Speedwheel setups?

[Liam]

I've posted in the For Sale & Wanted section about a replacement Lister Petter type throttle lever to fix the duff one on the boat but I'm also wondering on changing over to a speedwheel arrangement. I've steered a couple of boats with a wheel and must say I do prefer it. Does anybody have any pictures of their set up?

 

I have a HA2 so I'd need to convert the turning of the speedwheel under the hatches to a lift up and down postion in the engine room.

 

Thanks

[DHutch]

 

 

To go faster/slower

wheel turns

turns shaft

shaft has thread end

'A' is threaded onto shaft

rotating shaft causes A to move alone shaft

A moving along shaft rotates the L shaped bell crank about B

causing C to move up and down

causing D to move up and down

make engine go Vrummmm

 

Linkage could go direct onto engine and push the rack open, but assuming the vertical linkage is fairly slender, you might keep the rocker on the bed plate and attach onto that, such that the linkage is in tension, and pulling up on the rocker as the cable currently and that in turn pulls the rack down and open.

 

And at the end, if your really lucky, clockwise if more, and undoing it is less!

 

 

 

Daniel

[Smelly]

 

make engine go Vrummmm

 

Daniel

 

Shouldn't it go "bob bob bob"? Or maybe "bobobobob"?

 

If you want to spend money Charles Mills a.k.a "Classic Maritime Diesels" used to make kits. Prolly still knock one up...

[ditchcrawler]

I used the screw from an imitation Workmate with a nice square cut thread and also the travelling threaded block that normally causes the Workmate table to close. It looked a better bet than the normal G clamp modification.

One well known builder of modern tugs uses bits from a wheel brace to change direction of movement.

Tony Redshaw makes a nice unit,but it will cost you.

[DHutch]

Shouldn't it go "bob bob bob"? Or maybe "bobobobob"?

 

The best sounds are is transition noise as it takes up its new speed.

 

bob.....bob.....bur...bob..bob.bobobobob...................bob.....bob.....bob..

 

 

 

With liams current cable operated system i could quite happily spend all day twiddling with the cable running it up and down the rev range.

[Smelly]

With liams current cable operated system i could quite happily spend all day twiddling with the cable running it up and down the rev range.

 

 

I had a bike gear changer very similar to the arrangement you put up in FS&W on Southam. Great fun when your coat caught the little handly thing as you stood up after changing gear, especially if you were reversing. VRUUM indeedy went the 3.5l monster.

[Timleech]

I've posted in the For Sale & Wanted section about a replacement Lister Petter type throttle lever to fix the duff one on the boat but I'm also wondering on changing over to a speedwheel arrangement. I've steered a couple of boats with a wheel and must say I do prefer it. Does anybody have any pictures of their set up?

 

I have a HA2 so I'd need to convert the turning of the speedwheel under the hatches to a lift up and down postion in the engine room.

 

Thanks

 

Liam

What is your present arrangement? Is it one of the old Lister controls with a cylindrical bronze housing (originally designed for rod control, including stop)? I think I've got some bits of one of those, if yours is giving trouble it might be possible to sort it out.

How is your control linked to the engine? Do you have a pulley on the engine beds?

 

 

 

 

Edit to add that I could make you up a speedwheel control if you don't find anything to suit.

 

Tim

Edited April 9, 2010 by Timleech

[Liam]

Hi Tim,

 

I should be coming past you at some point during midday Saturday.

[Chris Pink]

I used the screw from an imitation Workmate with a nice square cut thread and also the travelling threaded block that normally causes the Workmate table to close. It looked a better bet than the normal G clamp modification.

One well known builder of modern tugs uses bits from a wheel brace to change direction of movement.

Tony Redshaw makes a nice unit,but it will cost you.

 

I challenged my son to make a stylish one from a g-clamp by threatening to buy one of Tony Redshaw's rather nice looking brass affairs.

 

He's done a pretty good job and he made the valid point that those brass fittings would look a mite too posh in our engine room.

 

The amount of travel on the square thread is only around 1-2".

[Gibbo]

 

Then 15mm copper pipe back to the wheel. UJs at both ends, adaptors between UJs and pipe knocked up on (what can best be described as) a child's (Clarke) lathe.

 

Cheers Baldock

[Laurence Hogg]

I've posted in the For Sale & Wanted section about a replacement Lister Petter type throttle lever to fix the duff one on the boat but I'm also wondering on changing over to a speedwheel arrangement. I've steered a couple of boats with a wheel and must say I do prefer it. Does anybody have any pictures of their set up?

 

I have a HA2 so I'd need to convert the turning of the speedwheel under the hatches to a lift up and down postion in the engine room.

 

Thanks

 

Greaves Cotton in India (Formerly Ruston & Hornsby) still make (did make) these Liam. they have a operations office in Manchester.

 

JAMES GREAVES & COMPANY,

G.P.O. Box : 406, Brazennose House,

Brazennose Street,

Manchester M60 2JA UNITED KINGDOM

Phone : (44-161) 834-0991

Fax : (44-161) 832-0753

E-mail : george.morrissey@jgreaves.co.uk

 

They were fitted to the David Brown gearbox levers on their YD, YW and other engines.

Edited April 9, 2010 by Laurence Hogg

[casper ghost]

Throttle set up i'm ok with on my engine as it has a twist throttle, but I haven't yet looked into how to do the gear change, especially as I have a PRM box, which should really use a cable.

[Timleech]

Hi Tim,

 

I should be coming past you at some point during midday Saturday.

