philjw
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Everything posted by philjw
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Would this have been a location where boats were guaged? A lot of little bothy type buildings around the system seem to have been shelters for the guager.
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I guess they should know what plate is the improved version of the number quoted. I didn't know about the three stage versions. I'll look for the paperwork for mine and see what sort it is. It's needed replacing for a while now.
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This is where I came in.
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You are right. This has been discussed many times and replacement is the usual answer, perhaps with repair the old one and keep it as a spare. Leaks are usually from the joins in the body. Most people do not suceed in curing the incontinence. Jabsco pumps are frequently used as replacements. If you are living aboard then 6 years use seems pretty good.
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Still looking like the supposed 24V alternator is goosed. As we have already said it is imperitive that the new batteries get some charge shoved into them ASAP, probably off the boat. I would be taking th alternator to be tested. This occured to me as a possible explanantion but I wasn't sure it would work.
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Quite so. I am intrigued to know how the split charge relay, possibly 2 relays, would be wired to charge both 24 and 12V batteries. If the starter were to be 24V and is separate from the domestic I would expect two engine batteries. The OP talks about "the engine battery". Perhaps the split charge relays are something else?
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How would this work then if the domestics are 24V and the engine 12V? Would this not mean that when the relay is energised the full voltage of the 24V alternator would be applied to the engine battery?
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I met a grass snake in the water on the other side of Braunston on the South Oxford a couple of years ago. It was swimming really well. I think this one is also a grass snake not a Burmese Python.
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Not with the weight of the engine sitting on them. Loose would mean that there is a gap between the engine bracket and the top nut. If there is a washer below the top nut and you can spin the washer then it is loose.
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Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component
philjw replied to MartinV's topic in New to Boating?
Which bolts did the yard tighten? There are two sets, one which is nuts on studs at the gearbox output flange end and bolts at the prop end. The prop end ones need to be really tight and done up in the right order. I would have another go at getting these ones done up properly. Don't overtighten the ones at the gearbox end though - these are steel studs threaded into alloy so will strip easily. -
You should be able to feed charge to both batteries from the charger by connecting the charger positive to the same battery terminal that the alternator is connected to. Negative to the common negative. Check that the negatives from both batteries are connected together. Don't rely on crocodile clips, use crimped on ring terminals. If the alternator feeds the domestic battery then if this is position 2 on the switch just the domestic battery will be charged on position 2 but both batteries at the both position. It's possible that the fuse in the charger lead has blown - check with your multimeter.
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Has anyone tried cat litter for this job? Sounds like it should be absorbant like sawdust.
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Run the nearest hot tap to the machine until you get hot water through to ensure that you miss the cold water that has been laying in the hot pipework.
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Canal lateral a loire + a general book question
philjw replied to magpie patrick's topic in History & Heritage
Have a look if you can at Hugh McKnight's "Cruising French Waterways". I've just been reading about the very region that you are interested in in that book. It is not a full on history but does cover some. -
You will probably need to lower the temperature of the hot water to, say, 40 C to be able to use the lower temperature programmes. It's likely that an engine heated calorifier will be at a much higher temperature. Some calorifiers e.g. Surecal have built in thermostatic mixers to reduce the delivered water to a safe temperature but if yours does not you may need to fit one.
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Modern washers with electronic controls don't like anything other than pure sine wave inverters. If yours is a modified sine wave then you will need to look for a machine with mechanical / clockwork controls. Ours is fed with water at around 40 degrees from a thermostatic mixer valve for wash and rinse. The inverter is 2.2 and copes well. It could also handle the heater before I added the thermostatic valve but took a lot longer for a wash.
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If there is a chandlery that you could visit you should be able to recognise what you need. Last time I changed pigtails I didn't need to think about it, just picked up the standard item off the shelf.
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It's interesting that all of the castings seem to be broken in the same place. This looks more deliberate than accidental to me and I would have thought that it would have needed something heavier than a windlass to break that thickness of cast iron, brittle as it is. The gear was designed to drop slowly so once the ratched was released there would be no need to en-engage it again. Another one of those mysteries lost in the past.
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You can still see the remains of the ratchet ring around the spindle where you place the windlass on some of them. They were much flatter than the rack and pinion ratchet wheels on, say, the Grand Junction locks. I still wonder why they are not still in use.
