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  1. Hi there! My sealed lead acid batteries are nearly six years old and unfortunately they won’t hold their charge so Ive done a lot of research and just bought two AGM deep cycle 150aH batteries to replace my current two 200aH lead acid. My battery charger is a fairstone ABC1230 Fully Automatic 5 Stage and I’m pretty confident they’re compatible. My last fear is that I haven’t changed my starter as it’s still in good health but it is lead acid. Will having two battery types negatively effect the health of my batteries?
  2. As the title says I have a BSS due in a few months and my main worry based on my reading of the BSS document is my battery container. It is currently a plastic box large enough to hold 6 batteries that sits on a tray on the swim. Someone replaced the leisure batteries at some time before I bought the boat and put only 3 in instead of 5. So there is a 2 battery space at the end of the box. There is nothing holding the box in place other than the weight of the batteries and the massive connector links. The box seems to be a replacement for the original which was just a wooden board in a recessed rectangular frame, approximately 15mm x 15mm angle iron. Reading the BSS document the batteries need to be fixed in place and unable to move up to an angle of 45 degrees. I cannot see any suitable cages or boxes online so will probably have to make my own. Does anyone have any ideas? Is wood suitable? Should I use all metal? What is a suitable way of holding the batteries down bearing in mind the ends are blocked by the connecting wires. See picture below. At the same time I am wondering if I need terminal covers. Currently the plastic box has a lid and the decking is just above. I have bought the biggest terminal covers I can find but they don't even come close to fitting the massive link cables, ~20mm diameter, or the various other 'always on' wires attached to the terminals. Is there an alternative method of doing this? I'm thinking of using some sort of rubber sheet fixed with cable ties.
  3. Our boat has two banks of batteries. One marked Inverter which the 240 runs off. The second marked domestic which the 12 volts runs off. The boat is only used in the summer months. There are solar panels fitted. In 2019 new domestic altinator fitted. In 2021 new inverter altinator fitted. The inverter batteries were new in 2021. Arrived at the boat today to check everything ok. Both battery readings on the panels were 14 volts. I started the engine to check everything is running ok. The battery reading on the inverter bank went up to 15.5 volts. Knowing this wasn't good for the battery I switched the engine off. On knocking off the engine the reading went back to 14 volts. Any ideas? Thanks
  4. Hello lookking for some advice, I started my boat today and for around 2 hours was all fine. I turned it off for an hour then decided I wanted to take her out. So restarted the engine after 30 mine I smelt burning and could see smoke coming from the starter and it was red hot. after I let it cool I had a tinker around with it & thought I’d start it to check everything was all okay.... my problem is that when I turned the Isolator switch on the engine started! The engine key wasn’t even turned on! Can anyone explain to me what is wrong or why this happened?
  5. Hi all, sorry to jump on this but you guys seem to know what you are on about. I have just installed a NASA BM1, I have 2 110ah batteries connected in parallel (connected neg to neg), wired up correctly with NO other negatives on the batteries part from the wire to the black and white side of the shunt. When everything is turned off the battery is displaying discharge of 0.01amps and when charging it goes pass 100% (to roughly 105%). I have a 100w solar panel installed (it’s giving me 0.4amps of charge due to living in Yorkshire with crap weather this time of year). The neg from the solar is also Connected to the yellow end of the shunt. Should the neg from both battery’s be connect to the black and white end of the shunt or connected together with one wire going to the black and white end? Is all this right? Have I done something wrong. Thanks in advance everyone.
  6. Hi all Just thought I'd post a battery build that I've written an instructables guide for. I wanted to build a portable battery that I could charge at work and take to the boat to relive some of the usage on the boats battery system as its a little outdated and I'm not ready for the system redesign. Its working nicely running all my low to medium voltage equipment and means I'm not enjoying anyone in the evening with the engine noise and smoke. see the link below if your interested and your thoughts would be most appreciated https://www.instructables.com/12V-Lithium-Ion-18650-55ah-Portable-Battery/
  7. Can you put a 12v battery onto an inverter and put a battery charger from the same inverter so it loops and provides a continuous charge. I live on a narrowboat and pondering the question. Thank you.
