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Lister Petter warning light problem


pt2583

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My SR2 suffers from the pulley coming off the camshaft instead of the crank pulley that most do.  I ended up putting another bulb in parallel with the original on the dashboard.

The increase in wattage was enough to excite the alternator into life earlier.

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5 minutes ago, zenataomm said:

My SR2 suffers from the pulley coming off the camshaft instead of the crank pulley that most do.  I ended up putting another bulb in parallel with the original on the dashboard.

The increase in wattage was enough to excite the alternator into life earlier.

The OP has an LPWS so it uses a proper crankshaft pulley rather than your camshaft one. Depending upon the type of bulb holder, a higher wattage bulb would work, as would a resistor in place of your extra bulb.

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10 minutes ago, zenataomm said:

My SR2 suffers from the pulley coming off the camshaft instead of the crank pulley that most do.  I ended up putting another bulb in parallel with the original on the dashboard.

The increase in wattage was enough to excite the alternator into life earlier.

I do think the problem lies with the alternator taken too long to excite. On Saturday I'm going to try some earlier suggestions before I do anything else. I'll check belt for tightness, although I don't think this cause, check connections and clean up contacts on the multiconnector for wiring loom from instrument panel to engine. If this fails will renew capacitor and diode on rear of panel. Last resort I'll take alternator to local seller and get it tested. Last resort I've found this replacement panel. Thanks for all advice I'll update after weekend

 

https://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/store/p124/Basic_Lister_Marine_Basic_replacement_panel.html

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3 hours ago, pt2583 said:

I do think the problem lies with the alternator taken too long to excite. On Saturday I'm going to try some earlier suggestions before I do anything else. I'll check belt for tightness, although I don't think this cause, check connections and clean up contacts on the multiconnector for wiring loom from instrument panel to engine. If this fails will renew capacitor and diode on rear of panel. Last resort I'll take alternator to local seller and get it tested. Last resort I've found this replacement panel. Thanks for all advice I'll update after weekend

 

https://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/store/p124/Basic_Lister_Marine_Basic_replacement_panel.html

 

On Saturday set the engine to fast idle (say about 1200 rpm) and then carefully put a jump between the main B+ terminal and the warning lamp (D+) terminal for a few seconds. The alternator should immediately start charging. If it does not then the alternator is faulty, if it does then there is a low current from the warning lamp circuit problem and that could be a parallel resistor across the charge light fallen off or broken. Less than 5 minutes to do before you start taking the control panel off.

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5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

On Saturday set the engine to fast idle (say about 1200 rpm) and then carefully put a jump between the main B+ terminal and the warning lamp (D+) terminal for a few seconds. The alternator should immediately start charging. If it does not then the alternator is faulty, if it does then there is a low current from the warning lamp circuit problem and that could be a parallel resistor across the charge light fallen off or broken. Less than 5 minutes to do before you start taking the control panel off.

Thanks I'll give it a go

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Just now, Peugeot 106 said:

My LPWS2 has a multiplug between the engine and panel. Mine 

Used to give me lot of trouble with bad connections. I cleaned the two halves out with electrical contact cleaner and cotton buds after disconnecting it. Then slide the insulation covers back to make sure that the insulating cover isn’t preventing the two halves fully connecting. After that slide the covers back over it again and seal the joint with insulating tape. I also fashioned some cable ties to make sure it can’t come apart again if someone stands on it or whatever. 

Doing this may solve all sorts of problems. Mine has been perfect ever since.

The alternator belt is quite short on mine. If you replace it do not measure it but read the size off the old belt if you are short of room. Mine reads 845mm long but when measured it measures 875mm as it has stretched 30 mm in use

 

i hope this helps. And before anyone else tells you it has hydraulic tappets and because it is an “S” it is direct injection which means that it burns dirtier on start up than indirect injection which can contaminate the oil and damage the tappets. You must change the oil every 100 hours rather than 250 hours for a LPW2. Mine is a great little engine but I don’t neglect changing the oil! 

