Help to identify a broken part on a Morso Squirrel

[tree monkey]

10 minutes ago, waterworks said:

Unless it's falling out of place exposing the stove walls  there is no reason to repair or replace it. 

 

Personally I prefer not doing unnecessary work or costs but each to their own. 

 

 

Which is also fine, advice is freely given on the forum, if the advice is taken that's up to the OP

[LadyG]

On 16/11/2021 at 19:18, waterworks said:

Why would you possibly want to waste money on replacing a cracked fire brick?

 

What do you think the crack will do, let the fire leak out ?

It might create a hole which exposes the back boiler, also create overheating on the stove wall leading to cracks in stove.

Some people abhor a bodge, they like everything perfect, so they don't wake up to a big hole in the back brick, and no way of getting fireclay or replacement brick. 

I was able to buy a pot of fireclay, but not a replacement brick

I would also recommend a small pot of fireclay in stock in case you get stuck in the middle of nowhere with overnight temps below zero. 

PS........ NEVER use fireclay to seal the flue and collar, use glass fibre rope. One will set your threaten to set your deckhead on fire, the other method is safer DAMHIK, and for all those trolls who drag themselves around Cwdf, it wasn't me 🚒

I think I would use high temp silicon at the base of the flue where it meets the stove top, assuming it would also allow flexibility to prevent cracking of stove top. Comments? 

Stove installation on a boat is a big subject. Covered on this forum using search facility. 

I also had to affix angle iron to the hearth, previously red hot embers might roll out across the carpet. This effectively extends the size of the hearth. 

Take care of yourself, don't rely on a BSS certificate. 

Edited November 23, 2021 by LadyG

[matty40s]

2 hours ago, LadyG said:

It might create a hole which exposes the back boiler......

 

I thought that was the whole point of a back boiler...?

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, matty40s said:

I thought that was the whole point of a back boiler...?

 

No, No, No - the firebricks are there to protect & prevent the back boiler getting too hot

[Machpoint005]

The last thing you want a back boiler to do is ... boil.

 

[ditchcrawler]

1 hour ago, Machpoint005 said:

The last thing you want a back boiler to do is ... boil.

 

That is in fact correct If its boiling you could well be in trouble

 

[waterworks]

Like I said silicone isn't to be used on the flue collar. 

Good Afternoon Richard, You should use a fire rope and black fire cement for the collar of the flue. The heat resistant silicone can be used higher     ##- please type your reply above this line -## Good Afternoon. You should use a fire rope and black fire cement for the collar of the flue. The heat resistant silicone can be used higher up the flue.   +441179117895 Hours of Operation: 8:00AM - 4:30PM. VITCAS 204-208 Broomhill Road Bristol, BS4 5RG, United Kingdom VAT GB 934170142

[BEngo]

They are wrong.  Fire cement has no place in sealimg a boat flue.  To suggest otherwise is to display a fundamental non understanding of the operating environment.

N

 

[matty40s]

1 hour ago, BEngo said:

They are wrong.  Fire cement has no place in sealimg a boat flue.  To suggest otherwise is to display a fundamental non understanding of the operating environment.

N

 

I disagree, the stove top flue should be bedded in a collar on a fire rope and sealed with fire cement.

The upper portion which travels through the roof collar should be sealed with fire rope, packed out with exhaust band perhaps, and sealed with hi-temp sealant. 

I dont know how many stoves I have fitted(lost count), but no-one has ever returned with an issue, and mine is done the same way, without any problems in 14 years.

[BEngo]

All fire cement cracks, usually fairly quickly.  Engine vibration and normal boating bumps don't  help. Then you are relying on the fire rope, and the draught to create a slightly negative fire box pressure.  Hi temperature sealant doesn't crack and backs up the rope and the draught.

N

[waterworks]

18 hours ago, BEngo said:

They are wrong.  Fire cement has no place in sealimg a boat flue.  To suggest otherwise is to display a fundamental non understanding of the operating environment.

N

 

They have confirmed that the temperatures at the collar end are too high for silicone sealants, which is why people on this thread have reported a burning smell. As long as one end of the flue is free to expand length ways ( the collar end ) there is no problem. 

 

 

[LadyG]

On 26/11/2021 at 15:15, waterworks said:

Like I said silicone isn't to be used on the flue collar. 

Good Afternoon Richard, You should use a fire rope and black fire cement for the collar of the flue. The heat resistant silicone can be used higher     ##- please type your reply above this line -## Good Afternoon. You should use a fire rope and black fire cement for the collar of the flue. The heat resistant silicone can be used higher up the flue.   +441179117895 Hours of Operation: 8:00AM - 4:30PM. VITCAS 204-208 Broomhill Road Bristol, BS4 5RG, United Kingdom VAT GB 934170142

Maybe I am confused, I see fireclay has been used to seal at the stove top to flue, this is the bit I thought about using silicon to flex the joint. Is this the collar, or what is the collar? 

I chiselled away the fireclay that bodger used up top inside, at 2. 00 am when the heat was threatening to set deckhead alight. Air is better insulator, but has been replaced with fire rope and the glass fibre silver tape used for exhausts

Edited November 28, 2021 by LadyG

[Tony Brooks]

24 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Maybe I am confused, I see fireclay has been used to seal at the stove top to flue, this is the bit I thought about using silicon to flex the joint. Is this the collar, or what is the collar? 

I chiselled away the fireclay that bodger used up top inside, at 2. 00 am when the heat was threatening to set deckhead alight. Air is better insulator, but has been replaced with fire rope and the glass fibre silver tape used for exhausts

 

You probbaly have a stove collar and a roof collar (for the want of  a better description). Vitcas are talking about the stove collar where as i thunk that you are talking about the roof collar. All agree that high temperature silicon is fine at the roof collar. Some of us, me included, do not agree that fire clay is best for the stove collar because it always seems to crack. I used ordinary high temperature silicon on my stove collar (not the extra high temperature stuff) and it was absolutely fine for about 15 years until I sold the boat. I can not recommend that you use the same though. Remember Victas have to consider huge stoves that produce lots of heat when running normally, not the small ones often used in narrowboats.

 

If your deckhead was getting a shot as you suggest then the deckhead was not cut away to give sufficient clearance and possible the roof insulation was not changed for a non-flamable type like Rockwool in that area. I gave mine a minimum of 4" between flue and any the wooden deckhead with the gap covered wit fireboard.