Eeyore

They did use the S3L2 in their T75 model, but the smaller ones were L series. A secondhand mower engine (as already mentioned) is likely to be the cheapest option. A nice picture of the broken engine would be nice....

Just for orientation; are the white 5 litre containers on top of the domestic battery box? and is the 12 volt panel on the other side of the bulkhead to the rotary switch? You’re going to love dealing with all that insulating tape ? I see some interesting things on the 230 volt ac wiring. I’m not sure that wrapping three singles in tape is the same as using a 3 core flex ?. There is also a selection of different coloured singles at the top of the consumer/protection unit suggesting both old and new colour coding systems in use?, there’s a label for that! There are also some issues with the proximity of the 230v ac and 12v dc wiring, but easily resolved.

That really is all you need to do for now. Get your self a torch, notepad and pen; and spend some time to find out where everything is on your boat. It really isn’t like owning a house, the more you can find out for yourself the easier things will be when it comes to spending your money. Watching a tradesman spend hours of chargeable time just tracing the system before they can actually start the job you asked for is not what you want. They will of course have to verify things, but that’s a whole lot cheaper. You could do worse than to start with the four thicker wires emerging from under the rotary switch; top left, up the right side, draped over the blue box and down the side of the blue box. Are the battery wires connected directly to the batteries, to the battery side of the battery isolating switch or to the load side of the battery Isolating switch? This sort of information would allow forum members to see if it would be safe to recommend the relocation of one wire on that rotary switch to give you peace of mind that the alternator would never be disconnected.

This looks interesting https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/16598-sealey-cp20voskit-cordless-orbital-/ They are probably the product of the Austrian company Walters. The one I have is fitted with a slightly smaller 1.5ah battery. You should find that it tires at about the same rate as you, so no mater how you feel on the day the machine won’t let you overdo things. Takes 125mm dia Velcro attached discs, and like all cutting tools works best when sharp/new. Change the disc regularly (as already mentioned by others) and let the machine do the work for you. edit: bit cheaper from these guys on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-CP20VOSKIT-20V-2x2-0Ah-125mm-Cordless-Orbital-Palm-Sander-Kit/233300756306?epid=4032744361&hash=item3651cf0752:g:xP4AAOSw1exfDAy8

Very unlikely to cope with smaller diameter alternator pulleys; but specifications do vary.

Same as a belt marked A50?

Yes the descriptions are the same, it’s just that mine has 4 separate inline fuse carriers in different locations, just poking out through gaps in the flexible conduit. They never were, or could have been attached to the relays as shown in the picture. I’m ok with which is which, I just wonder how other owners were meant to know. ?

Thanks for posting the link. In a perfect world the manual would also show the identities of the four inline fused scattered about the loom on my 06 build, but ha ho. (Yes, the starter control fuse is 25 amp)

While we wait for Barrus to respond to the OP.............The online Barrus parts books list the 15 amp fuse as applicable to all models. (I checked the 35, 38 & 40 models) They do not list a 25 amp fuse!

Other engines do use a relay in this way, in a wide variety of applications, not just marine. Vetus show it as engine mounted on some of their diagrams, but no fuse. Beta recommend it’s use (as an option) to overcome volt drop on long extension looms; using a Lucas 33ra style 60amp relay and a 40amp fuse. You might wonder if the fuse is chosen to protect the relay contacts, someone with more knowledge than me will be along shortly to offer comment on that.

The good news is that there is only about 50mm between the inline fuse carrier and the terminal in the relay base on my spare build 06 engine, and likely to be a similar length loop between the interlocking fuse and relay holders on later builds. The 06 (and earlier?) builds having the fuse carrier so close to the relay base means that there isn't room (or need) to rejoin the loom inside the flexible conduit that Barrus use, so the separate feed from the fuse to terminal 30 on the relay base is very easy to inspect for damage. A possible area of chaffing damage is on the wire from terminal 87 on the relay base to the solenoid where chaffing is possible where it passes inline connectors (used to attach the inline fuse carriers to the loom) inside the flexible conduit. The same may not be true for the later builds that use the interlocking relay base and fuse holders, however the wiring is going to be very tight under there; making it much more difficult to inspect.

