Cutting the flue - in situ.

[Richard10002]

My flue is pretty much welded to the collar with sealant and rope. Try as I might, with chisel, scraper, pliers, I can't make any progress separating collar and flue.

 

I've had the flue and collar out before but the collar makes the thing really top heavy and pretty dangerous - I managed with the help of a friend, but I don't want to do it that way again.

 

Given that the flue is shot, my plan is to cut it off, about 6 inches to a foot below the collar. This will make removal of both much more manageable and, hopefully, separating the two will be easier on a workbench with easy access. I'm kind of hoping that I'll be able to drill out the rope and sealant.

 

Anyway, no point reinventing the wheel so, a couple of questions:

 

1) Any suggestions for separating the collar and flue in situ?

 

2) What would be the best way of cutting the flue below the collar? I've got a Dremel, a Bosch multitool with vibrating plunge saws, (like the Feinn multitool), and can probably borrow an angle grinder.

 

I definitely don't fancy cutting it manually with a hacksaw type thing - it would take ages!

 

Many Thanks, as always,

Edited May 31, 2014 by Richard10002

[Guest]

I wouldn't fancy wielding an angle grinder at that height. My son ended up with a hole in his face when an angle grinder bit him. A large power saw and full face/eye protection sounds safer.

Could you run a jig saw around it if you drilled a hole in first to insert blade? (metal cutting blades are very good.)

Edited May 31, 2014 by Guest

[Paul C]

Angle grinder would be the logical tool to use (carefully) but its sparks would create something of a nightmare in the boat interior. You'd need to cover/protect a large area, including the windows, with something which can absorb the sparks without catching fire.

 

So I think, unfortunately, hacksaw is the tool to use here. Much less travelling and heat of the dust.

[Grace and Favour]

I would use a jigsaw with a "metal" blade - just use a pilot hole - should take about 10~15 minutes with a decent blade and plenty of cutting fluid

[Guest]

I would use a jigsaw with a "metal" blade - just use a pilot hole - should take about 10~15 minutes with a decent blade and plenty of cutting fluid

I used that method to cut a hole in the roof for the flue, so agree it should cut a flue pipe OK. I bought some quality blades, and they were worth the extra dosh.

[Neil2]

I'm amazed you can't separate the flue/collar - presumably rust has taken hold and fused the two together.

 

But maybe if you could apply a twisting force it might break free.

 

Given that the flue is u/s anyway, why not drill a couple of holes at 180 degrees to each other so you can thread an old screwdriver or a steel bar through and try turning the flue to break the seal.

 

If it doesn't work I agree a jigsaw would do if it you have the elbow room, it's only mild steel. I cut mine with a hacksaw though and it didn't take that long.

[richardf]

A large chain wrench wrapped around the old flu is what you need - bigger the better!

[Timleech]

I've just done exactly this job, used a 5" angle grinder with 1mm slitting disc for the accessible bits (make sure all window glass is protected against metal sparks), and finished round the back with a reciprocating saw.

It was 4" nominal bore steel pipe, not light stuff.

 

Tim

[Phil Ambrose]

All of the above except the angle grinder. A hacksaw would not really take too long provided you can get reasonable access, a jigsaw with say Bosch metal cutting blade would do the job quicker though>

 

Phil

[Guest]

All of the above except the angle grinder. A hacksaw would not really take too long provided you can get reasonable access, a jigsaw with say Bosch metal cutting blade would do the job quicker though>

 

Phil

I used bosch blades for the roof and they made an easy job of the roof.

[twbm]

Used an angle grinder on ours. We didn't bother but judicious placing of bacofoil will protect surfaces - gloves and eye protection obviously. You may need a hacksaw for the last bit nearest the cabin side.

[Guest]

Used an angle grinder on ours. We didn't bother but judicious placing of bacofoil will protect surfaces - gloves and eye protection obviously. You may need a hacksaw for the last bit nearest the cabin side.

Full face shield if using angle grinder at that height! You should have seen my son's boat race when a wheel exploded on him. A fluke you might say, but he still bears the scars.

[Richard10002]

I think it'll be a jigsaw with a Bosch blade. Just need to wait for my mate with the jigsaw to get back from his Irish fishing trip.

 

Thanks again for all the input and advice!

[Captain Fizz]

Reciprocating saw with a fine blade 24tpi will cut it easily and you only need to get to one side. I doubt you will get a jigsaw all the way round.

[Guest]

Reciprocating saw with a fine blade 24tpi will cut it easily and you only need to get to one side. I doubt you will get a jigsaw all the way round.

That's a good point, angle grinder would have similar problems (on my boat that is.)

[blackrose]

I can't see any problem about using an angle grinder apart from the possible fire hazard from the sparks and the mess it will make inside the boat. I've used angle grinders all day on a daily basis while up a ladder and never found it much more difficult or dangerous than standing on the ground.

That's a good point, angle grinder would have similar problems (on my boat that is.)