  8. From the album: Battery Setup

    Corrected 24v setup
  9. Juno's outboard needs a new starter battery - the old one was my car battery (now departed VW Golf) that had ceased to be in the car when I couldn't rely on it any more, so not that surprising really. What does the forum recommend to start a Yamaha 9.9 long leg outboard? I suspect any small car battery will do the job but would welcome confirmation. The present car doesn't need a new battery. so it won't be a hand me down (although I guess there may be logic in replacing the car battery and cascading the old one - car is a rover 214)
  10. Hi. I want to build a strictly leisure battery bank with two 70Ah batteries and 2500watt inverter that will be used only for things like kettle, low power microwave, digital gadgets like phones and laptops, maybe cool box from time to time. I do not want to connect my new leisure bank to the boat's engines and intend to charge it by petrol generator only. I have an area near helm where I can place batteries and inverter - like a wooden box/cupboard. My question is... do I have to ground the batteries and the inverter? Thanks, t.
  11. I have recently bought a narrowboat with a semi trad stern where the engine lives under deck boards at the stern. The boat had a battery charger fitted in the cabin that led back to the battery bank in the engine hole via a length of wire that had been cut and joined in several places and as a result was about 8 feet long and then crocodile clips to attach it to the batteries as needed. Having had to use the charger ashore it transpired that it was dead and I have invested in a very snazzy thing with the intention of having it permanently connected as it says it was suitable for this. Reading the instructions it says that if doing this you need to remove the crocodile clips and replace them with rings. No problem with that. It also says you should not extend the wires as the voltage drop would make the unit ineffective - I also understand (I think) why that would be. The charging wires are about 3ft long and wont reach from the cabin to the battery bank. So I am thinking of locating a 240v socket in the engine hole and connecting the charger there. Only thing is do I then run into problems if gas is given off in charging and the presence of diesel etc? In an ideal world I would put the charger in the cabin and then I can see what it is doing without disappearing in the the engine hole. Anyone else had this problem and what solution did you come up with? Thanks
  12. AvE explains battery repairs using epsom salts (some language you might not want your mum to hear) and why it rarely works. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAD_mTtcKSM">YouTube</a>
  13. Is there a way to have leisure batteries automatically isolated when they fall bellow a specified charge? Having the lights go out would be a good fail-safe to know when to charge them up again. Our setup is as follows: BMV-501 battery monitor Victron energy multi plus inverter EP Solar, with MT50 display Many thanks in advance Pete
  14. Just had some repairs and service done on my Lister SR2 engine after it completely packed up and have now noticed that the batteries are reaching up to 17volts when at full throttle with the battery selector switch set to ‘both’ or position 1 (leisure batteries). If I select position 2 (starter battery) then it is around 14v as normal. Both sets of batteries have taken quite a hammering recently with the number of times the engine had been cranked prior to the repair so did wonder whether a fault had developed on one of the leisure batteries causing it to over charge? I then disconnected the batteries and checked the voltage and they were all around 13 volts. I always keep the batteries charged on shore power but it seems strange that it would register such high voltage so was thinking more likely the alternator. As far as I’m aware it wasn’t touched when the repairs were done as the injectors and fuel system were causing the original problem. Any help most appreciated. Wakes.
  15. When connecting a new bilge pump direct to the batteries, my spanner accidentally touched the the hull whilst loosening the positive battery terminal. This resulted in a small, but very definite spark, which puzzles me. I didn't think there was any contact between batteries and hull, so why would I get a spark? I do not have any shore power circuits (do have a small inverter though). Does this spark indicate something might be wrong? Any enlightenment would be appreciated.
