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BlueStringPudding

Replacing a water pump

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Is the valve core loose?  I think if it is not then I would change the core for a new one. They and the tools you need are available from car spares shops. Just a case of unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new one.

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29 minutes ago, philjw said:

Is the valve core loose?  I think if it is not then I would change the core for a new one. They and the tools you need are available from car spares shops. Just a case of unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new one.

Thanks for your reply. In answer to your question: I don't know. Everything at the business end of the accumulator is being done by feel. The valve of the accumulator is almost butted up against the side of the boat. I can barely get my fingers in there to unscrew the valve cap (and I've got small hands) and am doing so almost blindly. The photo below shows all that I can see.

So given that, what exactly is a valve core? How can I tell if it's loose, please? How do I tighten it if it is loose? And if not, how do I replace one? (As a heads up, any bike or car tyre analogies will be lost on me as I don't partake in either 😉)

20201121_142844_resized.jpg

Edited by BlueStringPudding

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3 minutes ago, BlueStringPudding said:

Thanks for your reply. In answer to your question: I don't know. Everything at the business end of the accumulator is being done by feel. The valve of the accumulator is almost butted up against the side of the boat. I can barely get my fingers in there to unscrew the valve cap (and I've got small hands) and am doing so almost blindly. The photo below shows all that I can see.

So given that, what exactly is a valve core? How can I tell if it's loose, please? How do I tighten it if it is loose? And if not, how do I replace one? (As a heads up, any bike or car typre analogies will be lost on me as I don't partake in either 😉🤔

 

 

Unless you have a valve tool I don't see how you can tell if its loose. Do you have a car? If so look at the valve caps on all the tyres, most will be plastic but one might be metal with a very different shape. the top will have a sort of tube on it with a cut out at either side at the open end. This is a valve tool.

 

The tube fits down the blowing up point and the cut outs fit onto flats on the valve so you can screw the valve in or out. Once you see the thing you will realise its not hard to do by feel. So fit the tool and try screwing the valve in. if it twists all well and good, if it won't then unscrew it and fit a new one. I bet if you go to a tyre place and smile sweetly they will give you a valve for free.

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7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Unless you have a valve tool I don't see how you can tell if its loose. Do you have a car? If so look at the valve caps on all the tyres, most will be plastic but one might be metal with a very different shape. the top will have a sort of tube on it with a cut out at either side at the open end. This is a valve tool.

 

The tube fits down the blowing up point and the cut outs fit onto flats on the valve so you can screw the valve in or out. Once you see the thing you will realise its not hard to do by feel. So fit the tool and try screwing the valve in. if it twists all well and good, if it won't then unscrew it and fit a new one. I bet if you go to a tyre place and smile sweetly they will give you a valve for free.

No, I don't drive so I don't have a valve tool. But thanks for your explanation. 😊

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https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/schrader-valve-repair-tool-black-539770371?type=shopping

This is a typical tool. You use the part that has a couple of lugs to remove the core.

From the photos it looks like you would have to break a joint in the pipe that runs parallel to the accumulator then swivel the accumulator to gain access. Turn off the pump first though.

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On 11/11/2020 at 19:57, BlueStringPudding said:

 

Current leaking pump that I'm trying to get a good match for the spec, but it's no longer made (parts may be obtainable for a repair but it's a very old pump):
JABSCO 30620-0292 PAR MAX 4
12v
Flow 14.4lpm
Cuts in at 10psi
Cuts out at 20psi
6A draw
10A fuse

Available To buy:
JABSCO 31620-0292 PAR MAX 4
12v
Flow 16.3lpm HIGHER
Cuts in at 10psi CORRECT
Cuts out at 25psi TOO HIGH
6A draw (on pdf spec sheet) CORRECT
10A fuse (on pdf spec sheet) but contradicted on website as 15A fuse.  TOO HIGH

 

Sorry, late to the party, but I would say these are the same pump. All that has happened is that the current version has been uprated to operate at a higher pressure, and hence to give a higher flow and draw more current in the process. If you can either adjust the cut-out pressure down to 20psi, or use a separate pressure switch set to 20psi, the performance will be pretty much the same as your existing pump. 10A fuses will probably be fine, but you might want to invest in a pack of slow blowing fuses to cater for surge current when the pump starts.

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18 minutes ago, philjw said:

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/schrader-valve-repair-tool-black-539770371?type=shopping

This is a typical tool. You use the part that has a couple of lugs to remove the core.

From the photos it looks like you would have to break a joint in the pipe that runs parallel to the accumulator then swivel the accumulator to gain access. Turn off the pump first though.

I suspect the OP will not be able to get that into the gap between valve and timber baton, let alone remove the valve.

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15 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I suspect the OP will not be able to get that into the gap between valve and timber baton, let alone remove the valve.

Agreed. That's why I suggested breaking a joint in the pipework to allow the accumulator to twist at the tap connector towards the vertical to allow easy access to the valve.

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2 hours ago, BlueStringPudding said:

No, I don't drive so I don't have a valve tool. But thanks for your explanation. 😊

Some bicycle tyres have Schrader valves.