 

I'll probably be grovelling in the back of a Springer, trying to re-align the engine

 

Tim

[DHutch]

The only bit of that that is to me not totally obvious, is how the l-shaped bellcrank attaches to the steel threaded follower in such a way as to incorporate the fact that the end of the bell crank will be moving in an ark and the leadscrew follower clearly moving linearly along the thread.

 

There are a dosen ways of doing it, from a simple peg in a slot, through taking advantage of the flex in the rod by holding it further away, and intermediate link, or almost anythign else. But if i was knocked one up tomorrow im not sure what i would go for. I guess the formar is the most common, but interested in what is actaully usally done. Clearly it wants to be fairly nicely done like the rest of it, to give the wheel a smooth and positive feel while maintaining accuracy of control and a sensable number of turns 'lock to lock'. Like, maybe, four turns to flat out? Given its pretty much all got to come off and go back on again in order to stop or manouver .

 

 

 

Daniel

[Gibbo]

The only bit of that that is to me not totally obvious, is how the l-shaped bellcrank attaches to the steel threaded follower in such a way as to incorporate the fact that the end of the bell crank will be moving in an ark and the leadscrew follower clearly moving linearly along the thread.

 

There are a dosen ways of doing it, from a simple peg in a slot, through taking advantage of the flex in the rod by holding it further away, and intermediate link, or almost anythign else. But if i was knocked one up tomorrow im not sure what i would go for. I guess the formar is the most common, but interested in what is actaully usally done. Clearly it wants to be fairly nicely done like the rest of it, to give the wheel a smooth and positive feel while maintaining accuracy of control and a sensable number of turns 'lock to lock'. Like, maybe, four turns to flat out? Given its pretty much all got to come off and go back on again in order to stop or manouver .

 

The bold one. The peg is in the brass L shape, the slot in the threaded square block.

 

You can adjust (on installation) how many turns from tickover to full by simply fitting the engine linkage anywhere along the length. I've got mine at about 4.5 turns (IIRC) which feels about right for me. I suppose that bit's purely a personal choice really. I didn't pay much attention to that part. I fitted it, didn't feel right, moved it a bit, that was OK so I left it. I suppose even that bit could be made "user adjustable" with a "sliding fitment" arrangement.

 

I guess you'd get used to any number of turns as long as it wasn't ridiculous.

[zenataomm]

This the affair that kept my HA2 happy............ and thanks for the opportunity to play with MS paint it's quite an underrated application.

 

[luctor et emergo]

This the affair that kept my HA2 happy............ and thanks for the opportunity to play with MS paint it's quite an underrated application.

 

 

I've seen this set up in a boat I looked at. Simple to build, but not as nice a 'feature' as Gibbo's.

[Gibbo]

This the affair that kept my HA2 happy............ and thanks for the opportunity to play with MS paint it's quite an underrated application.

 

What happens if it sticks at the engine end? Is there no active "pulling it back" feature?

[Chris Pink]

The only bit of that that is to me not totally obvious, is how the l-shaped bellcrank attaches to the steel threaded follower in such a way as to incorporate the fact that the end of the bell crank will be moving in an ark and the leadscrew follower clearly moving linearly along the thread.

 

good point

 

that has me had me looking at my GU version which has an extra arm between the follower and the bell crank so the arm pushes the bell crank.

 

The one in the picture, at a guess would need a slot on the reverse of the follower.

[zenataomm]

Good point, however after 25 years of owning that boat I never had a stuck throttle. The vertical link down t'engine was a solid steel rod.

The horizontal leg of the L shaped bit was longer than the vertical side so its inclination was to pull everything shut.

 

I also like the look of Gibbo's mechaninsimisim especially as I no longer polish brass.... I just paint it

[Speedwheel]

Set up? Who's set me up?

 

I prefer the use of a worm gear setup but it seems to be something people rarely use.

 

I'll see if I can find some pics.

Edited April 9, 2010 by Speedwheel

[DHutch]

What happens if it sticks at the engine end? Is there no active "pulling it back" feature?

Cant see why it should.

- Liams current setup, with a pull cable, doesnt offer any way of shutting it down.

 

 

Set up? Who's set me up?

Hehe!

 

 

Daniel

[Timleech]

Cant see why it should.

- Liams current setup, with a pull cable, doesnt offer any way of shutting it down.

 

 

Daniel

 

Perfectly normal with that type of engine.

The original HA control did include a 'stop' feature, but it was really designed to be bolted direct to the engine with rod operation and I don't recall ever seeing one set up that way for remote operation.

 

Tim

[Speedwheel]

Like this:-

 

Best pic I can find.

 

[DHutch]

The original HA control did include a 'stop' feature, but it was really designed to be bolted direct to the engine with rod operation and I don't recall ever seeing one set up that way for remote operation.

Yeah, its had that too, but as said, not remotely operatable.

 

Like this:-

Best pic I can find.

Looks good to me.

 

I guess the vertical shaft seen feeding into it is driven from the wheel via a pair of bevel gears (which could have a decent ratio between them, such as a handdrill) and then operates the output shaft horizontally controlling the rack that way. Although presumably it could also be bolted to the roof the other way up from seen also, driven directly, such that the worm wheel on the end of the shaft raises the threaded part seen coming towards us, which then operates the engine.

 

I guess using that would depend a lot on being able to buy one, where a leadscrew type can by realy make from a cut up G clamp and a bit of dicking about with a mig welder.

 

 

Daniel