brighter is not necessarily better.Paul H I passed a bloke in Braunston tunnel who's headlight illuminated the other end! You could see for miles looking away from it, and see nothing going towards it. I would have blamed him if I managed to hit him with my then 40 ton loaded narrowboat! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I was planning on fitting a car reversing lamp, but reading this it may not be bright enough. Thoght it would be good as gives a fair spread of light. Plan was to suppliment it with a 1 mil candle power torch http://www.cluson.co.uk/productsMain.aspx?CI_ID=5 which is 12v and i can put an accessory socket in the instrument panel. This way hopefully can see and highlight anything we want to without blinding anyone (unless they have too bright tunnel light !!!) The spread of light probably means that the reversing light would dazzle people more than a brighter light with a better light pattern would. A spotlight should point upwards at the roof, or a foglamp should point ever-so-slightly downwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 The spread of light probably means that the reversing light would dazzle people more than a brighter light with a better light pattern would. A spotlight should point upwards at the roof, or a foglamp should point ever-so-slightly downwards. When I use to ride a bike I had a 3 volt 1.5 amp cycle lamp and did about 10 MPH on lanes with pothole and bends. Now I have a Narrowboat that does 4 MPH down almost straight tunnels with no potholes and I have 55 watts at 12 volts lamp. Next time I go to Newbold Tunnel I will have to walk through and look back at the boat to see if it dazzles people. That's the biggest problem, checking if your lamp is set right. I have never done it, has anyone else ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 A spotlight should point upwards at the roof, or a foglamp should point ever-so-slightly downwards. Or mount the foglamp upside down so that it too points upwards. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Or mount the foglamp upside down so that it too points upwards. Tony Except it would probably fill up with water when it rained, as they usually have a drain hole at the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Except it would probably fill up with water when it rained, as they usually have a drain hole at the bottom. I have known people to use 2CV headlight with the inards turner up side down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semitrad Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I passed a bloke in Braunston tunnel who's headlight illuminated the other end! You could see for miles looking away from it, and see nothing going towards it. I would have blamed him if I managed to hit him with my then 40 ton loaded narrowboat! Mike I too have been blinded in Braunston tunnel, possibly by the same boat? It really is a nasty experience, with nowhere to look except back, unable to shade the eyes or make any decision about which way to steer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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