  16. I have recently been given a Victron battery monitor BMV600 and am looking to add it to the boat. The installation of the shunt seems simple enough if you have one battery but with a bank of three domestic batteries there are options available and I am concerned to choose the best one. Looking at the current wiring of the domestic batteries it doesn't seem that the batteries are currently wired in the best configuration (though I'm not sure about that). I'm aware of the Smartgauge site and Option 2 where the positive and negative 'take-offs' should be diagonally opposite one another and that seems to be what I have presently (1st image) Intuition suggests that the alternator connections ought to be made in a similar sort of way but that is not presently the case; they being connected to the middle battery of the three. I'm thinking that the shunt should be added with some minor changes (as shown in image 2) but am not at all sure about this. I've looked at info about alternators/charging/etc on this and other sites but have not found any info that gives me the confidence to proceed with this change. Any comments would be most welcome. There are two alternators on the Isuzu engine which appear to charge the starter and domestic batteries separately. Thanks in anticipation of some helpful advice
  17. My starter battery has gone belly up (showing 6.5v so guessing 3 dead cells but I'll save that for another thread) and the Bukh DV36 manual recommends an 88ah battery which I have duly ordered. As yet I haven't worked out what killed the battery but it's always bothered me somewhat that both start and leisure banks are isolated by a single 2 pole switch on the negative side, this means I can't isolate just one bank. Now I know I could swap this out for a 3 position switch but that would be a major ball ache so am going to add a separate isolater switch on the starter battery side which will then allow me to switch off just the starter battery and leave the leisure bank on. Since the boat rarely moves from the marina there's no reason why the starter battery needs to be permanently connected and by isolating it i can prevent any drain between the 2 banks - not that I have any evidence yet of this happening but since I'm fitting a new battery I may as well take an extra precaution. So the question is, can I put the isolation switch on the positive side or does it have to be on the negative? Thanks David
  18. I'm continuing to sort out the wiring in my engine bay and have successfully rewired the VSR to charge leisure first rather than starter, removed a pile of cables that had been left behind by previous owners adding/removing bits organically, added fuses where there were none, and isolators where I would like them - hoorah! The last thing I would like to do is add an isolator switch to the starter battery and am wondering what rating this needs to be. According to the Bukh manual the starter is: Gear Driven 1KW output. So, would that roughly translate to 1000/12 = 83amps, and is that continuous or is the cold crank current likely to be say double/treble to get it moving? The switch I was going to use is rated: Rated at 300A continuous (1 hour) at 48V DC and 1000A for 5 seconds. Thank you
  19. Hi. Firstly, we are CC's with no hookup. I have a Victron 12/3000/120 inverter charger, Victron BMV602s battery monitor, 110amp alternator, Honda 1kw generator, Victron 30amp solar controller with 3x 100w solar panels. I have fitted 4x new Yuasa 115amp hr batteries. These are set as first set had faults within a few weeks (from Halfords are the batteries). When I charge the batteries from alternator, the BMV shows about 70amp initially and over a few hours reduces down to about 5-6 amp tail current. Charge voltage is about 14.3 volts. The BMV shows 100%. I always leave the engine running longer to see the tail current low as possible. I sometimes use the Honda generator to top up the batteries making sure they reach float status. Although the BMV shows say 70amps used since 100% charge and SOC still says about 90% charge, the battery voltage is down to below 12 volts. We have a 240v fridge freezer (new) running off the inverter plus some TV, led lights and phone charging, the actual current since last recharge (from the BMV) is correct I assume? Could it just be duff batteries again? Any ideas?
  20. I'm sure everyone remembers my poor charging regime and the lengthy thread that ensued. I'm still using my set of somewhat reduced capacity 4x110ah batteries - a couple hours engine running in the morning, a couple in the evening, and then switch off the 240v (including fridge) at night. This gives me enough laptop time in the evening, led lights and various pumps etc. So, for now carrying on quite happily - but I have noticed a new phenomenon creeping in lately. Today for example: I ran the engine for an hour or so when I got up (with 240v back on as normal). I then cruised for 3 1/2 hrs. A couple hours later, and my batteries are already back down to 12.3v so I have fired up the engine again. What I am saying is this - it would appear that the leisure batteries are not getting much (or any?) charge when I'm cruising. I can't think what this could be but I'm sure someone will enlighten me - be gentle! Just to re iterate - I know the batteries have reduced capacity, but a couple hours charging off the engine normally sees them up to say 12.8v which lasts all day or all evening. Even on longer cruises, they don't seem to get as much charge as when the engine is just running in neutral. I have two alternators, 50a for engine, 175 for leisure.
