cratch board

[BeninReading]

Hi all,

 

I was recently quoted over a grand for the above and thought I would explore making it myself. Does anyone have any experience or recommend any suppliers of the cover? Thanks in advance for any help. Ben

[AlanH]

Hi all,

 

I was recently quoted over a grand for the above and thought I would explore making it myself. Does anyone have any experience or recommend any suppliers of the cover? Thanks in advance for any help. Ben

Wouldn't have one. The cover will cost a fortune. It would make acccess to gas lockers very difficult. My last boat had one and it turned into a shed full of junk. Both the boss and I like to sit out in the well deck without crouching when we are travelling. Don't really need the extra enclosed space. Particularly wouldn't want one if we had a trad stern - there would be virtually no outside space for anyone except the steerer.

[Machpoint005]

Completely disagree with Alan - ours is very useful indeed, the cover comes off completely when you want to sit on the foredeck, there is no restriction of access to the gas locker (which is right at the front, not under the cratch), and it's good to be able to get stuff from the seat lockers in the foredeck when it's cold, dark and p1ssing it down.

 

About a grand for the supporting structure and the cover (half for each) seems about right. It's cheaper if there is an old cover to use as a template for the new one.

 

It might make a difference that on a 48ft boat, the extra space can be handy.

[Nickhlx]

Completely disagree with Alan - ours is very useful indeed, the cover comes off completely when you want to sit on the foredeck, there is no restriction of access to the gas locker (which is right at the front, not under the cratch), and it's good to be able to get stuff from the seat lockers in the foredeck when it's cold, dark and p1ssing it down.

 

About a grand for the supporting structure and the cover (half for each) seems about right. It's cheaper if there is an old cover to use as a template for the new one.

 

It might make a difference that on a 48ft boat, the extra space can be handy.

 

We have semi-trad and covers front and rear - best thing I did. The front sides roll up when under way and for the summer months you can remove the whole structure in 20 mins.

 

Over the rear we had a pram hood and all side panels can be zippable off - superb when raining or in winter - keeps inside warmer when going out, allows work on the engine when its chucking it down or freezing outside and gives a quick refuge when returning to the boat when raining. Its even possible to cruise when raining with just the top and whichever side the wind is, up. With no wind, and no sides up, you can snap open two clips and collapse the roof in 5 seconds for a low bridge / tunnel. Best thing we did... ( I do hate the cold and wet !! )

 

Nick

Edited March 9, 2011 by Nickhlx

[AlanH]

Completely disagree with Alan - ours is very useful indeed, the cover comes off completely when you want to sit on the foredeck, there is no restriction of access to the gas locker (which is right at the front, not under the cratch), and it's good to be able to get stuff from the seat lockers in the foredeck when it's cold, dark and p1ssing it down.

 

About a grand for the supporting structure and the cover (half for each) seems about right. It's cheaper if there is an old cover to use as a template for the new one.

 

It might make a difference that on a 48ft boat, the extra space can be handy.

You still have a board over your head and a triangular structure in front. Nowhere near as nice as an unobstructed view and you still have to find somewhere to store the cover. Our gas locker is in front not in the well deck and I've seen others struggling to balance with a cylinder across the gap between bank and bow. Another point is that getting out of the front doors is made more difficult by having to bend down all the time.

 

Our boat is only 42ft and we don't need the well deck enclosing.

[Chalky]

I made my own, materials for board and cover cost about £200. I've got perspex windows in the front and the cover used automotive grade hooding material. I've got a 40' boat and the well deck gives a useful storage space for all the kids detritus.

[AlanH]

I made my own, materials for board and cover cost about £200. I've got perspex windows in the front and the cover used automotive grade hooding material. I've got a 40' boat and the well deck gives a useful storage space for all the kids detritus.

It is the same as the PO/Elsan argument. I certainly wouldn't spend £2500 on front and rear covers. I have owned a boat with a cratch cover and found it a nusiance. Others like them.

Never had (or wanted) a rear canopy. All my friends who have one cruise with it down because it won't go under the bridges around our way and they have no wipers so they can't see in the rain anyway. When they moor up they spend time putting the thing up only to take it down in the morning. I have a simple polythene sheet which I can use if I want to work on the engine in the rain.

