Stern gland bolt sheared.....aaaargh!

[ditchcrawler]

 

Its a good thought MtB

 

I might just buy a right angled drill attachment and a set of stud extractors to have in for the future if your suggestion works. If your suggestion doesn't work then I've got the tools I need to hand

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See point 5 in my OP

Well that is what I would do. I watched the chap who changed or gearbox some years ago do the same thing to get more room.

[Timleech]

I can't see why ordinary ss nuts and bolts cant be used instead of studs, drill threads out and bolts slot straight through and always easily removable, granted it's bit more fiddly to adjust but far simpler and less hassle in the long term.

 

Study the picture again, and consider how much adjustment you will be able to get if using through bolts.

Incidentally, if using stainless studs or bolts, there's a lot to be said for using brass nuts. Stainless on stainless threads have a nasty habit of galling and destroying the threads.

 

Edit - the original studs are highly likely to be brass rather than bronze. If so, step drilling can be a nightmare as the drills may grab horribly when opening the hole out to a bigger size.

 

Tim

Edited November 26, 2014 by Timleech

[magnetman]

 

Study the picture again, and consider how much adjustment you will be able to get if using through bolts.

Incidentally, if using stainless studs or bolts, there's a lot to be said for using brass nuts. Stainless on stainless threads have a nasty habit of galling and destroying the threads.

 

Edit - the original studs are highly likely to be brass rather than bronze. If so, step drilling can be a nightmare as the drills may grab horribly when opening the hole out to a bigger size.

 

Tim

 

Thats why I think left handed drill bit might take the stud out the 'grabbing' would then be in the direction of undoing the stud, and if its loose anyway it will start to come out before any of the grabbing occurs.

 

Dormer 5mm left hand drill bit £5 on eBay. That and a cordless right angle drill

[Bod]

Brass threaded rod is normally available at chandlers for this job.

 

Bod

[Barry]

 

Study the picture again, and consider how much adjustment you will be able to get if using through bolts.

Incidentally, if using stainless studs or bolts, there's a lot to be said for using brass nuts. Stainless on stainless threads have a nasty habit of galling and destroying the threads.

 

Edit - the original studs are highly likely to be brass rather than bronze. If so, step drilling can be a nightmare as the drills may grab horribly when opening the hole out to a bigger size.

 

Tim

 

Thats interesting

 

I reckon I'll drill a practise hole in the broken stud to see what its like

[nb Innisfree]

 

Study the picture again, and consider how much adjustment you will be able to get if using through bolts.

Incidentally, if using stainless studs or bolts, there's a lot to be said for using brass nuts. Stainless on stainless threads have a nasty habit of galling and destroying the threads.

 

Edit - the original studs are highly likely to be brass rather than bronze. If so, step drilling can be a nightmare as the drills may grab horribly when opening the hole out to a bigger size.

 

Tim

Yes I can see that, maybe cut the gland securing bolts flush with the nuts to give more clearance.

 

I've often fancied some straight fluted drills for brass, don't know if they are still available.

[alan_fincher]

I'm voting with Bizz and Richard on this one.

 

The studs are usually a sloppy fit, so unless you have really damaged the threads by putting it under tension before it broke, I think it shouldn't be in there tight,

 

However I thing I'd be looking to try and get it out by unscrewing it, not by trying to drive it right through so it falls out the back. If you have some stretched threads at the front of it, these might cause it to tighten up if you try and drive it through, because the pitch on those threads will no longer be as intended.

[MtB]

I'm voting with Bizz and Richard on this one.

 

The studs are usually a sloppy fit, so unless you have really damaged the threads by putting it under tension before it broke, I think it shouldn't be in there tight,

 

However I thing I'd be looking to try and get it out by unscrewing it, not by trying to drive it right through so it falls out the back. If you have some stretched threads at the front of it, these might cause it to tighten up if you try and drive it through, because the pitch on those threads will no longer be as intended.

 

 

There won't be any stretched threads. Brass is spectacularly NON-ductile. It snaps long before stretching!

 

MtB

[trackman]

Did exactly this job a few years ago & I support Richard & Bizzard. My broken stud unscrewed easily when mole grips were clamped onto an end.

I think I got a length of threaded bar to cut a replacement from in Loughborough at Charnwood Fasteners. Kept the left over bar for future reference.

[RLWP]

 

 

There won't be any stretched threads. Brass is spectacularly NON-ductile. It snaps long before stretching!

