Gear Box Oil

[elr37418]

Could someone advise me which is the best gearbox oil to use on my BMC 1800 diesel marnie engine??

[RLWP]

Welcome to the forum

 

It depends which gearbox you have

 

Richard

[elr37418]

Thanks , fair comment, I will need to check only had the boat just over a week still getting to know it.

[Nightwatch]

I was told our gearbox takes the same oil as the engine. PRM.

[elr37418]

I have a PRM 150 gearbox fitted - R

3 hours ago, RLWP said:

Welcome to the forum

 

It depends which gearbox you have

 

Richard

I have a PRM 150 gearbox fitted.

[cuthound]

10 minutes ago, elr37418 said:

I have a PRM 150 gearbox fitted - R

I have a PRM 150 gearbox fitted.

 

Same oil as the engine. I use 10w40 in mine, CC grade.

[RLWP]

2 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

Same oil as the engine. I use 10w40 in mine, CC grade.

Wot he said!

[Guest]

But, dare I say it, synthetic oil is unsuitable for the PRM150, and only mineral oil is recommended by the manufacturer. According to a recent post, synthetic oil affects the engagement of the clutch.

[john.k]

true.....friction modified oils make wet clutches and wet brakes slip........especially noticeable in a motorbike........oils must also be compounded for flat base ,or non roller tappets.A HD diesel truck or marine oil will be OK,never use a motorcar oil,no matter how many hokey claims are made in the cartoon ads.

[Machpoint005]

Given that the advice directly above contradicts that of the engine manufacturer (well, Beta Marine, anyway) I'd say you should use the same oil you put in the engine. There is a great deal of confusion because the same oil as in the engine might vary from one engine to another (eg "BMC" 1500 or 1800, as opposed to Beta 43 and others with Japanese base engines).

 

In general, API 10W40 is the stuff, but it doesn't necessarily have to be CC spec, which is "not suitable for diesel engines built after 1990". CF is fine for diesel engines built before 2009 (as is my Beta 43).

 

API oil classifications

 

 

 

Edited August 7, 2019 by Machpoint005
typo

[Keeping Up]

There is even more confusion in that the manual that came with my Beta 43 states in two places what oil to use in the gearbox, and manages to contradict itself totally in doing so. Best to do what RLWP says - then second choice is to do what PRM say (although did change their advice a while ago) and third choice is to believe the engine supplier.

[Tony Brooks]

59 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

In general, API 10W40 is the stuff, but it doesn't necessarily have to be CC spec, which is "not suitable for diesel engines built after 1990". CF is fine for diesel engines built before 2009 (as is my Beta 43).

 

API oil classifications

 

 

 

I would suggest that the red bit should read "designed after 1990". I bet there is not any difference between my 1991 Bukh and one built in 1990. The same would go form many engine makes. I very much doubt the manufacturers would change the tooling, clearances and components until they make a new model.

[Machpoint005]

19 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I would suggest that the red bit should read "designed after 1990". I bet there is not any difference between my 1991 Bukh and one built in 1990. The same would go form many engine makes. I very much doubt the manufacturers would change the tooling, clearances and components until they make a new model.

 

Yes, that occurred to me too, but it's yet another complication ...

I'd suggest the Kubota (Beta) engine is post-1990 on that count, but the BMC range is probably pre-1970!

[john.k]

Argue all you like ,but friction modified oil will cause major problems in a boat gearbox.

[Machpoint005]

9 minutes ago, john.k said:

Argue all you like ,but friction modified oil will cause major problems in a boat gearbox.

 

That seems like a sweeping generalisation based on detailed ignorance (no offence intended). Unless you are a PRM engineer, of course.

[Flyboy]

2 hours ago, Machpoint005 said:

Given that the advice directly above contradicts that of the engine manufacturer (well, Beta Marine, anyway) I'd say you should use the same oil you put in the engine. There is a great deal of confusion because the same oil as in the engine might vary from one engine to another (eg "BMC" 1500 or 1800, as opposed to Beta 43 and others with Japanese base engines).

