My widebeam house boat refurbishment project

[Davestampy1]

No hasn't been checked underneath yet I am in the queue...

[magnetman]

Maybe you should be in the water for that job

 

Typonedit

Edited August 31, 2016 by magnetman

[Davestampy1]

Quick update. For the past month we've been rebuilding the timber frame work inside insulating and framing out the bottom. Boats now been lifted out awaiting the surveyor. Don't look too bad on the bottom. We have plans to build a wheel house on the back. Exciting stuff..

For more pics of what we are doing...

[blackrose]

Quick update. For the past month we've been rebuilding the timber frame work inside insulating and framing out the bottom. Boats now been lifted out awaiting the surveyor.

I'm a bit puzzled and concerned about your approach to having the boat surveyed. In your original post you said you didn't get it surveyed as you made a deal with the seller that you'd get the boat cheaper if you didn't.

 

I can see the advantages of such an arrangement to both parties - the vendor gets to sell it quickly and you get a cheaper price, but you've potentially put yourself in a risky situation. Now you're getting the boat surveyed but have no option to walk away if it turns out badly. I very much doubt that the deal you got will cover you for the cost of extensive overplating, and should that turn out to be the case you may end up seriously out of pocket. I hope I'm wrong about that.

 

I suppose it's all a bit of a gamble but I think you've given yourself the long odds. Anyway I hope the survey turns out well for you.

Edited November 20, 2016 by blackrose

[Davestampy1]

Thanks. We shall find out tomorrow...

[Bee]

Interesting boat, if by some misfortune you do have to get new steel welded on its a pretty simple shape. A bit tricky to make it mobile. There are lots of boats with fore ends built like barn doors but they seem to get about ok but the sterns tend to be quite well planned to get decent water flow to the prop and rudder. Nice home though.

[Nightwatch]

I think it looks good and exciting.

 

The OP has previously stated that he is half expecting an overplare issue. If it turns out to be okay, bonus! Yippee!

 

That's going to be a pleasant cosy home.

[FadeToScarlet]

Pretty easy to move around- just get a Bantam tug and push it!

[bargemast]

Pretty easy to move around- just get a Bantam tug and push it!Pretty easy to move around- just get a Bantam tug and push it!

 

There would be a slight issue of visibility, with a low Bantam tug.

 

About 45 years ago I used to earn money pushing houseboats to different boatyards in- and around Amsterdam with my small pushers, and it was pretty awkward having to rely on other peoples eyes.

There were no small cameras at the time, but I had made a sort of periscope construction with 2 mirrors that I could easily fold down for the passage of low bridges, which made it a bit easier.

 

Peter.

[Davestampy1]

I do think think I will get a tug to move it. I will get a 40 ish hp outboard with hydrolic steering in the wheel house I have yet to build. Briefly spoke to surveyor said it'll need a few patches which I was expecting.

[bargemast]

I do think think I will get a tug to move it. I will get a 40 ish hp outboard with hydrolic steering in the wheel house I have yet to build. Briefly spoke to surveyor said it'll need a few patches which I was expecting.

 

Congratulations, if she only needs a few patches you must be a very happy man, and you'll have yourself a spacious houseboat for not too much money.

 

If you'll fit a 40hp outboard give the outboard a rudderpiece too, so that it will still listen to the rudder if you go slow, and if it's big enough will still listen to the outboard position when the prop doesn't push.

 

Peter.

[blackrose]

Interesting boat, if by some misfortune you do have to get new steel welded on its a pretty simple shape. A bit tricky to make it mobile. There are lots of boats with fore ends built like barn doors but they seem to get about ok but the sterns tend to be quite well planned to get decent water flow to the prop and rudder. Nice home though.

 

I think if the outboard is far enough away from the stern and the boat is moved slowly then enough water should flow to the prop. Try to speed up though and it may struggle. Trying to stop it and going astern might also be tricky. All of this assumes that the prop is above the height of the baseplate, unless you get a long shaft outboard that goes below. The only problem with that is the potential for prop damage.

 

I used to know a bloke who moved a 72ft butty with a 25hp outboard and he did ok. It wasn't easy to stop the boat though.

