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Flue advice

Doodlebug

By Doodlebug
in General Boating

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Doodlebug Rising Star

Doodlebug

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Hi all,

 

Bought a pipsqueak and am now sorting out the flue. Obviously its a 3 inch flue which means I can either spend £200 on the kit (far too much money) or I can use another source of 3 inch pipe.

 

One option was to use cast iron 3 inch drain pipe which sounds like it would work pretty well but then I was considering using the following three things.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Inch-76mm-90-Degree-Mandrel-Exhaust-Bend-1D-304-Stainless-Steel-Tight-Radius-/271152325848?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f21f024d8

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304-Stainless-Steel-3-inch-Exhaust-Pipe-Connector-coupler-Heavy-duty-adapter-/261262549113?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cd4762079

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/76mm-3-Inch-1-meter-T304-Stainless-Steel-Tube-Pipe-Exhaust-silencer-Repair-/261134121411?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cccce79c3

 

Is there any reason why this wont work?

 

Thanks all

 

Thomas

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Doodlebug Rising Star

Doodlebug

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Sorry, it needed a new thread for the question. The cast iron I don't understand how it would degrade over time if the stove is made from cast iron?

 

Anyhow the stainless looks better. I want it to be single skinned to get a little more efficiency from it but how do I go about getting it through the roof? I was going to cut a hole and then use fireproof board with a hole in, then put flashing around the outside of the hole.

 

It needs the 90 degree bend because the exit out the stove is from the back. Which is a bit of a pain because it adds £30 to the cost.

 

Do you think the connection will be ok?

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MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
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Cast iron drain pipe is a bit dodgy as I'd say it is thinner than stove pipe and prone to cracking.

 

The stainless components would be fine in my view, but I am no more expert on solid fuel installations than anyone else here.

 

MtB

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Doodlebug Rising Star

Doodlebug

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Also from my understanding to pass the BSC it just has to be installed to prevent heat damage to anything nearby. So although I am confident about getting it through the roof safely it would be good to get an understanding of how normal flues are fitted on boats.

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Doodlebug Rising Star

Doodlebug

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I'm all for saving money where it can be saved, however, there are some jobs that to do properly and safely, need proper materials, you occasionall have to bite the bullet and pay the going rate.

 

You dont want to wake up dead - and a SFS is one if those things that can kill you.

 

Yes but the proper flue system is just a single wall pipe. With a bend and a few spare bends I wont need, and a cowl.

 

If anything the exhaust is stainless so is better. Its the fitting through the roof that worries me but theres nothing available for 3 inches anyway so will probably do what others seem to have done and drill a hole through fireboard.

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

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Yes but the proper flue system is just a single wall pipe. With a bend and a few spare bends I wont need, and a cowl.

 

If anything the exhaust is stainless so is better. Its the fitting through the roof that worries me but theres nothing available for 3 inches anyway so will probably do what others seem to have done and drill a hole through fireboard.

 

You do not need to buy a 'kit'. In your original thread about the pipsqueak I posted the supplier of the 'pipsqueak' flue system, you can buy the individual pieces that you need. I also sourced the correct roof collar that fitted the 3" flue.

 

Plus its a stainless steel flue !!!

 

IMG_20130912_123236_zps7d83dafa.jpg

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Liam Veteran II

LiamDonate to Canal World

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Some roof mounted exhaust systems that you would find in boats with an engine room are 3" diameter, I know Ariels exhaust is that size.

 

Depending on costs of similar "non boaty" parts, it might be worth bearing in mind as the parts will be widely available at the various chandlers.

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Paul G2 Rising Star

Paul G2

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Google 3" roof jacks and see what you come up with.

 

If that doesn't come up with any satisfactory results, you could switch to double wall flue just before you exit the roof and then look at jacks that fit the double wall flue pipe.

 

Please take the following in the spirit in which it is given - concern for your life. You are not a certified stove installer and you've come on a forum asking remedial questions about something that could very well kill you. If you're real goal is a posthumous Darwin Award, you're on the right track!

 

The proper kind of flue pipe is not that expensive, even if it is more than you want to spend. So don't be a moron - fit your stove using approved flue pipe and fittings. There are some things in this world you just don't mess with. CO is one of those things, and it's right up there at the top of the list.

 

You seem like a decent chap. It would be a pity to have to bid you an RIP.