Good luck

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3 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Used to give me lot of trouble with bad connections. I cleaned the two halves out with electrical contact cleaner and cotton buds after disconnecting it. Then slide the insulation covers back to make sure that the insulating cover isn’t preventing the two halves fully connecting. After that slide the covers back over it again and seal the joint with insulating tape. I also fashioned some cable ties to make sure it can’t come apart again if someone stands on it or whatever. 

Doing this may solve all sorts of problems. Mine has been perfect ever since.

The alternator belt is quite short on mine. If you replace it do not measure it but read the size off the old belt if you are short of room. Mine reads 845mm long but when measured it measures 875mm as it has stretched 30 mm in use

 

i hope this helps. And before anyone else tells you it has hydraulic tappets and because it is an “S” it is direct injection which means that it burns dirtier on start up than indirect injection which can contaminate the oil and damage the tappets. You must change the oil every 100 hours rather than 250 hours for a LPW2. Mine is a great little engine but I don’t neglect changing the oil! 

Good luck

Thanks for the advice, I changed oil in summer and don't do many hours, probably still need to do it again soon though.

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20 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

Thanks for the advice, I changed oil in summer and don't do many hours, probably still need to do it again soon though.

I put fresh oil in mine before winter and run it once a month for 20 minutes. I use a  small Pela to suck oil out of the dipstick and cut the bottom out of a plastic milk bottle which I hold over the filter as I unscrew it. You get pretty good at it as you do it quite often on a cruise! I don’t get much spillage

 

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16 hours ago, pt2583 said:

Screenshot_2023-02-08-08-56-43-238-edit_com.miui.gallery.jpg

Don't like to be the bearer of bad news but that panel was only supplied by Lister for a short while. All the lights and various other electronics were housed in a sealed box. They were never much good and I'm surprised you have one that's lasted this long. That's why Lister only supplied for a short time. Personally I wouldn't trust anything the panel is displaying. I've changed a number of these over the years and replaced with a simple hard wired panel.

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4 hours ago, Steve56 said:

Don't like to be the bearer of bad news but that panel was only supplied by Lister for a short while. All the lights and various other electronics were housed in a sealed box. They were never much good and I'm surprised you have one that's lasted this long. That's why Lister only supplied for a short time. Personally I wouldn't trust anything the panel is displaying. I've changed a number of these over the years and replaced with a simple hard wired panel.

Do you make the panel your self or purchase from somewhere

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11 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

Do you make the panel your self or purchase from somewhere

As I was employed by Lister I bought about 20 of the old ST panels out of a skip. They were the old silver panels with a keyswich and 3 warning lights. But in saying that it would be an easy job to buy the parts and make your own.

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3 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

As I was employed by Lister I bought about 20 of the old ST panels out of a skip. They were the old silver panels with a keyswich and 3 warning lights. But in saying that it would be an easy job to buy the parts and make your own.

It would be beyond me with out diagram, I was looking at this option

 

https://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/store/p124/Basic_Lister_Marine_Basic_replacement_panel.html

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4 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

It would be beyond me with out diagram, I was looking at this option

 

https://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/store/p124/Basic_Lister_Marine_Basic_replacement_panel.html

Yes that's the sort of thing you could probably use. Very similar to the ones I was using. Seems a little expensive for a keyswich and a few lights. But it is a tidy job and hopefully not to difficult to connect. I would assume you would get a connection diagram with it.

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2 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

Yes that's the sort of thing you could probably use. Very similar to the ones I was using. Seems a little expensive for a keyswich and a few lights. But it is a tidy job and hopefully not to difficult to connect. I would assume you would get a connection diagram with it.

Agreed. 200 quid for a few lights and a switch. I've been  on the look out for a used one for a while, but they all seem to go for silly money. 

Edited by rusty69
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56 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

It would be beyond me with out diagram, I was looking at this option

 

https://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/store/p124/Basic_Lister_Marine_Basic_replacement_panel.html

 

 

You will find generic instrument wiring diagrams in the electrical course notes on my website. They are broken down into individual sections to keep them less complicated. http://www.tb-training.co.uk

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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

You will find generic instrument wiring diagrams in the electrical course notes on my website. They are broken down into individual sections to keep them less complicated. http://www.tb-training.co.uk

Looking at most diagrams, it looks complicated, but breaking it down simplifies it quite a bit. I might have a go a doing our one. I notice in the other thread you suggest 2.2W bulbs as a replacement for LEDS. Would 2.2W bulbs be suitable for all three lamps, Oil,temperature and alternator?

