Leaderboard

really do not see why you would pay,until made to do so .think the whole thing is a minefield to try and enforce.

When you get to the edges pulse the switch on the torch, let It die for a second then press the switch again, repeat as needed - it will reduce the current without having to fiddle with the set - you won't loose the arc so no need to worry about that. Ram plenty of filler rod in at the same time too. Thick to thin you need to aim the tungsten more at the 3mm plate - your tilt angle needs to be more like 50° than the normal 45° for a fillet weld of same thickness material. If you start to see the pool run away just before a hole forms let go of the switch and shovel filler in like mad, it helps quench the molten metal, with practice you can avoid it blowing. You doing fine though mate, keep it up

We have not heard anything from the Police. Sorry I do not think anyone has been found, thanks for all. Very best wishes to one and all.

Basically, we hadn't a hope in hell of making it work. The problem wasn't and isn't the boat, it's jumping through the hoops to get the business license. With two of us, a single boat and our mooring the operation couldn't meet the requirements Richard

Thank you all for replying! Interesting comments

I know, quite well, a student who lives on board at Sawley. His boat is 40' and he is on a leisure mooring. Technically, he has to leave or take the boat out every four weeks, but this is easy to do: he only has to take the boat a short distance away. His total costs, as he's told me are considerably less than staying in student digs or residence halls, and he's adamant about this. Also, he can go home during university term breaks so this shortens his overall stay at the marina, and of course, it reduces his utility costs. I should think that a 30' boat could be just right for you, and that could give you a mooring fee of ca £1500 p/a. I'm a research fellow at Nottingham and I stay at Sawley on a leisure mooring, but I'm only there for ca two weeks at a time, followed by two weeks at home in Wales and so on. I live on a Norman 22, and I've found it comfortable (the electricity for an oil filled radiator is quite cheap!). In fact, if you want inspiration on living in small places, I recommend that you google sites on van living, tiny houses, and shanty boat living; also sites that deal with living aboard sailing boats. At these types of sites you'll find a very broad range of people's experiences dealing with 'small space' living. I recommend that you go down the boat route, it will be cheaper than digs. If I had to take a room in a house in Nottingham/Beeston, it would cost me about £60 per week (before utilities). That's more than £3k p/a and three times my annual mooring fee. Go for it, it's totally doable!!

If it means more whiskey for me, then by all means, help yourself!

The shore inlet on your boat will be more than likely a 16amp one, if you are updating to 32amp this as well as the shore cable and the cable feeding the consumer unit will need uprating. If you have a Victron Combi or any other make, they are usually wired in series from the shoreline to your consumer unit, if this is a 16amp unit then uprating anything would be a waste as this is the limiting factor unless you put a switch in to bypass it. (and then you lose th advantages the Combi gives you)

Should have read white I wrote as I missed out the word MCB but you get the idea. If any cable/sockets are designed for 16amp but supplied by a 32amp shore feed you can add a 16amp MCB at your consumer box that the shore feed goes through to feed your other MCB's. It will then protect the upstream cable/socket if you overload them. The limiting factor may be a Isolation Transformer or Combi as these will be at whatever rate, but then if you have any of these your limiting the shore power anyhow!

Bank of Dad helped me out, he's pretty good, and the interest rates were very favourable. I don't think he's doing any more lending unfortunately.

The same was posted yesterday and Chris and Graham confirmed that as far as they know, nobody has been arrested. So this is almost certainly untrue.

Industrial grade sodium percarbonate is pretty hazardous. If you are going to use it at least read the MSDS sheets and don't smoke! It's used to make explosives and should not be stored in or near combustibles. And don't mix with any other cleaning chemicals.

It's quite easy to rewire a consumer unit so one of the (or additional) is the feed from the shoreline and feeds the others.

If you want to upgrade to a 32A boat system you would have to review (and most probably replace) all the cabling in the boat. With 16A boat systems it is common to select cable to sockets etc that can handle 16A but not much more. If you wanted to upgrade to a 32A system then you would have to bear in mind that a spur feeding a double socket might have to pass 26A (2 x 13A). Alternatively you could leave the 16A breaker(s) in place and just upgrade the bit between the new socket and the consumer unit. Of course if you just have a single 16A breaker then there is no safety issue with leaving things as they are.

Wullie, the less helpful replies above are because you have asked a "how long is a piece of string" type question. This is easy to do when you don't know enough to ask the right question which, in the case of solar power, already isn't easy! If you can or would prefer to design and fit your own system, then there's a fair bit to read by doing searches on here. To get good advice once you've got a bit of an idea, you would need to supply details of your existing charging system and your battery bank, your electrical supply system (is it 240V through which inverter or are you just 12v), what electrical equipment you have fitted and how often you use it, and how you tend to use your boat (is it connected to shore supply much of the time, do you cruise a lot so only need solar to top up, or are you fairly static and will be asking a lot of your solar). When you read up, you'll see that a 'power audit' is mentioned a lot, and you'll need to do one. If that all sounds too difficult or is gobbledegook to you, then that's the bit you pay extra for when you engage a professional! Your initial outlay will be less For the DIY route, but the risk is greater. If DIY isn't for you, you may be better asking for solar installer recommendations. There are some useful links above. Good luck.

Sounds like a cracking topic for the CaravanWorld Discussion Forum to me.

Perhaps you can work all this out.

A bit off topic perhaps but I wouldn't judge anyone on the forum until/unless I met them face to face. I've experienced this many times, someone who comes across a bit curt, even rude, in email correspondence say, often turns out to be quite affable in "real life". And it's sometimes the other way round...

I've just thought of a "Bizzard" type device. Next time your boat is out of the water drill a wine bottle cork size hole in the base plate. Empty the wine bottle contents into oneself and dispose of bottle at a re cycling centre Fit the cork in the hole with some string through it. Tie the other end of the string to the crank shaft pulley wheel. When the crim starts the engine the plug is pulled out and said crim won't get very far. Now what could possibly go wrong?

Taking him with you is good advice but, whatever you do, don't be lazy and give him the money to go to the pet shop on his own - he'll only spend it all on biscuits.