Gas-free boat … any good for Constant Cruising

[Didne]

2 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

How much is the owner asking,Have you a link to it? 

£72k

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

28 minutes ago, Didne said:

£72k

Wow, that’s a decent amount to spend on your first boat, I’m sure there’s more suitable boats out there for your needs and spending the amount of money to get everything sorted would not make it a viable investment at the purchase price IMO.
 I think it may well be on sale for a while and will be reduced as what you’ve described it’s not really a practical boat, compared to most.

 

Edited October 30, 2023 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[JungleJames]

4 hours ago, Tony1 said:

 

To be honest James, introducing the idea of lithium batteries does complicate the question a bit.

But that said, if I were a newbie I would be looking to swap to lithium asap anyway- regardless of anything else I did with the boat. I think given that they'll probably last 15-20 years, they are becoming competitive on price with lead acids. Its kind of a no-brainer really. 

And as a liveaboard, if I were the OP I would automatically plan on upgrading to at least 1000w of panels- at the least.

 

I have 1400 watts of panels, and in the summer they give enough energy for most cooking, but I choose to use the excess solar power for heating water, which saves running the engine when not cruising. 

So my personal preference would be to use the solar for hot water, but to still to get a gas cooker installed. And to get lithium batteries regardless.

It was said further up the thread, contingency systems are great on a boat.

There's a cost involved as well- using the engine to generate the charge for cooking (which you'd have to do in winter) would use a lot of diesel, and add many running hours to the engine- so then you've got more frequent services and more engine wear- which you can avoid by installing gas. 

But that's only my personal take on it, others will have different priorities etc. 

 

 

 

 

 

Ah, hence why I said it depends how much the boat moves. 

 

If a real cruiser, then in summer, excess solar for cooking, Eberspacher or engine for hot water, engine to charge batteries.

 

In winter, some sort of generator may be best, no matter whether you are gas free or not. An engine won't thank you for all those idling hours. Unless moored up in a marina with plug in facilities.

 

Then again, my ideal spec would see gas as a bit of a waste. 

 

I actually saw lithium as making life easier, rather than complicating things. It saves the need for gas if everything else is right.

 

Anyways, it really depends right now what batteries the boat already has. Then the OP can investigate everything

[Tony1]

1 hour ago, JungleJames said:

Ah, hence why I said it depends how much the boat moves. 

 

If a real cruiser, then in summer, excess solar for cooking, Eberspacher or engine for hot water, engine to charge batteries.

 

In winter, some sort of generator may be best, no matter whether you are gas free or not. An engine won't thank you for all those idling hours. Unless moored up in a marina with plug in facilities.

 

Then again, my ideal spec would see gas as a bit of a waste. 

 

I actually saw lithium as making life easier, rather than complicating things. It saves the need for gas if everything else is right.

 

Anyways, it really depends right now what batteries the boat already has. Then the OP can investigate everything

 

What I meant by lithium complicating things was that you then start to think about where your money will be best spent.

For example, you might spend 2k on a lithium battery bank (plus suitable charging system)- but if cash is limited, that 2k might be better spent on the gas install, and postpone the lithiums for a while.

But tbh, ideally I'd want both things. 

But you're right that everything depends on the OPs future cruising pattern. 

My guess was that with a daughter (who would be of working age), there might be a need to base the boat within a say 30 mile cruising radius for much of the time, to stay within reach of work, friends and family. 

With that as the operating scenario, you would be looking at a pattern of moving the boat (and thus running the engine) once in every 5 or 6 days. Maybe even once every 2 weeks.

For all the other days you still need hot water, and you cant really use the Eberspacher in summer for hot water- the boat would get unbearably hot by the time the water is heated up.

I find the CH is best in say April/May and then Sept, to take the morning chill off the boat without having to fire up the SF stove. But even then, most mornings 30 mins of the Eberspacher is enough to warm the boat up, which isn't enough time to heat the water.

So for me personally, the ideal solution is solar for hot water between May and Sept, and gas for cooking. 

You could probably fit up to 2kw of panels on a narrowboat roof if you really pushed it, so that might give enough solar power for cooking and hot water during summer. But you still need a solution for the cooking from say mid-Sept to mid-April.

The engine does have that travelpower setup, so it would charge lithium batteries very quickly for normal use, and that could in theory power a cooker. But if you wanted to provide enough charge for cooking as well as fridge/laptops etc, that might double or treble your engine running hours.

