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paulcatchpole Rising Star

paulcatchpole

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Sip T130p, 0.8mm wire and Argoshield on car bodywork.

 

Richard

 

Does it suffer from any of the 'typical' SIP problems, as in:

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sip-wirefeed.htm

 

If so, it's not going to make life easier for you! :lol:

 

Argoshield makes for a wider acceptable range of power/feed combinations, but is the .8mm wire thicker than the steel you're welding? Might be easier with some .6 on it?

 

Or learn by finding some 2mm scrap and winding the power up, with the .8?

 

The forums on the above site are well useful too... :lol:

 

PC

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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Does it suffer from any of the 'typical' SIP problems, as in:

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sip-wirefeed.htm

 

If so, it's not going to make life easier for you! :lol:

 

Argoshield makes for a wider acceptable range of power/feed combinations, but is the .8mm wire thicker than the steel you're welding? Might be easier with some .6 on it?

 

Or learn by finding some 2mm scrap and winding the power up, with the .8?

 

The forums on the above site are well useful too... :lol:

 

PC

 

Hey these are Brit cars I'm welding, not Renault 4's!

 

I make repairs up in 18swg which is slightly thicker than the existing material.

 

I'll have a read about the wire feed but I don't think that is the problem. Most of the trouble is because I'm into a totally new cleaning regime for the existing metal than with gas. Grinding the surface back to bare metal seems a really bad thing to have to do just to weld it.

 

Richard

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gazza Veteran

gazza

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Hey these are Brit cars I'm welding, not Renault 4's!

 

I make repairs up in 18swg which is slightly thicker than the existing material.

 

I'll have a read about the wire feed but I don't think that is the problem. Most of the trouble is because I'm into a totally new cleaning regime for the existing metal than with gas. Grinding the surface back to bare metal seems a really bad thing to have to do just to weld it.

 

Richard

 

the torch liners can suffer badly from build up rust and crap. a blow out with a compressed air line works wonders.

 

 

for joint prep try using a wire wheel on either a grinder or drill. fibre discs and flap discs are less aggressive than a grinding disc too.

 

i have spent far too much time nailing fords and vauxhalls together. never had a stout enough heart for austin leyland stuff. any minis or metros got sent away with a ridiculously high repair quote :lol:

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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the torch liners can suffer badly from build up rust and crap. a blow out with a compressed air line works wonders.

 

 

for joint prep try using a wire wheel on either a grinder or drill. fibre discs and flap discs are less aggressive than a grinding disc too.

 

i have spent far too much time nailing fords and vauxhalls together. never had a stout enough heart for austin leyland stuff. any minis or metros got sent away with a ridiculously high repair quote :lol:

 

Coward. You just have to cut back far enough. And take a note of what the missing pieces looked like before you cut them off...

 

To be honest, first choice is spot weld. If I can't get the arms in then it's onto the mig.

 

The wire feed mods on that site look good. I may have a bit of a play.

 

Richard

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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i recently added a seperate wire feed power supply to a sip 170 mig, it made a massive difference, much easier to use and more consistent results. the brace across the wire feed rollers is well worth doing as well

 

Thanks Tom. That's what I concluded from the other forum. Which power supply mod did you do?

 

Richard

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tom_c Collaborator

tom_c

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i used a completely seperate transformer and speed controller, the power supply came from a large server computer, the speed controller was a modified homemade feedback controller for a model railway, i just binned the sip circuit board and used a couple of heavy duty relays to control the gas solenoid, being seperate you can feed wire without wasting gas and vice versa by switching either the wire feed or the machine off, looking back i would have spent a bit more and gone for a decent welder but i was a student when i bought it and only really needed it for welding a morris 1000, i'll try to find some photos of it, the new wire feed power supply also takes up all the space where the wire used to live, i fabricated a bracket to take a 5kg reel on the back of the machine, never got round to tidying it up, a kelvin and a kromhout got in the way!

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soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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Posted (edited)

Yesterday the stern was loaded onto the trailer

 

29-10-09_1039.jpg

 

Today both sections are 80 miles away tucked in the hedge at the boatyard waiting to take the place of the other boat in the picture. So close to the water now only 30 yards to the left. The other boat will be going in the water in four weeks time so things are going to slow on the shell but I will be working on the engine at home and will post some pictures soon.

 

29-10-09_1450.jpg

Edited by soldthehouse
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soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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Next part of the project that I can be getting on with while waiting for a clear space at the boatyard. The engine is a four cylinder Petter B4 previously fitted to a 70 footer and should handle the rivers with ease. Needs a quick inspection of the bores just to make sure then the magic wand of the polishing fairy, well I might as well do it once because i,m not renouned for polishing things

 

30-10-09_1534.jpg

 

30-10-09_1535.jpg

 

30-10-09_1533.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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Next part of the project that I can be getting on with while waiting for a clear space at the boatyard. The engine is a four cylinder Petter B4 previously fitted to a 70 footer and should handle the rivers with ease. Needs a quick inspection of the bores just to make sure then the magic wand of the polishing fairy, well I might as well do it once because i,m not renouned for polishing things

 

30-10-09_1534.jpg

 

30-10-09_1535.jpg

 

30-10-09_1533.jpg

Found a gearbox at last ,its a Newage B type 2to1 reduction what do the technical folk think about its suitability for the Petter B4 :lol:

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soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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How will you mount gearbox on engine. On ours we found lining up a bit tricky so instead we put a short 4wd prop shaft from engine to gearbox, works well but does take up some extra space.

Thats an option but I will try and cobble them together first, probably end up with some vibes, be hey, dig that crazy beat man.What do you think about the compatibility of the two units casp...

 

Ps is that you in a you tube vid starting an engine in the doorway of a garage if not you hava a clone

Edited by soldthehouse
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casper ghost Influencer

casper ghost

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Ps is that you in a you tube vid starting an engine in the doorway of a garage if not you hava a clone

 

It'll be me :lol: . Infamous at last...

 

We fitted a prm 100 to the Hr2 and fitting a prm 140 to the Ruston. They're both older versions of the prm 260. I'm not sure about the prm you state, no expert on prm. To get a resonse on here i'd start a new thread titled something like, which gearbox for such and such engine. Worked when I did it.

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soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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It'll be me :lol: . Infamous at last...

 

We fitted a prm 100 to the Hr2 and fitting a prm 140 to the Ruston. They're both older versions of the prm 260. I'm not sure about the prm you state, no expert on prm. To get a resonse on here i'd start a new thread titled something like, which gearbox for such and such engine. Worked when I did it.

Its an old mechanical box not a modern prm crossed wires somewhere.

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  • 3 weeks later...
soldthehouse Influencer

soldthehouse

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Has the cold stopped all progress or are you getting on with this build..

Yes a combination of weather, circumstance and respect for the guy at the boatyard who lost his wife this time last year. I need to move into his working area of the yard and didnt want to bother him over the festivities. Soon as the weather lifts and depending on Vals scan i will make a move... :lol:

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Biggles Veteran

Biggles

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I use flexible sanding type discs, in the angle grinder, for weld dressing & general tidying. I won't be grinding all welds tho', certainly nothing below the top guard iron.

 

I also make my own rotary wire brushes, to fit my 9" grinder.......make them out of bench grinder brushes.......not for the faint hearted.

 

Use filler by all means, but my shell has been declared a filler free zone........weldsmiley.gif

 

 

It is my firm intention to use as little filler as possible, but fear it will be inevitable at some point. :lol:

 

Biggles

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