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Think I might be in trouble.


david909

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46 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Then I must be a bit unusual.

 

Tho' I'm not sure why you'd be stood on the gunwales, there is much more room at the stern and the bow well deck.

Attach the bow nappy pin.

Let the boat drop back

Attach the stern nappy pin

Pull both lines tight until the boat sits between the two with the lines at 30-45 degrees.

 

With our NBs I'd always be on the boat to drop the nappy pins behind the armco, even tying up to rings or bollards can be done whilst on the boat, the only time I'd get off the boat (unattached) would be if / when Pins were needed.

 

It's maybe a difference in the way you've been taught and the type of waters you use.

There are always currents and flow on Rivers (and of course on the sea) so you never leave your boat unattached. Once you are off the boat, even holding a line, if the boat 'starts to go' then there is nothing you can do to stop it.

Once you have the bow line attached (even loosely) the boat can go nowhere.

 

 

Everyone else is talking about canals and you're on about rivers/seas, that's why you're "unusual"!!!!

 

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We use a tent peg puller, saves kneeling in the odd ants nest or general wetness, it's about two and a half feet in length.

Picked it up cheap on Amazon, sadly no longer listed. Was called "the back saver" or similar.

 

217YtdluCOL._AC_.jpg

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I saw someone with long vertical rods welded to the top of his nappy pins. It made them very easy to insert without bending/getting muddy/ being nettle stung. The painted bars just stuck up when in place and had handles on top as impale protection. I don’t know where he stored them.

 

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21 minutes ago, Paul C said:

 

 

Everyone else is talking about canals and you're on about rivers/seas, that's why you're "unusual"!!!!

 

 

Maybe try reading what I actually wrote - We have had 40 years on the canals with steel NBs.

That is how we moor up, as I said, it is probably due to my overall boating experiences and training.

 

Whilst there may not be much (if any) flow on a canal, just as you get off with your centre line a boat comes wizzing by and either pulls you in, or pulls the line out of your hands.

 

Many skills are transferable from other 'types' of waters, boat handling being one of them

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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I have one of those but it looks like it’s been wrenched out of shape.

 

This morning’s adventure is… failed coupling. Forward/ reverse shift works but no propellor turning. Failed as I was nosing into a lock. No noise, no nothing, just works fine, as normal, then nothing. Managed to haul it out of the lock by rope and now waiting to see when someone can get to me.

Why am I waiting for someone? Because I spent a lot of money to have all this sorted and this is day three and she’s broken down twice. 

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7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Maybe try reading what I actually wrote - We have had 40 years on the canals with steel NBs.

That is how we moor up, as I said, it is probably due to my overall boating experiences and training.

 

Whilst there may not be much (if any) flow on a canal, just as you get off with your centre line a boat comes wizzing by and either pulls you in, or pulls the line out of your hands.

 

Many skills are transferable from other 'types' of waters, boat handling being one of them

 

We've never had the situation where a boat comes "whizzing" past and wrenches the line from our hands. Seen it by others though. We stop, moor up quick and efficient when there's no boats going past; or they slow down; or we keep a decent hold.

 

Seen it plenty of times though where its almost like there's a rota for who holds the centre line, some people seem to take for ever to moor up and make a right dog's breakfast of it!

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19 minutes ago, david909 said:

I have one of those but it looks like it’s been wrenched out of shape.

 

This morning’s adventure is… failed coupling. Forward/ reverse shift works but no propellor turning. Failed as I was nosing into a lock. No noise, no nothing, just works fine, as normal, then nothing. Managed to haul it out of the lock by rope and now waiting to see when someone can get to me.

Why am I waiting for someone? Because I spent a lot of money to have all this sorted and this is day three and she’s broken down twice. 

Hydraulic gearbox short of oil?

Can you see a broken coupling between the box and shaft?

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I sent a video of the engine running, with forward/reverse shift being used to the engineer. The engine side is fine.  But no rotation seems to pass to the prop. He said, “impact”, but there were none. No anything other than suddenly no propellor.
Yesterday it was the thermostat that failed. The engine’s coolant tank was boiling.

I collected the boat on Friday, after being told “all boat systems are working, all work completed”, which included an engine service!

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1 minute ago, david909 said:

I sent a video of the engine running, with forward/reverse shift being used to the engineer. The engine side is fine.  But no rotation seems to pass to the prop. He said, “impact”, but there were none. No anything other than suddenly no propellor.
Yesterday it was the thermostat that failed. The engine’s coolant tank was boiling.

I collected the boat on Friday, after being told “all boat systems are working, all work completed”, which included an engine service!

If its the drive plate between the engine and the fly wheel the boatyard have no way of establishing when it would fail, no service would find this.

I will ask again, can you see a broken flexible coupling behind the gearbox and before the prop shaft?

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39 minutes ago, david909 said:

I have one of those but it looks like it’s been wrenched out of shape.