  21. Hi all, We currently have 3 x 125ah leisure batteries powering the fridge, lighting (mostly LED) and water/waste pumps. The bank is charged by a single solar panel through an EPSolar MPPT charge controller. This was fine during the summer but with winter fast approaching we are finding that come the morning there isn't enough juice to power the pumps for a shower. We are mostly marina based so would like to add in a mains charger to top up the batteries once night falls. Electricity is metered so would only want to charge from shore power when necessary. Currently we achieve this by attaching a car battery charger using crocodile clips - it works but isn't a viable long term solution. The charger only has trickle or fast charge and is manually selected. I was also a little wary that I might be sending current to the solar panel instead of away from it, but it hasn't blown up yet So, my questions are: Is there such a device available that I can connect both the solar and a 240V charger to and it automatically selects which input to charge the batteries with, prioritising the solar? Maybe even with automatic health programming to allow the batteries to discharge periodically to keep them healthy? Failing that, if I just get a decent 240V charger that automatically switches charge mode, will there be any problems permanently connecting that directly to the batteries in addition to the solar, and just turn it on when required? Or should I connect them via, say, a rocker switch to manually change from solar charging or 240V charging? What fuses would be required? Can someone recommend a decent multistage 240V charger? I'm sure I'll think of something else as soon as I've posted this, but it will do for starters :-) Thanks in advance.
  22. We currently have four 6 volt leisure batteries and they seem to be in a bit of sorry state, with one of them bubbling acid and therefore potentially dangerous. Two of these batteries are Trojan T-105 and the other two appear to be cheaper unbranded alternatives. Due to other ongoing expenses on the boat we're looking to replace these with minimum cost and are thinking of putting in two 12v batteries instead. I'd be grateful for any advice on this and recommendations regarding specific batteries that would be suitable alternatives. As far as i understand the Trojan T-105 batteries have a very high 225ah capacity, giving us a total capacity of 450ah if replaced like for like, compared with probably about half that if replaced with two reasonable quality 12v alternatives, but I suspect we could probably get away with this. We've only been boating for a couple of months and it would be interesting to read the advice of others and to learn what set-ups they use themselves.
  23. So.. for the last few days our engine has been kicking out white fumes from the exhaust and seeming much noisier from it too. So thinking it could be water in the fuel I drained both fuel filters and continued on our way. The smoke returned 15mins into cruising and even spat out a little black when going astern into the locks. So We gave her a rest. By the morning our starter battery didn't have enough charge to turn over the engine and we had to charge it from our genny. Even tho we have the starter isolated all the time when not running? The battery isolator is new from amazon? But we remove the key so surely that cannot drain it? today we charged the starter off the genny and eventually got her started. She blew white smoke for the hour and a half cruise to bedwyn and we stopped. We decided we could try checking the valve clearances, not easy as we couldn't find the tdc for each valve. But then after only 2 hours moored the engine again wouldn't tick over! And each time the key turned in the ignition you could watch the battery voltage dropping on the starter and even on the leisure battery readers. we are baffled! I am guessing they are two separate issues, the smoke and the batteries draining. But it feels so coincidental to all happen at once. any advice or ideas would be great. Or anyone near bedwyn on the k&a willing to help would be great too!
  24. Just a shout to the battery experts on the forum. I know it's not a boat, but my firend's mother's car would not start so I went round to jump start it. out of curiosity, I put a voltmeter on it just to see what it said.. it said 9.1V ! I don't know if it is any special type (eg Calcium silver.. or bog standard Lead) but at 9.1V, is it likely to be trashed ? The car did jump start OK, and was left running for 20 mins before I had to go. She did take it for a run later that day and it started OK.
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