Rust treatment/prevention on new sailaway

[Cosmic]

I picked up a new sailaway about a month ago and now some areas of rust are starting to appear in places through the grey primer.

 

I've seen several people recommend using Vactan as a rust treatment but it seems that this is only available over the internet, which is a non-starter as I no longer have a postal address.

 

Fertan is another name that's cropped up quite often, and it seems that the nearest stockist to me (I'm in Tamworth ATM, and heading south towards London) is at Whilton Chandlery, which I can get to some time next week.

 

A boater I was talking to recently suggested using a metal sealer (something like this, I presume) instead, the idea being that this will prevent any more rust forming and allow more time to apply the remaining coats.

 

I haven't heard of other people using a sealer over grey primer. Does this sound reasonable? If so, how would I use it over the rusty bits - remove the primer, treat with Fertan and coat with sealer, or should the Fertan have a coat of grey primer under the sealer?

 

Thanks

[paulcatchpole]

I've seen several people recommend using Vactan as a rust treatment but it seems that this is only available over the internet, which is a non-starter as I no longer have a postal address.

 

I'd use Vactan, aye.

 

For the postal address, poste restante, if you don't have a mailbox.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poste_restante

 

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc...QFQN_ql211zwboQ

 

PC

 

PS: Get a mailbox, they're worth it. http://www.mbe.co.uk

[Biggles]

I bought non branded Vactan from my industrial pant supplier that I have used for years so trust them.

 

I have used it on my new build Linky and am ver please with the way it work.

 

I have previously used Kurust from Hammerite and it looked and acted the same at a fraction of the price. I think it was about £40 for 5L and I have done the roof and the cabin sides and only used about 60% of the tin.

 

If you want their number and can sort out a delivery point let me know.

 

Biggles

[paulcatchpole]

I bought non branded Vactan from my industrial pant supplier that I have used for years so trust them.

 

I have used it on my new build Linky and am ver please with the way it work.

 

I have previously used Kurust from Hammerite and it looked and acted the same at a fraction of the price. I think it was about £40 for 5L and I have done the roof and the cabin sides and only used about 60% of the tin.

 

If you want their number and can sort out a delivery point let me know.

 

Biggles

 

I'd spotted the pics on your blog - it looks just like our 'genuine' Vactan as you applied it.

 

Isn't Fertan, a rinse-it-off product? If so, that's an annoyance you don't have with vactan at least!

 

PC

[dor]

I haven't heard of other people using a sealer over grey primer. Does this sound reasonable?

 

Primer is porous so if you don't seal it, rust will break out all over the place.

 

It's normal to put on a "holding coat". This is normally a 50:50 mix of under coat and top coat. If cosmetics aren't important to you, you could try asking a painter if he has any left over paint he will sell you cheap.

 

What you do with the existing rust depends a bit on how long it is going to be before you do the proper paint job and how well you prepare it. If you intend taking it back to bare metal (which you should) then I would be tempted to just remove any loose material and slap the holding coat on.

[David Schweizer]

<snip>I bought non branded Vactan from my industrial pant supplier that I have used for years so trust them. < snip>

 

Biggles

It may also be worth sounding out your local Engineering Supplies factor. I find that our local one can obtain most things for me, but usually at a premium, which is worth it if it is the only way I can source the required item.

[blackrose]

If after removing the rust, you want a red oxide primer that isn't porus and can be left for years without a topcoat, then try Bonda Primer.

 

http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-ru...rimer-121-p.asp

 

Otherwise get a topcoat on asap.

[Cosmic]

Thanks, everyone

 

I think my plan of attack should be:

 

1) Sort out poste restante from the Post Office

 

2) Get some Vactan

 

3) Get some Bonda Primer so I don't have to rush the rest of the painting

[Janet S]

industrial pant supplier

 

The outsize department at M&S?

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

 

Why I read this posts when I don't have a boat I really don't know!

 

Never mind...it's a quick bump to the top for you...

 

Janet

[Cosmic]

These industrial pants - are they capable of remaining in place for several years without allowing the telltale dark patches to start showing through the topcoat?