And I dont think a genny is the best solution. It seems daft to be fetching petrol from nearby garages in 15L containers, and using a genny to charge the batteries at say 50 amps (so maybe five hours genny running each day) , when the travel power will charge them so much faster. 

That travelpower would work really well with lithiums, and if you use gas for cooking, you wouldnt need to overuse it. You could stick to an hour of engine running each day in winter.

I just dont currently see electricity as a practicable energy source for all of the cooking (although a kettle, toaster and microwave work fine), with or without lithiums. The real challenge for electric powered cooking is to get enough charge into the batteries in cooler months (plus a big enough inverter to power the cooker). 

In winter, the added engine running hours to charge batteries for cooking, and the extra diesel fuel used, would probably make it uneconomical when compared to gas. I think it would be a very brave step for the OP to even consider using an electric cooker without shore power.

Sincere apologies if this sounds harsh James, as I'm sure you mean well, but I don't think it would be wise for members here to suggest that a newbie might be ok using an electric cooker on a cruising boat. 

If permanently on shore power, thats a different ball game, but my assumption was the OP will not be based in a marina. 

 

 

Didne, this thread from June might give you some more info about the major challenges of a gas-free boat:

 

 

Edited October 30, 2023 by Tony1

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

8 hours ago, Tony1 said:

 

What I meant by lithium complicating things was that you then start to think about where your money will be best spent.

For example, you might spend 2k on a lithium battery bank (plus suitable charging system)- but if cash is limited, that 2k might be better spent on the gas install, and postpone the lithiums for a while.

But tbh, ideally I'd want both things. 

But you're right that everything depends on the OPs future cruising pattern. 

My guess was that with a daughter (who would be of working age), there might be a need to base the boat within a say 30 mile cruising radius for much of the time, to stay within reach of work, friends and family. 

With that as the operating scenario, you would be looking at a pattern of moving the boat (and thus running the engine) once in every 5 or 6 days. Maybe even once every 2 weeks.

For all the other days you still need hot water, and you cant really use the Eberspacher in summer for hot water- the boat would get unbearably hot by the time the water is heated up.

I find the CH is best in say April/May and then Sept, to take the morning chill off the boat without having to fire up the SF stove. But even then, most mornings 30 mins of the Eberspacher is enough to warm the boat up, which isn't enough time to heat the water.

So for me personally, the ideal solution is solar for hot water between May and Sept, and gas for cooking. 

You could probably fit up to 2kw of panels on a narrowboat roof if you really pushed it, so that might give enough solar power for cooking and hot water during summer. But you still need a solution for the cooking from say mid-Sept to mid-April.

The engine does have that travelpower setup, so it would charge lithium batteries very quickly for normal use, and that could in theory power a cooker. But if you wanted to provide enough charge for cooking as well as fridge/laptops etc, that might double or treble your engine running hours.

And I dont think a genny is the best solution. It seems daft to be fetching petrol from nearby garages in 15L containers, and using a genny to charge the batteries at say 50 amps (so maybe five hours genny running each day) , when the travel power will charge them so much faster. 

That travelpower would work really well with lithiums, and if you use gas for cooking, you wouldnt need to overuse it. You could stick to an hour of engine running each day in winter.

I just dont currently see electricity as a practicable energy source for all of the cooking (although a kettle, toaster and microwave work fine), with or without lithiums. The real challenge for electric powered cooking is to get enough charge into the batteries in cooler months (plus a big enough inverter to power the cooker). 

In winter, the added engine running hours to charge batteries for cooking, and the extra diesel fuel used, would probably make it uneconomical when compared to gas. I think it would be a very brave step for the OP to even consider using an electric cooker without shore power.

Sincere apologies if this sounds harsh James, as I'm sure you mean well, but I don't think it would be wise for members here to suggest that a newbie might be ok using an electric cooker on a cruising boat. 

If permanently on shore power, thats a different ball game, but my assumption was the OP will not be based in a marina. 

 

 

Didne, this thread from June might give you some more info about the major challenges of a gas-free boat:

 

 

  I suspect the OP hasn’t got a clue about what your rambling on about and hopefully she’ll not spend too much time trying to fathom it all out and will use the time to look at more suitable boats. I’m still trying to see the “Daughter” relevance in all of this? The boat in this thread is for sale at £72K so @Didne is obviously doing something right if that’s her budget, I doubt the majority of people replying to this Post have a boat of that value😂

Edited October 31, 2023 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[JungleJames]

5 hours ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

Wow, that’s a decent amount to spend on your first boat, I’m sure there’s more suitable boats out there for your needs and spending the amount of money to get everything sorted would not make it a viable investment at the purchase price IMO.
 I think it may well be on sale for a while and will be reduced as what you’ve described it’s not really a practical boat, compared to most.

