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On this day 2016 looking towards Skipton Junction not passable here: and on the navigable side of the rock-stoppage and on this day in 2004 Springs Branch L&L Compare 30Apr2005 19Jun2007 (#2) 1May2017 10Jul2021 18Jul2021 31Jan2023

Is that cancelled opening act the modern version of the Co-Op Divi that you got at the shop in olden days?😀

Thank you everyone, happy cruising, or land living or whatever floats your boat lol it is all about community spirit wherever we are in life

hope the build quality of a motorhome is better then a caravan. I am repairing a 2004 Bailey caravan at the moment and boy are they poorley built and flimsey. Rivets into 3.6mm ply to hold corner brackets and staples used to hold fittings

The Sherwin Williams 2 pack will be sound, its one of the best around. So clean it off well so it is no longer grey and recoat with the same. Baseplate needs grit blast and epoxy if you cannot get it in for the same with a first coat of hot zinc ( Debdale ) Or if you can't do that pressure wash and a couple of coats of bitumen will be better than nothing.

Yes I saw a wide beam where the owner ordered all the windows not realising the radius was different. He was saved by the painter also being a welder who put fillets in the corners

1) have a red LED interior lighting permanrntly in the engine room to ensure your night vision is not destroyed (in case you break down while travelling at night). 2) keep a few torches handy. 3) build tbe bed adjacent to the loo area. 4) composting toilets are not practical for most people. I keep a spray bottle of diluted blue and pink for flushing, as my Excelence piston flush loo longer flushes 5) i have a fan in the loo which turns on for seversl minutes then turns off, its connected to the light switch. Closing the door should help.

Duralac paste is made for the job but I wouldn’t bother on a Narrowboat unless I had some to hand. (Which I do as I have a Wayfarer with a stainless to aluminium mast). The corrosion is massively accelerated by a saline atmosphere which doesn’t normally apply to narrowboats

Copper grease, silicon grease, plumbers grease, or beef dripping?

Well, I'm not sure "Boogie wit da Hoodie" would be the most popular opening act amongst CWDF members, so I doubt there'll be moorings full of disappointed narrowboat owners this morning. It's a bit of a fiasco though isn't it, and maybe the Co-op would prefer it was happening to Sainsbury's Live, but best that it's opened only when the venue is safe and ready.

Oh, did you not use nylon machine screws ?

I put my 9 windows in using stainless machine screws tapped through the aluminium frames into the steel sides of the boat. The 1st two of these I greased the screws before I put them in. When I later came to remove the windows I found the two that I had greased had seized screws and a lot of white powdery stuff around them. The others came out relatively easily.

And fastenings that probably do have fairly good metal to metal contact.

And the inside of the bow thruster tube if you have one.

Prep for sides: Pressure wash, angle grinder with saucer type twist knot wire brush to take the greyness off the surface. Two pack. Prep for baseplate: Ideal World: Shot blast Real world: pressure washer at 200bar or more. Wire brush when dry. Unless it is shot blasted I would only use bitumen on the bottom. Work it well into the pits. With epoxy all over 5 or 6 years between dockings is OK. With bitumen I think that is too long an interval. I would want to check every 3 or at most 4 years. While out: Check the inside of the weed hatch and the inside of the rudder tube, at the waterline, for pitting. Make sure you paint them inside. Check the stern tube and bearing for play. About every 10 years draw the tail shaft out and see how it is wearing where the gland packing runs. Renew the gland packing. Renew any worn out anodes. Check the lower end of the rudder post and the cup in the skeg for wear. Paint the tunnel bands. Clear out any drains ( sink, shower etc.) while you can get at both ends. Take the fenders off and clean the rubbish out of them. N

But the mushroom vents and Windows have sealant between the 2 different metals thus reducing the effects

We've just had Channelglaze replace our windows with double glazed thermal break windows. We used their measuring and fitting services but went with screw in rather than clip in. When they turned up to measure they said our old windows were theirs as well. We are very happy with their workmanship.

Whilst it's not the material i'd choose for building (see also MDF), the old Shareboat had chipboard floors that were still going strong when we sold up and that was fitted out in 1999 and originally with a wet bilge throughout. Assuming all the Pat Buckle fitouts of that age were done the same?

Also applies to boats made in Europe, Aqualine, Viking etc, they use metric sized windows, not the usual UK inch standards.