Ex Brummie

I would think pump pressure is borderline. How far away from the pump is the heater?

No, The OP has a rusted up burner already was what I intended to point out. We must all read things differently.

Think of the cost saving on a repaint!

If the burner was rusted up, there is a good chance the injectors are fouled up, especially if you have been brushing round them to clean them. Best case to send to an expert for recon/ part ex.

At a time when Pallas Athene was a visitor at our boat club, I don't recall the boat as being anything smart or even tidy. A small amount of TLC will improve on my memories. The man did nothing for 3 days apart from trying to reduce his ballast by offloading copies of his book. (Along with a load of inappropriate rubbish in our domestic bin, and an early morning attempt to perform a prohibited self pump out in our toilet)

This fitting is essentially a tap connector. This would be sealed by a 'pilock' washer; a narrow fibre washer that seals against a flat face as in a female threaded 1/2" -15mm coupler. Using a normal fibre washer or rubber washer can be restrictive to flow.

30 years with Aquadrive. I've repacked twice.

I made a version of the sump box, with a length of 4" soil pipe, capped off at the bottom, with a hose adapter screwed into the pipe at low level. This sits vertically so that the open top is higher than the shower/bath, and a small submersible pump is dropped into it. The outlet is pumped to the basin waste. All controlled with a switch mounted in the bath panel. A periodic withdrawal of the pump enables cleaning, and the basin waste gives a visual ( and audible ) monitor of working.

How is the Paloma integrated with the calorifier?

The problem may be pressure differential between the 2 feeds, if the cold is fed by cold water half way down the boat, and the hot has to travel all the way down, through the calorifier and half way back up the boat.

If they come for nothing, then there are 3 considerations. 1. Cosmetic preparation. 2. The potential loss of headroom by 2" (or so) especially if putting extra lining on them. 3. Ease of fixing to bearers.

There was plenty of water feeding in at Bradeley at the weekend. There does not seem to be much difference in the drained canal except that the rubbish is lower down.

I had this problem 2 years ago and discovered that the clamp on the flexi hose into the lift pump was letting in air when the pump sucked. Gradually, the air would rise back into the agglomerator causing an air lock. After the fourth engine failure, I just about saw the most minimal dampness at the joint. If the fitting turns in the hose, this could be your problem. I bought some hose by the metre, a couple of jubilee clips, and ground the compression clamps off. The old hose had very fine cracks under the compression clamp. Spare hose and jubilee clips are now part of my spares kit.

Stretton Wharf are very adaptable in handling unusual requests.

The sight of the corroded expansion vessel shows why a fresh water one , either white or blue, should be used. Red ones are for primary water in heating systems where they only show symptoms like this when there is a leak on a system and fresh water is continually introduced.

If your PRV is not leaking, then leave it alone. Operating it manually, if it has been in some time, is likely to dislodge something that does not yet leak, but it will do after that and will need replacing. Are you sure you don't have a leak from this?

Are you sure you can run this on 35 sec oil. Check the Manufacturers Instructions. I think you will find that they are designed for 28 sec (kerosene) oil. Running on diesel may need burner modification for preheating fuel, and the flue implications need to be investigated.

If we all use these, what will be left for Pandas to eat? They are already in short supply.

And you also need to install a cylinder/ calorifier that will stand the pressures of the water system. A standard domestic one will not.

Frost damage can cause the screws holding the water section together (the part with the diaphragm in). If this is the case, make sure they are replaced with the right items as they are designed to shear and protect the water section.

Try phoning the lock keeper. They are very knowledgeable about the river

Just remember, the only thing that works on an old boat is the owner!!! Seriously, the Dandy is a super little craft, and significant water ingress in any cruiser is often down to the canopy, and it invariably finds its way under the main cabin. If you have lots of water after taking the basic precautions, then a lift out or slipway can let you get the hull checked. If it only appears fitfully after you have mopped it up, then it isdoubtful if there is a big problem. A leaking hull will be consistent with time, irrespective of the weather.

Don't be fooled. It is treated like a local by many, and have you seen the state of golfers when they have finished a round? Portions are proper sized too!!

You know what you find under a pony tail?

This is a safe mooring, and there is plenty of it. I think you will find this is no longer a Vintage Inn, and the name has changed back to 'The Anchor', as it was before Vintage. If the pub does not suit your needs, walk down to the bridge and walk the short way to the Three Hammers Bistro which is part of the golf course. Good food and a fine selection of beer.