 

Yeah at that price, I'd agree. It'd have to be a stonking nice boat to consider at that price.

Although we still don't know for sure how practical it is. Too much info missing.

1 hour ago, Tony1 said:

 

What I meant by lithium complicating things was that you then start to think about where your money will be best spent.

For example, you might spend 2k on a lithium battery bank (plus suitable charging system)- but if cash is limited, that 2k might be better spent on the gas install, and postpone the lithiums for a while.

But tbh, ideally I'd want both things. 

But you're right that everything depends on the OPs future cruising pattern. 

My guess was that with a daughter (who would be of working age), there might be a need to base the boat within a say 30 mile cruising radius for much of the time, to stay within reach of work, friends and family. 

With that as the operating scenario, you would be looking at a pattern of moving the boat (and thus running the engine) once in every 5 or 6 days. Maybe even once every 2 weeks.

For all the other days you still need hot water, and you cant really use the Eberspacher in summer for hot water- the boat would get unbearably hot by the time the water is heated up.

I find the CH is best in say April/May and then Sept, to take the morning chill off the boat without having to fire up the SF stove. But even then, most mornings 30 mins of the Eberspacher is enough to warm the boat up, which isn't enough time to heat the water.

So for me personally, the ideal solution is solar for hot water between May and Sept, and gas for cooking. 

You could probably fit up to 2kw of panels on a narrowboat roof if you really pushed it, so that might give enough solar power for cooking and hot water during summer. But you still need a solution for the cooking from say mid-Sept to mid-April.

The engine does have that travelpower setup, so it would charge lithium batteries very quickly for normal use, and that could in theory power a cooker. But if you wanted to provide enough charge for cooking as well as fridge/laptops etc, that might double or treble your engine running hours.

And I dont think a genny is the best solution. It seems daft to be fetching petrol from nearby garages in 15L containers, and using a genny to charge the batteries at say 50 amps (so maybe five hours genny running each day) , when the travel power will charge them so much faster. 

That travelpower would work really well with lithiums, and if you use gas for cooking, you wouldnt need to overuse it. You could stick to an hour of engine running each day in winter.

I just dont currently see electricity as a practicable energy source for all of the cooking (although a kettle, toaster and microwave work fine), with or without lithiums. The real challenge for electric powered cooking is to get enough charge into the batteries in cooler months (plus a big enough inverter to power the cooker). 

In winter, the added engine running hours to charge batteries for cooking, and the extra diesel fuel used, would probably make it uneconomical when compared to gas. I think it would be a very brave step for the OP to even consider using an electric cooker without shore power.

Sincere apologies if this sounds harsh James, as I'm sure you mean well, but I don't think it would be wise for members here to suggest that a newbie might be ok using an electric cooker on a cruising boat. 

If permanently on shore power, thats a different ball game, but my assumption was the OP will not be based in a marina. 

 

 

Didne, this thread from June might give you some more info about the major challenges of a gas-free boat:

 

 

On a real cruiser boat, I still think gas free is doable, but agree to disagree. If you are cruising all day, that's a lot of charge into lithium batteries.

I just didn't want the OP to straight out dismiss the boat as too many dismissed it with only half the info.

 

On a continuous moored boat (on a tow path), That is a very different matter. 

[Alan de Enfield]

9 hours ago, Tony1 said:

For all the other days you still need hot water, and you cant really use the Eberspacher in summer for hot water- the boat would get unbearably hot by the time the water is heated up.

 

Our NB was 'plumbed' so the Eber could provide hot water &/or Central heating.

 

Apart from that, you are correct it would be ridiculous to have to have the CH on in Summer.

[Tony Brooks]

9 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Apart from that, you are correct it would be ridiculous to have to have the CH on in Summer.

 

Only if there was no means of isolating the radiator circuit, so the calorifier circuit worked on its own, however that sidesteps problems that just heating a calorifier might cause with the boiler if the users do not understand the potential and act accordingly.

