Boat won't start.

[Laurie Booth]

I've just replaced my batteries on my boat.

After replacing the boat started up all OK as per normal. I ran the engine for a few minutes.

 

I went for a few pints and returned to the boat and decided to start the engine to give the batteries a bit of a charge.

 

To my horror the starter motor would hardly crank over and the volt meter dropped on the instrument panel.

 

I have checked the batteries with a volt meter and the two domestic batteries read 12.1 volts and the starter battery reads 13.5 volts.

 

Any help/suggestions welcome.

 

[Guest]

Some years ago on a previous narrowboat I had a similar problem. Very old engine, and it turned out to be a faulty solenoid on the starter motor. I suspect the volt meter will drop anyway; mine does when engine is cranking. Can you try jump leads from another boat, or maybe your domestic bank?

[MtB]

Poor connection I bet.

 

Try measuring the battery voltage (on the posts proper) whilst actually turning the engine over. Then again on the battery terminal clamps. Post the results.

[pophops]

Check/.tighten all relevant connections. You may have disturbed something when changing over your batteries.

[Guest]

Poor connection I bet.

 

Try measuring the battery voltage (on the posts proper) whilst actually turning the engine over. Then again on the battery terminal clamps. Post the results.

Quite likely after battery being disturbed. Any connections feel hot after it has tried to crank?

Things can be bypassed with a proper jump lead to rule out bad connections etc, but extreme care is needed.

[Lampyrichard]

I'm sure more knowledgeable folk will be along soon & apologies if you've already checked / tried this, but that looks like you have flat domestics & charged engine battery if your meter readings are the right way round.

 

Have you double checked that the domestic / engine connections went back on the right batteries when you fitted them?

 

If everything is correctly connected back up, then do you have any means of connecting all the batteries together temporarily to get the engine started eg (jump lead or spare battery interconnect)?

 

edit - must type faster!

Edited August 27, 2016 by Lampyrichard

[Jrtm]

Have you tried turning it off and on again.... is it plugged in....ok plug it in.... have you turned the plug on.... ok you take care now.

 

Sorry bored at work.

[alan_fincher]

The problem could be the bit I have highlighted!......

 

I went for a few pints and returned to the boat and decided to start the engine to give the batteries a bit of a charge.

[Bill]

Have you tried turning it off and on again.... is it plugged in....ok plug it in.... have you turned the plug on.... ok you take care now.

 

Sorry bored at work.

 

Not sure that will work if you have portholes, I think you need windows You could try bump starting it, find a downhill stretch of canal, get it up to 10 mph or so put in 2nd gear and then let the clutch in. That'll definitely get it started.

[Laurie Booth]

Some years ago on a previous narrowboat I had a similar problem. Very old engine, and it turned out to be a faulty solenoid on the starter motor. I suspect the volt meter will drop anyway; mine does when engine is cranking. Can you try jump leads from another boat, or maybe your domestic bank?

I've tried a jump starter battery but it has no effect

Poor connection I bet.

 

Try measuring the battery voltage (on the posts proper) whilst actually turning the engine over. Then again on the battery terminal clamps. Post the results.

This sounds possible, unfortunatly I can't test the voltage and turn over the engine at the same time.

Quite likely after battery being disturbed. Any connections feel hot after it has tried to crank?

Things can be bypassed with a proper jump lead to rule out bad connections etc, but extreme care is needed.

I have not checked for hot leads but have put a jump starter batter to the starter battery.

Have you double checked that the domestic / engine connections went back on the right batteries when you fitted them?

 

 

 

The engine started straight away after fitting the new batteries.

[Tony Brooks]

That does not sound like a similar sized battery to the start one and if it was, and well charged, what about the jump leads. Far too many look thick but are all insulation with very little copper in them - think old fashioned plug leads.

 

The very close link to terminal disturbance certainly makes loose or dirty terminal number 1 suspect so check voltages at both the lead posts and the clamps under cranking as MIke said and post the results. It just might be a faulty interlink within the start battery.

Edited August 27, 2016 by Tony Brooks

[Laurie Booth]

The problem could be the bit I have highlighted!......

 

I had a genuine two pints, I wish that was the problem

Still not working the next day

[Bill]

I've tried a jump starter battery but it has no effect

 

So even with a fresh jump battery the engine is still turning over slowly. I'm assuming the wiring is now been double checked and is correctly terminated. If the thing is actually turning the engine over it would indicate to me that the solenoid is working (actuating) but maybe high resistance. It could also be a duff starter.

[WotEver]

Do you have an isolator on that battery? If so, turn it off and on again several times. Could be dirty.

[Laurie Booth]

 

That does not sound like a similar sized battery to the start one and if it was, and well charged, what about the jump leads. Far too many look thick but are all insulation with very little copper in them - think old fashioned plug leads.

 

The very close link to terminal disturbance certainly makes loose or dirty terminal number 1 suspect so check voltages at both the lead posts and the clamps under cranking as MIke said and post the results. It just might be a faulty interlink within the start battery.

 

This is the jump starter I used.

[Kwacker]

This is the jump starter I used.

I have one of those, it wouldn't start a moped! It is really just a torch with a big battery.

