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DrunkenDonkey

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DrunkenDonkey last won the day on March 17 2016

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Floating Around

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  • Boat Name
    La Mariposa

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  1. Yes there is an oil dump at my local marina too. Free for anyone to use.
  2. Thanks for all the replies guys, I think it is going to have to be a death by a thousand cuts type of solution. A bit of everything. I did try cat litter before but you have to be very prepared to get rid of it all quite quickly. I wasn't and now I have pebbles everywhere. I probably didn't use the best kind of cat litter either... I'm thinking the sawdust and wet vac is a good shout. Do you think the wet vac will be a lost cause afterwards, even if I use something to soak the oil up first?? I originally thought to just suck it all up wet with a wet vac but that would for sure kill it. Once the majority is out, I'm then planning the white spirit or some other solvent to break up and remove the last of it from the metal, then oleophilic pads should bring the solvent and oil up together I would think? With liberal elbow grease. I'm really keen to get this sorted before summer, have my automatic bilge set up and let the heat take care of finishing the job off for me as I suppose I'm fighting a losing battle at this time of year. But I'd rather do it now than wait until summer and have it get wet again in winter. Once clean and dry I can then use the summer to work out where the leaks are coming from and finish the job! Just had a slightly odd idea, but if I soaked some saw dust in white spirit then applied it, would it then act as a kind of "poultice" that I could brush around and scrub the sides with to break it down and soak it up at the same time? (Taking fag breaks at the bow end )
  3. The 5l of gunk I already used did seem to help somewhat... it's so messy though I can't tell what is working and what isn't apart from looking at the sludge that I'm getting out of it. Looking in the bilge it is getting dryer and dryer, but the black doesn't seem to be shifting at all. Bad time of year for it as well to be honest! It might even be that the inside of the engine bay has been blacked and that is obscuring any cleaning I am doing, I really hope not because getting that up will be a nightmare, but there is definitely some rusty patches that need attention so I am hopeful of getting back to bare metal... one day....
  4. Even bilging out what I have done so far has been precisely a "disgustingly dirty job" so I'm not expecting it to be fun. I just want to know that something will work before I invest in products or tools.... I did like the washing powder route just based on price!!
  5. Morning all, So this is another of my jobs that should have been dealt with long ago, hasn't been and is now a much bigger problem than it needed to be! My bilge is dirty. I mean. DIRTY. Or maybe it isn't as bad as it looks to be fair, it generally isn't where oil is concerned as it floats on top and gets everywhere. I would love to know exactly where all of this dirty engine oil has come from but half the battle in that respect, is getting the bilge clean enough to see where new oil is coming from or if it even is any more. I have the feeling an oil filter burst and let a lot of oil into the well underneath the engine. I left the boat for a couple of weeks recently and I came back to find the bilge very deep with water (prompting me to try fixing the packing gland in the previous thread). This has picked up the oil from under the engine and spread it throughout the entire bay (cruiser style by the way). Now that the majority of liquid has been removed using the bilge pump diverted into bottles, I am left with a horrible sticky black film over every bit of metal surface. I poured a whole bottle of gunk into the bay and let it soak for a few days before pumping out, I think it has helped somewhat, by looking at what has come out, but the bay still looks exactly the same. I'm aware this will involve plenty of elbow grease, whatever I do, but do you guys have any suggestions for getting the oil loose from the metal. I was thinking something along the lines of... White spirit and scrubbing to loosen it, then was thinking some oleophilic pads would bring up the white spirit along with the oil? Or washing powder and lots of scrubbing. Or how about a steam cleaner, or pressure washer, wet vac etc. The main problem now is that it is so sticky I don't think a wet vac would touch it, probably going to need some kind of solvent. As you are all aware I'm sure, there are many hard to reach places etc. so would really like a solution that will destroy the grease without needing to much agitation. Any ideas?? At present I'm looking for any solution that will work, price be damned, just looking for ideas really or a place to start.
  6. Thank you all for your help guys. UPDATE - Success!! Backed the nuts off about a turn, ran in gear fore and aft for a few minutes, then left it in fore for about 15 minutes on low revs. Started seeing a dribble, then a bit more than a dribble! Turned the engine off, flooded the gland with grease then tightened back up (much slower this time) until it just stopped dripping. I'm amazed that it seems to be almost perfect now. I don't get a drip when the engine is off. I get a drip about every 30-40 seconds when in gear and the housing is staying cool when in use. Thanks again, this forum and the contributors have been so helpful to me, even when not actually posting myself.