[IanD]

53 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Only if there was no means of isolating the radiator circuit, so the calorifier circuit worked on its own, however that sidesteps problems that just heating a calorifier might cause with the boiler if the users do not understand the potential and act accordingly.

 

With many older Webasto/Eberspacher heaters which are basically on/off, using them for hot water only doesn't use up enough heat so they cycle on and off all the time, which can be bad for reliability.

 

Some of the newest ones can throttle the power down well below full output, and these should be OK to use for hot water only.

[Alan de Enfield]

51 minutes ago, IanD said:

With many older Webasto/Eberspacher heaters which are basically on/off, using them for hot water only doesn't use up enough heat so they cycle on and off all the time, which can be bad for reliability.

 

Do you have any personal experience of this as it just seems to have become 'internet law'.

 

I have had some form of Eber or Webby on my boats for much of the past 40 years and have never had these reported 'reliability' or 'carbon build up' problems.

 

We will go to the boat and switch on the Eber/Webby on arrival and it will not be switched off until we leave the boat some 3 to 6 months later, in the Summer it will be heating the calorifier only, & in cooler times the central heating will be switched on (or the SF stove lit) - the thermostat is set and the unit switches on and off as required.

 

That is ACTUAL experience of the units, both 'water heating' and 'blown air'.

 

On dewinterising our current cruiser in March I tried the Eber (Blown Air), it had not actually been used for the previous 2 years due to Summer only use) and it fired up first time and stayed on for about 2 days happy cycling from high to low to off to high to .....................

[IanD]

6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Do you have any personal experience of this as it just seems to have become 'internet law'.

 

I have had some form of Eber or Webby on my boats for much of the past 40 years and have never had these reported 'reliability' or 'carbon build up' problems.

 

We will go to the boat and switch on the Eber/Webby on arrival and it will not be switched off until we leave the boat some 3 to 6 months later, in the Summer it will be heating the calorifier only, & in cooler times the central heating will be switched on (or the SF stove lit) - the thermostat is set and the unit switches on and off as required.

 

That is ACTUAL experience of the units, both 'water heating' and 'blown air'.

 

On dewinterising our current cruiser in March I tried the Eber (Blown Air), it had not actually been used for the previous 2 years due to Summer only use) and it fired up first time and stayed on for about 2 days happy cycling from high to low to off to high to .....................

 

I'm simply going by many reports over the years of boaters reporting problems with often-cycled heaters, and the fact that the manufacturers specifically recommend that the older ones should not be used like this -- which is why I said "can be bad for reliability".

 

Your personal experience as one person (or mine, if I had it...) doesn't disprove this, just because you didn't have a problem doesn't mean that nobody else had one... 😉

Edited October 31, 2023 by IanD

[Ex Brummie]

On 30/10/2023 at 09:25, Tony Brooks said:

From what I read and see, it seems drip feed (pot burner) diesel stoves like the Bubbles need a longer flue than can be accommodated on most narrowboats to get optimum combustion, especially at higher outputs. It also seems the burner pots need very regular cleaning, especially of the almost hidden air holes.

Bubble stoves and the like can easily be flued efficiently in narrowboats with an outside insulated flue, and the ' very regular cleaning' is no more than is required than ash emptying and firebox cleaning of a solid fuel or wood burning stove. The almost hidden air holes will not block before the fumes of poor combustion will have forced the boat to be evacuated, and with continual use, it is advisable to scrape the base of the burner pot. 

A drip feed stove will not gum up the flue with baked on tar, and will not disfigure the paint job with staining condensation runnig down the side of the boat. It is able to be kept at a consistent temperature, and will not burn out hearths or throat plates.

On 30/10/2023 at 09:25, Tony Brooks said:

From what I read and see, it seems drip feed (pot burner) diesel stoves like the Bubbles need a longer flue than can be accommodated on most narrowboats to get optimum combustion, especially at higher outputs. It also seems the burner pots need very regular cleaning, especially of the almost hidden air holes.

Bubble stoves and the like can easily be flued efficiently in narrowboats with an outside insulated flue, and the ' very regular cleaning' is no more than is required than ash emptying and firebox cleaning of a solid fuel or wood burning stove. The almost hidden air holes will not block before the fumes of poor combustion will have forced the boat to be evacuated, and with continual use, it is advisable to scrape the base of the burner pot. 

