Sea Dog Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 2 hours ago, Loddon said: I think mine are 12/24v units, so far (3+years) no failures. I just wish I could disconnect the led as it's a PITA at night providing illumination when not needed. Conversely, I find (red for preference and in the right location) them a very useful source of night lighting. I'm not concerned about the minute power usage as I isolate the batteries when the boat is left unattended for any time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 2 hours ago, Loddon said: I just wish I could disconnect the led as it's a PITA at night providing illumination when not needed. I bought USB sockets with a switch so the led (and presumably the conversion circuitry) is switched off when not in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jen-in-Wellies Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 36 minutes ago, David Mack said: I bought USB sockets with a switch so the led (and presumably the conversion circuitry) is switched off when not in use. Alternatively, my approach is to tone down the annoying LED with a bit of insulating tape, leaving just a tiny corner exposed. You can still see it is on if you look carefully, but is no longer bathing the cabin in an eerie green, blue, or blinking light. Insulating tape is available in many colours, so coordination with the gadget case is possible to some extent. I don't go that far though. Doesn't help the few milliamps the pointless LED is consuming though. Jen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMPY Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 46 minutes ago, David Mack said: I bought USB sockets with a switch so the led (and presumably the conversion circuitry) is switched off when not in use. All mine are switched but it's not much use switching them off when they are charging stuff overnight 😱 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMPY Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 Now let me see over £300 to replace the perfectly functional USB sockets in the caravan and boat with Blue Sea 4a ones😱 No thanks I'll pass on that 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frangar Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 1 minute ago, Loddon said: Now let me see over £300 to replace the perfectly functional USB sockets in the caravan and boat with Blue Sea 4a ones😱 No thanks I'll pass on that 😂 Then stop moaning about the led’s then! I should have known you had deep pockets and short arms when you wouldn’t pay the extra for a victron solar controller! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMPY Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 (edited) 34 minutes ago, frangar said: Then stop moaning about the led’s then! I should have known you had deep pockets and short arms when you wouldn’t pay the extra for a victron solar controller! Unlike some I have to be careful with my spending as I only have a state pension as income. Edited July 27, 2021 by Loddon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 On 27/07/2021 at 08:05, Loddon said: I think mine are 12/24v units, so far (3+years) no failures. I just wish I could disconnect the led as it's a PITA at night providing illumination when not needed. Ours are 12/24v and running on 24v nominal system without issue, 2A 5v outlet which I understand is 'Quick Charge 1' or 10w Wired direct onto the 24v ring main, no fuse or isolator switch, however the ring is on a 6A breaker and we isolate the batteries when on board. The parasitic load is measurable, and far more than just the LED, so I would fit isolation switches if you were working hard to reduce consumption. Like Jen-in-Wellies I stick tape over the blue LEDs so the output is hugely reduced to allow people to sleep in the same room! I have just bought a new one, which claims to be QC 3 (35w) complent, but certainly should be able to do 9v 18w charging which I look fwd to. The input specs on the side state DC input of 9 to 36v so that should be able to take really anything an alternator throws at it. Planning to test it on the 6v nominal vintage car over the weekend so we shall see how that goes! Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacka Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 On 30/07/2021 at 15:46, DHutch said: Ours are 12/24v and running on 24v nominal system without issue, 2A 5v outlet which I understand is 'Quick Charge 1' or 10w Wired direct onto the 24v ring main, no fuse or isolator switch, however the ring is on a 6A breaker and we isolate the batteries when on board. The parasitic load is measurable, and far more than just the LED, so I would fit isolation switches if you were working hard to reduce consumption. Like Jen-in-Wellies I stick tape over the blue LEDs so the output is hugely reduced to allow people to sleep in the same room! I have just bought a new one, which claims to be QC 3 (35w) complent, but certainly should be able to do 9v 18w charging which I look fwd to. The input specs on the side state DC input of 9 to 36v so that should be able to take really anything an alternator throws at it. Planning to test it on the 6v nominal vintage car over the weekend so we shall see how that goes! Daniel Can’t see it doing any smart charging, interesting to see if it works at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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