Instructions on mine say connect to starter battery then leave for at least 10 minutes before trying to crank.

Edited August 27, 2016 by Kwacker

[Jrtm]

 

Not sure that will work if you have portholes, I think you need windows You could try bump starting it, find a downhill stretch of canal, get it up to 10 mph or so put in 2nd gear and then let the clutch in. That'll definitely get it started.

If not get a tow once up to speed put it in gear.

[zenataomm]

Laurie, going for the cheap and bleedin' obvious.

 

Disconnect the leads to the new batteries.

Thoroughly clean the battery posts and the connectors on the ends of the cables.

 

Put them back on and give them both a gentle tap with a thump'ometer to ensure a good connection. Also check the cables are soundly attached to the cables. It sounds like a dry connection to me.

 

Alternatively give the starter motor a whack with something wooden like the end of a shaft.

 

Those starter packs are a con. If you take one apart you'll be shocked at the tiny cell inside, there's no way it's going to turn over a diesel with the compression involved.

[Mike on the Wey]

It could be the low tension lead between the ignition switch and the starter motor. Remove the thin wire with a spade connector from the back of the starter motor. Use a screwdriver or chisel to make a connection between the now exposed terminal and the post to which the thick red cable is attached, taking care not to touch the engine, gearbox or boat metal at the same time. Let us know what happens.

[Jrtm]

This is what happens when you get a modern engine they all go wrong. I would take off all the wires except the main live and get a wire direct from battery to the starter solenoid if it dont start there is either the main power or the solenoid if it works the tace the wires back

[Kendorr]

To shut my engine off, I have a pull knob which has to be manually returned. A few months back, my brother was having a driving day and I let him do everything, including shutting off the engine at the end of the day. When I went back the following week, the engine would turn over, but not fire up. I scratched my head, checked the batteries, did everything I could think of, in the end, I left it!! When talking to a friend who know far more than me, he suggested it might be the 'stop' knob. Anyway, when I went back, sure enough, brother had pulled the knob up, but not returned it.

 

Bit long winded, but have you got something similar?

[Edders]

Check the earth lead connection on the engine block.

 

Tony

[Tony Brooks]

 

To shut my engine off, I have a pull knob which has to be manually returned. A few months back, my brother was having a driving day and I let him do everything, including shutting off the engine at the end of the day. When I went back the following week, the engine would turn over, but not fire up. I scratched my head, checked the batteries, did everything I could think of, in the end, I left it!! When talking to a friend who know far more than me, he suggested it might be the 'stop' knob. Anyway, when I went back, sure enough, brother had pulled the knob up, but not returned it.

 

Bit long winded, but have you got something similar?

 

Laurie said in his first post "the voltmeter dropped" and if it dropped to more than 10 volts that rules the above out. If it only dropped a fraction then the above is still ruled out because the starter would not turn the engine over.

 

Now I know I must sound like a broken record but once again we need the voltage readings asked for.

 

If the voltage dropped to below 10 volts then it will NOT be the lead between ignition switch and solenoid so we can probably rule that one out.

 

If the voltage did drop that far then we are looking at (in no particular order) short in starter, seized engine or starter, bad connection, faulty master switch, or faulty battery. As this is so close to the battery change we must start by looking at something directly related to that job - dirty or loose battery terminals (as others have said) or a loosened, misplaced or left disconnected lead.However we must remember it could be a faulty battery (the jump starter is a toy for petrol engines and even then probably of marginal practical use).

 

If the cranking voltage on the lead battery posts drops to below about 10 volts it is likely to be a flat or faulty battery or a shorting starter/seize3d engine. All Laurie can do is to feel eh starter body and cables they will be hot if its a short. Then try turning the engine over by hand to make sure it is not seized.

 

then measure the open circuit (not cranking) voltage and estimate the state of charge from that. If it shows more than about 50% charged then I would be very suspicious of the new battery. If he has the resources it may then be an idea to put it on charge for several hours and repeat.

 

If the cranking voltage on the posts remains above about 10 volts but drops when measured on the terminals then its indicates loose or dirty battery clamp to post connection.

 

If the cranking voltage at the clamps remains above about 10 volts under cranking then the clamps are OK so repeat between the engine block and main battery connection on the solenoid. The cranking voltage should be more or less the same if it drops then look for poor cable crimps on the main leads, loose/dirty earth on the engine block/starter, undersized cables or faulty master switch.

 

I could go on listing each step of the diagnostic procedure but see little point in wasting my time if the voltage readings I asked for can not be produced.

 

 

 

[MtB]

This sounds possible, unfortunatly I can't test the voltage and turn over the engine at the same time.

 

 

Lorry, can you lassoo an unsuspecting passer-by to turn the key for you perhaps? Or even press gang the Mrs into helping?

 

Without this information there is little more anyone can do to help short of turning up with a multimeter and measuring these voltages with you.

Where are you?

Where are you?

[Drayke]

I was trying to start a friend’s boat once but failed so jumpstarted from domestic bats. Told her that the battery seemed dead and she would maybe need a new one. It turned out that it had an electronic isolator on both engine and domestic battery banks as well as manual and the engine one had been switched off by accident. Do you have similar?