A drip feed stove will not gum up the flue with baked on tar, and will not disfigure the paint job with staining condensation runnig down the side of the boat. It is able to be kept at a consistent temperature, and will not burn out hearths or throat plates.

[manxmike]

21 hours ago, JungleJames said:

Just out of interest.

Why then do plenty of people:

1. Fit new stoves

2. Fit lithium batteries and new alternators (If this one even needs that, we are preaching without knowing the full facts).

 

Why do these other people not get told how stupid it is? Because whilst they may be doing it for different reasons, that is pretty much what's needed as a minimum for this boat. 

If that doubles the cost of the boat, I'd be very very surprised.

 

The OP needs to investigate everything. Not just write it all off.

 

 

 

Possibly because they have the time and money, maybe they just wanted a project or were told they could then sell the boat at a huge profit. Whatever, I'm not decrying the idea, just pointing out that the cost of retro fitting the systems can prove to be extremely expensive and time consuming.

[IanD]

16 minutes ago, manxmike said:

Possibly because they have the time and money, maybe they just wanted a project or were told they could then sell the boat at a huge profit. Whatever, I'm not decrying the idea, just pointing out that the cost of retro fitting the systems can prove to be extremely expensive and time consuming.

 

Like many improvements to houses and boats, the cost of doing them is very often bigger than any resulting increase in value. If money is key, better to buy one with the improvements already made, then somebody else has lost money on them... 😉

 

Do improvements for the sake of your own comfort and enjoyment, not because you want to make a profit out of them 🙂

Edited October 31, 2023 by IanD

[Didne]

Oooh … suppose it’s all hypothetical now, but just out of interest, I’ve  just received an email from the broker … it says  

 

The engine hours are 510 (so less than 2 hours / week) (even I can figure out that wasn’t constantly cruising)

 

and the batteries are 1 x 100ah starter battery and 4 x 9ah lithium batteries

 

 

 

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

10 minutes ago, Didne said:

Oooh … suppose it’s all hypothetical now, but just out of interest, I’ve  just received an email from the broker … it says  

 

The engine hours are 510 (so less than 2 hours / week) (even I can figure out that wasn’t constantly cruising)

 

and the batteries are 1 x 100ah starter battery and 4 x 9ah lithium batteries

 

 

 

 

 

I think ether you or the broker has made a mistake

[Tony1]

4 minutes ago, Didne said:

Oooh … suppose it’s all hypothetical now, but just out of interest, I’ve  just received an email from the broker … it says  

 

The engine hours are 510 (so less than 2 hours / week) (even I can figure out that wasn’t constantly cruising)

 

and the batteries are 1 x 100ah starter battery and 4 x 9ah lithium batteries

 

 

Well that's interesting. I'm sure that's a typo, and they really meant 4x90Ah lithium, so 360Ah in total. But it is lithium, which is good, and you do have an excellent charging system for them with the travelpower unit. 

Tbh that doesnt sound like a lot of battery capacity for a totally gas-free boat, if you were out on the cut, but it would be enough if you had gas and a SF stove.

Given that it only has 500 engine hours, I'm betting its spent most its life in a marina on hookup, with the odd cruise every few weeks. 

My boat was approaching 6 years old when I bought it, and it only had 550 engine hours, so that's not too unusual. 

In theory the engine should be in great nick, but you'd have to check the servicing records if you were interested in it. 

It's a shame you don't have someone knowledgeable like a Tony Brooks, who could take a look at the boat for you and give you an idea whether there would be any complications in doing the gas and stove installs that are needed.

Its possible that you could pay £5k to get that done and and end up with a boat you really like, but its also possible there could be hidden snags with doing that upgrade work, and costs could end up higher, e.g. maybe you need a proper gas locker or some welding. 

That's where the risk is.

As I said above, for me everything depends on how low you can drive the sale price, and how the sale price compares to a similar boat that is already fully equipped.

For me, it would have to be at least 8k cheaper than a normal boat of the same type and age, before I'd even think about it. 

 

 

[Didne]

36 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I think ether you or the broker has made a mistake

that’s defo what the email said … 

 

 

 

 

btw what does that ‘greenie’ up arrow thing mean ? … xxx

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

1 hour ago, Didne said:

that’s defo what the email said … 

 

 

 

 

btw what does that ‘greenie’ up arrow thing mean ? … xxx

 Please look elsewhere, I don’t know your budget or the specifics your after, but I’m 100% sure you’ll find a more suitable boat. Please put the broker link on, remember they are selling the boat, so you have absolutely zilch loyalty to them.

