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hi every one sorry to be so vague .but a friend of mine as brought at narrowboat .thats in need of a lot of work and attention .at the moment they are trying to get the engine up and running , i believe the engine is a lister 2 pot .they got some guy to come and have a look at it , and he said the starter  motor need a new one .which  he did get ,but he could not try it as the exhaust was rotted to hell .and he did not have the time to get one and sort this out so the  thing is does any one know of any one or any were they could get a new  exhaust system the have tried midland chandelers  no joy i will try and put a photo of what left of the old one thanks in advance regards

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23 minutes ago, haza said:

hi every one sorry to be so vague .but a friend of mine as brought at narrowboat .thats in need of a lot of work and attention .at the moment they are trying to get the engine up and running , i believe the engine is a lister 2 pot .they got some guy to come and have a look at it , and he said the starter  motor need a new one .which  he did get ,but he could not try it as the exhaust was rotted to hell .and he did not have the time to get one and sort this out so the  thing is does any one know of any one or any were they could get a new  exhaust system the have tried midland chandelers  no joy i will try and put a photo of what left of the old one thanks in advance regards

You make them up out of iron  water barrel (pipe), fittings and hopefully a flexible section. I am sure MC with have the flexibles and the rest comes form a decent plumbing merchant. However threading water barrel needs a hulking great die so I think you are correct that you need someone with the kit.

 

I can so no reason apart from smoke and noise why the starter could not have been tested. I would have started it, so it sounds a bit suspect to me.

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

You make them up out of iron  water barrel (pipe), fittings and hopefully a flexible section.

 

Then cover it all with glass fibre tape to keep the boat safety person happy.

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The easiest way to put a male thread on a piece of water barrel, if you don't have a die, is to buy a suitable size barrel nipple, cut it in half then weld one half onto the end of the water barrel.

You can also get fittings designed for welding together.

Somewhere in the exhaust you will need to fit a union ( a particular type of fitting which is designed to be separated easily) so that you can assemble the exhaust and disassemble it in future

All screwed joints need to be put together with a slathering of copper grease, or after being used they will never part.

 

Buy the lagging tape on ebay, not from a chandlers.  A whole roll is cheaper than Chandler prices for small pieces.

 

N

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1 hour ago, BEngo said:

The easiest way to put a male thread on a piece of water barrel, if you don't have a die, is to buy a suitable size barrel nipple, cut it in half then weld one half onto the end of the water barrel.

You can also get fittings designed for welding together.

Somewhere in the exhaust you will need to fit a union ( a particular type of fitting which is designed to be separated easily) so that you can assemble the exhaust and disassemble it in future

All screwed joints need to be put together with a slathering of copper grease, or after being used they will never part.

 

Buy the lagging tape on ebay, not from a chandlers.  A whole roll is cheaper than Chandler prices for small pieces.

 

N

The new exhaust will also need a flexible se toon, to allow for the vibrations between the engine and the fixings of the e haunt to the boat hull. If one doesn’t do that, the new exhaust will almost certainly crack.

9 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

All sorts of nits here Boat Exhaust System Components (midlandchandlers.co.uk) then you will need at least one of these

image.png.2517e43dbcb66cc10f9f587f386809d9.png 

And big spanners or a proper pipe wrench!

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9 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:

The new exhaust will also need a flexible se toon, to allow for the vibrations between the engine and the fixings of the e haunt to the boat hull. If one doesn’t do that, the new exhaust will almost certainly crack.

And big spanners or a proper pipe wrench!

Its OK doing them up, but breaking them out 15 years later is a different game

  • Greenie 1
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5 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Its OK doing them up, but breaking them out 15 years later is a different game

Oh, don’t remind me. Sometimes I got lucky and it came apart, other times a disc cutter was quickest.

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Standard 1 1/2"  BSP steam pipe and fittings. Flexies are available with male or female threads or one of each.

You don't need a union if the exhaust manifold has a bolted on collar for the outlet but it makes it easier to take the exhaust off again in 5 years time!

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1 1/2" BSP pipe has an outside diameter of just under 1.9" (48 mm).  2" BSP  is just under 2.4" (60 mm).

 

Iron pipe is available in three wall thicknesses, all having the same outside diameter and hence progressively slightly narrower bores: light (gas), medium (water) and heavy (steam), and with  either plain or galvanised finish.  The thicker-walled  steam quality stuff should evidently  last longer than the other types. 

Edited by Ronaldo47
typos
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1 hour ago, Ronaldo47 said:

1 1/2" BSP pipe has an outside diameter of just under 1.9" (48 mm).  2" BSP  is just under 2.4" (60 mm).

 

Iron pipe is available in three wall thicknesses, all having the same outside diameter and hence progressively slightly narrower bores: light (gas), medium (water) and heavy (steam), and with  either plain or galvanised finish.  The thicker-walled  steam quality stuff should evidently  last longer than the other types. 

Pipe is actually rated in Schedule numbers, the higher number the thicker wall image.png.37e4fbb3a532f57c783316069ac88c15.png

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