 

I don't see the point. Others do so there is no answer.

[nb Innisfree]

It is the same as the PO/Elsan argument. I certainly wouldn't spend £2500 on front and rear covers. I have owned a boat with a cratch cover and found it a nusiance. Others like them.

Never had (or wanted) a rear canopy. All my friends who have one cruise with it down because it won't go under the bridges around our way and they have no wipers so they can't see in the rain anyway. When they moor up they spend time putting the thing up only to take it down in the morning. I have a simple polythene sheet which I can use if I want to work on the engine in the rain.

 

I don't see the point. Others do so there is no answer.

 

If you can't see out of a pramhood when it's raining then it's a question of design. Our pramhood and many others we have seen allows cruising with good forward vision. The point is keeping steerer and crew dry, same with a cratch cover. I can also see the point in not having covers

[J R]

Hi all,

 

I was recently quoted over a grand for the above and thought I would explore making it myself. Does anyone have any experience or recommend any suppliers of the cover? Thanks in advance for any help. Ben

 

In the quote you have been given, make sure that the cratch is made from hardwood, oak for instance. Somw suppliers will palm you off with soft wood which will rot out in a couple of years. Cratch cover makers prices where ever you go go will be quoting around the same prices. They are short of work, sadly, so will kive you a keen price.

[David Schweizer]

I made the deck board for our boat myself, complete with recessed panels and mouldings. The board is in three sections, a central board about 9" wide with two triangular hinged wings which can be lifted off if more visibility is required, plus a 9" wide top plank. The materials for the board cost about £60 and the cover was £650 from AJ Canopies of Braunston.The first cover also made by AJ Canopies lasted ten years and cost £500.

 

We have little choice as to whether we have a deck board and Cratch Cover, as the well deck is below the waterline and there are no scuppers. The hinged wings are more useful for increasing visibilty than access to the front locker, as the gas bottles are too far down to be reached from inside the boat.

[J R]

I made the deck board for our boat myself, complete with recessed panels and mouldings. The board is in three sections, a central board about 9" wide with two triangular hinged wings which can be lifted off if more visibility is required, plus a 9" wide top plank. The materials for the board cost about £60 and the cover was £650 from AJ Canopies of Braunston.The first cover also made by AJ Canopies lasted ten years and cost £500.

 

We have little choice as to whether we have a deck board and Cratch Cover, as the well deck is below the waterline and there are no scuppers. The hinged wings are more useful for increasing visibilty than access to the front locker, as the gas bottles are too far down to be reached from inside the boat.

 

Garlands of Bristol and Wilsons of Kinver seem to be quite popular for cratch covers, and both makes look good on boats.

[Old Son]

I have been looking around for bothe Cratch and Pram hood. I have the harwood cratch frame. I found Wilson's to be very expensive. AJ Canopies sounded the keenest but they could not do anything until April and wanted the boat for three weeks. I have ended up getting a local sial maker to do the job for me, about £2k for cratch cover with two windows each side and blinds plus s/s pram frame, pram frame cover withe blinds to all windows plus dogger(?).

 

I was very pleased with price. I was told the guy wouyld not be reliable but at the moment he is on target to be completed by end of March. Fingers crossed.

[BeninReading]

Thanks for all the responses - very informative. I am 6'4" so, may hold off due to the cost and hassle of having to duck all the time while under cratch! Also, I love the unobstructed view. Thanks, Ben

[Chertsey]

You still have a board over your head and a triangular structure in front. Nowhere near as nice as an unobstructed view and you still have to find somewhere to store the cover. Our gas locker is in front not in the well deck and I've seen others struggling to balance with a cylinder across the gap between bank and bow. Another point is that getting out of the front doors is made more difficult by having to bend down all the time.

 

Our boat is only 42ft and we don't need the well deck enclosing.

Must agree about that from when I had my little 32 footer. It had a cover and a nice deckboard, but when we took it off to paint the boat, realised it looked so much nicer without it. The space was still useful, for outdoor type stuff which always needs to be stored somewhere. And SO much easier to get at the gas locker. Lots of people will decide they do need it covered, but give it a try without first - you might surprise yourself.

