Ryeland

I didn't bother trying to fix to the cabin sides. I built out from the below gunwale battens to secure the bottoms, and used a ceiling batten hard up against the tops. I think if was doing it again, I would do the same but add PU40 sealant as well. I wouldn't like to rely on sealant and the primer, it relies on both the primer bond to the steel and the sealant to the primer. Richard

As you have changed the oil, have you turned off the valve on the sump pump? Mine can pass some oil if it's not turned off. And has the little cap on the pump outlet been replaced? Richard

But you have to find a suitable bit of pipe for the valve with the flow in the upward direction, so the flap valve closes by gravity and stops the reverse flow. A flap valve is not the same as a (spring loaded) check valve. Richard

I've never had to bleed my 38 after a filter change. Just crank it until it starts, then it will stop again. Crank it again, until it starts. repeat as required! Soon ends up running. Richard ETA Need to prime the filter with the manual pump on the engine first.

I have heard today from someone who has had his prop with Crowthers during the lockdown, that they will not be reopening again. What sad news from such a good company. Richard

I really would't use white undercoat. I think it won't give any depth to the red. Grey is usual undercoat colour for red, though I have been able to buy red undercoat before. Sorry can't remember what brand. Richard

IIRC the correct tapping drill size is 4.2mm, 4.5 won't leave a lot of thread. Richard

Veneer pins, pin hammer, then punch below surface and fill holes. The filler will never be the same colour, but with veneer pins the holes are so small it doesn't notice. Richard

25mm Celotex/Kingspan will bend quite well. Richard

I did say BEFORE FITTING, so when you fit them the tape is already trimmed. Richard

I just used tape that was a bit too wide, then ran a knife around the edges before fitting to give a clean edge. No problems in 10 years, and no need to mess around with sealant. I don't have any issue with moss etc growing on it. Richard

55hp is a huge engine to be working through a PRM120. For example Beta only fit it to the 38, not anything larger. Are you sure it's a 120? A photo would help. Richard

I read somewhere, possibly in another thread here, that the pressure can be 300psi for a short time. Regarding positioning, the 'official ' position is on the manifold. The sump pump is moved along towards the rear, leaving room for the cooler. The easiest way would be to buy the cooler, bracket, and pipe to the engine from Beta, which would all easily fit on. Then you need to pipe back to the skin tank, and here you're on your own! Look on Ebay for silicone pre made bends. You need a U shape on the cooler, and probably a 90deg on the tank, plus hose and joiners to connect them together. Richard

Those male- male adapters don't seal on the threads, but on a copper or bonded (Dowty) washer. I can't see that using PTFE tape should have caused the split though. I have just replaced the PRM120 gearbox in my own boat with a hydraulic PRM150, and the oil cooler was a bit of a nightmare. There is a bracket for the cooler, hydraulic connections, and worst of all diverting the skin tank return. Don't underestimate how long it takes! (And the cost). Richard

Metric cable was introduced around 1970. I still have odd bits of imperial, in fact came across some 7/.029 this morning. More difficult to install neatly on the surface with clips than 2.5 as it was more flexible. Richard

The fuse in the plug is to protect the flexible cable attached to it. The ring main cables, two each rated at roughly 20A, are protected by the single 30A or 32A fuse or circuit breaker in the consumer unit. Richard

I've had recent problems with brass screws corroded stuck in my windows. I've found that I can loosen them enough to use a screwdriver by hitting them quite firmly using a flat punch. It seems to break the corrosion. Then wiggle them both ways with a screwdriver and gradually work them out. Yours look like Posidrive heads. Make sure you have a good, preferably new Posidrive screwdriver, NOT a Phillips one. Richard

How about connecting the pipes to the opposite sides of the pump, disconnect the old output pipe and put it in a container of clean water. The pump should then clean out the pipe. Richard

A couple of small magnets with screw holes (eBay) will hold the bottom rail as long as it is steel. Richard

They have been M3.5 for the last 40 years or so. 4BA before that. Richard

You can put permanent bends (curves) in 15mm plastic pipe using a heat gun or boiling water to heat the pipe. Bend it round something like a big paint tin and secure the ends until it has cooled down. It will relax a bit but not too much. I don't think that flexible are designed for constant high temperature use. If you do use them try and get the ones with 13mm bore. Many are much smaller bore. Richard

When we took our 58ft up to Ripon, we met a 60ft coming down the locks backwards as they didn't fit forwards! Richard

That's just reminded me that I used one of these for my cooker top. May be useful for the OP. Toolstation 44251. Richard

I've had Treadmaster for 11 years now on top of paint with no problem. It is however the plain type not self adhesive, fixed down with a high quality clear paintable sealant, probably polyurethane. I forget now what it was, but it was removable when wet with white spirit, so easy to form a nice fillet seal around the edges which helps to keep the water out. Richard

I had my shell at home, outside my workshop and store. I spent 5 months say 6 days a week to get it to a basic stage of completion, still lots of trim to be fitted, no stove etc. I too spent lots of time thinking about how to do things. Richard