In that case it could just be finished off with a hacksaw

[Guest]

I can't see any problem about using an angle grinder apart from the possible fire hazard from the sparks and the mess it will make inside the boat. I've used angle grinders all day on a daily basis while up a ladder and never found it much more difficult or dangerous than standing on the ground.

 

In that case it could just be finished off with a hacksaw

That's what my lad used to say

There have been some nasty accidents with angle grinders over the years, and they were one power tool that were totally banned by the education authority for whom I once worked. Students would never be allowed to use them of course, but following various accidents even technology staff were banned. They remind me of chainsaws a bit in that the proper kit will cost maybe as much as the grinder. (full face shield to correct standard for starters.)

 

A hacksaw should easily finish off the bit that a power tool will not reach.

Edited June 2, 2014 by Guest

[blackrose]

That's what my lad used to say

There have been some nasty accidents with angle grinders over the years, and they were one power tool that were totally banned by the education authority for whom I once worked. Students would never be allowed to use them of course, but following various accidents even technology staff were banned. They remind me of chainsaws a bit in that the proper kit will cost maybe as much as the grinder. (full face shield to correct standard for starters.)

 

A hacksaw should easily finish off the bit that a power tool will not reach.

 

 

Plenty of people have accidents with angle-grinders as well as all sorts of other tools.

 

You have to give any tool its proper respect, but the bottom line is that if you're not confident in using a power tool then you shouldn't be using it.

 

You don't necessarily need a full face shield - it really depends what you're doing. Goggles are usually fine for most jobs including cutting steel. The rest of the PPE is just a dustmask, ear defenders, safety boots and gloves.

 

http://www.aviva.co.uk/risksolutions/help/faq/answer/1466/

Edited June 3, 2014 by blackrose

[Guest]

 

 

Plenty of people have accidents with angle-grinders as well as all sorts of other tools.

 

You have to give any tool its proper respect, but the bottom line is that if you're not confident in using a power tool then you shouldn't be using it.

 

You don't necessarily need a full face shield - it really depends what you're doing. Goggles are usually fine for most jobs including cutting steel. The rest of the PPE is just a dustmask, ear defenders, safety boots and gloves.

 

http://www.aviva.co.uk/risksolutions/help/faq/answer/1466/

I personally wouldn't use an angle grinder for cutting without a full face shield, especially at height. Others must do as they think fit; their head/face, their business. I have warned of the pitfalls based on my son's experience, my conscience is clear.

[BEngo]

The best tool would be a chain pipe cutter like www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5885120K. Just rock it to and fro till the pipe is cut

 

They can be hired.

 

No mess, designed for the job and you get a cut that can be welded up again if needed.

 

N

[Guest]

The best tool would be a chain pipe cutter like www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5885120K. Just rock it to and fro till the pipe is cut

 

They can be hired.

 

No mess, designed for the job and you get a cut that can be welded up again if needed.

 

N

Never seen one of those before. Looks a good piece of kit.

[blackrose]

I personally wouldn't use an angle grinder for cutting without a full face shield, especially at height. Others must do as they think fit; their head/face, their business. I have warned of the pitfalls based on my son's experience, my conscience is clear.

 

I'm sure we've all heard lots of stories about accidents with angle grinders as well as other power tools. They all serve as warnings but I'm afraid if a disc explodes then the tool isn't being used properly and whoever is using it is doing something very wrong! Either that or it was a really poor quality disc.

Edited June 3, 2014 by blackrose

[Guest]

 

I'm sure we've all heard lots of stories about accidents with angle grinders as well as other power tools. They all serve as warnings but I'm afraid if a disc explodes then the tool isn't being used properly and whoever is using it is doing something very wrong! Either that or it was a really poor quality disc.

T'was a good make disc used properly. My son is no dummy when it comes to working on vehicles, being time served with proper tradesmen. He was subsequently cleared of any wrong doing at an inquiry. I'm afraid your assumptions are very wrong on this occasion. Have the last word if you wish; I have nothing else to add on this subject of angle grinder safety.

Edited June 3, 2014 by Guest

[Richard10002]

The best tool would be a chain pipe cutter like www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5885120K. Just rock it to and fro till the pipe is cut

 

They can be hired.

 

No mess, designed for the job and you get a cut that can be welded up again if needed.

 

N

 

Good find! Just ordered one of these - looks the same/similar.

 

http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/product/gripper-plus-pipe-cutter-cuts_size.html?gclid=CIK6o7TB3r4CFfQbtAodKR0AIg

 

Just over £40 including postage. Not much more than the cost of hiring for a day from HSS.

 

Fingers crossed I'm not buying Cheap and buying Twice

[Guest]

 

Good find! Just ordered one of these - looks the same/similar.

 

http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/product/gripper-plus-pipe-cutter-cuts_size.html?gclid=CIK6o7TB3r4CFfQbtAodKR0AIg

 

Just over £40 including postage. Not much more than the cost of hiring for a day from HSS.

 

Fingers crossed I'm not buying Cheap and buying Twice

Will be very interested to see the outcome of this tool. It looks like a clean and safe way to do things. Good luck.