Battery terminal corrosion protection

[weeble]

I'll be fitting my new batteries next week (under cruiser stern deck). I normally just smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to keep water/condensation at bay but a couple months ago when the RAC replaced my car battery they sprayed the terminals (after connection) with some magic "stuff" which was highly recommended.

I've searched around and there are several spray products on the market. So I just wondered what you guys use (if anything).

Weeble

[WotEver]

I'd say that any of the sprays that are marketed specifically for the purpose would be good. Do not use petroleum jelly or anything else that goes runny when it gets hot (like grease).

 

Tony

[blackrose]

I used some green stuff from Halfrauds. The trouble is that if you need to take a lug off a terminal it gets everywhere and I think all lugs and terminal would have to be thoroughly cleaned before putting them back together. My thinking is that if it insulates and protects the terminal from atmospheric conditions then it might also insulate a lug from a terminal if you put them back together without cleaning them? But I'm sure someone will correct me.

Edited March 25, 2010 by blackrose

[Albion]

I'll be fitting my new batteries next week (under cruiser stern deck). I normally just smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to keep water/condensation at bay but a couple months ago when the RAC replaced my car battery they sprayed the terminals (after connection) with some magic "stuff" which was highly recommended.

I've searched around and there are several spray products on the market. So I just wondered what you guys use (if anything).

Weeble

 

In the trade we used originally to use a Holt's battery terminal protection grease (red) that came in a tube. Don't know whether it is still available. After that we went over to a protective spray (blue in colour IIRC) that came in a mini aerosol that was made by Wurth (one of the specialist automotive trade suppliers of good, but pricey, products for the automotive industry). This had the advantage that it dried hard and didn't hang around waiting to wipe itself over your clothes

Roger

[Guest]

Copper grease

[soldthehouse]

Copper grease

Another copper grease fan

[OldGoldy]

I used some green stuff from Halfrauds. The trouble is that if you need to take a lug off a terminal it gets everywhere and I think all lugs and terminal would have to be thoroughly cleaned before putting them back together. My thinking is that if it insulates and protects the terminal from atmospheric conditions then it might also insulate a lug from a terminal if you put them back together without cleaning them? But I'm sure someone will correct me.

When I used to install electromechanical automatic switchboards, the wet cells terminals were greased first, then abraded with a file, This meant that the terminal remained un-oxidised before assembly because the air was excluded. When bolted up, the 'roughened' faces of the terminal mated cleanly and the grease was effectively squeezed out. They never then suffered from any corrosion. This was most important on any aluminium terminals/busbars, where the slightest corrosion guaranteed a volt drop and potential problems. The whole terminal was then re-greased (but never to excess) in case handling may have removed any.

 

It is a practice that I have continued with our cars and with our boat.

[kevinw]

I supose a voltage drop is a potential problem?? There is a company called Frosts www.frost.co.uk who sell an aerosol of stuff to spray over terminalts to protect them. It also has litmus or similar in it and turns red if you are unlucky enough to have a crack around the terminal posts (for example, if someone has used a hammer to fit the terminals). Mainly intended for cars and lorries, but I;ve used it on my boat batteries to good effect as well.

 

Kevin

[Gibbo]

This question crops up quite often. Lots of cr*p is talked about it.

 

The idea that it might insulate the terminal is completely wrong (unless you use something ridiculously thick and gloopy). It gets totally squeezed out and only remains where there are air gaps and there would be no contact anyway.

 

The temperature rating of whatever is used is (or rather should be) immaterial. (within reason). If the battery terminal reaches a temperature sufficient to melt normal temperature grease or petroleum jelly then the runny stuff you've just put on is the least of your problems. Your enormous power losses and boiling battery are much more serious.

 

Normal grease is really too thick. Thin grease is fine. Petroleum jelly is fine. The proprietory terminal lubes are fine.

[DHutch]

Yeah, i'd go along with most of that.

- Makes sure there clean, abraded with some emerypaper if not, thin smear of almost anything a bt greasy or Gilli, do it good and tight.

- The grease is basically only there to protect what hadnt got the clamp in it, isnt essential, and its really going to remain between the too.

 

 

Daniel

[Nickhlx]

On the bike, and pretty much everything that can corrode outside, I use a product for preventing corrosion (that is also specifically recommended for electrical connections) called ACF-50. It comes in a large £12 aerosol, or is approx £25 per litre. They also do a kit of a litre with a small air pump bottle to mist it into areas you can't easily reach into, like behind the rear of bike engines. Apparently safe on all plastics and metals, high creep factor, recommended on electrical connections and active for up to a year. It claims to bond with road salt ( main reason I use it) and render it inactive. It originates from the USA and I believe their Army use it extensively. In our two-wheeled world, it is one of the best anti-corrosion products ever to come onto the market... and I use it on the boat ( and the batteries)

 

Nick

 

:-)

Edited March 26, 2010 by Nickhlx

[Gonads]

I'll be fitting my new batteries next week (under cruiser stern deck). I normally just smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to keep water/condensation at bay but a couple months ago when the RAC replaced my car battery they sprayed the terminals (after connection) with some magic "stuff" which was highly recommended.

