Lister Petter warning light problem

[pt2583]

Hi, I'm still pretty new to narrow boating and still very much on a steep learning curve when it comes to boat engines. My 31 ft Midland canal boat has a Lister Petter LPWS2 engine and has developed an issue when starting. I get it started no problem, however the warning lights are taking longer and longer to go out. When I first got it about a year ago all you had to do was rev the engine a little and they would go out. Now you have to rev the engine quite fast before they go out. It would help if I new what the rev the engine was doing to make the warning lights go out. Done a bit of research on line and articles I've found suggest this may be alternator/regulator problem. Does this sound right. I would appreciate any help suggestions, thank Paul

[rusty69]

Have you checked the belt tension. 

And it's not slipping. 

 

Also check all electrical connections are clean and tight. 

 

It could also be a failing diode. 

 

 

[pt2583]

Hi, belt tension was pretty bad when I got the boat and there was no problem then. Belt was squealing pretty bad so I adjusted a few months ago, squealing hasn't returned so haven't checked for a while will do though

[Tony Brooks]

Please double-check that you really do mean lightS (plural) and not light (singular). If it is just one light then what colour or symbol is on it (this is not a 100% method of identification of purpose).

 

The oil pressure light and the charge light work in two different ways, so if it is both lights things are a bit odd. If the alternator is not charging, then the oil pressure should still put its light out.

[Tracy D'arth]

Do you mean just the "ignition" warning lamp, often red?  Or is the oil warning light slow to go out as well, usually green?

 

Slipped past Tony...

Edited February 8 by Tracy D'arth

[pt2583]

3 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

Hi, belt tension was pretty bad when I got the boat and there was no problem then. Belt was squealing pretty bad so I adjusted a few months ago, squealing hasn't returned so haven't checked for a while will do though

I should also add I don't live on the boat yet so won't be able to immediately carry out any work. I'm grateful for any advice and will check any thing suggested on next visit.

5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Please double-check that you really do mean lightS (plural) and not light (singular). If it is just one light then what colour or symbol is on it (this is not a 100% method of identification of purpose).

 

The oil pressure light and the charge light work in two different ways, so if it is both lights things are a bit odd. If the alternator is not charging, then the oil pressure should still put its light out.

Hi, the ignition, oil and temp light on (red) on the panel all stay on flashing. I have the hand book and this correct, when you rev the engine (hand book says "increase revs a little") they should go out and a green light comes on to confirm all is well.

[Tony Brooks]

8 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

Hi, the ignition, oil and temp light on (red) on the panel all stay on flashing. I have the hand book and this correct, when you rev the engine (hand book says "increase revs a little") they should go out and a green light comes on to confirm all is well.

 

The warning lamps do not normally flash, they are either on or off. This applies to the vast majority of engines, and I have not seen that the LPWs are any different.

 

I suppose a belt that is slipping and gripping MIGHT make the charge light flash and as the voltage goes up and down the oil lamp brighten and dim again. That is all I can think of, unless there is a loose connection somewhere that is vibrating. However, I still find it hard to see how that would affect both lamps.

[rusty69]

Pretty sure mine used to do that. A picture might help. If it's like my one, it's a group of 3 LEDs, not bulbs. 

[pt2583]

This is from operators hand book

[pt2583]

[Tracy D'arth]

Crazy. I would establish that the oil pressure is OK.

Brushes in the alternator?  Belt shredded?

We need to know what hours this engine has done.

[pt2583]

12 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Pretty sure mine used to do that. A picture might help. If it's like my one, it's a group of 3 LEDs, not bulbs. 

Yes that's right they're leds

1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Crazy. I would establish that the oil pressure is OK.

Brushes in the alternator?  Belt shredded?

We need to know what hours this engine has done.

No idea of hours, boat built in 1990 I think

[rusty69]

Also check the multiplug (if you have one). 

 

I seem to recall my lister has two of these. One behind the panel, and one down near the engine. 

Edited February 8 by rusty69

[pt2583]

4 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Also check the multiplug (if you have one). 

 

I seem to recall my lister has two of these. One behind the panel, and one down near the engine. 

This was actually going to be my next step, cleaning contacts on the big multiplug. Do you know why you have to rev the engine to get the lights out. Always puzzled me

[Tracy D'arth]

3 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

This was actually going to be my next step, cleaning contacts on the big multiplug. Do you know why you have to rev the engine to get the lights out. Always puzzled me

Its probably to get the alternator excited and to start charging.

[rusty69]

I also recall there is a capacitor and a resistor that connects to the rear of the control panel. Maybe worth looking at them after the multiplug. 

[Tony Brooks]

5 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I also recall there is a capacitor and a resistor that connects to the rear of the control panel. Maybe worth looking at them after the multiplug. 

 

Good thought, they could be part of a pulsing control. However, I am still mystified as to why one of the LEDs will not go out.

 

I view the flashing as needless marketing complication, not that the OP has any option. As I said in a similar topic, if nothing is obviously wrong, once I had checked the senders and alternator I would fit lamps with bulbs in them (not grain of wheat bulbs though).

[pt2583]

14 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Good thought, they could be part of a pulsing control. However, I am still mystified as to why one of the LEDs will not go out.

 

I view the flashing as needless marketing complication, not that the OP has any option. As I said in a similar topic, if nothing is obviously wrong, once I had checked the senders and alternator I would fit lamps with bulbs in them (not grain of wheat bulbs though).

It's all three lights staying on

[Tracy D'arth]

4 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

It's all three lights staying on

That was my concern, one is the oil warning light!!!!

[MtB]

14 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

That was my concern, one is the oil warning light!!!!

 

But given we know it is not connected directly to the oil pressure switch, it seems probable the (unnecessary) electronic interface that generates the pretty flashing is prolly busted.

 

 

 

[pt2583]

15 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

That was my concern, one is the oil warning light!!!!

Yes of course this is why I want a solution. I don't like the idea of having to rev the engine before the oil pressure warning light has gone out

[rusty69]

42 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Good thought, they could be part of a pulsing control. However, I am still mystified as to why one of the LEDs will not go out.

 

I view the flashing as needless marketing complication, not that the OP has any option. As I said in a similar topic, if nothing is obviously wrong, once I had checked the senders and alternator I would fit lamps with bulbs in them (not grain of wheat bulbs though).

Good idea. I wonder how easy that would be to do in practice. I really don't like the LED setup on our system. Something simpler would be much better. 

[bizzard]

A 1990 boat and they're LED's ? I didn't think they were around then.

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, rusty69 said:

Good idea. I wonder how easy that would be to do in practice. I really don't like the LED setup on our system. Something simpler would be much better. 

 

Yes, it is, but if there is a warning buzzer then it complicates things a bit because they need diodes as well, but you can sort that by using separate buzzers for each lamp.

 

Another thought. I don't know about this particular engine but some Listers have a solenoid arrangement that makes the engine electrics earth return during starting and insulated return when running. If it is one of these engines, it, may be a good idea to ensure the solenoid is working.

[Tony Brooks]

Have a look at the Beta warning lamp topic above, the feedback/result may give you some clues.