[Water Rat.]

I keep thinking I would like a cratch board but have enough trouble lifting the gas bottles in and out of the locker without so have no idea how I would manage with one. I do have a front cover over the well deck and have had a 'window' put in it. It cost me thirty quid and means I can open the doors at the front and see out without removing the cover. It is wonderful and a pretty good compromise. It also lets in the light.

[geehils]

We had a board and cover made for our boat a few years back, which cost around £1k for construction, signwriting and cover and we were very happy with the outcome; particularly in the colder weather. It is quite time consuming, measuring for the board, constructing, painting, fitting and then a similar process for the cover. We opted for a frame with large front windows and heavy duty hood with no windows and it is quite light and airy with the cover in place. For cruising we simply rolled the sides up.

 

If I was doing it again I would specify:

 

1. Looser joints for the board, once painted they became very tight and even tighter once out in the open.

2. Cordura material (same as convertible car hoods) as I think it looks that little bit smarter and less 'plasticky'

 

The only downside, for us, was access to the gas bottles in the front locker, which has become harder.

 

Overall, I wouldn't want a boat without one, but it is a bit of a 'Marmite' topic

[Bones]

Kedian Enginnering (Kedian on this forum) does the structure...

[David Mack]

Kedian Enginnering (Kedian on this forum) does the structure...

For a modern non-traditional boat, why stick with the triangular wooden deck board and 9 inch wide top plank?

 

I am surprised you don't see more boats with a couple of diagonal tubes at the front and a simple tubular ridge pole at the top, all slotted together in the manner of tent poles, and a canopy which includes the front piece. That way the frame, if left in position, is much less intrusive in terms of access to the gas locker, getting on and off the boat and its effect on the view. Or the frame can easily be removed, with nothing more than three light poles to store.

 

Should be cheaper than the standard solution as well.

 

David

[WotEver]

I am surprised you don't see more boats with a couple of diagonal tubes...

Kinver Canopies do something similar:

 

Tony

[deletedaccount]

How do you make the tubes 'stick' to the hull?

[WotEver]

How do you make the tubes 'stick' to the hull?

Dunno, but best guess would be a fitment that the tubes slide over into which you then insert a pin of some kind. I guess you could email KC and ask them

 

Tony

[deletedaccount]

I ask because the only reason I've not finished my cratch is I don't know how to fix the plank to the roof (the board I can do). I can't drill holes in the roof because of the way it's made and I'm doubting glue is gonnaa hold it

[WotEver]

Ooohhh... don't you have an overhang of the roof over the front doors? Normally the board support is just screwed down through two holes in that overhang.

 

Tony

[Grace and Favour]

I ask because the only reason I've not finished my cratch is I don't know how to fix the plank to the roof (the board I can do). I can't drill holes in the roof because of the way it's made and I'm doubting glue is gonnaa hold it

 

 

Ooohhh... don't you have an overhang of the roof over the front doors? Normally the board support is just screwed down through two holes in that overhang.

 

Tony

 

If you don't have an overhang over the front doors, you could either stick the plank to the roof (for a permanent job) (Screfix currently have 'STICKS LIKE SH*T' (Bostik) on offer)

 

or, for a removable plank, consider rebating a LOT of rare earth magnets to the face of one end of the plank . . . . . it'll find your cabin roof quite attractive

[deletedaccount]

Ooohhh... don't you have an overhang of the roof over the front doors? Normally the board support is just screwed down through two holes in that overhang.

 

Tony

 

Problem is it's folded over and sealed, so it has an apparent depth of about an inch. It sticks out about 6 inches but I don't want to drill through as I'm guessing it's hollow and I don't want the middle to fill with water/rust. I'm probably worrying about nothing though. Please tell me I'm worrying about nothing

 

 

or, for a removable plank, consider rebating a LOT of rare earth magnets to the face of one end of the plank . . . . . it'll find your cabin roof quite attractive

 

You know what, I have a ton of old speaker drivers with massive magnets. 10 in fact. It'll never work though, will it?

 

I think I'll go down the sticks like s*it route.

 

Stick a wooden block or similar to the roof then attach the plank to that = removable plank.