[JungleJames]

So let's be clear. Most of the reasons people were saying it was not a good gas free boat, have turned out not to be problems.

 

People were shouting without the full facts.

 

If you like the boat, and you are happy to be gas free, all you really need for now is a solid fuel stove or diesel stove.

If the broker has engineering capabilities as well, try it as a bargaining chip. Fit a stove, and we have a deal, sort of thing.

 

Follow that up with increased solar panels before next summer.

 

As time goes on, you can see if the amount of lithium batteries are enough. 

 

But.

1- Do you intend to spend a lot of time tied up on the tow path in winter? If so, not going to be easy to charge those batteries in winter. So gas free perhaps not the best. Unless you eat takeaways during these months!!!!

2- It is likely using diesel to charge batteries to cook is a little more expensive than using gas to cook.

So cooking is more expensive in winter, but cheaper in summer when you have the solar power. Horses for courses. You decide.

 

Too many on here seem to think the world will end without gas. But plenty have gas free boats. It can work.

Just depends if you will be moving enough to charge batteries in winter.

 

Or you could sit in a marina with shore power over winter. Perfect scenario and basically the same as using your electric oven at home.

[Tony1]

4 minutes ago, JungleJames said:

 

Too many on here seem to think the world will end without gas. But plenty have gas free boats. It can work.

Just depends if you will be moving enough to charge batteries in winter.

 

Or you could sit in a marina with shore power over winter. Perfect scenario and basically the same as using your electric oven at home.

 

I think the OP has dropped the idea of buying this boat, but I find it an interesting topic anyway, so I'm interested in your thoughts on some of these challenges:

My issue with going gas free is based on the scenario of a boater using a normal electric cooker, including an oven. 

So if you were preparing a meal, you might want the oven on, using say 4000 watts. Plus at least one hob at say 1500 watts. 

That's about 5500 watts- so you need a big inverter, which is going to be very expensive. 

The other issue I have is buying a big enough lithium battery bank that you can pull out 5500 watts from them (so maybe 400+ amps at 12/13 volts?)  

And the third issue for me is- how do you get all that charge back into the batteries? 

I'm guessing that a 4000 watt oven running for 45 mins might use 240Ah of charge, maybe? 

That's an awful lot of charge to generate, even with a travel power. And that's just for one meal. 

Now if you were to drop the idea of a full electric cooker, and look at things like air fyrers and induction hobs, you could reduce the energy needs for cooking, but by how much? 

I just have a suspicion that the cost of the diesel fuel needed to generate all the charge required for cooking would be more expensive than using gas, and the cost of the electrical setup need to handle all the power would be really expensive.

That's not to say that you cant run a hob (or two) and a microwave and a kettle from batteries, of course. It definitely has a role in some cooking.

But many people who enjoy their cooking will want a capable cooking setup, and will be looking at a full electric cooker with an oven. 

And for them, I personally feel that gas is the cheapest and most effective option. 

 

 

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

The pair of you’s don't seam worth while listening too, yeh You both have loads of experience, probably a couple of years afloat.  

4 hours ago, Didne said:

that’s defo what the email said … 

 

 

 

 

btw what does that ‘greenie’ up arrow thing mean ? … xxx

Please ignore the two sprog muppets above, let them argue the toss, I imagine  they’re also relevant Newbies😂

Edited November 1, 2023 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[MtB]

43 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

So if you were preparing a meal, you might want the oven on, using say 4000 watts.

 

Point of Order yer honour...

 

Electric ovens are typically 1,500 Watts. Both of mine are 1,500W as have been (I think!) all the others I have owned.

[Tony1]

4 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Point of Order yer honour...

 

Electric ovens are typically 1,500 Watts. Both of mine are 1,500W as have been (I think!) all the others I have owned.

 

Well its a fair cop guvnor.

I had no idea tbh, so I did a quick google search, and found this:

https://www.energysage.com/electricity/house-watts/how-many-watts-does-an-electric-oven-and-stove-use/

 

Alas, I trusted google - again...

 

[MtB]

2 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

Well its a fair cop guvnor.

I had no idea tbh, so I did a quick google search, and found this:

https://www.energysage.com/electricity/house-watts/how-many-watts-does-an-electric-oven-and-stove-use/

 

Alas, I trusted google - again...

 

 

Fekkin ell, what a spammy site!