Ex Brummie

I have a Bubble with back boiler that runs a gravity heating system. I also have a circulator (pump) wired into a pipe stat that I only use when first lighting the fire. Set to 60c, when the boiler gets up to 60c, the pump switches on and moves warm water, switching off when the temperature lowers. I leave it switched on for about 30 - 45 mins, by which time the water is able to sustain its own cycling a lot quicker than if left to do so from scratch.

I had the same problem last year and found it before the BSS test. It was the taps, and the gas detector was sounding at a test from 3 of the hob injectors . I disassembled the gas rail, and each tap and liberally used the correct gas tap grease, reassembled and still the same. Gas grease really only works where the spindle is on a taper that can be drawn in to accommodate wear; the Vanette taps were just screwed flanges. The big problem I had replacing the hob was modifying the hole in the worktop for the Thetford hob as the fixing screws wanted to go where the work top was cut out for the old hob, so I had to screw blocks in but making sure the holding screws did not impede the hob screws.

These come in all shapes and sizes from small with short fat hairy legs to longstreaks of tinribs. They all have the ability to dump rubbish that will block an Elsan.

Just a thought, how are your batteries? A reduction in voltage can give this symptom, and we're getting to the time of year when battery charge may lower than in the summer.

Not quite true. Whilst the casing looks the same, the innards can differ depending on the calibration of the unit and the fuel it is designed for.

It seems one of my replies has got lost in the ether, maybe vapourised?😉 Diesel vapourises at about 75oC, and you will not get a pool in the pot once it has warmed up. Kerosene vapourises at about 38oC so this is why it performs better than diesel, but its calorific value is less than diesel. I had mentioned about the catalysers, the various rings and meshes in the pot. I'm not sure what is in the Refleks, but the Bubble has a small mesh cage covered by a cone of wires supporting two rings. These help maintain a consistent temperature in the pot and will glow red. As I said before, the big problems with non performance are air leaks in the combustion chamber which stops the natural draw through the burner perforations.

Once you have established that you have a clear supply to the oil control valve (OCV), looking at the top of the valve, you will have the flow rates depicted in cc/min. Disconnect the outlet pipe, and check that the flow rate is at the prescribed levels. You can get a measuring cup/spoon from a chemists as they are within similar ranges. In checking this, let the fuel run on low for a minute or so and then check the rate. Repeat for the high flow rate. Ensure that the delivery pipe to the pot is clear, then reconnect to the burner pot. The fuel level into the burner will be approx 1/2"/15mm. so the level mark on the OCV will be at this level above the base. As the mounting plate for the OCV is a substantially fixed to the stove I doubt if this will need attention. You also need to establish that the burner pot to stove base plate is airtight. Any leaks here will impair the flue draught through the burner. Likewise, the door seal and top seal should be sound for the same reason. When lighting, place a piece of fire lighter or tissue screwed up in the centre of the pot, switch on the fuel to full and when the fuel reaches the tissue, light the tissue/firelighter, replace the catalysers and turn down the fuel to halfway. Leave the door ajar so that the combustion for about 10 mins until the flame, although wispy, is established. Then close the door and you should see the flame turn blue with maybe some flicks of yellow at the tips. if the flame is still yellow and dirty, then you have either clogged up holes in the pot or a leaky combustion chamber or a totally inadequate flue. My Bubble works perfectly well with an internal 4" flue of 4ft and a chimney outside of 20". I use a piece of 4" s/steel pipe in the collar with a normal narrowboat chimney outside of it. I also have a swedish cowl fitted onto the 'inner' pipe of the chimney. I tend to scrape out the pot near the inlet port before lighting each time, takes about 1 minute, but I can leave it running for weeks on end if I so choose. They are simple appliances, and if you do the simple things right, they simply work. The distributors of the oil control valves have been known to say the biggest problem they have with their products, the Toby valve, is the nut on the end of the screwdriver used to tamper with the flow rates. If you feel the need to fettle the flow rates whilst the burner is running, then be aware that nothing is instant. adjust by about 1/4 turn at a time and wait 4-5 mins between adjustment.