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2 hours ago, philjw said:

Agreed. That's why I suggested breaking a joint in the pipework to allow the accumulator to twist at the tap connector towards the vertical to allow easy access to the valve.

PersonallyI would take a big drill and chisel to the batten.

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On 11/11/2020 at 19:57, BlueStringPudding said:

Yes. I do want to be 100% sure it will all work without more problems. Pretty basic expectations though, don't you agree? 😃

 

But I don't for one minute believe that a pump with a flow of 7lpm or 3lpm will be give anywhere near as decent a shower as one with a flow of 14.4lpm at 10-20psi. That's just common sense, surely? 

 

Trying to compare Jabsco pumps is hard enough, but I've just noticed that the spec on their website is contradicted by the spec for the same model on the pdf. One spec would be an adequate replacement, the other needs a bigger fuse. Which one is a typo? Who knows!? Aargh!

 

Looking at Jabsco 10A only pumps, coz I'm stuck with the electrics I've got, these are the options:

 

Current leaking pump that I'm trying to get a good match for the spec, but it's no longer made (parts may be obtainable for a repair but it's a very old pump):
JABSCO 30620-0292 PAR MAX 4
12v
Flow 14.4lpm
Cuts in at 10psi
Cuts out at 20psi
6A draw
10A fuse

Available To buy:
JABSCO 31620-0292 PAR MAX 4
12v
Flow 16.3lpm HIGHER
Cuts in at 10psi CORRECT
Cuts out at 25psi TOO HIGH
6A draw (on pdf spec sheet) CORRECT
10A fuse (on pdf spec sheet) but contradicted on website as 15A fuse.  TOO HIGH

JABSCO 31395-0392 PAR MAX 2.9
12v
Flow 11lpm LOWER
Cuts in at 20psi MUCH TOO HIGH
Cuts out at 40psi MUCH TOO HIGH
4.4A draw LOWER
10A fuse CORRECT

JABSCO 31600-0092 PAR MAX 3
12v
Flow 13lpm A BIT LOWER
Cuts in at 20psi MUCH TOO HIGH
Cuts out at 40psi MUCH TOO HIGH
Draw ?
Fuse 10A CORRECT

So it's not looking great for 10A fused pumps in terms of psi - and that's not just with Jabsco. Looking at Midland Swindlers 10A only pumps, there's

JABSCO PAR MAX 7l

12v

Flow 7lpm LESS THAN HALF, TOO LOW

Cuts in at ?

Cuts out at 25psi TOO HIGH

Draw 3.5A OKAY 

Fuse 10A CORRECT

 

WHALE PUMPS TOO TALL AND WRONG SHAPE FOR PRESENT INSTALLATION

 

JABSCO PAR MAX 1

12v

Flow 3.7lpm TOO LOW

Cuts in at ?

Cuts out at 35psi TOO HIGH

Draw ?

Fuse 10A CORRECT

 

SHURFLOW AQUA KING 2 JUNIOR

12v

Flow 7.6lpm TOO LOW

Cuts in at ?

Cuts out at 20psi CORRECT

Fuse 3.5A (weirdly low - can't be powerful enough, surely?)

 

All other SHURFLO have much too high cut out psi.

 

(I just thought to check the destructions for the toilet plumbing, as I aspire to have it flushing properly with fresh water one day and I vaguely recall it had a minimum requirement from the water system. It needs a water pump with a flow of at least 11lpm. So that narrows down the water pump choices with one fell swoop - the piddly ones won't work). 

 

So for now, those are my options. None took good to me. A phone call to Jabsco to get them to verify the fuse rating of the 31620-0292 Par Max 4 might be sensible since they haven't answered my email yet. If they confirm it needs a 15A fuse not a 10A, then it looks like I need to try replacing some parts on the old leaking pump. Not my area of expertise, obviously. 😔

A little late into this topic. I've been looking at the Parmax 3.5 13LPM with 10/25psi respectively:

 

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/marine-pumps/fresh-water-pumps/jabsco-parmax-3-5-pressure-controlled-pump-12v?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_term=02254&utm_campaign=MSS&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrOy7lYz07AIVWe7tCh2atwchEAYYASABEgLUgfD_BwE

 

And from MC

https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/jabsco-32600-0292-par-max-3-5-pressure-pump-12v-13-lpm-25-psi-wp-012

 

 

Edited by Markinaboat
PIS instead of PSI!

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On 14/11/2020 at 13:41, cuthound said:

 

You also need to periodically replace the water alarm battery for continued protection. 😁 I replace mine annually. 

Mine chirp when the batteries need replacing. They seem to last a few years

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14 hours ago, BlueStringPudding said:

 

20201121_142844_resized.jpg

 

Why is the pump plumbed in with hard connections? It should be connected with two short lengths of flexible hose to reduce noise and vibration. Jabsco Parmax pumps are supplied with hose connectors for this purpose. Connections in rigid pipe are also more prone to leaks but for some reason that's what we see on 9 out of 10 boats.

Edited by blackrose
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4 hours ago, blackrose said:

Mine chirp when the batteries need replacing. They seem to last a few years

 

Thanks,

 

I'll try leaving one of mine longef to see if it eventually chirps. Could save a small fortune in PP9 batteries.

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