Tomska Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Anybody ever painted a boat with it? This stuff claims to be primer, undercoat and gloss in one. If something seems too good to be true it usually is. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Son Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I am told it chips easily. Never used it so don't know for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chalky Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I use it on the Gunwales. Can take 2 coats to fully cover however it does what it says. Not suitable for highly cosmetic applications but more than ideal for a wear zone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Try doing a forum search on Hammerite, you should find several threads on it Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomska Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Ah thanks. Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p6rob Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 It's very brittle and chips easily, but that seems to be true of boat paints too (or is that because of the way I scraped through the locks) IIRC Hammerite starts curing after 4 hours, so, depending on the area you're covering, it might have started curing before you have chance to put on the second coat, in which case you have to wait 6 weeks before over painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bottle Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Hammerite is ideal for metal objects that do not move and will not be hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Lola Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Works fine gunwhales and below, how you apply determines how much it chips. I occasionally repair marks ( not on rubbing strakes) never had a problem, so far. I only coated once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickH Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 At around 9 quid for a small tin and ( according to them ) not to be thinned , it seems like an expensive way to paint a boat . Just used it on small parts on my engine , covers OK but I'd put on 2-3 coats on panels as you'll need to cut it back . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Have you tried cutting back Hammerite? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Lola Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I paid £55 for 5 litres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I think you'll have a job getting a good finish brush painting large topside areas with it, its very viscous and dries too quickly to flow out properly, unless there's an additive retarder drops for it. I wouldn't use it for that purpose at all, if I did I would spray it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickH Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Have you tried cutting back Hammerite? Richard I have on a very small area , it worked but you do need 3 coats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I have on a very small area , it worked but you do need 3 coats I'm impressed! Do you know if this is the current stuff or the old formula? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Hammerite garage door paint brushes normally and dries at the slower rate which I've used and it smells like oil paint and thins with white spirit or turps and gave a good gloss finish and was tough. Limited colours though, I used Chestnut brown, I think there's a white. green and red too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 The original stuff had to be thinned with it's own thinners (xylene, I think - it certainly smelled like xylene). The current stuff is different, and seems gloopier I haven't tried the garage door paint Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luctor et emergo Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I find it best to ignore the instructions on the tin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Lola Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 There were instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps Dunno about the new stuff Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps Dunno about the new stuff Richard IME Owatrol oil works well with Hammerite Direct to Rust, despite the instructions on the can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Hammerite is one of the few products I have tried where you had to use the right thinners. If not, it would separate out into lumps Dunno about the new stuff Richard It did, I have an old 250ml tin of smooth dark green with a £3.75 label still on it in front of me. Any paint including fast drying will give a good brush finish on curvy rounded surfaces it seems to stretch and flow out nicely. Its when you try to brush paint large or vertical surfaces with that old Hammerite or any fast drying paint that you run into trouble with viscous brush drag and ruin the job. A bit like trying to brush the old cellulose paint, another brush stroke immediately upon the first and ruined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Cellulose is Real Man's paint Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Vale Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I've used rustoleum on engine bay and that worked quite well - bit sticky but not so much as hammerite. Claims to be thinnable with white spirit. I got it cos it was silver! It's not cheap either - same as hammerite at my local trade paint place. Some people have told me dulux weathershield is a really good top coat - and there is a boat done in it locally (not moves about much) which does look 'as new' 8 years on. Wouldn't think it'd stand up to much wear though. Cheap mind: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_crew Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hammerite is NOT good for petrol applications as it softens / melts. Not that should worry the oil-burners amongst us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chalky Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 The original stuff had to be thinned with it's own thinners (xylene, I think - it certainly smelled like xylene). The current stuff is different, and seems gloopier I haven't tried the garage door paint Richard It was xylene although you could clean the paint using cellulose thinners. Yellow smoothrite was an exact match for BL/MG Inca yellow and was great for floor and boot areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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