I never have a problem breasting up if the lock landing is obstructed with hire boats. Just be careful if the deck boards are up. The main problem comes when timid people wanting to come off the Shroppie feel they have to stop at the water point and then take an age to come in. Also, they take the p*** sometimes when turning boats and ignore people who want to come through.

I seem to recall previous threads about the positioning of teapots and the orientation of their spouts had some significance.

When I serviced oil boilers, I always used to remake joints with a wrap or two of ptfe tape and supplement this with Heldite. Red hermetite, and its replacement red Hylotite are non hardening sealants, better suited to gas joints.

I am (un)fortunate enough to have to undergo regular medical treatment, and each time I am presented with a 'satisfaction request form' I am asked if I would recommend the hospital to friends and family , as if there is an alternative. I only complete the 'other comments' box to the effect that the cost could be spent on treatment, and the personnel employed on this pointless activity could be better directed to patient care. The C&RT surveys are much the same as this, except it seems that there is probably a department that only commissions , sorry 'outsources' the pointless exercises, thus adding to the cost unnecessarily.

As one who in his working life traversed narrow country lanes, when boating, I adopt the strategy of being the one who is able to stop. I assume there is someone around every bend or through each bridgehole and will stop. It doesn't always avoid collision, but at 2mph instead of 5mph or so it is a lot less violent. When we don't crash, it is nice to be the one in the right position rather than up the bank or in the trees.

And I thought that 34 years ago, the builder of my boat had just welded 2 steel plates with a bump in the middle to take the tiller rod.

I've accepted that current manufacture from China is nowhere near as reliable as previously. My slide seals all seem to go porous after 18 months when a part of them becomes open cell like a sponge.

Many years ago whilst on holiday in France, we used a restaurant that greeted us with an aperitif of Cassis topped up with white wine. The maitre told us that any old wine will do as the cassis would overpower it. in the supermarket on the way home, we bought a couple of bottles oc cassis and picked up a case of Bergerac for 9 francs, about £6 at the time. Once home, we tried said wine before mixing it and it was some of the best we had tasted. This goes to show, I think, that taste is subjective, natural products can never be totally consistent, borne out by the relevance of vintage batches.

But if you've only got one switch, you'll know what it's for.

Surely these things need to be where they can be seen as they give you essential details of the performance of the system. An engine bay is not the place.

if he buys the ransom strip, then boats will still be liable for end of garden moorings. You have to go back a long way to the deal done when the canal companies agreed to forgo these rights for passage through land.

Surely Red ones signified an element of hazard, stood out against any background. But then, some jobsworth has to attempt to justify his non job.

You have paid a surveyor for a report and his advice. With the best will in the world, all the keyboard surveyors cannot equal the conclusions of the professionally accredited individual you employed' If you like the boat and feel it is a reasonable deal with or without a discount, taking into account the cost for the recommended work, then buy it. If you don't feel that way, then don't. Have you seen many other boats to give you a better insight? Maybe you need to look at a few more.

Once poxy celebrity chefs started to ponce about with sausages and EU edicts started to specify minimum meat content, the absolutely necessary ingredient, cereal, (or breadcrumbs) virtually disappeared. This stopped one being able to cook them properly with a nice brown skin and firm textured inner, flavoured with the natural fat from the meat. In post war rationing sausages eked out the meagre rations and were the staple of many meals. Pricking the sausage was done to stop them splitting, but pricking 'boutique' sausages just leaves you with a wodge of fried mince and veg/herbs which to me are like the kings new clothes where the majority are cajoled into seeing what others want them to see.

The reg plate may represent a boat that spent a long time on the Thames or other EA waters that has recently come to CaRT. If it is the boat that harangued the OPand it is as common an occurrence as others have implied, then he won't know which of his combatants the OP is. If it is the boat that another poster 'passed too close to', then with outward opening windows I can understand his worries. such windows on a boat are stupid.

I'd be quite happy with a few £10'sK. But seriously, when my long term bonds expired with NS&I, I transferred them into premium bonds and have doubled at least the interest I could have earned tying up my pot for 3 years. That's a lifetime at my age. I can still get to it when I want.