Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Froggy

  1. That's interesting because both pumps are Par Max 2.9s, admittedly of different vintage, and the potable water pump is noticeably noisier. Its ok, i have the original cover, i simply removed it for the photographs.
  2. Ok, thanks, noted. As a temporary solution though, to save cash in the short term, i might have to bypass the Square D if it malfunctions again.
  3. Ok folks, armed with the advice from this thread i took a closer look at the weekend. There was power going into the Square D but none coming out. However, when i pressed the contacts together the pump came to life and then operated normally for a few cycles of opening and closing a tap before playing up again on a couple more occasions. On closer inspection it looked as if there was some stubborn dust on one or two of the contacts, possibly remnants of spider web. I've cleaned the contacts up with some wet and dry and sprayed some WD40 into the works and things seem to be working normally aga
  4. Ours sometimes kicks in for a second or two. We turn it off at the panel switch at night to avoid being woken by it. But ten seconds would shift a lot of water so that would suggest, as others have said, a leak.
  5. No, this was just a hypothetical situation where i had determined for certain that the existing pump was at fault and i had to replace it. I guess there is nothing to lose, as you say, in trying to bypass the cutout switch on the existing pump (which is well out of warranty since it was on the boat three years ago when we bought it) to see if the pump comes back to life. Thanks also for the additional information you provided re. the wiring setup and the effects of cycling, it has clarified things and it would seem that there is probably little to gain from replacing the pump, if t
  6. Thanks again for your help everyone. Tony, I had a quick look at the accumulator and didn't notice a car type valve (the body is metal and i simply removed the nut on the top) but then i wasn't looking for one so will have another look over the weekend. So, given what blackrose says above, perhaps once i have got a working circuit i could adjust the cut-out pressure at the D switch or reduce the pressure at the accumulator to prevent cycling, or am i missing something here? The original fit-out of the boat did include a Par Max 4 (or at least, that's what the manual says, but i hav
  7. Tony, many thanks for your detailed response - and also to everybody else who has contributed. I'm going to have a detailed inspection of the pump and switch over the weekend taking your comments into account, and will report back because it's the least i owe people who have taken the time to respond. I have a simple multimeter, and also still have the old toilet pump, which was removed due to leaking seals but still operated when i removed it. Unless there is a fuse within the motor then i don't think there is a fuse involved in the circuit, the 12v wiring in the boat uses circuit
  8. Hi Our potable water pump is inoperative. It's the one on the left in the photos. There's no life in it at all. What are the chances that it's definitely the pump, or could it be one of the other components in the circuit, and if so what would be the best way to identify the faulty component? I'm pretty sure it's not the on-off switch on the control panel because it worked briefly when turned back on and then failed without this switch being operated again. The pump wasn't used for a few days in hot weather, so is it possible that it could be something as simple as an airlock? The pump i
  9. I'll try to look in this evening, especially if there's some real ale going.
  10. 1 hour ago, TheBiscuits saidaid: Ah, but did you ever name the expansion bottle? I suggest calling it Ed Urtank. 1 hour ago, TheBiscuits said: Ah, but did you ever name the expansion bottle? I suggest calling it Ed Urtank Ah, it's pretty clear that you lot have very little to do atm so have wandered over from the Skippers Wanted thread.....
  11. Thanks, but this has now been sorted as per later posts in the thread.
  12. I guess i should have known better than to have stirred the pot!
  13. Thanks. I've taken a chance and ordered a copy of the manuals; if they help me to see how they are put together it might make it easier to take a few panels off to reach the thermocouples and thermostat. I probably wouldn't remove the thermostat myself but i can at least check there are no obvious mechanical issues with both that and the thermocouples and give everything a good clean up. As for the GAS website, you are right, their prices are very good, but unfortunately everything they list is shown as out of stock! I doubt they will be getting more in. Fortunately, there are still a few
  14. Just as i thought. This is still a very silly thread.
  15. Can you really have too much antifreeze though? Maybe just adding a higher concentration sufficient to make it visible would work. Magnets are really useful things, no doubt. We've had about 8 button batteries lying on the boat for about a year waiting for a use. All but one are tiny, about 7mm diameter, but extremely powerful, so much so that a considerable amount of force is needed to separate two from each other. A few days ago i found a great use for a couple of them. Now we've left the marina and the shoreline behind the two things that clobber our leisure batteries are the tv (too b
  16. Hi, thanks for your help. I noticed the manual but am not prepared to pay the price. It's a user manual by the look of it and therefore not going to show how to disassemble parts. I'm now guessing that service manuals are deliberately withheld from the Web to discourage the inexperienced (that's me!) from tinkering around with dangerous gas appliances. Is GAS an acronymn, i can't find it? I've now found some decent prices for the parts, the lowest for the thermostat is around £104 and the thermocouples below £10 each (even the control knobs are still available for about £9 each), but sinc
  17. Wouldn't it just be simpler to drain the coolant and replace with a coloured anti-freeze?! You're not likely to need much for a diesel heater circuit.
  18. I will still be looking to get to the gas jet for the oven if i can easily remove the burner assembly. It's got to be worth a try to potentially save the cost and hassle of fitting a new thermostat. However, it is beginning to look likely that the grill issue is due to a thermocouple that has broken down rather than the jet. We wouldn't be able to afford it right now, have had all sorts of expense on the boat and are also currently dealing with the Mansfield Traveler loo (as per my Shurflo thread, but even when the flush motor has been replaced, hopefully this weekend, the ball seal an
  19. We can actually cook on hours (although not sure i would chance it with raw meat or fish), you simply allow 4x the stated cooking time and the food is hot and cooked through. 2-3 hours is a long time when you're hungry though! We've lived with this for best part of a year, although my other half is a very keen cook and would love to replace the cooker if we had the money to spare. However, the grill thermocouple has only just exhibited a fault. This would be really annoying if you couldn't keep the flame alive especially as, given the fault with the thermostat, the grill gets used more than it
  20. Ah, so what you seem to be implying is that i could remove the hob top panel (without disturbing the hob burners) and that this would give me access to the top of the oven assembly including the control valves? And if, as the .pdf diagram suggests, the oven thermostat is directly connected to the oven control knob (presumably the oven valve is part of the thermostat assembly) then this is also accessible (even though i wouldn't replace this myself if it is directly connected to the gas supply). Incidentally, the .pdf document is the correct document for our model, which is why i posted it.
  21. Ok, thanks, this is a big help, but i don't think i can get to the other end without removing the oven from its housing. Wouldn't i have to disconnect both the grill and oven gas supply pipes to do this? It's something i wouldn't be prepared to do since it would surely invalidate our insurance policy. I'm sure you're on to the source of the problem though, because i noticed that the flame also cuts out if, once alight, you push the control knob in again and release it abruptly.
  22. Ah, a new word for the day! Lateral thinking. Always best to look for worst case scenarios imo. Sods Law has a habit of creeping up on you when you've got your head turned the other way enjoying the tranquility of the moment!
  23. It's amazing how popular these BMC units seem to have been with boat fitters. Seeing yours makes me slightly more confident that our boat's fitters were at least bodging with some knowledge! That label looks ok to me, but if you can remove the top layer of it and then gently scrape the layer underneath to break it down a bit, some sticky stuff remover might finish it off. Well i'm going to bask in the glow of (relative) newness for the time being, Bizzard. No doubt there is rust lurking, because when we checked for antifreeze in the middle of winter shortly after bu
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.