 

I particularly like your comment, which might inspire me to have a go :

Quote

It all starts to look complicated, but take one instrument or warning lamp at a time and wire it to its sender. Then work out if you need to connect the sender to the main engine negative connection.

 

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33 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Looking at most diagrams, it looks complicated, but breaking it down simplifies it quite a bit. I might have a go a doing our one. I notice in the other thread you suggest 2.2W bulbs as a replacement for LEDS. Would 2.2W bulbs be suitable for all three lamps, Oil,temperature and alternator?

 

I particularly like your comment, which might inspire me to have a go :

 

 

In most cases a 1.5w bulb will work and the push in bulb holders are more likely to fit in place of LEDs - maybe with a bit of drilling. Something like this:

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-63-warning-lights/p-760-warning-light-with-replaceable-bulb

 

Be very wary because lots of that style are either LEDs or grain of wheat (dolls house) bulbs. As long as you don't go silly so you burn out any switch contacts, the maximum wattage is not that important, but for heat reasons I would aim for between 1.5 and about 4 watts, and on the cam shaft pulley Listers I would use a 6 watt bulb for more ready alternator energisation Anything will do for the other warning lamps, even an LED.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

In most cases a 1.5w bulb will work and the push in bulb holders are more likely to fit in place of LEDs - maybe with a bit of drilling. Something like this:

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-63-warning-lights/p-760-warning-light-with-replaceable-bulb

 

Be very wary because lots of that style are either LEDs or grain of wheat (dolls house) bulbs. As long as you don't go silly so you burn out any switch contacts, the maximum wattage is not that important, but for heat reasons I would aim for between 1.5 and about 4 watts, and on the can shaft pulley Listers I would use a 6 watt bulb for more ready alternator energisation Anything will do for the other warning lamps, even an LED.

Thanks Tony.

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3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Going through the book, I think this is the LPWS (inslated) wiring diagram

 

Screenshot 2023-02-09 11.18.47.png

 

But is it the one for the short-lived panel using LEDs and electronics, which is the subject of this topic? You will find that bar different drawing conventions, all makers diagrams are virtually identical.

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

But is it the one for the short-lived panel using LEDs and electronics, which is the subject of this topic? You will find that bar different drawing conventions, all makers diagrams are virtually identical.

It doesn't mention that, and I am not sure that side of it is included in this schematic. I suspect it is on the other side of the connector that isn't in the diagram.

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Your first job is to trace all the wires in the coloured loom and find out where they go. I numbered all mine in a note book and then went about connecting them to a new ( bought not lister) panel. The LPWS heater timer/relay I found a bit confusing as mine isn’t standard.

If you break it down into small jobs it’s pretty straight forward but I did find it best to take my time, be methodical, RECORD EVERYTHING, make sure you have a clear head.

i found the lister wiring diagram even more confusing and payed little attention to it as you can’t be sure you have the right one.

attached are some of my notes to give you the idea. I understand them!

hope it helps. I managed and i’m no expert, but it took me a few days. A few rolls of various wires, cable stripper and crimps with a crimper are handy along with an ammeter with long leads so that you can trace where wires go. Remember you need to disconnect each end to trace a wire!

 

its actually quite satisfying if you like that sort of thing and you can be sure of a relatively neat job

96CAD3CE-7E16-4625-BD78-0E27546DEC89.jpeg

0B448735-34FA-4F09-B76F-64175C8A9EA2.jpeg

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I'd agree with the other posters 200 quid for not even an original panel is a lot. Just buy 3 12v warning lights from somewhere like vehicle wiring supplies or durite or off ebay. 

 

Worth looking on ebay as the lister panels do come up from time to time. 

 

 

 

 

 

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