I've searched around and there are several spray products on the market. So I just wondered what you guys use (if anything).

Weeble

 

 

I've used 'Waxoyl' on the terminals of classic car batteries for years to good effect and had no problems.

[bag 'o' bones]

Petroleum jelly. Used it for years without any ill effects.

 

Anyone who buys a 'specific' product for the job - with its highly inflated price tag I imagine - needs there head looking at.

[alan_fincher]

Why wouldn't you use petroleum jelly ?

 

Been doing the job very adequately for years ?

 

Are the alternatives cheaper, if not why would you use owt else ?

[RLWP]

I use stern tube grease. I have a tin on the boat and it does the job. I could have used petroleum jelly, and do on cars, but I haven't got any on the boat.

 

Richard

 

Do use something.

[deletedaccount]

does this mean I should be greasing up my terminals then?

 

Never heard of it before.

[weeble]

Thanks to all for your comments.

 

Why wouldn't you use petroleum jelly ?

 

Been doing the job very adequately for years ?

 

Are the alternatives cheaper, if not why would you use owt else ?

 

Alan, I agree that Petroleum Jelly has worked fine for me for many years (boat and cars). The main advantage of the stuff that the RAC man used was that it dried almost like an aluminium paint and was totally dry, and much cleaner to handle at a later time compared with a grease-based substance.

The cost of some of the "sprays" on offer is rather expensive considering I only have 8 terminals to treat. On balance I'll probably stick with what I know, especially as I'm fitting sealed batteries and don't envisage grubbing around a great deal.

[PaulD]

I'll be fitting my new batteries next week (under cruiser stern deck). I normally just smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to keep water/condensation at bay but a couple months ago when the RAC replaced my car battery they sprayed the terminals (after connection) with some magic "stuff" which was highly recommended.

I've searched around and there are several spray products on the market. So I just wondered what you guys use (if anything).

Weeble

 

Vehicle Wiring Products, Ilkeston sell Durite Anti-corrode compound at £2.95.

 

Just used it and have to say it looks like the Vaseline that I normally use. Will give you a comparison later in the year.

 

Paul

[Gonads]

I use stern tube grease. I have a tin on the boat and it does the job. I could have used petroleum jelly, and do on cars, but I haven't got any on the boat.

 

Richard

 

Do use something.

 

 

I seem to remember from college days that the use of grease (not coppa slip type) was to be avoided as the passage of electricity turns the grease acidic. I think a major car manufacturer had to reposition an earth return on one model because the earth return path was via the gearbox and it was turning the gearbox oil acidic.

 

cheers

[OldGoldy]

........ the passage of electricity turns the grease acidic. ........................ had to reposition an earth return on one model because the earth return path was via the gearbox and it was turning the gearbox oil acidic.

No, no, surely not?

 

Oil is also used in transformers, coils where electrickery exists in plenty.

 

It's not April 1st yet is it?

[RLWP]

I seem to remember from college days that the use of grease (not coppa slip type) was to be avoided as the passage of electricity turns the grease acidic. I think a major car manufacturer had to reposition an earth return on one model because the earth return path was via the gearbox and it was turning the gearbox oil acidic.

 

cheers

 

No signs of any problems on the boat yet after six years, but perhaps it takes longer than that.

 

Richard

 

For that matter, no problems on the earth strap on my car after fifteen years either...

[Gibbo]

Conservation of energy...

 

If putting electricity into oil turns it into acid then surely all we have to do is start with acid and turn it into free electricity and oil. The end of the world's energy problems!

 

Where on earth did you hear that?

 

You're 2 days early.

[Arnot]

I'll be fitting my new batteries next week (under cruiser stern deck). I normally just smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to keep water/condensation at bay but a couple months ago when the RAC replaced my car battery they sprayed the terminals (after connection) with some magic "stuff" which was highly recommended.

I've searched around and there are several spray products on the market. So I just wondered what you guys use (if anything).

Weeble

I dip the terminals in melted vaseline and then lift them out for most of it to drip off, this allows it to permeate all the fasteners. It seems to work for me...

 

I have to say that it is my impression that the magic sprays tend not to get into the places where the corrosion starts. I think that they are mainly for cosmetic purposes so that car owners can see that along with the box on the service sheet being ticked something has been done regardless of how effective it is

 

Regards

 

Arnot

[Nickhlx]

I dip the terminals in melted vaseline and then lift them out for most of it to drip off, this allows it to permeate all the fasteners. It seems to work for me...

 

I have to say that it is my impression that the magic sprays tend not to get into the places where the corrosion starts. Could it be ACF-50 ? - It does have a high creep factor and recommended for electrical connectors and is for anti-corrosion... I think that they are mainly for cosmetic purposes so that car owners can see that along with the box on the service sheet being ticked something has been done regardless of how effective it is

 

Regards

 

Arnot

 

 

Nick

[Gonads]

No, no, surely not?

 

Oil is also used in transformers, coils where electrickery exists in plenty.

 

It's not April 1st yet is it?

 

 

Quite true, but I would suspect that the oil in transformers has a different base to some greases. I seem to recollect that it was Rover's P6 that had the problem.