  7. Good advice, I wouldn't have thought to do that, thanks!
  8. Hi Pete, So the main issue I had was after backing the nuts off, it still wasn't dripping and the pusher could just wiggle back and forth between packing and locknuts. My theory and what I will try next was as BWM had said, to loosen it up a bit but then put it in gear for a bit and see if that brings some water through. I do have an automatic bilge but after a recent engine oil problem I can't turn that on until the oil is cleared. Always something to do... Next paycheck, packing AND oleophilic pads...
  9. Yeah I have been considering that. I had a really good relationship with the last EO but he has been promoted recently and I have no experience with the new guy at all. Definitely worth a shot though. I mean, I can't afford packing, there's no chance I can dock it and fix a damaged prop shaft or get a reconditioned gearbox!!
  10. Thanks for that Bizzard, I was going to try measuring outer and inner shafts and subtracting but that is much simpler OldGoat, I have been using a lot of grease hoping it might swell it out again, but that doesn't appear to be making any difference. The packing isn't expensive, but I'm totally broke for a couple of weeks unfortunately. It's just normal packing.
  11. No drip at all though! Even in gear, that was what got me concerned in the first place. I have since learnt to read instructions before carrying out procedures. It has only taken me 30 years which is pretty good by male standards I would say. RTFM... Thank you, this is what I wanted to hear. Want to give that a go but don't want to make matters worse.
  12. Thanks for the responses guys. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little bit nervous about repacking it, but I'm happy to give it a shot. I'm more worried about the interim few weeks before I can get the bits I need to do it. Yes, I'm concerned about the gearbox as well as the prop shaft. I will have to move along again at least once before next pay day. I don't think the packing has gotten itself stuck anywhere, just a feeling, as if I put it in gear with even a tiny bit more than tickover, it doesn't stall and after it has run in gear for even a few seconds, I can take it out of gear and back in no problem, so to me that seems more like it's a little bit tight and maybe I have been overcompensating with the grease. As the grease warms up it loosesns a bit and it's fine. I was hoping there would be some trick to make it expand again, but I was already leaning towards the old packing having gone stiff
  13. Hi guys, Can't post a picture at the moment, but I have one of those basic packing glands with a bolted in piece that needs tightening up every now and then to push the packing down. The other day I tightened it up and have gone too far as I now have no drip whatsoever, whether in gear or not. I also now have to give the engine a really good rev when it first goes into gear or it stalls, so I'm guessing the prop is so tight it slips on the gears. On the other hand, I can still turn it by hand relatively easily and it doesn't get REALLY hot. I mean it feels probably too hot. I have seen a "warm cup of tea" being an indicator. Well it's more like a fresh cup of tea, I can hold my hand on it for a couple of seconds before it feels too hot to grab. I am pretty sure I will just need to repack it now as it is the same packing that was in there (new) when I bought the boat, about 5 years ago. However, I literally can't afford the few quid I need to get the packing for at least a few weeks. My questions are, is this likely to be bad enough to damage my prop shaft if it remains like so for the next couple of cruises and secondly (and more importantly) is there anything I can do to correct it even temporarily until I can afford some new packing? If I loosen the bolts now, the fitting just slides out there is no "spring" left in the packing. I was wondering if I could loosen it slightly, run it in gear and try to "push" the packing back out? Could this work, or is it likely it has just gone hard and useless now and will stay like it is.
  14. I have the same set up and yes there is absolutely water ingress behind the panel going by the amount of orange in there, however it seemed pretty dry at the mo. I will end up taking the multi connector off first I think and see if it starts working wired up directly to the gauge. The engine cabling is just horrendous at the mo so I'm sure I can't make it too much worse!! :')
  15. Ta Catweasel, I'll keep them in mind. I tried e-mailing Thornycroft for a manual but had no response, might try giving them a call. The base was a K4D if I have correctly ID'd it now and I have managed to get hold of the spec sheet for that, so most of what I need is in there, but if I want to get more technical it would be really good to get eyes on the T80D manual itself. The condensation thing is a good shout too. I get quite a bit inside the gauge itself. I think I'm just going to have to attack the wiring a bit and see if I can get it any life. The thing that concerned me most is that it was slowly getting worse and worse pressure for a long time, before it started to show 0 constantly. That to me sounds more like an actual pressure issue than faulty sender etc. But hopefully I have had 2 separate problems and the pressure has improved with the filter change and the gauge has it's own fault somewhere. ?
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