Batteries for Viking 23 NB

[ChrisMoonRiver]

Can anyone tell me the specs for the two batteries fitted to a Viking 23 NB cruiser. The bost is new to me, currently fitted with 2 x 110 amp/hr batteties, one a Hankook XV110MF the other unbranded. The outboard motor will start when either 1 or 2 or 'both' are selected. I am unclear as to what the correct specs should be and whether they are connected correctly. A smart charger with shore power is installed. Thanks. Chris.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

There isn't really a spec. The number of batteries and their size is determined more by how much power people expect to use before they can next be charged up again. On your boat the two 110Ahr batts could be wired together to form a single bank, used for both domestic stuff like lights and pumps and for starting the engine. Alternatively one could be for domestic and the other for engine start only, with the switch determining which is connected to the boat electrical system. You will need to trace the wires, or post some clear pictures here.

Having a seperate start batt from the domestic bank means that you can always have a full battery availa ble to start the engine. Otherwise you can accidentally run the batteries down so much youj cannot restart the engine and get charging again. A four position switch marked off, 1, 2, both, is the simplest way of arranging this, but we need more info to tell if your boat is wired this way. Never assume anything on a new to you boat! That you are on shore power means that this isn't so important most of the time, but it will be if you go cruising with overnight stops away.

Jen

 

Edited February 22, 2018 by Jen-in-Wellies

[ChrisMoonRiver]

Hi Jen. Thanks for that very clear and helpful advice. On checking, my boat has two domestic batteries wired as a single bank, the motor will start when either 1 or 2 or 'both' are selected. When I need to replace I guess it would be best to switch to 1 x domestic and 1x starter and wire accordingly. Thanks again. Chris.

[Naughty Cal]

We have two domestic batteries and one dedicated engine starter battery on our cruiser. This set up has proven to be just right for our useage. We can stay in the same place comfortably for two nights without needing to run the engine to charge the batteries and have stretched this to three days when needed by being frugal with power. We are careful not to let our batteries drop below 50%SOC as a general rule.

Our batteries are wired up slightly differently to yours in that we don't have a switch to select batteries. Ours are charged through a split charge relay so that the starter battery is charged first and then charge switches automatically to the domestic batteries. This way the starter is always full. A close friend has the system you mention and he has on occasion forgot to switch over to domestics only when moored up and run his starter battery down as well. So just be careful with that.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

On 22/02/2018 at 17:05, ChrisMoonRiver said:

Hi Jen. Thanks for that very clear and helpful advice. On checking, my boat has two domestic batteries wired as a single bank, the motor will start when either 1 or 2 or 'both' are selected. When I need to replace I guess it would be best to switch to 1 x domestic and 1x starter and wire accordingly. Thanks again. Chris.

Hi Chris,

Sounds good. If your boat engine starts easily, then you could buy a third small car battery dedicated to engine starting. This would give you two high capacity batts for domestic use. Wire domestic batt(s) to say 1 on the switch. Starter batt to say 2. Once done you need to be systematic in using the switch.

On shore line - Both

Starting - 2

Cruising - Both, so both banks are being charged by the engine alternator.

Engine off away from shore line - 1. Engine start batt is isolated and available fully charged for starting. Domestic batt(s) being drained.

Never pass the switch through, or stop at the Off pos. while the engine is running. This can damage the alternator diodes..

Having a split charge relay as Naughty Cal describes is more sophisticated and prevents charging mistakes, but is extra cost. You need to decide if this is worthwhile. I don't have any experience of these.

Jen

[Tony Brooks]

24 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Having a split charge relay as Naughty Cal describes is more sophisticated and prevents charging mistakes, but is extra cost. You need to decide if this is worthwhile. I don't have any experience of these.

Jen

I do and prefer them to such switches as long as they are correctly wired. Nowadays I would use a Voltage Sensitive Relay instead so it works from any charge source and not just the engine.

I am not sure how easy it would be to wire a near fail safe system for an ordinary split charge relay to an outboard.

Edited February 24, 2018 by Tony Brooks

[rasputin]

All the boats I have owned have starter battery on 1, and leisure on 2

[WotEver]

7 hours ago, rasputin said:

All the boats I have owned have starter battery on 1, and leisure on 2

There’s no reason for that other than coincidence. 

[rusty69]

Just now, WotEver said:

There’s no reason for that other than coincidence. 

Coincidently , thats how mine are wired too.

[TheBiscuits]

15 minutes ago, WotEver said:

There’s no reason for that other than coincidence. 

I rewired mine so that Starter was position 1 and Domestics was position 2.  I think it's a seagoing boat thing.

There are few boat lack-of-electric problems that can't be worked around if you can start the engine, but they are a beggar to bump start as Mrs Rusty found out recently.

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, TheBiscuits said:

I rewired mine so that Starter was position 1 and Domestics was position 2.  I think it's a seagoing boat thing.

There are few boat lack-of-electric problems that can't be worked around if you can start the engine, but they are a beggar to bump start as Mrs Rusty found out recently.

She's still moaning about that too!

[rasputin]

2 hours ago, WotEver said:

There’s no reason for that other than coincidence. 

That may be true, but it seems logical to me

[WotEver]

29 minutes ago, rasputin said:

That may be true, but it seems logical to me

I must admit that when I rewired a Norman a few years back I went for the same order but I think it was just because that was the first cable I grabbed hold of. 

[Naughty Cal]

I suspect we would have had several starting issues over the last ten years if we had the switch system

As it happens we have had exactly none.

[rusty69]

And for balance, we have had exactly none with a switch system

[Tacet]

Does a 15hp Mariner outboard have a pullstart?  If so, wiring all  batteries in parallel would be the simple solution.

 

 

 

[ChrisMoonRiver]

Yes, it does. So, if all else fails I still have that.

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, ChrisMoonRiver said:

Yes, it does. So, if all else fails I still have that.

Then I agree with Tacet

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

If you can start the engine manually, then there isn't a need to have a fully charged battery always available. The current wiring of your two batteries is fine without all the extra complication that those of us reliant on electric start need.

Jen

[Naughty Cal]

Assuming of course you can start it with the hand pull. Have you tried it?

I ask because although I can easily start our 2.3hp outboard I struggle to get our 6hp going with the pull cord. A 15hp is only going to be that bit harder again.