  • Greenie 1
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Doodlebug Rising Star

Doodlebug

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Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look around.

 

I do appreciate that its a dangerous thing to be messing about with - I just don't understand how the proper kit is any better than my solution. Being single walled.

 

I think the thing I need to really look into is preventing a fire between the ceiling and roof. I'm overly cautious as a person so I won't be running anything and thinking 'ohh it will be fine'. Our current system goes through a fireboard ceiling, surrounded in rockwool and then has an aluminium sheet I cut to size. But the stove is being moved so it needs to change. But it took months of me going outside taking off the sheet and sticking my finger in to check temperatures before I was happy it would be totally safe.

 

We do have 2 CO detectors though and the stove is only to be used in the evenings rather than the sole source of heat.

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Paul G2 Rising Star

Paul G2

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Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look around.

 

I do appreciate that its a dangerous thing to be messing about with - I just don't understand how the proper kit is any better than my solution. Being single walled.

 

I think the thing I need to really look into is preventing a fire between the ceiling and roof. I'm overly cautious as a person so I won't be running anything and thinking 'ohh it will be fine'. Our current system goes through a fireboard ceiling, surrounded in rockwool and then has an aluminium sheet I cut to size. But the stove is being moved so it needs to change. But it took months of me going outside taking off the sheet and sticking my finger in to check temperatures before I was happy it would be totally safe.

 

We do have 2 CO detectors though and the stove is only to be used in the evenings rather than the sole source of heat.

 

Sigh - Many years ago I was laying in bed with a absolutely gorgeous girl when I noticed a odd-looking box on her shelf. I asked her, "What's in the box?" and she replied, "Jimmy". Jimmy was her late husband who had died a few weeks earlier from CO poisoning.

 

Now, young fellow, you can be a Jimmie, or you can be a Paul. The choice is yours. Just be aware that CO doesn't really give a rat's ass what you understand or don't understand. It just kills.

 

BTW - approved fittings should be available in single-wall pipe.

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Mac of Cygnet Veteran II

Mac of CygnetDonate to Canal World

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I know you've already bought the Pipsqueak, but to my mind a rear flue exit is not a good idea on a boat, as the stove has to be that much further away from the wall to accommodate the 90deg bend, which as has been said, can itself give rise to problems with regard to getting blocked, cleaning, and it may also require extra support for the vertical flue. I don't see how an approved 'kit' (and I can't find the exact details of that, BTW) can overcome this problem better than the curved SS bend which you are asking about. However, I note that it is 76.1mm OD (good to see something exactly specified!), so you will have to measure the exact Inside diameter of your stove flue exit - a really tight fit would be an advantage in this case. Don't assume that just because they both say 3" that one will fit inside the other!

 

As to your vertical flue, you may wish to consider a 3" to 4" increasing adaptor, and use a 4" flue and roof chimney collar, as these are much more widely available. This is actually recommended by one of the sellers of the Pipsqueak.

Edited by Mac of Cygnet
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bizzard Veteran II

bizzard

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For a 3''OD flue pipe a collar with an internal bore diameter of at least 3.1/2'' is needed which would provide a 1/4'' gap all around, better still 4'' which would allow an all round gap of 1/2'', to allow for adequate fire proof rope to insulate the flue pipe from the collar.

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smileypete Veteran II

smileypete

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You do not need to buy a 'kit'. In your original thread about the pipsqueak I posted the supplier of the 'pipsqueak' flue system, you can buy the individual pieces that you need. I also sourced the correct roof collar that fitted the 3" flue.

 

Plus its a stainless steel flue !!!

 

What bits do the kit comprise of, I assume that's what you have on yours.

 

Is there a 90 bend at the back or a tee with a cap to act as a 'soot box'. Personally I'd prefer the latter but be interested to know what the manufacturers call for.

 

Whatever the OP goes for in the end, best have at least 2 CO alarms of different make, one with numerical display of CO level.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

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I dont know what the 'kit' consists of as we just measured up and bought the bits from the company that supply them to 'Pipsqueak'.

 

From the rear of the fire is a T piece that has a soot trap removable cap at the bottom. (manufacturer recommended)

On the top of the T is a 45 degree bend to get the flue away from the wall.

A short straight length, then another 45 degree bend to get it going vertical again

A straight length up thru the roof, length trimmed off to suit.

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