Raw water pump impeller replacement

[Ian F B]

I need to replace the impeller on my pump,the engime is a Thorneycroft Type 55,can anycne confirm that the direction of rotation of the impeller is clockwise as obviously its quite hard to get at and I dont want to have to do it twice

Cheers,

Ian.

P.S any information on my boat would be appreciated with regards to its history,it was named Finedon Nomad in thelate 80s early 90s.

Thanks again.

[Albion]

I need to replace the impeller on my pump,the engime is a Thorneycroft Type 55,can anycne confirm that the direction of rotation of the impeller is clockwise as obviously its quite hard to get at and I dont want to have to do it twice

Cheers,

Ian.

P.S any information on my boat would be appreciated with regards to its history,it was named Finedon Nomad in thelate 80s early 90s.

Thanks again.

 

The direction of rotation is often marked on the cover that you remove to access the impeller. Isn't there an arrow on the cover?

Roger

[koukouvagia]

Note which way the shaft rotates when it's being driven by the engine. Then looking from the cover end, if the rotation is clockwise, insert the impeller into the pump body with the blades bending anti-clockwise (or vice versa if the rotation of the shaft is anti-clockwise.

 

This is what the manuals say, but to be perfectly honest, the impeller blades will squash themselves into the correct position if you turn the shaft over gently.

 

I'm assuming you know which way the pump rotates but you were asking how to fit the impeller. Sorry if I've misunderstood your question.

[Ian F B]

Thanks for your replies,the pump does rotate clockwise when viewed from the impeller side.Replacing was fairly simple apart from getting the impeller to fully fit on to the shaft.Liberal greasing with the supplied lube is a must but even so the impeller still was proud of the pump by 5mm.this was solved by refitting the faceplate,(which wasnt arrowmarked with the rotation direction)and gently levering with a screwdriver using the starter motor housing as a fulcrum.Once it was seating I took the cover off again and refitted the sealing O ring.On start up it was pumping very poorly but by removing the hose at the exhaust end and priming the pump, water was shooting approximately four feet out of the blunt end (or stern to the purists).

I unerstand Jabsco make an Impeller remover but I doubt if there is room to use it on this engine without removing the starter motor.

the part nos for the impeller are as follows;

Jabsco 653-0001-P; Johnson 09-1026B-9.

Hope this is of use to somebody else.

Cheers .

Ian F.B.

[bluegreencanal]

I had to remove a broken fin from my raw water impeller and need to reseal the housing

 

does anyone know where to find a replacemnt seal for a johnson 09-810b-1

 

Or is there an alternative product so you can make a new seal? Long shot maybe...

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Sue

[koukouvagia]

 

does anyone know where to find a replacemnt seal for a johnson 09-810b-1

 

 

Try Cleghorn Waring.

Edited March 3, 2011 by koukouvagia

[Boaty Jo]

I had to remove a broken fin from my raw water impeller and need to reseal the housing

 

does anyone know where to find a replacemnt seal for a johnson 09-810b-1

 

Or is there an alternative product so you can make a new seal? Long shot maybe...

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Sue

 

Would you not be better replacing the impeller before you re-seal it?

If one fin has gone others may well be suspect

[bluegreencanal]

Would you not be better replacing the impeller before you re-seal it?

If one fin has gone others may well be suspect

 

Yes, but they are expensive and i dont mind replacinig it when it doesnt pump anymore. Its been limping along all spring...famous last words.

It does need resealing tho, i found a product called XLS or something like that ...then my dad said make a seal with cornflake box and varnish. Have yet to try this one but should be fun making a seal and punching out the holes in the right place...

[Iain_S]

(snip)...then my dad said make a seal with cornflake box and varnish. Have yet to try this one but should be fun making a seal and punching out the holes in the right place...

 

Small ball pein hammer, tapping card against pump cover. Might be better with a postcard rather than a cornflake packet, though (And I'd grease rather than varnish

 

Iain

[RLWP]

Small ball pein hammer, tapping card against pump cover. <snip>

 

Iain

 

When I was an apprentice the head of department would have had me thrown out for doing that.

 

So we had to do it in secret

 

Richard

 

Agree about the grease, except I'd use gasket paper as it's pretty cheap

 

Incidentally, if you have a scanner/printer, it's sometimes possible to put the component on the face of the scanner, cut the gasket paper to A4 size and print the shape you want to cut out. I've blacked the face with a pen to make a better print

 

Richard

[paulcatchpole]

Incidentally, if you have a scanner/printer, it's sometimes possible to put the component on the face of the scanner, cut the gasket paper to A4 size and print the shape you want to cut out. I've blacked the face with a pen to make a better print

 

Richard

 

Now that's a clever idea!

 

I like it!

 

PC

[Tony Brooks]

Small ball pein hammer, tapping card against pump cover. Might be better with a postcard rather than a cornflake packet, though (And I'd grease rather than varnish

 

Iain

 

 

And using any form of card on one of these pumps stands a good chance of preventing it pumping - those gaskets are THIN. Use thin gasket paper. However new gaskets are now normally supplied with the new impeller. Most larger chandlers usually stock the gaskets.

 

Having only scan read the thread it strikes me as odd that anyone would risk expensive boiling damage for the cost of a new impeller which many would say needs changing every year or two.

[by'eck]

As Tony suggests under normal circumstances only use the supplied, relatively thin gaskets between end cover & pump body after impeller replacement. Pump efficiency will be compromised otherwise.

 

Having said that, I did have a badly machined Johnson pump that with standard single gasket, allowed the brass securing screw heads to pop off one by one. The answer was to use two thin gaskets.

 

Also worth mentioning are grooves worn in end cover after long use. When excessive these can similarly compromise pump efficiency. The answer is to grind cover flat or if symmetrical just flip over & use fresh outer side.

 

Finally I remember fitting an after market custom end cover to the raw water pump on the Thorneycroft engine in my Moody. This was of substantial thickness & machined to take sealing "O" ring. It was secured with thumb screws for quick replacement. It worked well although not sure if they are still available.