Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Hi all, I'm hoping you might be able to help us regarding our door fit so that it is not only cladded, but we can also fit the locks, vents and handles. As I've mentioned on other threads I'm new and might get some terminology wrong so apologies in advance... We are trying to fit our door as it is currently just steel - the door and roof hatch to the stern, but we completely can't work out what material to use? My other half thought MDF would be fine, but I'm suspicious of this. He also seems to think that it being one clean sheet will make it more sturdy. I had somewhere in my head that birch ply would be better, as this will probably be what we use for the walls also - and that fitting it like a panelled door would be more attractive. Now after a brief argument in B & Q, followed by a brief sulk in Wickes we don't know what we think about anything anymore... To fit with our decor plans we will likely paint it white and grey, so getting something lovely like oak seems a bit of a waste. Any advice on the general fit of the doors/hatch is really greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty69 Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 If your going to paint it. How about 18mm wbp ply.You can also attatch little square bits and trim to tart it up a bit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 1 minute ago, rusty69 said: If your going to paint it. How about 18mm wbp ply.You can also attatch little square bits and trim to tart it up a bit. The depth we seem to need to cover is 25mm - so this would justify some 7mm tarting I assume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty69 Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Maybe 25mm blockboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 At the very least, WBP ply. Better would be hardwood marine ply but that's maybe OTT as you're painting it. Ordinary ply, OSB board, Blockboard, MDF will all fall to pieces with damp. DO NOT buy so-called Marine Ply from the diy sheds - it's rubbish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 7 minutes ago, WotEver said: At the very least, WBP ply. Better would be hardwood marine ply but that's maybe OTT as you're painting it. Ordinary ply, OSB board, Blockboard, MDF will all fall to pieces with damp. DO NOT buy so-called Marine Ply from the diy sheds - it's rubbish. Brilliant, thank you WotEver and rusty69 Ok - so this http://www.jewson.co.uk/timber/sheet-materials/plywood/softwood-plywood/products/PLYFCE18/coniferous-wbp-plywood-18-x-1200-x-2440mm/ - sealed to prevent any moisture getting in? Or how do I tell the difference between proper hardwood marine ply or so-called marine ply? Will any of the national brands/timber yards be any good? Or I'm in Derby atm if someone can recommend a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty69 Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Definitely worth sealing the edges, if not with paint/glue,then a hardwood strip. When fitting don't allow water to have access to the endgrain if possible. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 1 minute ago, WotEver said: Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet Brilliant - I will search for marine ply as I'd rather have the proper stuff, but if not will go WBP. And if we go marine ply does that need sealing too? Finally if they sell sheets in 18mm and 6mm depths - will it matter that I'm 1mm off the depth of the steel of my door? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 2 minutes ago, Peppers said: Brilliant - I will search for marine ply as I'd rather have the proper stuff, but if not will go WBP. And if we go marine ply does that need sealing too? Finally if they sell sheets in 18mm and 6mm depths - will it matter that I'm 1mm off the depth of the steel of my door? Yes, still seal it. Why tempt fate? 1mm less will be fine - your Marineflex will probably be that thick anyway 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 4 minutes ago, WotEver said: 1mm less will be fine - your Marineflex will probably be that thick anyway Ooo I'm glad you've mentioned Marineflex! I can't find anywhere to buy it - will this do do you think? http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-white-300ml/87344# ps. thank you for resolving our domestic thus far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Marineflex courtesy of a quick Google: http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-flex.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 3 minutes ago, WotEver said: Marineflex courtesy of a quick Google: http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-flex.html Yeah but as I'm currently of no fixed abode I'm struggling with the whole posting thing and was hoping to purchase from a real life shop, which seems to be more of an ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacka Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Another reason for using 18mm WBP or marine ply is that it is strong stuff and for external doors you do want something strong enough to withstand a bit of 'breaking and entering' from passing undesirables. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Schweizer Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 (edited) Proper Marine ply which meets the regulation requirements will be marked BS 1088, or possibly BS 6566 which is no longer current. Edited July 19, 2017 by David Schweizer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 4 hours ago, Peppers said: Ooo I'm glad you've mentioned Marineflex! I can't find anywhere to buy it - will this do do you think? http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-white-300ml/87344# ps. thank you for resolving our domestic thus far ebt is my least favourite variety of Sikaflex, probably because it it's very sticky when it comes out of the tube, sticking to the traditional wet finger, but sets harder than 221 or the (more expensive) 291i. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWM Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 17 hours ago, WotEver said: Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet Yes, the good stuff is expensive but worth it. There are two main types available, one being made of very hard veneers which may be more suitable for your intended use and the other being made from gaboon which is a softer hardwood! more often used in boat building being more flexible, it marks easily until coated with a resin or similar. For panelling a steel door a quality birch ply would be ample and half of the cost. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard T Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 A good source of ply near Derby would be Brooks Timber which have a base very close to the canal in Dunkirk Nottingham http://www.brookstimber.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppers Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 This is great stuff - WBP ply bought and cut to size today (I couldn't find Marine Ply without waiting days for it). Our next challenge is the locks - we were thinking a yale (at the top into the roof hatch) and bolts, but considered an extra mortice lock through the centre for added security...any thoughts on the ideal lock set up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard T Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Whatever you do with locks they must be easy to operate from the inside of the boat. In the event of a fire you have a very short period to escape probably less than 3minutes.!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt&Jo Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Most i have viewed just have a simple drop over hinge with a padlock........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard T Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 1 minute ago, Matt&Jo said: Most i have viewed just have a simple drop over hinge with a padlock........ This arrangement is not safe the hasp should be on the door and the staple on the roof slide. That way the hasp cannot accidentally drop and trap you in the boat. This happenned to me years ago when I was trapped in the back cabin of a working boat. Only some delicate work with a table fork enabled me to escape!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 12 minutes ago, Matt&Jo said: Most i have viewed just have a simple drop over hinge with a padlock........ Prob the worst of the worst. I can see when your out, I can easily remove, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 The last one I did I fitted two sliding bolts on the hatch, one each side at the back. Then two sliding bolts on one of the doors, one at the top into the slide and the other into the floor. The other door had a Yale-type nightlatch which locked it to the fixed door. It was secure, easy to access with a key from outside or by turning the knob from the inside. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacka Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 3 minutes ago, WotEver said: The last one I did I fitted two sliding bolts on the hatch, one each side at the back. Then two sliding bolts on one of the doors, one at the top into the slide and the other into the floor. The other door had a Yale-type nightlatch which locked it to the fixed door. It was secure, easy to access with a key from outside or by turning the knob from the inside. That's basically what I did, though the hatch was held on to the runners by a couple of m4 bolts which I felt were not strong enough so bolted a couple of brackets to the sliding hatch which were just under the hatch runners, so even if you removed/broke the fixing bolts, the hatch will not hinge up and over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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