Do not be tempted into fitting a larger fuse. According to the diagram you posted the wiring is rated at 14 amps and protected by a 15 amp fuse! The fuse is doing its job in diagnosing a faulty solenoid.

I’m going to stay with my original suggestion. By all means do a bit of maintenance around cleaning connections and maybe changing the relay on a preventative maintenance basis; but none of these faulty things will increase current flow. Get your very expensive (used to be Hitachi) starter in for a service; and ask them to pay special attention to the solenoid, although I’d just have a new one fitted. Lumpy water boaters are generally advised in to have electrical machines serviced annually, flat water boaters usually wait for them to break. Planned preventative maintenance is much more than just oil and filters.

I’ll have a look at the diagrams when I’m home from the boat later today. First thought is an intermittent, slightly “sticky” starter solenoid. The use of a relay is common enough, as the ignition switch is on the small side; but I don’t know of anyone else putting a fuse in the solenoid feed.

Having read your “engine” thread I for one was hoping for a happy ending to your first foray into boat ownership; the kind of ending where you go back to the seller and demand your money back. Please take a step back and reassess what you have got into before committing to spending any more money. You’ve already spent a large sum of money on a 42 year old boat with a 12 month old survey identifying £5k worth of hull work, possible engine damage, and now a rewire. There really is a point where taking the lose and selling this one on will cost you less in the long run.

A picture showing the engine ends of the two hoses indicated by the yellow arrows might be useful.

In a positively pumped circuit it probably makes no difference. I am however having some difficulty with the concept of hot water rising as it cools. Not the version of convection I had in mind. Hot at the top allows convection to work in parallel (same general direction of flow) as the pump. The engine water pump, as has already been said, is realistically only “giving an invitation to circulate” in what is invariably a much larger system than it was designed for; and needs all the help it can get.

As do Barrus. I think the term “top hose” exists for a reason, it’s just another form of heat exchanger after all.

Waiting for more photos then.

Is it my imagination, or is it plumbed “upside down”? I’m sure I can see the gearbox cooler connected to the top of the keel tank, and the other hose to the bottom of the tank.

This one works ok, you can use a micro usb charger to power it onboard. I use a power bank type battery via the usb when out and about, I Velcro the battery to the back of the radio. I found the power bank battery near the tills at TK Max. https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/goodmans-dab-radio-black-3497461

Go along to your local horticultural/agricultural machinery supplier and ask for their opinion on engines by Kubota (used by Beta) and Kioti/Daedong (used by Canaline). Then repeat the exercise at your local plant machinery supplier. The type of usage is different, but you should get a general idea of reliability and longevity; from which you can calculate a very crude figure for cost per hour of anticipated life expectancy. Or you could just buy a Beta 43 ?

Here are some images of my Nanni N2.60. On the first image zoom in to see the repair to the front left mounting; similar to the OPs? Also note that the front mounting bracket, as built, is quite a long way back; making the installation front heavy. New heavier gauge brackets have been fabricated and fitted, and the engine mounted on stiff mounts. The gearbox is fitted with a centaflex coupling, and there is a separate thrust bearing on the shaft. Runs quite smoothly, but I'm monitoring the situation to see if it can or will break the new brackets. The second image shows the engine reinstalled on new bearers, the thrust bearing is just visible at the bottom. Note the spacer blocks beneath the mountings to ensure the engine does not sit too high on the mounts.

Not sure how that works, as the old unit was wired to a shunt.

Very much what I was going to post. Coolant will take the path of least resistance, so even with the thermostat open it will still find it easier to circulate around a small loop, causing overheating, rather than to flow to the keel tank (or whatever cooling arrangement your engine has in place). A piece of suitable sized bar and two jubilee clips to join the cut ends of the hoses is the simplest solution. You could of course find blanking plugs to replace the hose connections on the engine, but then you would have to change them back if you fitted a new calorifier.