 

In general, API 10W40 is the stuff, but it doesn't necessarily have to be CC spec, which is "not suitable for diesel engines built after 1990". CF is fine for diesel engines built before 2009 (as is my Beta 43).

 

API oil classifications

 

 

 

I have a Barrus Shire 45 (Yanmar core) engine built in 2008, The manual states API 15/40 CD oil in the engine & PRM 150 gearbox. 2008 is a long way from 1990. I reckon it's more to do with emissions of cars, in that the later oil specs have reduced sulphur to reduce contamination of catalysts & particulte filters which boats do not have.

[Machpoint005]

The API specs do say "most engines" ...

[elr37418]

Wow !! head well and truly spinning - thanks for all the replys - So to sum up using the same oil as the engine is fine ? - I only took the boat on a few weeks ago and have just completed an ordit of stuff on the boat - I can only find engine oil - which would draw me to the conclusion that the last owner used the same oil in the gearbox.

[Richard10002]

Any Use?:

 

https://www.prm-newage.com/p12-prm150

 

"The hydraulic operating system functions on normal multigrade engine oil, avoiding the need to use automatic transmission fluid, and ensures rapid response to movements of the operating lever for good boat handling. "

 

Manual:

 

Approved Oil - Sec 4.4 Page 13

 

https://www.prm-newage.com/media/uploads/5050834c6f7e0.pdf

 

 

[elr37418]

Outstanding information - thanks Richard10002 

[Johny London]

Wait till you try and get the level right - trying to see clean oil on a silver dip stick (that has to be screwed fully in before each reading and don't forget not to lose the special washer). Use a bit of tissue or paper but be quick before the oil on the dipstick moves.

 

I seem to remember that the smaller prm gearboxes use a special hydraulic type oil/fluid whereas 150 and up, "same as engine" as everyone else agrees.

[Tony Brooks]

6 minutes ago, Johny London said:

Wait till you try and get the level right - trying to see clean oil on a silver dip stick (that has to be screwed fully in before each reading and don't forget not to lose the special washer). Use a bit of tissue or paper but be quick before the oil on the dipstick moves.

 

I seem to remember that the smaller prm gearboxes use a special hydraulic type oil/fluid whereas 150 and up, "same as engine" as everyone else agrees.

1. The mechanical boxes    use ATF> Automatic transmission fluid, its red and often marketed as Dexron.

 

2. You do not have to screw the dipstick in to get a reading. If you look at it the distance between the maximum line and the minimum is about the same length as the thread so if you rest the threaded portion on top of its hole then the minimum becomes the maximum mark.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

1. The mechanical boxes    use ATF> Automatic transmission fluid, its red and often marketed as Dexron.

 

2. You do not have to screw the dipstick in to get a reading. If you look at it the distance between the maximum line and the minimum is about the same length as the thread so if you rest the threaded portion on top of its hole then the minimum becomes the maximum mark.

True. Even easier is to make a matching wooden dipstick and paint it matt black. A screw though the top to form a "T" makes sure you dip to the right level. Obviously, bung the proper one back in when done. Job's a goodun.

 

This are the oils I generally use in my 150 box (and engine) depending on where I am at the time https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/233 or https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/15w40-engine-oil/?521776111&0&cc5_246

I used Asda's own brand mineral oil for many years which was excellent (Mobil I am told), but they only do the synthetic stuff now.

Edited August 11, 2019 by Guest

[Johny London]

Why on earth don't the manufacturers provide a little dipping tool like that!

[Guest]

2 minutes ago, Johny London said:

Why on earth don't the manufacturers provide a little dipping tool like that!

You would wonder for the sake of a few pence.
Same when I bought a new Vetus stern seal, I had to make a guide to get the seals safely onto the shaft using a discarded milk container. 
The Radice seal that I fitted more recently was about one third the price of the Vetus item, and came with an insertion tool (no sniggering at the back.)