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Hammerite


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It's very brittle and chips easily, but that seems to be true of boat paints too (or is that because of the way I scraped through the locks) unsure.png

IIRC Hammerite starts curing after 4 hours, so, depending on the area you're covering, it might have started curing before you have chance to put on the second coat, in which case you have to wait 6 weeks before over painting.

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At around 9 quid for a small tin and ( according to them ) not to be thinned , it seems like an expensive way to paint a boat . Just used it on small parts on my engine , covers OK but I'd put on 2-3 coats on panels as you'll need to cut it back .

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I think you'll have a job getting a good finish brush painting large topside areas with it, its very viscous and dries too quickly to flow out properly, unless there's an additive retarder drops for it. I wouldn't use it for that purpose at all, if I did I would spray it.

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Hammerite garage door paint brushes normally and dries at the slower rate which I've used and it smells like oil paint and thins with white spirit or turps and gave a good gloss finish and was tough. Limited colours though, I used Chestnut brown, I think there's a white. green and red too.

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The original stuff had to be thinned with it's own thinners (xylene, I think - it certainly smelled like xylene). The current stuff is different, and seems gloopier

 

I haven't tried the garage door paint

 

Richard

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Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps

 

Dunno about the new stuff

 

Richard

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Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps

 

Dunno about the new stuff

 

Richard

IME Owatrol oil works well with Hammerite Direct to Rust, despite the instructions on the can.

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Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps

 

Dunno about the new stuff

 

Richard

It did, I have an old 250ml tin of smooth dark green with a £3.75 label still on it in front of me. Any paint including fast drying will give a good brush finish on curvy rounded surfaces it seems to stretch and flow out nicely. Its when you try to brush paint large or vertical surfaces with that old Hammerite or any fast drying paint that you run into trouble with viscous brush drag and ruin the job. A bit like trying to brush the old cellulose paint, another brush stroke immediately upon the first and ruined.

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I've used rustoleum on engine bay and that worked quite well - bit sticky but not so much as hammerite. Claims to be thinnable with white spirit. I got it cos it was silver!

 

It's not cheap either - same as hammerite at my local trade paint place.

 

Some people have told me dulux weathershield is a really good top coat - and there is a boat done in it locally (not moves about much) which does look 'as new' 8 years on.

 

Wouldn't think it'd stand up to much wear though. Cheap mind: )

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The original stuff had to be thinned with it's own thinners (xylene, I think - it certainly smelled like xylene). The current stuff is different, and seems gloopier

 

I haven't tried the garage door paint

 

Richard

 

It was xylene although you could clean the paint using cellulose thinners. Yellow smoothrite was an exact match for BL/MG Inca yellow and was great for floor and boot areas.

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