[Alan de Enfield]

As you may know, outboard 'legs' come in different lengths, Short, Long and Extra Long.

If you get the 'wrong one' you wont be going anywhere.

 

The prop should be just below the bottom of the boat.

 

[Murflynn]

 

I think if the outboard is far enough away from the stern and the boat is moved slowly then enough water should flow to the prop.

the stern appears to be well swept up, so that shouldn't be an issue.

[Alan de Enfield]

the stern appears to be well swept up, so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

The 'slope' will certainly assist, but the disturbed water flowing around that square stern will not provide a source of a steady flow of water.

 

I am assuming that any outboard would be mounted on that 'grid of angle iron' welded onto the hull ?

[Guest]

 

The 'slope' will certainly assist, but the disturbed water flowing around that square stern will not provide a source of a steady flow of water.

 

I am assuming that any outboard would be mounted on that 'grid of angle iron' welded onto the hull ?

I saw that yesterdya, and thought a nice stern wheel would look the part.

[Davestampy1]

OK so quick update. Boat has been surveyed had around 10 biggish pits on one corner of the boat. Surveyor recommended over plating or puddle welding within the next year or two. Other sides are fine with no bad pitting. Hopefully have a welder in place to do this. There where two urgent jobs the old stern tube needs cutting off and plating because it'll let water in he said which it didn't but we'll get it done anyway. If I decide to black it and forget about the pits for a few years could I get it insured? The survey has average hull and size thicknesses of over 4mm with minimum thickness of 2.5 which was inside a pit. Would this allow me to insure it?

Also if anyone knows of any welders that can puddle welding local to me let me know cheers.

We have also the option of blacking the bottom ourselves which I may do as I'd like to doit...

[Davestampy1]

Couple more pictures. This weekend I removed blown silicone along the sill and put some new in. Then next weekend I will liquid plastic the sill so no rain water comes in. This week all four corners of bulkheads are being welded and remove two skin fitting that where below the water line and relocate them 150mm above water line in a new location. Can't wait the start on the wheel house. Thanks for the info regarding outboards.

[Alan de Enfield]

You will have no problem to insure it 'third party only'

 

If you want it 'fully comprehensive' you may have some problems - the insurers look for 4mm as the minimum thickness - you now have a survey saying the minimum thickness is 2.5mm.

 

I doubt you will be able to insure it 'fully comp' until the work is done and you have a surveyor check that the work has been 'correctly completed' and "sign it off".

[Polishicebreaker]

Nice boat, good project! looks like you've been lucky with the Hull too!

The insurance issue has been discussed here many times and I believe the consensus is that if the the boat is more than 30 years old a lot of insurance companies will require a hull survey for minimum of 4mm thickness.

However, there are quite a few boat owners who have boats older than 30 years with fully comprehensive insurance as far as I know who have not been asked for a survey report from their insurer.

[Davestampy1]

Thanks I spoke to the welder he said he can puddle weld as I said it's only on one corner so I got off lucky. The boat is believed to be a 1930s working barge but haven't had this confirmed the hull is all riveted. It's amazing how a steel hull this age can last this long. I've been reading about pitting on boats not even 5 years old.

[Davestampy1]

All four top corners of bulkheads welded. Finished framing around front of boat and finished some siliconing out side...

[Davestampy1]

Quick update on progress been really busy. With regards to the pits on port side we got it plated with was recommended by the surveyor in a year or two. We've black and blacked the boat with 10 new anodes fitted. I have cut out an opening for a skylight under the kitchen and built and upstand just need to get a triple glazed unit. We opened up the hallway by adding another window and changed the single glazed lurveor vented window. We also painted the super structure firstly in an Matt dove grey then changed it to gloss. And painted the cill twice with a rubber paint as it's a prone area to leak. Boats dropping off the slip way tomorrow

[Dave Payne]

Photos, or it didn't happen!

[Davestampy1]

Next big project is building the wheel house any ideas welcome but I do have a rough idea. Insulating tomorrow with plans for next week taking up the subfloor insulating and boarding.