Ex Brummie

I use Morris Multivis 15/40. It is semi synthetic, meets the manufacturers spec. and I never have to top up between oil changes. Mineral oils to the same specs are O K but avoid the cheap versions. Perkins last 'for ever' with a regular oil and filter change regime.

As Dor says, squeeze the cover and it releases. Surprisingly tight, but it does come out.

The 'Autherley Armada' has ventured forth, together with the 'Yellow Perils' from Gailey. Surely spring. Lifted the deckboards today to find a mouse nest in the engine compartment. Busy little devil was not there on Tuesday, but this is more of a harbinger of Autumn, but it was cold last night.

Alternatively, find a suitable chimney, which sits over yourcollar, then purchase a single length of 4" stainless flue pipe, together with a male/male adaptor. Fit the adaptor to the flue pipe and secure with a couple of self tappers. Place the adapter end into the collar and you have a double skinned chimney. Just be aware that when removing, you have two parts. You can make it into a single unit by using another pair of self tappers through from the inside of the inner pipe onto the outer chimney so that they spice the inner tube from the outer, and the friction holds them in place.

And I thought my BSS examiner was picky over my painted over filler cap signs!!!!

Personally, I drain off and flush a couple of times every couple of years. it is amazing how much sludge comes out. It was left longer than this at one time, and to drain out both the Bowman and the block required clearing through the drainholes. If the amount of sludge does build, then obviously the cooling in those areas is compromised.

I use one, the 75ft. The only problem, if it is one, is that you need to jam something in the filler cap with the hose to stop it shooting out. Also, I find I need to hold its open end, turn on the tap and then walk to the boat with it running otherwise the end flies about like a wild snake and soaks you.

Don't forget, the BSS test will measure pressure drop with all appliances running. What cooking arrangements will you have? An oven, grill and 4 rings plusyour Morco will seriously test 10mm/3/8" which is what I assume you are terming microbore. Over 4 mts. My system just about copes with a 15mm main run.

I have a D61cfitted in my boat, and have had an instantaneous heater for 30 years. IMHO, this is the best form of hot water as it does not require the engine to be run, and is more than adequate for showers etc. Mine is not room sealed, but fitted before the last regs, so you do not have that same option. The one problem I can see is that the flue outlet may not comply with the Manufacturers Instructions, and therefore not be BSS compliant, as it will be exiting into an enclosed space and may be near too close to doors and windows.

Check on BSS regs as to where you would be able to fit it. The usual one seen on boats or caravans is the smaller D61. The F-11 needs mains electricity .

For how long could you say 'Siemens Staines' to complete strangers?

I would first check with the engine manufacturer if you are unable to identify the originals. You do need to change at least the pair if one has failed. Beware of Chandlers who say any thing will do; they may ask if you require hard or soft. My originals were R & D, and I fell into the trap of buying 'engine mounts'. I did a little more digging and found the manufacturer, who specified against boat length, engine make and model and gearbox. The front mounts are different to the rear mounts. I have Aquadrive, so alignment was not so critical, but with a 'doughnut', you will need to disconnect the drive, and carefully line up the two flanges before reconnecting.

Beware of thinking your gearbox oil is clean just because you hardly see it on the dipstick. Put a flexible tube on your suction pump and suck out from the bottom. You will be astounded!!

As it is posted in the New to Boating section, I wonder if the OP has a new (to him) boat that has had a water tank painted before he bought it. Bituminous paint of the wrong spec will seem like diesel.

If you cannot find a drain, then you could try fitting a self cutting washing machine tap to a low point on the pipework to use as a drain. You can leave it in place, or replace with the real thing when the system is drained.

As above, but carry a couple of spare sealing washers, they have an annoying habit of falling out and you don't realise it until you are at the next tap.

Approached sensibly, there is no problem. You can see from one passing place to another, and if one waits in the narrow just before a passing place for an approaching boat to reach it, then you can pass without having to stop. Of course, sensibility does not come naturally to a lot of people or the paranoid shiny boat brigade, or the tailgaters or the misguided hirers, so there are often some interesting incidents.

Consider a double skinned chimney, but insulate between the two skins. What length of chimney do you have, inside and outside measurements? Do you have effective ventilation? A stove can only draw what it can inhale. What fuel are you trying to burn? Unseasoned wood will not draw efficiently.

Square D has always been the industry standard for pressure switch applications in fluid applications. When the flimsy unit built into your pump fails, this hardy unit will replace it, and still be effective for years to come. A big advantage is you can set your own parameters to suit your installation.

If you look at the last licensing form, it is usually stated on there. My Perkins 4108M is rated at 28bhp, as being governed to 2,100 rpm, it will not reach the sort of ratings stated/achieved by many of the marinised conversions that will still rev to 4,200 rpm. At 28 bhp, it still has more than enough capacity to tow another boat on the odd occasions it has been needed.

And you need a seat like the Star Ship Enterprise to turn to see the extremities of your new panel, and a forward lookout to see what you can't whilst perusing all that information. Whilst cruising all you need is Rev counter, ammeter/battery meter, oil and temp gauge, and tunnel light and horn switch. All the other goodies can be kept nice and dry on an internal panel, alongside the electrical isolators.

Do you only get the smell while the stove is running? If it is all the time, whilst it is off, do you have a small amount in the pot? If so, then the metering column is passing and may need a new seal. If it is only while the stove is running, it could be coming from a failed stuffing gland seal on the decoking lever.

Do you have a mid engine compartment or is it at rear? You say it is slower with a full water tank. If there is any water in the engine bilge, it may be migrating from there but slower if the stern is higher.

Don't forget to factor into the cost of a gold licence does not qualify for easly payment discount, so unless you are spending several weeks it is not cost effective.