 

This morning’s adventure is… failed coupling. Forward/ reverse shift works but no propellor turning. Failed as I was nosing into a lock. No noise, no nothing, just works fine, as normal, then nothing. Managed to haul it out of the lock by rope and now waiting to see when someone can get to me.

Why am I waiting for someone? Because I spent a lot of money to have all this sorted and this is day three and she’s broken down twice. 

Get rid, who owned the boat before, was it the boat yard?

 Sounds like they've “tried to make a silk purse out of a Sows ear” 

 You wrote this in your opening post

“The survey I had done revealed a somewhat grittier picture, but I'd fallen in love and, on the strength of advice from the boat broker that the work that needed doing would cost me around£13-16k, I negotiated a stiff price reductionand went ahead with the purchase”

 “fallen in love” how old are you? The boat sounds a mess from everything you’ve written and you sound young and nieve. Wake up, you've bought a bad boat.

 

 

Edited by BoatinglifeupNorth
  • Greenie 1
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If it is a flexible coupling and its torn out of shape, its likely that the prop picked something up going into the lock and it has failed due to age and stress. A phone picture would be good.......................

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4 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

Get rid, who owned the boat before, was it the boat yard?

 Sounds like they've “tried to make a silk purse out of a Sows ear” 

 You wrote this in your opening post

“The survey I had done revealed a somewhat grittier picture, but I'd fallen in love and, on the strength of advice from the boat broker that the work that needed doing would cost me around£13-16k, I negotiated a stiff price reductionand went ahead with the purchase”

 “fallen in love” how old are you? The boat sounds a mess from everything you’ve written and you sound young and nieve. Wake up, you've bought a bad boat.

 

 

Sold by brokerage company. The boat was at Barton Turns. They had a few their for sale.

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Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

If it is a flexible coupling and its torn out of shape, its likely that the prop picked something up going into the lock and it has failed due to age and stress. A phone picture would be good.......................

That was taken with an iPhone. Can do another. Can send video of it running.

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Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

If it is a flexible coupling and its torn out of shape, its likely that the prop picked something up going into the lock and it has failed due to age and stress. A phone picture would be good.......................

Got it. Centraflex coupling failed.  that will cost you.

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1 minute ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

How old are you?

Can you stop with this please? It’s not helping. If you have something useful to contribute please do.

2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Got it. Centraflex coupling failed.  that will cost you.

Cost me how much?

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Presumably the shaft from the gearbox turns but the shaft the other side of that big flexible coupling doesn't.  That almost certainly means the coupling is broke and I don't know if there is any repair possible. Personally i would look for an alternative coupling, those things are dear.

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3 minutes ago, david909 said:

Can you stop with this please? It’s not helping. If you have something useful to contribute please do.

Cost me how much?

Depends on the shaft diameter but they are heading towards £400 inc vat.

To change it to a cheaper coupling would be no cheaper as you would need new gearbox and shaft flanges to fit say an R&D flex coupling.

Who is this boatyard? 

If you cant afford repairs, sell the boat as it is. Ask me and I can make you an offer in cash and come and tow it away.

  • Greenie 1
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R&D Marine 202-165C 4" Propeller Shaft Coupling for 25mm Shaft (asap-supplies.com) Something like this but it is not a flexible coupling so you would have to be meticulous in aligning the gearbox and shaft. Speaking of which I do not recognise the rubber bellows and stern gland - someone else might and if you are lucky it will accept a bit of misalignment. There are other alternatives as well so the hugely expensive Centaflex is not your only option. 

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The white adaptors are for 1/2" BSP thread. Until the 1980's at least,  black 5/8" BSP adaptors used to be supplied as well as the white 1/2" ones.  By then, I think that tap  manufacturers had changed from 5/8" to 3/4", so I guess there was little demand for the 5/8" ones. 

Edited by Ronaldo47
typo
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9 minutes ago, Bee said:

R&D Marine 202-165C 4" Propeller Shaft Coupling for 25mm Shaft (asap-supplies.com) Something like this but it is not a flexible coupling so you would have to be meticulous in aligning the gearbox and shaft. Speaking of which I do not recognise the rubber bellows and stern gland - someone else might and if you are lucky it will accept a bit of misalignment. There are other alternatives as well so the hugely expensive Centaflex is not your only option. 

Your shaft is bigger than 25mm. At a guess it will be 1 1/4"  or 1 1/2"  unlikely to be a metric size judging by the age of the boat and its condition.

  That quoted by  Bee  is just the bit that goes on the shaft, you would also need the flexible drive part and a flange for the gearbox, bolts etc.  Much more than the Centaflex  coupling.

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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22 minutes ago, david909 said:

Can you stop with this please? It’s not helping. If you have something useful to contribute please do.

Cost me how much?

Here’s something useful if you want to take it in or burry your head in the sand.

 Take the boat back to the broker and sell it and get some money back, then go and view some decent boats if you still want to buy one. If people were more honest on here and write what they're thinking, most would write the same. Looks like you’ve bought a bag of worms. Sell it and let someone else have the problems 

 

Edited by BoatinglifeupNorth
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