Froggy

That's interesting because both pumps are Par Max 2.9s, admittedly of different vintage, and the potable water pump is noticeably noisier. Its ok, i have the original cover, i simply removed it for the photographs.

Ok, thanks, noted. As a temporary solution though, to save cash in the short term, i might have to bypass the Square D if it malfunctions again.

Ok folks, armed with the advice from this thread i took a closer look at the weekend. There was power going into the Square D but none coming out. However, when i pressed the contacts together the pump came to life and then operated normally for a few cycles of opening and closing a tap before playing up again on a couple more occasions. On closer inspection it looked as if there was some stubborn dust on one or two of the contacts, possibly remnants of spider web. I've cleaned the contacts up with some wet and dry and sprayed some WD40 into the works and things seem to be working normally aga

Ours sometimes kicks in for a second or two. We turn it off at the panel switch at night to avoid being woken by it. But ten seconds would shift a lot of water so that would suggest, as others have said, a leak.

No, this was just a hypothetical situation where i had determined for certain that the existing pump was at fault and i had to replace it. I guess there is nothing to lose, as you say, in trying to bypass the cutout switch on the existing pump (which is well out of warranty since it was on the boat three years ago when we bought it) to see if the pump comes back to life. Thanks also for the additional information you provided re. the wiring setup and the effects of cycling, it has clarified things and it would seem that there is probably little to gain from replacing the pump, if t

Thanks again for your help everyone. Tony, I had a quick look at the accumulator and didn't notice a car type valve (the body is metal and i simply removed the nut on the top) but then i wasn't looking for one so will have another look over the weekend. So, given what blackrose says above, perhaps once i have got a working circuit i could adjust the cut-out pressure at the D switch or reduce the pressure at the accumulator to prevent cycling, or am i missing something here? The original fit-out of the boat did include a Par Max 4 (or at least, that's what the manual says, but i hav

Tony, many thanks for your detailed response - and also to everybody else who has contributed. I'm going to have a detailed inspection of the pump and switch over the weekend taking your comments into account, and will report back because it's the least i owe people who have taken the time to respond. I have a simple multimeter, and also still have the old toilet pump, which was removed due to leaking seals but still operated when i removed it. Unless there is a fuse within the motor then i don't think there is a fuse involved in the circuit, the 12v wiring in the boat uses circuit

Hi Our potable water pump is inoperative. It's the one on the left in the photos. There's no life in it at all. What are the chances that it's definitely the pump, or could it be one of the other components in the circuit, and if so what would be the best way to identify the faulty component? I'm pretty sure it's not the on-off switch on the control panel because it worked briefly when turned back on and then failed without this switch being operated again. The pump wasn't used for a few days in hot weather, so is it possible that it could be something as simple as an airlock? The pump i

I'll try to look in this evening, especially if there's some real ale going.

1 hour ago, TheBiscuits saidaid: Ah, but did you ever name the expansion bottle? I suggest calling it Ed Urtank. 1 hour ago, TheBiscuits said: Ah, but did you ever name the expansion bottle? I suggest calling it Ed Urtank Ah, it's pretty clear that you lot have very little to do atm so have wandered over from the Skippers Wanted thread.....

Thanks, but this has now been sorted as per later posts in the thread.

I guess i should have known better than to have stirred the pot!

Thanks. I've taken a chance and ordered a copy of the manuals; if they help me to see how they are put together it might make it easier to take a few panels off to reach the thermocouples and thermostat. I probably wouldn't remove the thermostat myself but i can at least check there are no obvious mechanical issues with both that and the thermocouples and give everything a good clean up. As for the GAS website, you are right, their prices are very good, but unfortunately everything they list is shown as out of stock! I doubt they will be getting more in. Fortunately, there are still a few

I think i was spared those!

Just as i thought. This is still a very silly thread.