Locks of the door variety

[Hattie]

Does anyone have chubb locks on their doors? At the mo we've got huge padlocks on either end, but this doesn't work so well when we're in the boat and/or one of us wants to lock up from the inside while the otjher person is out. Was thinking some kind of chubb/key lock would work best but not sure if this would be suitable for our (steel) doors... Thanks in advance, H

[Hattie]

Does anyone have chubb locks on their doors? At the mo we've got huge padlocks on either end, but this doesn't work so well when we're in the boat and/or one of us wants to lock up from the inside while the otjher person is out. Was thinking some kind of chubb/key lock would work best but not sure if this would be suitable for our (steel) doors... Thanks in advance, H

[Ex- Member]

Generally boat doors aren't thick enough to fit good quality locks like mortise locks if that's what you mean by Chub lock, Chub make loads of different locks.

 

I fitted a thick engine room door which allowed for a good mortise lock, but we carry on using padlocks on the main front and stern doors. If you fit bolts internally, you don't need to padlock either the stern or bow. With no lock in sight people can assume you're aboard. Padlock both ends they know you're not there. We have 2 heavy 6 inch bolts on the bow doors and exit through the stern if away for a long period.

 

Try to buy good quality padlocks that has a closed hasp that can't be bolt cropped easily. At the end of the day though if someone's determined to break in, they most likely will. Making it look difficult is a deterrent though.

 

Having said all that, bear in mind if you have big windows, it doesn't matter how good a padlock is or any other lock you fit, as a brick through the window is much quicker and easier than breaking in through a difficult padlock, and much quicker access & exit for a burglar.

[Mike Jordan]

If you want to fit a five lever security dead lock, the normal practise is to thicken the location with a pad of hardwood glued and screwed in place on the inner face of the door and cut the mortise in that. A similar pad is needed on the other door to take the lock keeper. ( It will need a keyhole cut through the steel door)

If you go for the padlock option its important to remember to remove both padlocks and ensure the means of escape while you are in the boat.

I might be able to find a photo if needed.

Mike.

Edited September 10, 2013 by Mike Jordan

[Hattie]

Thanks guys. Yes, I think ideally we didn't want padlocks to be visible really (plus remembering to leave them both open at night, as you said, is something I can see us forgetting to do!) so anything that can be opened by a key but has bolts internally (so perhaps fitting a thicker pad to get a motise lock would be a good idea). I just wasn't sure if there was a generic lock used by boaters etc

Edited September 10, 2013 by Hattie

[Mike Jordan]

The chandlers do sell a thin rim lock which fits on the back face of the door but they are not very robust and rather pricy.

Mike.

[BargeeSpud]

We have a Chubb 5 lever lock fitted to our steel doors & it's never been a problem for us. We both have a key & we never leave a key in the lock when one of us locks ourselves in, not that we do that on a regular basis for safety reasons, but I guess that depends on where you're moored at the time!

Edited September 10, 2013 by Spuds

[David Mack]

Does anyone have chubb locks on their doors? At the mo we've got huge padlocks on either end, but this doesn't work so well when we're in the boat and/or one of us wants to lock up from the inside while the otjher person is out.

 

And it doesn't work so well when you enter the boat from one end and leave the padlock still locked at the other. That's your emergency exit gone, possibly leaving you trapped in the bedroom with a raging inferno between you and the door you entered by. Locks which can be opened from the inside without the use of a key are much safer.

[Ex- Member]

 

And it doesn't work so well when you enter the boat from one end and leave the padlock still locked at the other. That's your emergency exit gone, possibly leaving you trapped in the bedroom with a raging inferno between you and the door you entered by. Locks which can be opened from the inside without the use of a key are much safer.

 

If it's done the same way we suggested that's impossible as only one end is padlocked and that's your only way in so you have to unlock it.

[nickfryer]

I did not want a padlock on my new boat so have fitted one of these to the rear doors/sliding hatch.

 

 

Its made by the american yale company. seems to work great.

 

Nick

[FadeToScarlet]

Duplicate topics merged.

[Captain Fizz]

I did not want a padlock on my new boat so have fitted one of these to the rear doors/sliding hatch.

 

 

Its made by the american yale company. seems to work great.

 

Nick

That's a neat solution, who supplies them?

[Pykebird]

I have a normal yale lock on my doors fitted upside down, so the lock stops the hatch from being slid open. This ensures the doors are locked. No one can tell if the boat is occupied and all I have is a keyhole shaped hole in the door. I can also lock it from the inside if I choose to .Inside I have two bolts that keep the doors closed if I want the hatch open

[Lady Muck]

I've got a Yale lock on our front metal doors, which are also bolted top and bottom on inside, we had an attempted but failed break-in through those doors one Christmas - they're metal with curved edges and seem to fit very flush.

[Ex- Member]

I've got a Yale lock on our front metal doors, which are also bolted top and bottom on inside, we had an attempted but failed break-in through those doors one Christmas - they're metal with curved edges and seem to fit very flush.

 

Internal bolts are better than locks IMO We have 12mm bolts top and bottom of cratch doors, I slightly slanted the bolt holes so as the bolt goes into the slot it also pulls the door tighter. The cratch doors being steel and a good fit, especially the central join, it's really tricky to get any kind of crow bar into gaps. Even if managed the bolts go into 6mm thick Brass door frame surround set in a main steel frame.

 

The problem with stern doors being a pair and then incorporating a sliding hatch, this is much easier to access by force as crowbars and the like have plenty of areas to get good purchase. With this in mind we concentrated mainly on securing the engine room door to the main part of the boat by fitting a solid quality 30mm marine ply door fitted with a mortise lock plated over in 6mm Brass. So any forced access through the stern doors or sliding hatch will only lead to more strenuous work for an intruder.

 

We also use a 6mm stainless steel chain system for the stern doors and sliding hatch as we like to keep one door open 4 inches for the cats to enter & exit the boat. This makes it look like the door is open, so people would assume someone is on the boat.

 

We've had nothing nicked off the roof yet either, fingers crossed LOL

Edited September 11, 2013 by Julynian

[ditchcrawler]

If you want to fit a five lever security dead lock, the normal practise is to thicken the location with a pad of hardwood glued and screwed in place on the inner face of the door and cut the mortise in that. A similar pad is needed on the other door to take the lock keeper. ( It will need a keyhole cut through the steel door)

If you go for the padlock option its important to remember to remove both padlocks and ensure the means of escape while you are in the boat.

I might be able to find a photo if needed.

Mike.

I had a small steel box welded on with fixing lugs to fit the mortise lock in and drilled/filed a keyhole through.