 

MtB

 

How do they deep draw shell cases then?

 

Richard

[Barry]

 

How do they deep draw shell cases then?

 

Richard

 

Different brass obviously

 

 

 

I've had a play with the broken stud. It files easily and looks like brass. Trying to drill it though, reveals that the twist bits I've been using for wood seem to be be too blunt to drill the end of the stud effectively.

 

Methinks a small set of those posh drill bits (the yellow looking ones) might be in order. <rubs hands gleefully>

[magnetman]

I imagine they use heat treatment when making shell casings.

[Harpur Hill]

Hi

I have some PB hex bar 0.683" (17.35mm) happy to turn up a couple of 10mm bolts if it helps.

 

Would also be happy to sell the length if anyone wants it - I'm trying to reduce my collection of engineering tools & equipment.

 

Cheers

HH

[Guest]

I imagine they use heat treatment when making shell casings.

Yes I would think so. A factory where I once worked used to forge brass bars; They where heated to cherry red by induction.

[RLWP]

Yes I would think so. A factory where I once worked used to forge brass bars; They where heated to cherry red by induction.

 

Even so, brass is used because of it's ductility. Likewise spun headlamp bowls

 

Richard

[Tony Brooks]

 

Different brass obviously

 

 

 

I've had a play with the broken stud. It files easily and looks like brass. Trying to drill it though, reveals that the twist bits I've been using for wood seem to be be too blunt to drill the end of the stud effectively.

 

Methinks a small set of those posh drill bits (the yellow looking ones) might be in order. <rubs hands gleefully>

 

 

I seem to recall that the ground angles on the drill tip should really be different for brass. Maybe that is why it has been siad on here that when drilling it can grab. I find that to be true when using ordinary HSS or plated HSS drills

[MtB]

 

How do they deep draw shell cases then?

 

Richard

 

They do it hot I reckon, but I don't know for sure.

 

The stock brass I used to machine and play with during my apprenticeship was extremely NON ductile. Even the brass curtain rods from my boat will snap if I try to bend them, unlike steel or copper. Brass is also noted for chattering when being machined or drilled. I maintain Bazza's brass stud simply snapped in tension by being done up too tight.

 

Good point about spinning brass headlamp bowls though. I reckon it is done hot or its a different alloy designed for increased ductility specifically for spinning.

 

MtB

[RLWP]

Bazza's studs are bronze

 

Richard

[Barry]

Bazza's studs are bronze

 

Richard

 

I thought they might be but when filed today the broken stud looks like brass

 

(my post 36)

 

I maintain Bazza's brass stud simply snapped in tension by being done up too tight.

 

 

Yep - no warning either

[Timleech]

 

 

I seem to recall that the ground angles on the drill tip should really be different for brass. Maybe that is why it has been siad on here that when drilling it can grab. I find that to be true when using ordinary HSS or plated HSS drills

 

If you do need to open out a hole in brass, with a standard drill, you can reduce the tendency to grab by stoning the cutting edge such that it is along the axis of the drill instead of having the rake angle defined by the drill helix.

 

Tim

[Barry]

 

 

I seem to recall that the ground angles on the drill tip should really be different for brass. Maybe that is why it has been siad on here that when drilling it can grab. I find that to be true when using ordinary HSS or plated HSS drills

 

I remember that too

[RLWP]

Have you got that bit out yet?

 

Richard

[RLWP]

They do it hot I reckon, but I don't know for sure.

 

The stock brass I used to machine and play with during my apprenticeship was extremely NON ductile. Even the brass curtain rods from my boat will snap if I try to bend them, unlike steel or copper. Brass is also noted for chattering when being machined or drilled. I maintain Bazza's brass stud simply snapped in tension by being done up too tight.

 

Good point about spinning brass headlamp bowls though. I reckon it is done hot or its a different alloy designed for increased ductility specifically for spinning.

 

MtB

Nope. Brass is noted for its ductility. The stuff you (and I) sprayed about with a lathe as apprentices is free machining brass which has lead added. Without the lead, the brass tears and builds up on the tool because it is soft. Makes it suitable for pressing, deep drawing, spinning and so on. Hence paraffin lamps, fire extinguishers, headlamp bowls, tubes and loads of other stuff being made of brass

 

Richard

[magnetman]

I wonder if Bazza2's stud was already beginning to fracture due to vibration or fatigue stresses and that he just finished it off

[Barry]

Have you got that bit out yet?

 

Richard

 

Nope I'm still here and not there yet