[blackrose]

Thanks, everyone

 

I think my plan of attack should be:

 

1) Sort out poste restante from the Post Office

 

2) Get some Vactan

 

3) Get some Bonda Primer so I don't have to rush the rest of the painting

 

 

You'll need a bottle of cellulose thinners for the Bonda Primer too - not white spirit.

 

Because the Bonda Pimer isn't porus, before you do eventually put the top coat on, be sure to give it a good key with a fine grade of wet & dry.

Edited June 18, 2010 by blackrose

[Cosmic]

Thanks again - I'll bear that in mind

[J R]

I picked up a new sailaway about a month ago and now some areas of rust are starting to appear in places through the grey primer.

 

I've seen several people recommend using Vactan as a rust treatment but it seems that this is only available over the internet, which is a non-starter as I no longer have a postal address.

 

Fertan is another name that's cropped up quite often, and it seems that the nearest stockist to me (I'm in Tamworth ATM, and heading south towards London) is at Whilton Chandlery, which I can get to some time next week.

 

A boater I was talking to recently suggested using a metal sealer (something like this, I presume) instead, the idea being that this will prevent any more rust forming and allow more time to apply the remaining coats.

 

I haven't heard of other people using a sealer over grey primer. Does this sound reasonable? If so, how would I use it over the rusty bits - remove the primer, treat with Fertan and coat with sealer, or should the Fertan have a coat of grey primer under the sealer?

 

Thanks

 

Just a thought. You picked up your pride & joy a month ago and rust is coming through the primer already. Suggest that you contact the boatbuilder and ask them to sort it out as your boat is still under warrenty.

[nb Innisfree]

Our shell builder sprayed straight over very light rust with International primer and when any paint or blacking is scraped off the primer is still sound 7 year later.

[Cosmic]

Just a thought. You picked up your pride & joy a month ago and rust is coming through the primer already. Suggest that you contact the boatbuilder and ask them to sort it out as your boat is still under warrenty.

There isn't any major rust at the moment - all I can see so far is a yellowy-brown powdery deposit on the surface of the primer in a few places, along with rust where the primer has been scratched off. The shell was delivered to the builder in mid-March so, although I've only had it just over a month, the primer has been on for over three months. As I understand it, the primer should be painted over within a maximum of six months, so that's why I'm looking at it now.

[WotEver]

As I understand it, the primer should be painted over within a maximum of six months...

My understanding has always been that grey primer is porous and should be overcoated immediately it's cured (say a week). But maybe I'm labouring under a misapprehension?

 

Tony

[Cosmic]

You'll need a bottle of cellulose thinners for the Bonda Primer too - not white spirit.

One side-effect I found with this was that the thinners dissolved the rollers I was using, both the foam and the glue that held the foam on the spindle. I'm not quite finished, and I've already used getting on for 20

[ChrisPy]

I used the cheapy foam rollers from B&Q with cellulose, they last about 1 hr.

more expensive ones (Harris??) fell apart in 2 minutes.

worth experimenting.

[Gunna Do]

Take a look at 'For Sale'. There is someone selling some Vactan in the London area.

[Cosmic]

I used the cheapy foam rollers from B&Q with cellulose, they last about 1 hr.

more expensive ones (Harris??) fell apart in 2 minutes.

worth experimenting.

I found that I could do one coat along one side with about 3 or 4, either the Harris ones or the cheapie ones. The Harris rollers tended to stay in one piece until the glue dissolved and the foam just dropped off; the cheap ones (Homebase) tended to fall apart and leave scruffy edges and bits stuck to the paint.

 

Take a look at 'For Sale'. There is someone selling some Vactan in the London area.

Thanks. I've already got the Vactan, but it's good stuff, and I'm sure it'll be useful to someone.

[Christine]

Why I read this posts when I don't have a boat I really don't know!

 

Janet

 

 

I thought it was only me Janet! I read allsorts of cr*p interesting information on here all of which, one day , may be of use in my future NB life.